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fern

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Everything posted by fern

  1. gear recall Gear Recalls

    This is a thread for posting recall notices for shitty gear
  2. yard sale policy READ FIRST: Yard Sale Rules

    this forum is VOLUNTARILY moderated sporadically which means in the past eee bbb aaaa yyyy has snuck through due to omission and time constraints. But the rule has been in place and enforced for many years. And now will be automagically enforced by an automatic filter. The Eeee Bbbb Aaaa Yyyy restriction was one that came as a response to the request of MEMBERS of cc.com, not as an arbitrary administrative rule from the moderator group. If there is a community desire to rescind that rule then go ahead and make a case for it with a reasonable backing from the unwashed masses. All in all though I think the absence of ebay has been helpful in limiting Yard Sale postings from people who register an account solely to sell stuff and have no other interest in the forum - i.e. SPAMMERs
  3. BD heel piece discussion V2

    Yes, though not my crampons - a climbing partner's. This was a pair of pre-SS Cyborgs about 7 yrs ago. The plastic heel piece was deformed and the wire bail popped out of place inside the mechanism. I assessed it for my own purposes as a fundamental design weakness in that component. I chose to look at other models and brands that seemed to be a more robust design when it came time to replace my own crampons.
  4. Injury topics for video

    great idea!
  5. Hello ice climbing friends. I am in Lillooet. My partner left her climbing boots behind in Squamish. Is anyone heading through tonight or tomorrow early AM and could possibly pick them up and bring them up to here so we can go climbing rather than endure the drive of shame?
  6. Garibaldi Lake Frozen Yet?

    Snoboy and I did a trip in late December many many years in ago across the lake to Sentinel Bay. As little as 2" of ice in some places and no snow cover - just clear black ice. We swung wide around Mt. Price when probing showed ice getting uncomfortably thin along our preferred direct route. We approached Sentinal bay late in the day and found it unfrozen - but luckily the ice bridged across a ridge of talus just enough that we could get ashore. Spooky. My empirical conclusion was that at that time of year the thickest ice was to be found farthest from the shore, while skirting the shoreline was suspect. I think the opposite is true later in the season though as the ice overfloods.
  7. How much protein?

    count me #2 for ice baths making a noticeable and immediate difference in recovery (and hence subsequent performance) versus diet or supplements.
  8. Bugaboos- hut v camping poll

    http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/kain.html http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/rates.html Note day use fee.
  9. Bugaboos- hut v camping poll

    I think it is $10 Applebea, $25 Kain hut now. I have a vague memory that you can actually pay by credit card now too ... but might be totally wrong on that.
  10. The Grand Wall is closed above the top of the Sword pitch until July 31st (latest) Updates are at: http://www.access-society.ca/ 2 ropes recommended for rappelling from the open high point.
  11. Falcon closure updates are found at: http://www.access-society.ca/ 2 ropes recommended for rappelling from the open high point
  12. 1st time to squamish, need suggestions

    smoke bluff connection is the definition of ON the beaten path. squamish is popular, climbs get traffic. get up early or stay out late to get on the popular classics and you will probably have a more productive and fun time than wandering around looking for obscure bushy mossy stuff. It's daylight out for like 14hrs now, so lots of time to avoid crowds. ... or you could climb North North Arete and Green Thumb ...
  13. Avalanche discussion thread

    This is such a dangerously wrong statement that I cannot let it sit. The size of the tree next to you has ZERO relevance to whether or not the spot you are standing in is protected or exposed to slides either big or small. ZERO. The AGE of the tree may have some slight relevance but you do not know the age unless you directly determine it by counting rings. When you count rings you will also find reaction wood growth from years when the tree was pounded over but not snapped. In locations where large slides knock out the canopy, new trees can grow very big very fast. Unless you count the rings YOU DON'T KNOW. A "rule of thumb" for tree density above which snowpack stability might be assumed to be generally subcritical most of the time (note all the weasel words) is 10000 stems per hectare. The size of the stems is irrelevant. As someone noted, this works out to a tree density that is tight and tricky to ski through. These are not open glades. Second - the effects of forest on the stability of the snowpack in immediate proximity (tree bombs, wind suppression) are also only relevant if the start zone of the avalanche is in the trees (happens, but not the most common). A more typical situation is a start zone in an open alpine or sub-alpine area that feeds into a path and runout zone in the trees. Once the slide is running the local stability of the snow within the forest is irrelevant. Bigger slides may not begin to decelerate until the slope is less than 20deg or even shallower, even with big trees. Avalanche + Trees = Fatal Trauma. Don't fool yourself. Past luck /= good judgement. Hug-a-tree is for lost boy scouts in summer. Choose your safe travel zones based on terrain not trees. ref: course materials http://www.avalanche.ca/caa/training/introduction-snow-avalanche-mapping
  14. The new Petzl Lynx crampons?

    I think the price on these is crazzeee! But yet I bought myself a pair today at Au Vieux Campeur in gay Paree, 188 Euros. The tipping point for me was the dual option for front bails coupled with replaceable front points. Essentially for me it was a solution which otherwise would have required 2 pairs of crampons, PLUS longer term durability through replacement of worn parts. I can sell off a couple of pairs of used 'pons to offset the prix tres cher. I must say though, refering to a blog post of Dane's from a little while back - the quality of finishing on them looks pretty crude. Very jagged surfaces, and a few of the sizing holes on the bar are blocked by the paint finish.
  15. input on home wall

    I built mine with option 3. I built a large frame inside the walls of the room and hung the top of the wall from it, rather than propping it on posts. The frame is a snug fit to the walls and slightly shimmed out to protect paint etc., but it is not actually tied into any building structure because I couldn't find any studs behind the drywall. Being a snug fit it cannot wobble side to side. The bouldering wall itself is not as wide as the room, so there is space at one side to hang rings or hangboard from the same beam as holds the wall up. I don't think a kick board is necessary for a campus/system board since probably you aren't going all that steep? Most system boards I have seen are around 15-25deg. My bouldering wall is 40deg so I have a 2' kickboard but I wouldn't have bothered if the wall was any less steep and probably could have made the kickboard shorter except I needed the top of the wall to not extend so far as to block a window.
  16. Info on Slesse conditons.

    I heard 3rd hand that Colin Haley climbed it last weekend and the pocket glacier was nasty and mobile so they gained the buttress very very low and climbed 5 pitches of 4th class just to get to the normal start.
  17. help with bugaboo's info

    in addition to the camping costs you should bring some extra donation dollars to pay for the wag bags (available at the applebee campground).
  18. Lanjeager

    The best landjaeger deal in Metro-Van is from the International Sausage House on Gilmore at Lougheed (American tourons should exit at Willingdon and navigate westward). Buy a pack of 20 and you get a free double Kielbasa!! "Yoo vant gahrleek or NO?" You can also get these awesome thick-cut smoked porkchops, and free schmalz. Sadly no speck.
  19. Compact Calories

    The International Sausage House in Burnaby gives away free schmalz, and also you get a free kielbasa with every 25$ purchase(double). I havent found a local source for speck (smoked raw bacon fat) which is the best climbing calorie punch I ever ate, and favourite powah food of russian climbahs.
  20. Reminder to those thinking of travelling to Squamish this weekend. The Test of Metal is on - which means about 1000 mountain bikers will be racing through the Smoke Bluffs in the middle part of the day. Plus lots of other event related busyness around town.
  21. Reminder to those thinking of travelling to Squamish this weekend. The Test of Metal is on - which means about 1000 mountain bikers will be racing through the Smoke Bluffs in the middle part of the day. Plus lots of other event related busyness around town.
  22. you guys nailed it, well done. The Buttress is a notorious gongshow and that .10c the scene of many a late evening domestic dispute and intro to improvised aid-climbing. At least the big ledge provides comfortable viewing, though it gets shady late in the day so those who are near the back of the conga line are advised to bring a sweater (and maybe a pillow and a sudoku). WRT the 5.9 finish variation: http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/07/28/a-long-story-for-the-readers/
  23. Free to aid transitions?

    if you get solid gear above then hang down a batman cord or some slings long enough for them to reach. Keep them on a tight belay on your primary climbing rope. If you climb on doubles then they can batman one while you take in slack on the other - this would be potentially sucky though because of the stretch and skinny-hard-to-gripness of most doubles. Also the 2nd doesn't necessarily have to hang out while you pull the slack out. Maybe they can tie a new loop and clip in and carry the slack themselves. This would be faster. If you want to avoid them jugging on the autoblock then throw on a backup prussic and get the followers load on that (release a tiny bit of slack through the autoblock, but leave it set up.) Lots of "it depends" options.
  24. Attention Fan Club Members

    If you received an email from me yesterday requesting wire transfer money I hope you realized it was a scam. I STRONGLY suggest you confirm the security of your own email and other "social media" accounts. This includes checking that there is no auto-forwarding of messages to your email account that are being sent to an unknown address. Any information that was stored in my 6+yrs of gmail archives is now "out there"
  25. Attention Fan Club Members

    Hey 111, if there was any amount of personal info in your email archives I'd recommend filing a police report and setting up a credit alert (equifax, transunion etc.) to establish a formal paper trail in the event of future identity theft problems.
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