Alpinfox Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 What is this thread about again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) people should leave other peoples shit alone regardless of their spelling habits and not steal others stuff IMO. period. Oh look, a tent in the campground. Mine. Oh look, a sleeping bag on the ground. Mine. Oh look, a parked car, they should know better than to leave their personal stuff on public property like this here parking lot. Mine. Someone leaves their trash, like draws, on a route, and if you can't stand it then leave a note or tell them to get the shit off the wall cause it disturbs you. But theft is theft. On the other hand: of course, a cam or bail biner is trash and to be bootied immediately. Edited April 23, 2009 by billcoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Speaking of heads, my head nearly exploded when I read this on my snacky treats package earlier today: Serving Size: 1 Container # Servings per Container: 2 Nice. What was that on??? My medical marijuana prescription Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 What is this thread about again? Gawd, I wish Raindawg was here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 people should leave other peoples shit alone regardless of their spelling habits and not steal others stuff IMO. period. But people shouldn't abuse that by leaving their shit lying (laying?) around everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CollinWoods Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) I suppose im used to climbing in Vantage and havent seem QDs hangin around but it reasonable if there are other hard routes like that in the area and thats what people do... Some times its better to trust yor own gear though. I dont like the idea of leaving gear around. Edited April 23, 2009 by CollinWoods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 people should leave other peoples shit alone regardless of their spelling habits and not steal others stuff IMO. period. But people shouldn't abuse that by leaving their shit lying (laying?) around everywhere. I know someone who had their entire rack stolen by a person who shared your viewpoint when they left it at the base of an El Cap route and went back to the car to get a 2nd load. You think thats right? Remind me the next time you fire a multipitch route and leave a pack with shoes and extra gear at the base so I can help clean up your shit and donate it to someone who has had their stuff stolen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CollinWoods Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) There are always going to be people who will snach peoples gear every chance they get but in other cases it might look like they abanded there gear. Like i said before, i cant spell. Edited April 23, 2009 by CollinWoods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bretjohnston Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 im a normal guy just like you who has to work to get stuff. please dont dabble in areas you know nothing about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bretjohnston Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) im done with this. my point has been put across. gear stealers suck. thats all there is to it. bill coe said it best Edited April 23, 2009 by bretjohnston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 people should leave other peoples shit alone regardless of their spelling habits Nobody took the quick draws because they knew the owner had a 3rd grade education. They took the quick draws because they assumed they were abandoned. Honest mistake I am sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 im done with this. my point has been put across. Cascadeclimber yahoo locals: 1 Quickdraws: 0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) Bret is a cool guy (who despite grammar and spelling can probably outclimb 99% of the people on this site) and it is extremely common to leave fixed draws on hard sport routes. Porn Star is far from the most popular climb at 32 at 5.13d and I'll bet Michael Orr had his draws hanging on the FA as well as Kubiak on Whores of Babylon. And see how many times Chris Sharma has placed his own draws when he is on 5.15a (even though he skips some). You can always disagree, but in hard sport climbing, the draws are most often in place and I agree with Bret that it is bad form to take them. Take a look at Smith sometime- fixed draws all over the place on the hard stuff. Edited April 23, 2009 by matt_warfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 i am aware that the cliff doesnt belong to me, but the equipment does. im sorry if i came off a little hard on the post but all i was trying to do was make a statement that steeling a whole climbs worth of draws isnt cool. my bad I think its lame someone took your draws....but its not stealing if you left your gear at the wall on purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Hey Brett, You probably should cross post here. They're real hard core craggers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 and it is extremely common to leave fixed draws on hard sport routes. Maybe this is the problem. Aborogine isn't a hard sport climb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 I agree it was lame that someone took his draws. But the lesson should be learned as well that if you leave your gear up on the wall, there are plenty of people that have no problem with bootying it. Bad form or not, just be aware of that next time and don't leave it on the wall unless you can live without it. And don't be surprised when it goes missing if you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 i'm just being a jackass, bill. Of course it's not cool to take someone's shit. I was just in a bad mood because of the tone of the original post. No offense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Brett, Lame about the theft. I had about 10 draws stolen off a project about 12 years ago. Stealing team Petzl draws is pretty stupid. WW1 ain't Vantage. Don't mind all the spray as not a one of em' could redpoint Porn Star. You da' man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Well said Jens. QD thiefs are stupid. Sprayers need to spend more time on their hangboards and less at the computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) im a normal guy just like you who has to work to get stuff. please dont dabble in areas you know nothing about. I agree with bret. Don't take stuff that's not yours. What someone did was above all disrespectful as well as blatant theft. Above a certain grade in sport climbing, you leave your draws on a project. Thats kinda how it is. When you climbing at you limit or above, it's super difficult to mess around with hanging your draws every go on a route. It's almost foolish. Your climbing for difficulty. Especially on a really overhanging route, it's really difficult to hang the draws. When you start getting into mid 13's and 14's it's a totally different game. Unless you've climbed at that level, it's really hard to understand. It's not like going off to Index and firing off 10 pitches of 5.10 and 5.11. It's not even like climbing 5.12 trad. It's a different world IMHO. What Bret did is nothing out of the ordinary. And old school tradsters can't bitch about this one. Trad and spot are different games. When I do a hard sport routes, I leave my draws. When I do a hard trad route (yes we have hard cracks in in Espana) I pull my gear every go. Different schools of thought. Draws are not trash, that is a stupid statement. You can't compare leaving draws on a route to leaving trash at the crags. If that were the argument then chalk and bolts would all be trash. As of right now, I've had draws on a project for two weeks. Nobody has touched them. As for Bret, not sure about Washington anymore, but there are not tons people who climb and know about routes in the grade range your talking about and the people that do are usually a fairly small community. When people steal draws here, it's more of a personal vendetta versus outright theft. It takes a fair amount of work to pull draws off a hard route. You sure you didn't piss someone off? Edited April 23, 2009 by TimL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 It sounds like the stolen draws were from aborigine which is a 5.11 something right? The draws are still on the harder bits above? Maybe the fact that the draws were in place on the easier parts is what offended someone who took them down. If we had draws hanging on a 5.7, I would pull them too as that is just too lazy to remove. But in a place were there are lots of people climbing hard, leaving draws on a "moderate" line could be seen as bad form. BTW, before you raid my house looking for cheap draws, I can't climb 5.11 so I didn't take them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) Good point, below a certain grade if you leave your draws on a route and they get nabbed.....well enough said. Too bad this has to be wrapped up in grades cause theft any way is not right. But you also have to be smart about where you leave them. In this case, I don't know the routes because I've never climbed at Little Si too often. I prefer Index, where I can take my gear out. Edited April 23, 2009 by TimL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 The company I work for replaced dozens of fixed draws at several popular Nevada crags free of charge. I think we hung up something like 70 draws, not to mention a couple dozen 1/4" wire rope fixed anchors. The local climbing comnunity was very thankful, and none of the draws got stolen as far as I know. Of course, we attached them with quicklinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdDog Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 A few years back my partner and I cleaned some old tat off a few routes while rapping down. This was old faded shit slung on horns and tied off to trees. We tested it for break strength along with some of our old but not sun faded webbing. The sun faded stuff broke near but not at the knot at about 800lbs. Old non-faded webbing broke about 4000lbs. at the knot. So, how long do you leave your QD's hanging in the sun? And yes, sport test pieces usually don't entail big whippers, but do you really want fall on UV degraded threads? Just for the record, I would not remove QD's off a route; on the other hand I wouldn't leave my gear on a route either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts