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Everything posted by corvallisclimb

  1. Oregon Bolt Replacement

    Oregons rock climbing routes sport many old rusty bolts in need of replacement. With a generous a donation from ASCA I was given many a bolts do do some replacement work. I figured I would start a thread to let people know whats been replaced, and for people to shout out what they think should be replaced. Most bolts at smith are realaced with 1/2x3.75 or 1/2x3.25 RAWL 5 peice. In the menagerie or areas where hand drilled, I use 3/8x2.25 RAWL 5 peice. All with Fixe hangers, some with rap rings where needed. Post up or PM me if you want to help out and go climb some stuff! Smith Rock State Park: Monkey Face - East Face 2 anchor bolts atop P2 w/ Jim Anglin 2/10/07 Picnic Lunch Wall - Original Picnic Lunch Wall aid route: 2 anchor bolts below the roof on p4 w/ Jim Anglin & Cody Peterson Jan 07 Mesa Verde Wall - Palo Verde: 4 anchor bolts on top of the 4th class ledge Jan 07 Staender Ridge - Bettes Needle: 4 rap anchors w/ Cathrine Power Oct 06 Staender Ridge - The Dinosuar: 2 anchor bolts w/ Jake Hector Oct 06 Menagere Wilderness: Panorama Point - Essential Reality: 4 lead bolts on P1 w/ Jim Anglin Nov 06 North Rabbit Ear - Dod Route: Most lead and anchor bolts done by KB 2006 South Rabbit Ear - Bauman Route: Most lead and all anchor bolts done by KB 2006 Turkey Monster - Dod Route: 1 belay bolt atop P2 w/ Nick Dolceck Apr 05 Wolf Rock: Barad-Dur: Many lead and anchor bolts done by CF & JR Fall '06 Note: Not all of these where replaced with ASCA hardware some where done with personal bolts.
  2. Oregon Pinnacles

    I think Oregon has some of the coolest rock climbing anywhere. Mostly due to the fact of the vast amount or rock pinnacles. Theres tons of them, close to 150 in the Menagerie area alone. So heres a thread for the pinnacles/spires/summits of Oregon. Post your pictures, stories, favorite summits, anything! No spray please! I just want to see some solid content in this thread. I'll kick it off with a small one, and we can grow from there. This is a rad little spire, well worth the hike to bag the summits in the area. Index Finger (5.6), Mendenhall Ridge, Smith Rock
  3. Onion Peak (coast range)

    I found this cool looking crag over on summitpost the rock looks pretty good in one of the pictures, but its a hell of an approach. Being sort of close to Portland I think, has any one ever been out there before?
  4. Climb: Urban Aid - Corvallis, OR -Log Jam Date of Climb: 11/15/2004 Trip Report: So today skyclimb and I hooked up for some urban aid in the rain. Found ourselves under a bridge pouding in to this little seam. It was his first time fuckkin around with aid shit so he got a little clusterfucked but non the less Nick spotted a natural line and went for it. calling it Log Jam, grad I A3 20ft, he risked certain ground fall into some seriouse shit so he gave it the A3 rating. Gear Notes: pins, and other goodies Approach Notes: looooong grade 5 approach
  5. [TR] El Capitan- Salathe 6/5/2005

    Climb: El Capitan-Salathe Date of Climb: 6/5/2005 Trip Report: I helped my friend Steve Schneider do a free ascent of the Salathe. We spent two nights on the wall, we had planned to spend three nights but we got caught up with cragging and such. Steve onsighted every pitch untill the two 13 pitches on the headwall wich he speed/aid climbed through due to fading light and need to get off the wall. All in all a great time was had by the both of us. Perfect weather in the valley for my time spent there, and I didnt get tooled by any rangers. here are some pictures: Gear Notes: clean wall rack Approach Notes: short as hell
  6. Climb: Menagerie- Date of Climb: 3/11/2005 Trip Report:
  7. Climb: patagonia-photos Date of Climb: 12/17/2005 Trip Report: I arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile to work as in Torres Del Paine National Park, as I had done the year before. Things all went as planned except for a broken foot, broken rib, drunken nights in whore houses, and a forest fire... I worked and was able to have time off to take some good trips to Argentine Patagonia. Untill there was a fire in the national park, wich thus became closed and I was out of work, for the meantime. I didnt want to sit around and waste my money drinking and buying food so I came home early. I took some pictures a long the way, thought I wish I had taken my camera a lot more, here they are... first i kicked my first day off cragging on the shitty sandstone close to town, not knowing i'd break a foot, but that wasnt to be the only break on the trip. in this photo is restovich leadin up this crack with a rotten bolt at the top. this is elsa she broke here finger when top roping that same route and a 60lb block broke off carlitos on a shitty 3 pitch sport climb restovich belaying sat around for almost two weeks, worked a trip then went to argentina to try and climb a route on media de luna behind el mocho, 9 days at base camp no weather luck, so i had to go back to work, these pictures are from this trip small break in weather on the second day bouldering close to base camp heather baer, fredrico pizani, steve schnider and dean potter discuss the weather base camp fun dean potters revenge against the huber brothers from one attempt on the route alex huber on the dead cow boulder close to the town bean bowers on the dead cow boulder steve and his wife went back to work a while again took one picture, this is of el cuerno pricipal in paine with two people i worked with went back to chalten argentina, to just crag around for a few days. the weather would have been amazing for anything on fitz roy or cerro torre. wich there was much success on. we climbed what we belived to be a new route outside of chalten and cliped some bolts. daniel on the 1st pitch of our route 5.7 us on the belay ledge martin clippen up a 6b perfect weather on the drive in then a tourist started a fire in the national park wich was then closed for 6 days wich resulted in a cancelation of two groups of mine. running low on money i decided to come home early. i have some pictures of the fire i can post when i scan them. Gear Notes: all sorts Approach Notes: all sorts
  8. beatard appreciation thread

    wouldn't you have to actually climb here a couple times first before you could manage so machiavellian an agenda? Yeah that's what I thought! I did about four years ago do Wrong Gull, SE Corner, Jill's Thrill, Young Warriors and P1 of Dodd's so I guess that is when I decided this place must be CLOSED!!!!
  9. beatard appreciation thread

    Oh and as was pointed out by Mr. Markett in the other thread, it appears that I personally fucked you Beacon climbers... So now I would like to personally apologize for doing this. As it sounds, according to Mr. Markett I did something to make the closure permanent at Beacon, so again my apologies!!!! :wave: I did it all for the birds!!!!!!!!!
  10. beatard appreciation thread

    Come on Bill gotta cheaply whore your self out a little more!!!
  11. Oregon crags from above...

    I made another video of flying around and looking at some crags in the Cascades. Some of the footage I posted before but some is new. Thought some people might enjoy... [video:youtube]K5AOb_TFez0 You can see the a nice little view of the Turkey Monster at the bottom center of the screen @ 1:27
  12. Skinner's Butte Closure/Condition Report

    Jeeze looks like they where really going at it! The city of Eugene contacted some good friends of mine to do an assessment of the area. They looked at it and told them what they thought as far as a pertinent closure, but that is as far as its gotten now with them. I'll try to post an update when I hear something more.
  13. Oregon Pinnacles

    Pete Guagliardo follows the first pitch on the South Rabbit Ear, while Brian Gilbert & Greg Orton rack up at the base. October 2011. Photo: Chris Winter Esq.
  14. Moolack?

    I finally went and climbed at Moolack with MTep. The place is really very cool, but the routes get kinda dirty. A short 5 minute uphill stroll brings one to the base. The rock is super solid and the cracks protect really well. Surely different the most of the cascade crags in Oregon. Mainly I'm posting this in hopes it will encourage others to go and check the place out and climb and keep the routes nice and clean. With a little more traffic this place would be a gem. If you like crack climbing then make this place a must visit!
  15. Coethedral Anyone?

    Hey Plaidman, I flew over the Coethedral area today, the snow level was lookin pretty low so I'd bet you'll be able to drive all the way there. But don't hold me to it since I didn't know the exact roads to look at n stuff. Have fun! I can post a video of flying around there but not sure it will be too much help.
  16. Tieton rock climbng question?

    Can any one tell me what the formation in the picture below is? Is that the Goose Egg or whatever? Never been up there but looks like a killer destination for some fly-in climbing...
  17. Tieton rock climbng question?

    So did you camp at the CG on the side of the airstrip in the picture? I saw your pictures on FB which was kinda what got me thinking then I put it all together. So what would the access be like walking from the airstrip in the photo? Obviously looks like Goose Egg would be a piece of cake to walk to but is Kloochman or any of that cragging close by? Looks cool enough I just ordered the guide book so I assume that can answer any question.
  18. Tieton rock climbng question?

    Once I have a Super Cub or Maule on skis, I will report back!!!
  19. Tieton rock climbng question?

    STOKE!!!!!!!! :rawk: :rocken:
  20. Yosemite June-July

    Good question! I did just have hernia surgery a couple days ago, so I'm one step closer! Hell, maybe I'll try do a wall again this Fall or something... Though kinda more enchanted with Fisher Towers stuff than The Ditch right now... keeping finger crossed antibiotics will kill disease!!!! Now back to Ivan's partner search....
  21. Yosemite June-July

    wait wait wait... last time I checked the Trip was on El Cap. IMO I'd consider that way more of a route than The Nose! Someone said, once you've done one, you've basically done them all... But yeah I bet you would be a lot more prone to find a partner more willing to head up to Canada than head into an oven. Either way you go a month off will be hard to beat! Though you could still go to the East Coast with the wife and kids
  22. Yosemite June-July

    Why not try something new and not risk dying of heat exhaustion and trying to avoid the man? You done made it up half the walls in Yosemite already! Squamish has TONS of rad lookin aid routes, as does the Diamond, Buggaboos or any of those more summerish destinations, maybe Black Canyon? Mt Hooker looks rad but is like 20 miles back and probably hard! Go do Dolomite Tower on Barring!
  23. Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park Info?

    Lots of obscure hard sounding big walls! You moving soon or what?
  24. Oregon Pinnacles

    Nah the Roo aint that bad... Some really loose and rotten rock but with the help of BShmitz we replaced the bolts last year. A 20ft 5.7 solo leads into amphitheater on the north side and scramble to belay bolt in the Roo/Joey notch. Then Chimney up the the first bolt and traverse past 3 or 4 more bolts (5.7) and a crappy fixed pin to an anchor on a slab. An easy 5.3 pitch leads to the summit. I think there is a sling on top, sometimes there hasn't been tho, so if not just down climb to the anchor and rappel. 1 rope puts you back in the the alcove, 2 puts you on the ground. I think if you had a 70 you'd get all the way to the ground with one. A fun big old school tower. It's a shame that 99% of the rock on that tower is crap because if not it would be home to lots of cool routes... Oh well! BSchmitz on belay duty in the notch. Enjoying a nice lunch out in da Marsupials I've aided a couple cool steep and thin cracks on the south face of the Roo, to provide access establish some hard sport routes with a friend. If your desperate for something to nail I could give ya the beta... You'd want prolly 20+ beaks though. Beaking the Roo Wilbur lookin for free potential. Hmmm is this thing big enough to keep me off the deck?!?!
  25. Oregon Pinnacles

    Needle Rock