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Everything posted by matt_warfield

  1. Ride of the Valkyries @ Purina

    I still have a chalk bag I bought from Dick about that same time at the Snow Creek TH . He had a mannequin riding shotgun in his van and told stories of being hassled by The Man about vagabonding and being, well, eccentric. I learned later of his substantial contributions to Leavenworth climbing.
  2. Free Solo wins Oscar!

    I first saw this excellent movie in Seattle with about 10 people and then saw it again in Bishop with about 100. It is on TV on March 3 on the National Geographic channel. Mikey's contribution behind and in front of the camera is superb.
  3. [TR] Enchantments - 7 Bulgers in a day 07/14/2018

    7 summits and 0 overnight permits needed! I love big days- traveling light and fast with minimum muss and fuss. This site has a few more climbing oriented day trips in the area- check for a recent thead on endurance climbing days and earlier ones including Peter Croft's big traverse of classic climbs. My best was a through hike Snow TH to Stuart TH like you with just a couple of peaks but still a great day in the mountains.
  4. Speed records in Washington

    There is a recent article about super enduroathlete Kilian Jornet in Outside mag. The article mentions doubts about his Everest trip expressed by the one and only DH, of interest to those who recall the epic discussions about Rainier, etc. on this site years ago. It never hurts to have another turd in the punchbowl.
  5. Hayden Kennedy Dead

    The old timers or history buffs may recall that Hayden's father Michael nearly died in a rock climbing accident at Granite Mountain in Arizona a few decades ago.
  6. [TR] Mount Sir Donald - NW Ridge 9/3/2017

    Sarcasm is one of the attributes G-spotter brings to this site, especially for all things Canadian. Thanks for the TR.
  7. beginner rock in/near Wenatchee?

    Leavenworth granite (e.g. Icicle Canyon) is good for beginners: solid rock, less intimidating slabby terrain, good toproping, and many opportunities for beginners like Playground Point, etc. Stop in at the shop in Leavenworth and get the scoop.
  8. Speed records in Washington

    I saw this and had to reread the whole thread. My additional offerings are as observer and scribe as while I have aspired to endurance hiking/scrambling, my climbing has never been much faster than snail pace. -Leor's many offerings are inspiring and mind-boggling but much done in the Sierras or with good trails and without the unique approach/deproach "opportunities" located in much of the Cascades. -I spoke with Croft about his effort in the Enchantments. I don't believe he ended with Snow Creek Wall but did start FROM ICICLE CREEK and not the Stuart Lake TH so tack that on to his one day traverse starting with the complete N. Ridge. As a side note, he said he nearly got arrested by The Man on the 8 mile road since they were trolling for parking lot vandals and couldn't believe a lunatic would be out hiking fast on the road at midnight. -I was doing Outer Space in the 90s when Miles Smart came soloing by with a partner going fast. Another party asked if I was concerned that a ropeless climber was just above me. I said I had zero concerns.
  9. [TR] Four Days in Boston Basin 8/1/2017

    I had to chuckle about your ring issue. Many years ago I dragged my first wife on a 2 week climbing adventure on our honeymoon and clearly remember the many issues of climbing with them: scratches, constant clinking on holds, eternal fear of finger locks and other jams, dealing with swelling/shrinking of fingers, etc. I decided then and there to ditch rings when climbing. I stand by that decision and it has stood the test of time through 4 marriages. I have finally decided to ditch the ring at ALL OTHER TIMES as well. :kisss:
  10. Moderate sport climbing in Squamish

    By "adventure" I mean run out especially in higher grades. Nothing like lots of rope above the last bolt to make you rethink your likes and dislikes.
  11. Moderate sport climbing in Squamish

    For moderate sport climbing I wold also recommend "Chek" which is a conglomeration of crags just north of Squamish. Squamish thrives on traditional but also has sport but plenty are adventurous slab climbs, an acquired taste. Check with a climbing shop or gym in Vancouver, Squamish, or Whistler to get the straight scoop from local experts. Also, this site is declining in popularity so you might check some other internet sources for further info. Gene and I are old school and stubborn so still log on now and then.
  12. Woot! Public service announcement Re: park passes

    Thanks, will put on my aging bucket list: 50: AARP 60: me, yay so far 62: Discounted parks and forest pass 62: First opportunity at social security 65: Medicare 87: Life expectancy now reduced by years of doing what I want so will take what I get. 93: Live to Fred's current age if really lucky. ageless: ability to climb within my abilities and be happy.
  13. Supercrack Leavenworth

    I dug into this around this original post because of the preposterous notion in early books that it hadn't had a 2nd ascent despite strong climbers like Croft, Herr, Skinner, etc. in the area following Timson's ascent. I found claims of locals such as Yoder and Wilson and perhaps others doing it but as often happens, there remains much mystery.
  14. Beacon

    Hoping for a fast recovery for you ivan, although in my experience the list of failing body parts due to aging and (mis)use seems to get longer faster than the list of ones repaired either naturally or through the gifted hands or prescriptions of doctors. Hopefully you can continue blessing these ever diminishing annals with your posts. I have still never climbed at Beacon, but come back to this thread for the unmatched tales and climbing lore....
  15. Buying hand drill... any advice?

    And as an addendum to gene, nothing wild about finding the remaining gear/tat from "traditional" rappel anchors. Concentrate on the wealth of knowledge from soulreaper and leave bolt ethics to the "experts", or maybe since it is election season do a poll.
  16. Drew's site...

    Sponsors: Tenaya, Trango, and Mom and Dad.
  17. Looking for advice on where to live/work...

    Wyoming is short on population centers. Good alpine in the Tetons and Wind River Range are not near a big medical center and southern areas are accessible from N. Colorado. Listen carefully to mneagle about Fort Collins- it gets you away from the armpit qualities of Denver and is close to a huge amount of climbing. RMNP is one of my favorite areas anywhere and has a ridiculous amount of climbing from bouldering to alpine.
  18. Looking for advice on where to live/work...

    Original request for Level 2 trauma center is a deal breaker for many ideal (i.e.smallish) outdoor cities. Harborview is Level 1 I think but I doubt you will find Level 2 or higher in any target city smaller than Seattle, Portland, Denver, SLC, which are all good choices for overall climbing anyway.
  19. Looking for advice on where to live/work...

    Hearty second on Colorado, with altitude and climbing galore of all types plus major health care centers. Boulder or Fort Collins areas get you away from the Denver bustle a little. Wenatchee or Bellingham WA, while not offering high altitude options, are worthy of consideration. You could consider Flagstaff AZ but alpine options close by are more limited. The east slopes of the Sierras are wonderful but lack the population centers for your health care fix. Good luck with the inevitable tradeoffs.
  20. Mikey Likes Rocks

    Mikey Schaefer aka Wallstein on cc.com getting some press: link
  21. Winter speculation thread

    Normal is restricted to a setting on your washing machine.
  22. [TR] Mt. Index - North Peak - North Face 8/21/2016

    I love a good story about climbing splitter granite cracks in the alpine with great pro and perfect weather under an azure sky. Guess I will have to wait! Sometimes getting on top of a cool looking peak really is the most important thing.
  23. Thanks for the TR and the Priti pics. Good timing for the pocket glacier- doesn't look very mean right now! Many a great adventure to be had car-to-car in a day. Followed of course by a good sleep.
  24. Trip: Pennsylvania - Manufracture Date: 3/13/2000 Trip Report: This is a true story. There is a route in Bellefonte Pennsylvania in a quarry. Since it is a quarry no feds or narcs or local gangsters were involved to quarrel with. When I did it lycra was just in so no weapons were involved as they would be easily ascertained. Some natural lines exist. But one blank wall at about 80 deg. had no handholds. Whatsoever. Blame it on the people who did the demo work. They can sit on their asses in equipment and could not climb 4.2 but that is beside the point. Dude comes in and uses a cutting blade to create a perfect crack. Imagine an artist with a clean slate on a blank wall with a legal cutter. What size? Tips, fingers, small hands, thick hands. Not offwidth or he would be shot. He chose medium fingers. About 100'. 5.9. Gear Notes: Bolts only because of the rock. Approach Notes: 15 minutes hike. Quarry is frequented by locals that dive in instead of climb. Clothing might be optional.
  25. Mikey Likes Rocks

    I don't expect a lineup on this one soon! Too bad it didn't make it into the Climbing article.