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Blake

first ascent [TR] Mt. Buckner- Southeast Ridge (F.A.) IV 5.8

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Climb: Mt. Buckner-Southeast Ridge (F.A.) IV 5.8

 

Date of Climb: 8/6/2006

 

Trip Report:

4427HPIM1186.JPG

 

On August 5th and 6th Gordy Skoog and I climbed the SE Ridge of Mt. Buckner. Gordy had been eyeing this climb for 25 years, ever since seeing the line from a climb of Goode. I had been interested in the line for about 25 days, since seeing it while windsurfing in front of my house. I asked Colin Haley if he was keen to have a go at it, but he was busy with some other little climb , and he mentioned that Gordy had shown an interest in the Ridge.

 

We met up at the toe of the ridge and the base of the Buckner Glacier on the evening of the 5th, after I approached via Park Creek and he came down Booker-Buckner Col.

4427downclimb.JPG

 

We soloed the lower 1/3 of the ridge in a couple hours that evening finding nice 4th and low 5th class climbing.

 

4427HPIM1166.JPG

 

 

(Gordy still looking photogenic after 12+ hours on-the-go.)

4427HPIM1170.JPG

 

We slept at a notch where the glacier reaches the ridge and began pitching things out the next morning.

 

4427Buckner_8-07_021.jpg

 

The climbing was initially quite loose, but the rock quality improved and good cracks were found as we climbed up the first of several major towers on the ridge.

 

4427HPIM1199.JPG

 

4427HPIM1205.JPG

 

We made one rappel to get down the backside of this tower and decided to try bypassing future towers in order to avoid more up-and-down than needed.

 

 

 

After skirting around to the left side of the ridge, we climbed back to the crest and topped out on the SE summit at 5:30.

 

4427Buckner_8-07_025.jpg

 

We scrambled over to the true summit and enjoyed the views all the way to Puget Sound before heading down towards Horseshoe Basin. I spent the night in Horseshoe Basin and hiked home yesterday, while Gordy headed out via Sahale Arm. We creatively named it Southeast Ridge of Mt. Buckner – grade IV, 5.8

 

If you do the climb from Stehekin mid-season onward, you won’t need an ice axe, crampons, or even boots. Ditching my crampons and approaching in light running shoes definitely made climbing easier on the carry-over. We figured if you climbed up and rapped off the towers we bypassed it would likely be a grade V route.

 

Thanks again to John Scurlock for some excellent photos and to Gordy for the climb.

 

4427HPIM1132.JPG

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Rock gear to 2"

 

Approach Notes:

Leave the Park Creek trail in open meadows 15 minutes past the 5 mile camp, cross the creek and head directly to the base of the route. Two hours from the trail to the start of the climb with no brush and no steep snow this time of year.

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Yeah! That's cool Blake.

 

Surprising that the SE ridge hasn't been climbed before.

 

The Skoog legacy continues! thumbs_up.gif

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Yeah! That's cool Blake.

 

Surprising that the SE ridge hasn't been climbed before.

 

The Skoog legacy continues! thumbs_up.gif

 

Might be Gordy's last alpine adventure actually....

 

I think that a great 4-ish day alpine trip would be to climb the NE buttress of Goode, then descend the easy way to the Park Creek Trail, walk 1/2 mile up the trail to the 5-mile camp, and then do Buckner SE Ridge the next day and carry over to Cascade Pass.

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thumbs_up.gifrockband.gif Good work alpine youth. I was wondering how things were going for you 2 while in ID... good to see things turned out great! Looking forward to our next adventure :stoke:

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That south side of Buckner has some cool shit - more relief than the north side. I remember checking it out when we were in there a couple winters ago. Looks like a fun climb.

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Sounds like a great climb! Very cool the "I'll come from the west, you'll come from the east, see you at the base of the ridge".

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So you guys swapped keys and hiked out the other way as a traverse?

 

Both went back the way we had come, he from the west, me to Stehekin.

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