Multi pitch routes at Smith Rock

[paramagic]

Any favorites to recommend?

[sprocket]

Haven't done too many but the ones I have were fun.

 

Zebra to Zion 4p

Seconed pitch has one hard move, really fun climb.

 

Cinnamon Slab 2p

Fun and easy.

 

Cinnamon Toast to Cry Babies 2p

All bolts, easy and some good exposure.

 

Pack Animal Direct 2p

Great stemming first pitch, hand crack pulling bulges on the second.

 

Super Slab 3p

Another fun easy one.

 

Spiderman 3p

Another classic moderate.

 

There are lots more that I haven't done. Moscow & Peking are supposed to be fun. Always wanted to try Wherever I May Roam a 5p bolted route.

[Drederek]

Did Gumby/Zebra/Zion about 20 years ago, last pitch was spectacular. One of the all-time greatest belay spots sitting in the lions chair with all the madness far below you.

[DPS]

All of the ones that have been mentioned are great. I would add the Pioneer Face of Monkey Face as having one of the most spectacular postions in all of cragdom. The aiding is easy, there is a bolt ladder do don't let that deter you. In fact Gene Pires said he saw some Euro dudes French freeing the section with ice axe leashes attaches to carabiners.

Edited September 24, 2010 by danielpatricksmith

[kevino]

Moscow is good. The last pitch is the best. Whereever I may roam is pretty good. The top out is fun. There are losts of variations for the first couple pitches.

 

Skyridge and white satin look interesting as well.

[billcoe]

All good. Some others to look at: West Face Variation on the Monkey, anything else on the Monkey , Trezlar, Chimney De Chelly and the route to the left of it, Round River, Peking, Free Lunch, First Kiss, the other route dude did left of Asterisks pass on the back side, and Sky Ridge.

 

Opps, Kevino got Sky Ridge and he's right, White Satin is real sweet, plus there's an optional 10b that's as sweet of a bolted line you'll see in the middle if you want to pass on the crack. You can still access the awesome last crack to top out.

 

 

Edited September 24, 2010 by billcoe

[counterfeitfake]

Tale of Two Shitties has one good pitch...

 

Wherever I May Roam is many pitches of decent climbing, and all bolted too.

 

Crack of Infinity is a couple good pitches.

 

Honestly I realized recently that I have almost climbed all the well-traveled Smith trad and multipitch routes that I am capable of climbing.

 

I hear that the second pitch of Wartley's Revenge is pretty good...

[powderhound]

voyage of the cow dog

 

the 2nd pitch is one of my favorite at smith. one of a kind, in an incredible setting. almost 360 views of the entire area.

[denalidave]

 

Wherever I May Roam is many pitches of decent climbing, and all bolted too.

This one is worth doing more than once, at least for me...

[111]

voyage of the cow dog

 

the 2nd pitch is one of my favorite at smith. one of a kind, in an incredible setting. almost 360 views of the entire area.

 

the upper pitch is GREAT, the lower pitch is junk IMHO.

 

Also try the .10b/c multipitch left of White satin (its in the new watts guide) we just did that recently and greatly loved the exposure. It is basically Screaming Yellow Zonkers type nubbins but 3 ropelengths up.

[backclipped]

All great recommendations for main area climbing--First Kiss wasn't mentioned and is worth the extra five minute romp passed the start of West Face variation. Spiderman is a classic. A quick word about Monkey Face: if you think you're a 5.11 climber because you've been up Hersey a few dozen times, expect to aid your way out of the west cave if you pass on the bolt ladder and free Monkey Space......I've been that guy.

 

The Marsupial have some worthwhile jaunts:

Thin Air.

Birds in a Rut.

Santiam Highway Ledges.

Cave Route.

Marsupial Traverse.

[backclipped]

First Kiss was mentioned by Billcoe. The last pitch is the money pitch.

 

Anyone been on the 5.9 dihedral on Snibble?

[kevbone]

Zebra to Zion is the best multi in the park for its grade IMO. I try to get on it every time I go to Smith.

[kevbone]

 

Anyone been on the 5.9 dihedral on Snibble?

 

 

BeaconBen has.

[selkirk]

I'll, add another vote or Zebra-Zion. One of the best climbs i've ever done anywhere. The exposure and climbing on the last pitch is incredible

 

Overhanging jugs 400 ft off the ground with good pro make me

[Jens]

Monkey space "spacemonkey"

[Off_White]

Last time I was at Spiderman some Canadians did it as a single pitch. I can't recall if they were using a 70m rope, but it would be a great long single pitch.

[wimsey]

Last time I was at Spiderman some Canadians did it as a single pitch. I can't recall if they were using a 70m rope, but it would be a great long single pitch.

 

You don't need a 70m. I used to do it that way back in the 50m days.

[kevbone]

Last time I was at Spiderman some Canadians did it as a single pitch. I can't recall if they were using a 70m rope, but it would be a great long single pitch.

 

You don't need a 70m. I used to do it that way back in the 50m days.

 

Not without similclimbing. I simuled it with a 60 a couple of years ago. The leader was at the roof on the third pitch when I left the ground.

[G-spotter]

Marsupial Traverse is basically scrambling but a fun way to do 8 pitches while it's snowing.

[Lucky Larry]

all the above. Skyridge has a spicy run out start; do the second pitch traverse as it is easy and the exposure is not to be missed.

[ivan]

x2 for birds in a rut - long walk out to the marsupials but you'll have no crowd and a sweeeeet view back of the entire park, plus the top pitch is way cool, neon-green lichen n' solid moderate crack climbing - 5 pitches i think, but most are pretty short

[corvallisclimb]

bunny face

[scm007]

Wherever I May Roam (5 pitches up to 5.9) is super fun. It's not difficult or technical, just fun.

 

The Monkey Face is worth doing once just to say you did it. The West Face Variation is probably the best bet unless you climb super hard and want to tackle one of the 11's up it.

[paramagic]

Thanks for the great recommendations!