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Posted
who works out more than anyone on this site and is really just a mediocre climber?

 

i'll paint yer house for free if u can name the cc.cummer...... but you gotta drag me far above the treeline.

 

Why, Girth Pillarage, of course!

Posted
i've been doing some pullups recently, i think the last time i did any on any routine was back when i was a punkass teenager, my pullup ability has definetly diminished...

 

just wondering about how many the average core-climber can do.

 

So a graduate student at Western actually ran a thesis study on the physiology of elite rock climbers. I think part of her results actually demonstrated that pullup performance is a weak predictor for how hard somebody can climb on the 5 or V scales (although there did seem to be a threshold of pullup strength between subjects). Basically, all in all, yes you do need strength to climb well, but having great technique combined with strength above or equal to threshold is essential. If your technique is already killer great and you climb hard, improving gross muscle strength can only help.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
I recall a time when I could do 23 pullups without resting and couldn't get up Libra Crack at Index (a short .10a finger/hand crack)on top rope.

 

At age 10 my daughter could do laps on Libra Crack and couldn't do a single pull up. She had small hands which were the perfect size for the crack.

Posted

i lived with this couple in colorado for a couple months, they were bouldering freaks! the guy would monkey around in a tree all day with a chainsaw, then come home and do sets of 10-15 wieghted pull ups, one armers - with ciggy breaks in-between. mofo could send v-12,13 easily.

Posted

He must be related to John Gill.

 

And who was the chick who did the FA of a 5.11 on Bastille Wall in Eldorado but could only do one pullup.

 

Frenchies are a better skill for climbing.

 

And although I admire the shit out of him House was cheating a bit by not doing full extenstion at the bottom which is the bane of many pullup artists. If you don't drop full down and go to chin over the bar, it can definitely improve your performance.

 

It also helps to have narrow but powerful shoulders.

 

But I agree, this dude was impressive!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
nice, but strange: you've done 50 pull-ups before, but no one-arm? it seems people hit one arm level around 30 or so.

 

One-arms seem to really work the biceps, whereas regular pullups target the back more.

 

 

Posted

Muscle ups IMO are more about timing and coordination then raw strength/pulling power. With some practice you'll get it down and then its just another tool in the tool box to supplement your sport specific training... for what it is or isnt worth: # of pullups and ability to do a muscle up dont really correlate... I cant do a one arm pull up (you can Marc) but I can do 5 muscle ups on a bar without coming off.

 

Practicing and/or mastering a muscle up on a set of rings will make the bar one easier.

 

And be careful: I know a few people that developed some elbow issues from doing way too many muscle ups

Posted

muscle ups on the bar and rings are pretty different. While rings require much more technique the bar requires much more power. There was some thing on CF that mentioned how many pullups / dips you need before you should get a muscle up but that is mostly just guess work as everyone is different. A more explosive athlete might have an easier time w/ MUs but not be able to do as many pullups or dips as perhaps more of an endurance athlete.

Posted

Weak as I am right now I can do probably max 3 strict pullups, and 1 ring dip (1 in a row!!) but I can still do a barely kipped ring muscle-up. My muscle-up and ring-dip numbers have always been about the same. UW_C is right it is a technique thing on the rings, plus some shoulder flexibility. The necessary incremental strength over independent pullups and dips is minimal.

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