5.15

[tvashtarkatena]

Nobody really gives a shit about the Bobsy Twin's former climbing style. What gets a predictable rise is the Anemic Duo's proscribing their particularly brand of anal retention for all climbers under the heady title of 'ethics'.

 

Typical blow hard behavior. 'Lemme tell ya this, lemme tell ya that, lemme tell about the time I....'.

 

Fucking tiresome.

[Raindawg]

Nobody really gives a shit about the Bobsy Twin's former climbing style. What gets a predictable rise is the Anemic Duo's proscribing their particularly brand of anal retention for all climbers under the heady title of 'ethics'.

 

You must "give a sh*t", or think we have extraordinary influence, because you continue to read our posts and comment on the subject.

 

F*&king tiresome.

 

11639 tiresome posts....now that's tiresome.

 

[RuMR]

blah blah blah

 

 

[JosephH]

Nobody really gives a shit about the Bobsy Twin's former climbing style.

True that. The systemic homogymization is complete and climbing, bolted and gear, is now officially a matter of hanging on ropes incrementally working lines ad nausem until clean sends can be done. Cool, I get it. But it then shouldn't be a mystery why there is such a big spread in everyone's sport and trad ratings. All good, but probably best to avoid situations anywhere near your limit where you'll be run out on unknown and difficult technical terrain and can't hang to sort things out. Mais alors, la grande majorité d'entre vous ne le sera jamais - c'est la vie dans les banlieues.

[Raindawg]

blah blah blah

 

 

 

10994!

[ivan]

blah blah blah

 

 

hey, use yer emoticons - it's why they're there!

[Kimmo]

i actually care about their climbing style, and actually have enjoyed said style, and continue to enjoy said style.

 

the difference is i'm not a religious zealot about it, blabbing incessantly as if it's the most important topic regarding climbing.

 

damn, i'd like to hear about a climbing trip the old dudes went on recently, instead of wallowing in the past and in their "ethics".

[pope]

POPE I WANNA HAVE YOUR BABIES.

 

Take a number, honey.

[pope]

btw i remember you saying (on this bb) you did ROTS on-sight, but it turns out you were just (as usual)talking out of your ass.

 

So, you're a foul-mouth and a liar. I challenge you to find that statement.

[pope]

I hope you pulled the rope and left your cam behind for climbers who deserved to be up there.

 

No. They cost too much, and I had people waiting on me who were in no position to finish the climb. And they were cold. I hung on a nut, threw down my sweater and finished. With "1 PA" is the way I wrote it in my notes. The 2nd on the rope, who is now a big advocate of sport climbing and who has a mouth even larger than yours, followed the pitch with tension for nearly every move.

 

I only went back to the climb to see if my Vertical World membership was providing dividends.

BOOO BOOO BOOO U SUCK BOOO BOOO BOOO GO HOME POSER BOOO BOOO...

 

musta sucked being all cold while dripping sweat from the heat, eh?

 

 

Belayer was cold, I wasn't. I couldn't wiggle up that slot with three layers.

[pope]

I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

If bolts were only found at Exit 38, I suppose I'd be OK with that. What I see in Leavenworth makes me sad. Truly. When I started climbing about the only bolts you saw in the Icicle were found on ground-up clasics like Timson's Face. How things have changed.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time. and yes, the time have changed- people warm up on 11's. so you were and still are weak, pathetic wanker

BAWHAHAHAHAHAHHA ....

 

remember bob, he flashed equinox on a top rope!

 

With Jason Mikos. Ask him.

[j_b]

We all climb for the way it makes us feel, but Pope and Raindawg's ethics seem way too rigid to be enjoyable.

 

So don't adhere to it! No one's forcing anyone to not hangdog/siege climb. We're presenting another perspective which is apparently some sort of crime on a climbing "discussion" site. If we think you're a stylistically-weak WUSS, who cares???? The way some of these vulgar clowns act around here, they must be

a) foul-mouthed 13 years old,

and/or

b) think we have the power of the universe to take away their slacker version of fun!

Siege climb all you want, and pretend you're good to go, if that's what get's you all excited! Go get it, cowboy! Yee ha!

 

Make drilling bolts a casual and routine habit on public property, though, and then it does become an issue. Otherwise, WUSS AWAY!

 

 

"Back off, ground-up, trad-mongering low-impact substantiators! We's workin' on our 'project! Take!"

 

You either need remedial reading comprehension or you didn't read my post (there are other possibilities but none too flattering). Really, you didn't need to inflict the same old ramblings on your readers once again.

[Choada_Boy]

I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time.

 

Actually what happened is....there's a nice stance where the crack gets a little wide. I placed a nut and weighted it slightly so that I could strip off some clothing. There was no falling or dogging, but it my mind it didn't quite count.

 

Note to self: wear a extra layer of clothing when I need an excuse for failure.

[StevenSeagal]

Nobody really gives a shit about the Bobsy Twin's former climbing style.

True that. The systemic homogymization is complete and climbing, bolted and gear, is now officially a matter of hanging on ropes incrementally working lines ad nausem until clean sends can be done. Cool, I get it. But it then shouldn't be a mystery why there is such a big spread in everyone's sport and trad ratings. All good, but probably best to avoid situations anywhere near your limit where you'll be run out on unknown and difficult technical terrain and can't hang to sort things out. Mais alors, la grande majorité d'entre vous ne le sera jamais - c'est la vie dans les banlieues.

 

 

You were typing this one handed on your iPhone, hanging off a loose crimper 80' above a #2 RP, weren't you? You seem so calm. I'm impressed.

[StevenSeagal]

I hope you pulled the rope and left your cam behind for climbers who deserved to be up there.

 

No. They cost too much, and I had people waiting on me who were in no position to finish the climb. And they were cold. I hung on a nut, threw down my sweater and finished. With "1 PA" is the way I wrote it in my notes. The 2nd on the rope, who is now a big advocate of sport climbing and who has a mouth even larger than yours, followed the pitch with tension for nearly every move.

 

I only went back to the climb to see if my Vertical World membership was providing dividends.

BOOO BOOO BOOO U SUCK BOOO BOOO BOOO GO HOME POSER BOOO BOOO...

 

musta sucked being all cold while dripping sweat from the heat, eh?

 

 

Belayer was cold, I wasn't. I couldn't wiggle up that slot with three layers.

 

real climbers choose partners who don't get cold. And we used to always wear at least 4 layers on ROTC, even on hot days, because we wanted to ascend the slot by fair means.

[pope]

I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time.

 

Actually what happened is....there's a nice stance where the crack gets a little wide. I placed a nut and weighted it slightly so that I could strip off some clothing. There was no falling or dogging, but it my mind it didn't quite count.

 

Note to self: wear a extra layer of clothing when I need an excuse for failure.

 

We've all read your trip reports. We've come to expect it.

[Choada_Boy]

I almost flashed ROTC. I was in the little wide part, well above the crux, about 10 feet from home on a cold day when I realized I couldn't climb it with the sweater I had on. Plus I was out of gas. I waited about three years and although it seemed harder the second time, I was more determined than ever to get it and managed to nail it. Less than perfect style, my climb deserves a footnote.

 

wtf? what is almost flash? So you fell off, doged your way to the top (i assume you didn't lower leaving gear), went back and did it RP. so why are you dissing sportos, since you have done the exact same in the past? man, you are weak and tool at the same time.

 

Actually what happened is....there's a nice stance where the crack gets a little wide. I placed a nut and weighted it slightly so that I could strip off some clothing. There was no falling or dogging, but it my mind it didn't quite count.

 

Note to self: wear a extra layer of clothing when I need an excuse for failure.

 

We've all read your trip reports. We've come to expect it.

 

SLAM!! OH NO YOU DIDN'T!!!

 

Interesting thing, though, is that I actually try and get after it, old man, but these days my policy is not to spray to the Universe about it. I only post TRs about my ongoing relationship with attempting to solo Zero Gully in winter.

 

 

Meanwhile, eight thousand years ago...

 

 

Isn't that you soloing Brass Balls? It must be nice to have such laurels to rest upon.

[kevbone]

 

Note to self: wear a extra layer of clothing when I need an excuse for failure.

 

[tvashtarkatena]

I care so much.

[Off_White]

Now, I do believe ya'll are being much too harsh on Pope, for reasons that have nothing at all to do with the climbing story he told about ROTC.

 

For starters, that story, with details over several posts, is damned near the most serious climbing TR he's ever posted, and really, it's a fine tale.

 

He's embraced the soul of modern ethics as well. It matters most to yourself how you did the climb, it matters to everyone else that you tell the truth about what you did. I think he's done that admirably.

 

Not only that, but to me, it's a reasonably impressive feat, even with a partial weighting of one piece to doff some clothes. It's pretty damn near an onsight flash, which most everyone in any discipline of climbing acknowledges is the gold standard of performance. Hitting it first try on a second attempt years later, that's pretty sweet too, not a project that required a lot of attempts. If he was interested in "working a project" odds are he'd have broken in to 5.12 cracks. Maybe ROTC is no big deal to all you hardfellows, but it's a hard pitch in my book. Of course, I did confess my mediocrity awhile back in this thread...

 

Anyway, thanks for the story Pope, I enjoyed it.

[billcoe]

Now, I do believe ya'll are being much too harsh on Pope, for reasons that have nothing at all to do with the climbing story he told about ROTC.

I concur, you dudes are tossing the mud out pretty early, that usually means that you can't form a logical argument, so ya start in with the personal attacks to change tack and deflect your lack of facts.

 

Anyway, thanks for the story Pope, I enjoyed it.

Ditto. Thanks!

 

I have to add Pope, you and Don want to always show up and tell everyone else how to climb and enjoy this activity. However, this is how it comes off "WE'RE RIGHT AND YOU'RE WRONG". Naturally, when you tell others how they SHOULD be enjoying the sport, they get aggro in return and here we are!

 

I predict another 5 pages of vituperation. (not sure what that means but it seemed to fit)

 

Warm regards to all! ....and Off, you in particular rule dude, as always.

 

Bill

Edited January 13, 2010 by billcoe

[pope]

What? Bill and Offy are being civil? You know, every once in a while I find myself believing that you two may just be an RCH more dignified than most of the bottom-feeders on this site.

[j_b]

It matters most to yourself how you did the climb, it matters to everyone else that you tell the truth about what you did

 

Frankly, I don't give a damn about Pope's style on ROTC. It's a hard climb but far from standard setting and I don't see how it features in the grand scheme of posturing for who has the biggest dick. Not that I personally care about that either but it seems what these so-called ethics are about.

[kevbone]

What? Bill and Offy are being civil?

 

 

It only took 8 pages.

[denalidave]

Removing clothes to finish a climb is AID. OK, almost aid.