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Everything posted by TeleRoss

  1. [TR] Bear- DNB 8/22/2005

    Climb: Bear-DNB Date of Climb: 8/22/2005 Trip Report: Climbed the Direct North Buttress on Bear Mountain with Sky. We decided on doing a two day trip. Leaving Seattle early in the morning and doing the approach the first day, then doing the climb and hike out on the second. Sounded like a great plan to the both of us. So...we leave Seattle around 4am on Sunday and headed for the border with our friends to the north. We were slightly apprehensive, and Sky had a few butterflies as we neared Sumas, due apparently to some run-ins with the RCMP and Whatcom Co. Sheriffs Office from a few years prior. However we were greeted by a very friendly Canadian beauty who's only question was what took so long coming back up to visit... Once through the crux of the route everything else seemed like a breeze...we were home free now. Except...true to form we lost the trail as soon as we were on it and found ourselves in a marshy wasteland cursing as we sunk ankle deep into the murk. This was followed by some nice hiking in old growth cedar forest, and then by some seriously heinous bushwhacking through more murky swampy vinemaple and devilsclub thickets. After a few miles we located the trail again shortly before Bear Creek. Up the ridge and into amazing blueberry grazing grounds where we, and especially Sky, indulged in natures bounty. We weren't sure if there was going to be water up at camp, but Ruta Lake seemed out of the way, so we decided to chance it and head straight to camp. At the saddle we could hear a water trickle coming off a buttress a little higher and went to water up. The next morning we awoke at 4:45 to clouds and fog, and slowly ate and got shit ready. Decending the scree/talus slope down and around the NW Buttress was easy but tedious, and as we rounded the buttress the immense N side of Bear became visible. Shrouded in swirling fog and cloud it looked ominous, feeling super tiny with this enourmous wall with huge buttresses dropping down around us I felt truely in the hall of the mountain king. We put on crampons to cross and ascend the glacier to the toe of the buttress, up a little farther we found a nice place to access the slabs. We didn't waste much time getting off the glacier with all the ice popping and creaking and Sky and I both standing on a precarious looking/feeling block of ice. I started up the slabs while Sky made himself a bit lighter. I tried to kill him with a 30lb trundle but failed because Sky even while squatting has the reflexes of a cat and quickly jumped out of the way to safety. With that excitement over we made our way up the slabs and did a bit of spicy moves in the tennis shoes before stopping to belay. Sky led a pitch up to the top of a pedestal and then up to the base of the prominent dihedral. I got the dihedral pitches which went as one long rope stretcher. Super fun climbing with a little bulge to pass. We did one pitch for every two on the Kearney topo and quickly found ourselves on the big snow patch ledge. We continued linking pitches up improving rock and climbing. Sky got the great corner fist crack pitch which we both thought was the best of the route...not technically difficult but nice and sustained on probably the best rock of the route. Up up up, and soon enough we were on top after 8.5 hours on the rock. My first thought after topping out was "That's it?" WTF?...I had come expecting sustained hardish climbing and instead found mostly moderate climbing with a couple little cruxy spots. The only thing I could think of was the great line from Chuck D. and Flava: "Don't Believe the Hype!" Quickly back to camp for a feast of smoked sardines, trout and crackers and we were ready for the long haul out. This time we were able to actually follow the trail most of the way which makes life way better....then it got dark. We took turns intermittently following and then losing the trail,backtracking,bushwhacking and generally wandering in circles until we stumbled out and onto the end of the abandoned road...phew! What a relief. Back in Chilliwak we hit the pub for beers and Miccydees for burgers and fries and headed for home. Gear Notes: 60m 9mm Largish rack including some tiny stoppers shoulda had: more tequila Approach Notes: Trail was hard for us to follow cause we're retards and bushwhacking is way more fun.
  2. Climb: A Bugaboo Adventure- Date of Climb: 7/19/2005 Trip Report: Jason and I went up to the Bugs to see about getting in some climbing. The weather had not been promising of late but it looked like there was going to be a few good days mid-week so we decided to give it a go. We left Seattle around 8:30pm on Monday and after sleeping for about 2 hours just across the border we eventually pulled into the parking lot bleary eyed and beaten from the long drive and the beatings from the king sized potholes on the logging road. -The view from near the parking lot We slowly made our way up the steep trail to the Kain Hut and continued on to Applebee Dome where we made our camp amid a city of tents and bivy sacks. We chatted with others who had stories of very windy and cold weather to relate to us, this day was sunny and warm and we enjoyed relaxing around camp playing cards and sipping whiskey. -Snowpath from our camp With the weather looking good for Wednesday and Thursday and maybe Friday, we decided to try the Wildflowers route ont the west face of Snowpatch Spire and then carry on into East Creek where we would bivy and then climb the Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser on Thursday, then likely spend another night in East Creek and return to Applebee Friday morning for more R&R. So after getting plenty of much needed sleep Tuesday we got up early Wednesday and with bivy gear headed up the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Upon reaching the col I headed over to the convienently located privy and admired the view. -Howsers from the Bugaboo-Snowpatch privy It was damn cold so we took our time admiring the views and looking at the various routes on the west face of Snowpatch. We finally started the climb and enjoyed numerous 5.9 pitches up a large corner formed by the west face and a large pillar. But damn it was freaking cold. The corner faced north and we didn't see any sun until we made the ledge at the top of the pillar. -Jason climbing the corner -Jason above the pillar near the summit The climb was lots of stemming and cracks in and around the corner and then some groove and cracks above on the face which lead directly to the summit of Snowpatch. -Howsers and Pigeon from the summit From the summit several raps got us back to the glacier and our gear. We slogged our way up to the Pigeon-Howser col an began the descent down into East Creek. Wow what an awesome place. South Howser and the Minaret tower above you and the valley openening up across the way was absolutely amazing. Not a bad place to spend a couple of nights, except for all of the enormous snaffles everywhere that seemed to take a liking to my boots. Several hours on snaffle watch eventually led to a couple hours of sleep. -Jason reading at the bivy -The Minaret in the early morning http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1034374/Minaret.jpg We awoke early Thursday to crystal clear skies and quickly readied and made our way down and around to the buttress. Much scrambling around on blocks and slabs eventually led us to a rope-up spot. -The SW Buttress of S Howser The climbing was stellar. Many crack and corner pitches, mostly 5.8-5.9 with a couple of slightly more difficult sections. -Jason somewhere on the route -Jason on the Great White Headwall The most difficult section was in the 5.9 squeeze, which was completely iced up. Some tenuous ice flake laybacks and icy stemming finally got us through that section. Somehow high on the route we ended up further to the left than we thought and we missed the tension traverse into the gulley. Instead we climbed flakes right up into the gulley. Anyway we finally realized that we were actually in the right gulley and made our way to the top of the gulley where a 30m rap puts you on a ledge from which 4th and 5th class leads to the summit in several hundred feet. That would be easy enough except for all of the snow and ice covering everything. We put on our boots and simuled very delicately up the snowy mess. After what seemed like forever climbing on very sketchy and tenuous ground we topped out and were afforded some awesome views. -Bugaboo -Snowpatch and Pigeon We were able to locate the top rap slings barely melted out of the large cornices perched along the summit ridge. Several raps down the face and over the bergschrund led us back to the glacier. Damn what an awesome day! Spectacular route. We descended quickly back to our bivy in east creek for a much needed meal and a good nights rest. Friday morning we woke up to some high clouds so we decided to take our time getting back to Applebee. We decided to rest Friday, but shortly after getting back to Applebee Dome it started pouring rain. We huddled in the tent playing more rummy and drinking the remainder of our supply of whiskey. The rain continued and the wind kicked up. As we were trying in vain to sleep I was wondering when our tent would be getting ripped to shreds. Fortunately the tent held its own. Unfortunately we awoke to more rain, and with a gloomy forecast related to us from people coming up from the hut we decided to bail. Wow the Bugs are awesome great fun. I am definitely looking foreward to the return trip!
  3. Trip: RR, Zion, Moab - A Sandstone Extravaganza Date: 10/12/2013 Trip Report: Trish and I had a week free to go play so we made plans to find some adventure among the various types of sandstone found in the desert southwest. We figured stops in Red Rocks, Zion and Moab would provide us with just what we were looking for. The government shutdown had us looking forward to even more adventure as we made plans to go rogue in Zion on some climbs that could be accessed from outside the park boundaries, but alas, the State of Utah preempted our civilly disobedient plans by paying to open the National Parks within it's borders. Nevertheless, much adventure was found... Our first stop was Red Rocks and a quick trip into Black Velvet Canyon to a climb called Texas Hold 'Em. Trish getting stoked! Looking north along the sandstone escarpment of Red Rocks Looking up at the big roofs capping Texas Hold 'Em The route climbs a little over 1,000' via four easy 5.8ish pitches followed by two 5.10 pitches and then two 11c and one more 10d up into the roofs, all on a wall that's pretty steep by Red Rocks standards. Psyched! Up into the 10d roof on the Panhandle Crack pitch...good fun! Looking up at the big roofs capping the route Trish got pretty worked on the 11c pitches but still managed alright after sorting out the powerful and steep moves. What a really cool route on an expansive wall...good fun! After grabbing dinner in Vegas we were off to Zion! Our favorite place to climb? I think so First up...Lapdance, a three pitch jaunt up a splitter corner...like the Creek came to Zion! Trish following the first pitch The second pitch climbs more splitters after you get past the tree! Trish just about to the top Looking back down at the road towards Zion Canyon The weather had been threatening all day and we had a few sprinkles along the way After rapping back down the route, we hemmed and hawed a bit about what to do next. The weather was iffy at best, and the wind had picked up. I walked around and checked out a couple of routes, but wasn't convinced the weather would hold, so we decided to just pack up and head back to the car and down to the campground to set up camp... Turned out to be a good choice because as soon as we started walking towards the car it started pouring rain! We got some nice scenery on the way to the campground after the storm passed through That evening the weather was still unruly and it was pretty windy so lounging at camp wasn't all that appealing, so we went to the brew pub right by the visitors center and had wings and beers, and met up with Mark Westman who had been climbing Smashmouth with Dylan when the weather hit...sounded like they had some good fun up there! Anyhow, the next morning the weather was good again so we hiked up to the Gatekeeper Wall to climb the Locksmith Dihedral, a really cool looking corner system on a nice wall. Some big carnivores back in here Gatekeeper Wall on the left, and the Watchman on the right Locksmith climbs the corner in the center of the photo...a really aesthetic line First pitch starts with a little chimney funk up to a roof, and then steep fingers Trish following p1 Looking up the sweet fingers corner on p2 up p2 Right near the top of the pitch, just as I was committing to a layback, I pulled off a football sized block of rock, I'm not sure how I didn't go for a big whip, but I stayed on, and yelled 'rock' and 'heads up' to to Trish who was standing on a small belay ledge about 120' below. I couldn't see her but I could see a bit of the ledge and what looked like a loop of rope sitting on the ledge...then, smash! The rock blew up right on the ledge! I asked if she was ok and she said yeah it had landed about a foot from her as she leaned to the left to avoid getting smoked. Super scary! Then I asked if the rope got smashed and she said that somehow the rock had missed it and gone between the loop which was actually up off the ledge a couple of feet. She examined the rope carefully and said it was ok. But she was way spooked. She got it together enough to follow the pitch but when she got to the belay we decided that that was enough excitement for one day and headed down. Great route though, we'll definitely come back and finish it! Cool scenery too Trish following p2 after her close call Psyched to be alive, but ready to go down The next day we went back up by the tunnel to climb yet another sick corner route called Warzone. The route climbs the corner in the center of the pic in 4 pitches, and varies from loose funk, to ridiculous splitter to complete jungle and back again Better weather again today While carefully climbing the funky and loose first pitch I must have pulled off a dozen decent sized blocks and sent them whistling down, prompting Trish to comment on the naming of the route...quite appropriate from the belayer's perspective! The climbing on the first pitch was quite good despite the looseness Trish following p2 climbs this insane splitter, up through a crux tips layback through a steep bulge...so sick! p3 is absolute jungle, albeit with some really cool climbing! Trish exiting the jungle near the top of the pitch p4...more sick splitter to a funky wide slot to easy but loose chimney to a really sweet top out! Trish on the summit After that it was time to leave Zion...we had dinner at our favorite place in town and then hit the road in search of...Towers! We got to Moab super late and got a hotel room in town, the next morning we got a great breakfast at the Love Muffin Cafe...great place to go for breakfast if you're ever in Moab! And then went and set up camp at the Castleton Campground right below the tower. Then we headed off to pop our tower climbing cherries on Jah Man Trish starting the long approach and then up the scree cone and finally, Sister Superior and Jah Man p1 chimney funk Trish about to exit the top of the chimney And happy to be out of there The second pitch is all time classic...step left into sick splitter up the steep wall Trish following p2 and, topping out! First tower summit after a great little climb! Trish rapping, and then it was quickly back to the car for cold beer! La Sal Mountains, Priest, Rectory and Castleton...pretty area The next day we were looking for something a bit bigger, so we made the wild drive down to Moses, what a crazy road down that cliff! Trish starting the approach to the towers We had planned on climbing Primrose Dihedrals but when we got there there was a party of three at the top of the first pitch hauling a bag, and then two french guys on p1 with the leader flailing and attempting to aid the crux, with to of their friends waiting behind them. This put us way back in line, and given our already mid-day start things weren't looking good for Primrose. We mulled our options and decided to walk around to the north side of Moses and have a go on Pale Fire. Aphrodite and Zeus and around to the dark side Looking up at the crux of Pale Fire, a sick splitter that overhangs and ranges from fingers to rattly fingers to .75s to tight hands, all with zero feet...it's dastardly! And on this day too hard for me to free, so I pulled on a couple pieces through the worst of it, and sent the rest. Would definitely come back and work on this pitch...it's sick! After the crux you continue past an intermediate hanging belay and up into a hero hand crack...so good! We took our time gearing up and getting psyched for the challenge, and before long the two french guys who were also waiting for Primrose joined us. Trish following Looking up p2, sweet hands with a little bit of funk At some point along the route, I heard a huge 'whoomph' and thought it was rock fall from one of the surrounding walls or towers, I looked all around from my vantage point, but all I could see was this big shadow circling slowly around...turns out someone had BASE jumped from the top. That had been what the party of three was hauling in their bag...pretty sick! And, as we would later discover, it had been Trish's major girl crush Steph Davis...maybe I shouldn't have been so quick to make comments of junk show going on hahaha... P3 starts with an awkward leany slot thingy and still plenty steep Trish getting to the crux bit on p3 p4 climbs steep funky face protected by all manner of ancient hardware, star drives with home made hangers, ancient 1/4 inchers, loose drilled pitons and other museum relics are found on this wild pitch, finishing up a cool slabby arete, and one last little chimney and short face section To a very cool summit! Nap time on top Nice scenery and light on the raps down and a full moon rising over the towers of Taylor Canyon...man what a day!!! That night we were expecting Sky and Micah to join us at camp at some time during the night but when we woke in the morning they were nowhere to be found. Neither of us had cell service at camp so we went over our options of what to do. Moab was crazy busy and the campground was nice, but crowded, as were the routes, we had half a mind to head back to the tranquility and solitude found in Zion, but we wanted to find out what Sky and Micah were up to before we left. We decided to stop in Moab for breakfast again, try to get ahold of the guys, and then go climb in Arches for the day. In a fortuitous , and lucky bit of timing, just as we were turning onto River Road back towards Moab, who should be turning onto Castle Valley road towards camp...Sky and Micah! Impeccible timing no doubt! ahahaha....we chatted briefly and all decided to hit the Love Muffin for breakfast and then carpool up to Arches for the day. Sky and Micah chose to climb on Argon Tower while Trish and I decided that the west face of Three Gossips looked good to us, and at some point we would all meet up again either to climb another route, or to drink more beer. Sky and Micah hiked off toward their adventure and Trish and I towards ours... Looks good anyway...but looks can be deceiving True to form per our stay in Moab, there was a party of 6 when we got to the base. Three were about to start up the West Face, which was the route Trish and I had wanted to climb, and the other three didn't know what they were going to climb. We went through the book and saw that there was a climb just to the right called the Lyons-Trautner...we asked them if they had any interest in that, and when they said no, Trish and I started gearing up. A climber on the west face route, the Lyons-Trautner climbs the steep flake system just right of center in the photo The route was sandy, very loose, and fairly scary, although the first pitch had some really good climbing on it, it was hard to enjoy it because of all the sand and the very real possibility of pulling large portions of the route completely off the wall. The second and third pitches climb an assortment of sandbox offwidth and chimney all full of loose rock...good times! We were both very relieved to get up and down that route without incident. Trish following the p2 OW/Squeeze Rapping down the west face route in afternoon light...man it sure looks pretty...but buyer beware on this one! That evening we rehashed tales of the day's adventure climbing in Arches while drinking beers and partaking heavily in the all you can eat pizza and salad buffet at ZAX in Moab. Full value adventure was had all around in Arches today! At some point we began discussing options for the next day, but first we had to stop off and restock the supply of beer and whiskey for camp. The party moved to camp where we met with the Diamond, and commenced to downing just about the last drops of said supply of whiskey and beer. Plans for the next day were indeed laid, with Micah and Dave casting off for Jah Man, and Sky and I heading up to Coyote Calling, with Trish taking a much welcomed rest day after 7 days in a row of hard climbing! Heading up to The Rectory Castleton from the approach North Face Climbers on Fine Jade, turns out it was a party from Ecuador shooting a documentary Looking up the insane goodness of Coyote Calling, techy moves followed by a burning layback up into a very perplexing crux coming out of a slot and over a bulge...so good! And hard! Sky following p1 yeah! Sky making thin balancy moves left(a theme for his leads) into the ridiculous splitter on p2 The splitter goes and goes, from fingers to off fingers to ones, to hero hand crack to funk slot and all the way back again to finger layback...so good! WHAT!?! Looking down p3, as Sky starts up, another ridonkulous splitter in an outrageous position on this blunt arete sweet climbing! so good Sky calmly dispatching the delicate moves left into, yep, another sick splitter on p4 The splitter ends at a notch and a big ledge where you transfer from climbing on the east face of the formation to the south face, and into the sun, and after climbing in the shade all day it felt great to shed some layers Sky making moves on the last 20' to the summit fucking sick ass climb! Looking north onto the Priest, Sister Superior, and the Colorado River Summit plateau of The Rectory with the La Sal Mountains and Castleton Tower just peaking above Castleton, standing proud What an insanely great route, and the perfect way to end a very memorable week of climbing! Thanks Sky...glad you guys made it! Parting shot...until next time word.
  4. Sweet work guys! Big wall, moderate grade, fine style! That rock looks, uh, rather interesting...seems that the route should have some extra rating just for the choss factor! kudos
  5. Trip: Incredible Hulk - Sunspot Dihedral, IV 11b Date: 8/3/2013 Trip Report: I love the Sierra! And why not, with splitter weather, beautiful bomber granite, mostly moderate approaches and especially because of walls like this! Incredible Hulk [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/993628_10151491802402757_1236525697_n.jpg[/img] But I must backtrack a bit... Trish and I had a few days off so we made plans to head up to the Hulk for a climb or two. But the drive is long so we decided to break it up by stopping to climb a route in Pine Creek along the way. So after leaving San Diego Thursday evening and bivying outside of Lone Pine that night, we drove up into Pine Creek just outside of Bishop Friday morning. Looking up a somewhat smokey Pine Creek [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1011244_10151491788007757_648824974_n.jpg[/img] There's a fairly large fire burning in the Sierra right now and from Bishop to June Lakes it's pretty darn smokey...fortunately it wasn't too bad and by the time we were climbing a breeze had cleared it out here in Pine Creek. A very short hike brings you up to the Pratt's Crack Wall Looking up the canyon [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/23319_10151491788062757_158134122_n.jpg[/img] Some nice stone...looking up Rites of Spring [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/993958_10151491788147757_1440477621_n.jpg[/img] Trish stoked! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/21452_10151491788252757_1726452494_n.jpg[/img] p1 [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1149069_10151491789222757_1678692048_n.jpg[/img] FUN roof on p2 [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/994547_10151491789182757_838782430_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1098006_10151491789197757_1098402355_n.jpg[/img] Trish leading the 5.9 corner [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1002354_10151491790077757_150277468_n.jpg[/img] She hasn't lead much trad so it was awesome that she cruised it! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/521924_10151491790082757_1185931828_n.jpg[/img] Stoked to get through the wide funk at the top of the pitch! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1011180_10151491790237757_1464004277_n.jpg[/img] The crux is thin fingers past a manky pin [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/534227_10151491790242757_211241791_n.jpg[/img] Trish cruising the crux [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/999427_10151491790442757_1274983233_n.jpg[/img] Really fun climb and highly recommended...cannot wait to go back to Pine Creek! There's tons of great climbing up there all in a really beautiful setting! So, after finishing the climb we quickly drove up to Bridgeport to get our permits and do the approach to the Hulk that evening. Unfortunately at the ranger station the permits for that day were gone! Bummer! Oh well, we got one for the next day and set about grabbing some food and beer in Bridgeport. We camped at Mono Village at the end of Twin Lakes Road that night...I highly recommend you avoid the junkshow there and camp elsewhere! After being sent off on a wild goose chase looking for a camp spot in the maze of dirt roads and paths in the rv park we finally found a shitty spot and got to work on a six pack and a bottle of whiskey by the fire.... ...and then at 4am the alarm is blazing in my ear...time to get going. Because we didn't get to approach the day before, today we were going to approach and climb, then camp out and hopefully do another climb the next day before heading home. Finally around 5 or so we were on the trail up Robinson Creek, and after a leisurely 2 miles or so you cross the creek and head up Little Slide Canyon and climb steeply up towards the Hulk. Early morning light on the approach [img:center]https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/969403_10151491802047757_375518377_n.jpg[/img] First views of the Hulk sitting high up in Little Slide Canyon [img:center]https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/999186_10151491802037757_1625713162_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005768_10151491802232757_527293777_n.jpg[/img] Trish passed out after reaching our bivy [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1003201_10151491802382757_1760615897_n.jpg[/img] Sunspot Dihedral shares the first pitch and a half or so of Positive Vibrations, and there were three parties on PV already so we lounged at camp for a while before heading up to the base of the wall [img:center]https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564298_10151491802892757_1589663416_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the route, with a climber at the p1 belay on PV...those guys ended up epicing BIG TIME! Later that night we watched their headlamps high on the route and then descending the gully sometime after midnight [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/312393_10151491802542757_2009420003_n.jpg[/img] We finally got started around 11:30...Leading p1 [img:center]https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1148873_10151491802907757_1848881721_n.jpg[/img] Trish following [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/539636_10151491802622757_1743235279_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the route, Sunspot takes the corner on the left, and Airstream takes the corner to the right [img:center]https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/945799_10151491802697757_424892826_n.jpg[/img] Trish following the money 11a corner [img:center]https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1098057_10151491804572757_1077766500_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1001894_10151491804812757_1200033050_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/972100_10151491804747757_2017675749_n.jpg[/img] The route is characterized by long pitches...we did the 900' route in 5 pitches, mostly steep technical stemming and laybacking with a fun roof undercling and a hero hand crack or two thrown into the mix! HIGHLY recommended! Looking up a the crux pitch, techy climbing past a couple of bolts along this rail to a few powerful moves and up into a beautiful corner [img:center]https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/76004_10151491804907757_291401174_n.jpg[/img] Trish past the crux about to enter the sunspot [img:center]https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1012888_10151491807292757_48746250_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/998447_10151491807302757_1319488567_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/971731_10151491807592757_224697095_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1012888_10151491807672757_744657339_n.jpg[/img] 10d corner high on the route, I think this might be the last pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/23350_10151491807287757_557516921_n.jpg[/img] Trish on the last pitch, in a beautiful position out on this arete [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1098198_10151491807677757_1889092128_n.jpg[/img] Trish really tired! I don't blame her, it was a long day! [img:center]https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/544771_10151491807812757_1852642948_n.jpg[/img] The route tops out on the ridge and you have the option of a long easy climb to the summit and then walk off or a nice easy rap right back down...we chose rap Trish rapping in pretty evening light [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/543819_10151491807887757_438446068_n.jpg[/img] With our late start, and Trish struggling on a couple of pitches, we got back to camp just before we needed headlamps feeling good but tired. Trish was pretty worked tho...haha... We made dinner, drank whiskey and watched two parties finish their climbs via headlamp late at night. We also discussed our options for the next day. We were wanting to climb a bigger harder climb, but the idea of taking on a long hard climb, then hiking out and then driving home sort of put us off, so we decided just to sleep in and then hike out, saving the harder climbs for another trip... One last look on the way out...we'll be back! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1009813_10151491808017757_65925291_n.jpg[/img]
  6. Great TR! The north wall of Bear Mountain is pretty rad! man, brings back some great memories of when Sky and I went back in there and did the DNB...good times getting lost in swamps on the way in, and then losing the trail somewhere by the river and bushwahacking endlessly in the dark on the way out! Outstanding!
  7. Trip: Red Rocks, NV - Rainbow Wall, Original Route, IV 5.12 Date: 7/21/2013 Trip Report: After two weeks in a row of failing on big routes I was feeling the need to send. But not just to send for the sake of sending, but to send something sick. I only had one day off, so originally we had planned a big link up at Tahquitz, but a giant wildfire had the San Jacinto Mountains pretty much on evac, so I mulled over our options...a big, difficult route, doable in a day from San Diego. Too hot for the Valley, too much approach for the High Sierra...ahhh...the Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks became the perfect choice. Nevermind a forecast for 100 degree temps and thunderstorms, when I was finally off work Saturday evening we were headed towards Vegas. En route we drove through a gnarly thunderstorm with lightning flashing through the rain squalls...pretty much something right out of a hollywood movie. When we finally rolled into our secret Red Rocks roadside bivy shortly after midnight, I was sort of doubtful of our chances for climbing in the morning because of the weather, nonetheless, after setting up our air mattress in the back of Trish's car, I set the alarm for 4:30am just in case... After a couple measley hours of sleep the alarm was buzzing in our ears, and we quickly packed up and drove to where the Red Rocks loop road exits. We brewed hot coffee and made oatmeal and then set off on bicycles to the Oak Creek trailhead, and were hiking towards Juniper Canyon shortly before dawn. Trish, wondering just what she's signed herself up for this time [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004786_10151468947637757_1561659052_n.jpg[/img] The approach is pretty mellow, up a nice desert canyon and up into some endless slabs to the base of the wall...about 2 hours from the car [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/969370_10151468947642757_1256557859_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1014164_10151468947872757_1875620936_n.jpg[/img] Trish up the fixed line on the steep slabs [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/557046_10151468947917757_1309893609_n.jpg[/img] endless sandstone slabs [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/1004880_10151468948057757_314575067_n.jpg[/img] finally, geared up and ready to go [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/994257_10151468948252757_314627550_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/971564_10151468948182757_1184912092_n.jpg[/img] we took the 11c variation to the first two pitches [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1069176_10151468974242757_1178400333_n.jpg[/img] trish following some super fun moves [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1069338_10151468948337757_1224528843_n.jpg[/img] then I linked the next two pitches into one long ass 11d featuring some laybacking, techy face and balancy but powerful movement Trish busting some moves [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1069941_10151468948502757_2063365620_n.jpg[/img] The next pitch went up the corner and then around the roof...way fun 11b [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/602990_10151468948392757_1506980786_n.jpg[/img] Trish about to get her roof game on [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/942420_10151468948717757_662676240_n.jpg[/img] Then I linked the two 5.10 corner pitches together...the pitches on the Rainbow wall are all short so linking is the way to go...why climb a short 80' corner, when you can climb a 160' corner? [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/970118_10151468948532757_904475390_n.jpg[/img] then you wander around on some ledges, chimneys and slabs for a while [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1016902_10151468974167757_122414160_n.jpg[/img] then traverse over this way [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/63900_10151468948852757_1739523140_n.jpg[/img] and eventually you are deposited below this...a steep, devious 11d corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/995931_10151468948907757_638379433_n.jpg[/img] at the jug, and about to get funky [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/546834_10151468974237757_720787719_n.jpg[/img] Trish following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1069808_10151468949092757_107264149_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1002471_10151468949137757_1646925615_n.jpg[/img] after which, you get this...an even steeper, thinner 12a corner....so good! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/62293_10151468948962757_408500063_n.jpg[/img] Trish sorting out the powerful sequences [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/971167_10151468949387757_511838294_n.jpg[/img] and then, just in case you thought it was over, you get a sweet 11b roof to top it off [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/581429_10151468949222757_974386817_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1014059_10151468974507757_1996046328_n.jpg[/img] Trish topping out [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005631_10151468949532757_179240109_n.jpg[/img] Vegas from the top [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/21993_10151468949597757_382576437_n.jpg[/img] obligatory summit shot...damn it feels good to send! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/943617_10151468949767757_832907881_n.jpg[/img] glad to be done rapping [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1069909_10151468974642757_1767485622_n.jpg[/img] before long we were hustling down the canyon to beat the oncoming darkness, and to refuell with serious amounts of caffeine for the long drive home Oh and two big thumbs up to our new Sterling Nano 9.2 70m rope...prob the best rope I've had word teleross TeleRoss from on the beach
  8. Trip: A few days in the valley - Date: 6/14/2013 Trip Report: Trish and I spent four fun, but HOT days in the Valley last week. We had big plans for long hard climbs, but conditions conspired to force us to seek shade, and eventually higher elevation up in Tuolomne. Here's what transpired: We left San Diego Wednesday evening. It's quite a drive to the Valley from down here, about 6.5-7.5 hours. So we drove a while before spending the night in some highway town north of Bakersfield a ways. Thursday morning we hit the road early and got to Yosemite mid-morning. We had a camp spot reserved outside the park in El Portal, but couldn't set up till after 1, so we played tourist a bit, as Trish hadn't been to the valley since she was a kid, so I showed her around and we took some photos of some big rocks First view of the valley when coming in from Wawona. [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1000555_10151411747377757_164135808_n.jpg[/img] Big stone [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/10583_10151411747947757_1711471529_n.jpg[/img] Cathedrals [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/970566_10151411747772757_1595586131_n.jpg[/img] Yos falls [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/998675_10151411747742757_791793697_n.jpg[/img] After making a lap around the valley we decided to hit the Cookie before heading down to set up camp Trish's first climb in the valley...Catchy, a sweet thin hands 10d [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1017306_10151411756832757_2023365306_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/998122_10151411757097757_1230825261_n.jpg[/img] From the top of Catchy we continued up into Catchy Corner, which consists of some of the most fun 5.11 hero laybacking you could imagine! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1017214_10151411757167757_1576658097_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1014289_10151411757307757_1079671180_n.jpg[/img] It was starting to heat up so we came down and set up camp, lounged a bit in the shade, and then hit up Arch Rock in the evening for a romp up the classic English Breakfast Crack. Two sweet pitches of some wide funk, followed by a sweet 10c finger crack. Heading up into the WIDE [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/179711_10151411769442757_351966043_n.jpg[/img] This continues for a nice 30' runout in some slick Yosemite squeeze chimney...good fun [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/665_10151411769712757_452449599_n.jpg[/img] Friday we had big plans. We got up early and hiked up to Astroman. SE face of Washington Column [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/998379_10151411757322757_981623431_n.jpg[/img] Looking up Astroman, Enduro Corner and Harding Slot visible above [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1017233_10151411757352757_1312410091_n.jpg[/img] Start of Enduro Corner pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1003885_10151411757527757_2061146191_n.jpg[/img] We climbed a few pitches up into a blazing blast furnace, before deciding that climbing in that heat was no fun and decided to bail Trish rapping [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/206822_10151411757567757_1704952011_n.jpg[/img] I was sorta bummed to come down, but not really because it really was pretty miserable in the heat. We consoled ourselves with cold beers by the river and views of El Cap. That stone is so rad it deserves two drinks [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/993060_10151411769872757_1939842582_n.jpg[/img] Later in the afternoon we went up to climb The Moratorium, a cool looking climb that climbs a large corner system for three pitches, with the crux being a tricky sequence of moves in a steep corner and some big moves off fingertip laybacks which felt pretty stout for 11b. A really fun climb...basically laybacking for nearly 400ft. Pitch 1 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1010456_10151411769957757_736178152_n.jpg[/img] Trish on p2 I think [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1000072_10151411757862757_1481272552_n.jpg[/img] Nearing the crux [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/179768_10151411770242757_1213612391_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/7312_10151411758102757_343598231_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1016054_10151411758232757_2127599896_n.jpg[/img] Trish taking my advice and stemming her way to freedom [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1017415_10151411758357757_1104793797_n.jpg[/img] Half Dome and Sentinel [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/225840_10151411758347757_331341925_n.jpg[/img] For Saturday we thought we had picked out a climb that would be in the shade all day and would provide some fun and challenging climbing. We slept in a bit before getting geared up and heading up the approach to Beggar's Buttress. Trish on the approach, wondering why we were suddenly in the sun, and it's inescapable rain of heat [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/9373_10151411758637757_185377260_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/970182_10151411758597757_163451269_n.jpg[/img] We opted to start via the 10c pitch of Giblet a super fun pitch...but meltingly hot in the full sun [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1010949_10151411758667757_1891780372_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1017317_10151411758882757_1429774831_n.jpg[/img] Trish was getting worked in the heat, and looking up at the next several pitches cooking away, we decided again to bail, with little protest on my part. Again we retreated to the cool of the Merced, and a 6 pack of frosty brew. And again once the afternoon shadows began creeping across the face of the Cookie Cliff we became motivated again. So we hiked up to see what Crack a Go-Go was all about....supposedly one of Yosemite's best finger cracks at solid 11c Looks fun! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1005061_10151411759157757_909162438_n.jpg[/img] Is FUN! [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/971390_10151411770282757_503531391_n.jpg[/img] Steep fingers and committing moves over tiny fiddly gear make for a great opening, and then it just keeps going and going and going...so good! Sunday was our last day to climb, but also the day we had to make the long drive home. We decided to head up to Tuolomne to climb in the morning, hoping for more pleasant conditions. We opted for By Hook or by Crook on Harlequin Dome, a fun looking route that climbs some corners and up through some cool looking roofs. Three pitches and 11b, and an absolutely great climb! On the way to Tuolomne, at Olmstead Point [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1011729_10151411759152757_2109892346_n.jpg[/img] Harlequin Dome [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1016586_10151411759262757_1159188028_n.jpg[/img] Trish on the short approach above Tenaya Lake [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1010232_10151411759457757_826802226_n.jpg[/img] Some very old Juniper [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/181282_10151411759492757_1591887287_n.jpg[/img] P1...a funky, slick barn doorey corner [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1016852_10151411770597757_912343523_n.jpg[/img] finishing p1 with the roofs of p2 above [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1000291_10151411770687757_1827789414_n.jpg[/img] Trish on p1 [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/5756_10151411760002757_213839514_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1011884_10151411760107757_1218075284_n.jpg[/img] P2 takes a wild line through the first set of roofs and then you traverse on a foot rail above before climbing a tricky little arete and some powerful tips laybacking through a second set of roofs...awesome pitch! The third pitch is some good funky Tuolomne crack climbing p3 [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1005275_10151411770812757_823919433_n.jpg[/img] Man, it felt GREAT to be climbing in 60 degree temps instead of 85! On top of Harlequin Dome [img:center]https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1017581_10151411760287757_1725249471_n.jpg[/img] We hustled down the descent gully, and hopped in the car for the long drive home down the 395. Cheers from Cali!
  9. Utah road trip from seattle may16 on..

    Wayne, I can get some time. Prob the week of the 20-24, or 27-31. Prob gonna be hot in the desert, but would like to do Rainbow Wall. Moonlight Buttress...as much free as possible, which should be most. The Silverback, and yeah whatever towers aren't super hot...anyhow give a shout if you still need a partner. Also there's a ridiculous looking route in the High Sierra that looks so sick check this out: http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/contiguous-united-states-lower-48/california/2012-sequoia-national-park-angel-wings-valkyrie-by-brandon-thau/ http://www.panoramio.com/photo_explorer#view=photo&position=1698&with_photo_id=58307839&order=date_desc&user=814238 http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Mjs5OzY_JSUi Should be good to go by first week of June...been a really low snow year around here. So yeah, with hot weather and whatnot...maybe a trip to the Sierra instead? Could do a few big rad routes cheers Ross
  10. Trip: A Week in Zion - Date: 4/14/2013 Trip Report: Spent another great week in Zion with Trish and her family. Trish's folks have a motorhome, and I gotta say, while I would never own one...knowing people who do certainly has it's perks. We loaded up the Lara family truckster late Saturday for a very early Sunday am departure from San Diego, and arrived in Zion in the afternoon. Setting up our accommodations for the week, under The Watchman [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/165470_10151330292932757_297503726_n.jpg[/img] The weather forecast was pretty sketchy for the first couple days, with wind, rain and snow all variably in the mix. But we figured that we should be able to climb something on Monday before the precip moved in. And when we got up in the morning, we set off for Voice from the Dust (8p. 5.11), with a raging hangover and threatening weather. objective [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/525301_10151330293012757_630688359_n.jpg[/img] weather [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422077_10151330293307757_759007844_n.jpg[/img] fortunately the precip held off, and all we got was a serious dose of gusty winds. The climbing was great following thin hands splitters, cool face, and interesting offwidths and chimneys to the top of Mt. Moroni. Trish following the pumpy thin hands on p2. [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/17399_10151330307752757_949957836_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/935007_10151330293207757_518564175_n.jpg[/img] Trish somewhere higher on the route [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/404629_10151330293422757_1815494716_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the upper half of the route [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/65139_10151330293367757_677827965_n.jpg[/img] The weather cleared, as the winds picked up [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/407997_10151330294697757_201776881_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/935007_10151330294797757_1714004772_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/551438_10151330294937757_1087092437_n.jpg[/img] Voice from the Dust is a cool climb...would recommend it. The next day the weather went to shit. Rain and snow ruled out climbing for the day, so we took a leisurely stroll up around the Temple of Sinawava. The Silverback.... [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/420618_10151330295367757_544132378_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/551388_10151330295437757_313587919_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/922906_10151330296787757_734844742_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/17421_10151330296682757_1134114824_n.jpg[/img] Wednesday we woke to clear skies and snow on the upper slopes around the canyon. We had a lazy morning and a huge breakfast before finally deciding to head up and do some cragging at Cerberus Gendarme. Lots of fun splitters to climb there and a good way to spend an afternoon waiting for the rest of the canyon to dry out. Thursday we wanted to climb something bigger again, so we took the shuttle back up the canyon to hop on Monkeyfinger. When we got off the shuttle and walked over to the climb, we saw a party of two already about to start up the slabs, and a party of three just behind them. Not wanting to climb with a crowd we mulled other options. It was pretty cold in the shade still so we looked around for something getting morning sun. Took the shuttle down to Big Bend and looked around, nothing really caught our eye. So we went back to the Temple of Sinawava and gave The Silverback a good long look. It looks so sweet, but I really wasn't in the mood for 5.12 offwidthing, so back on the shuttle we went after we finally made our decision. Bits and Pieces (8p. 5.11) climbs the southwest face on Red Arch Mountain just up from the Zion Lodge, and turned out to be good fun...and sunny! Trish finishing a pitch on Bits and Pieces [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/417920_10151330297137757_1687259220_n.jpg[/img] Looking down canyon [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/524569_10151330297192757_1206943485_n.jpg[/img] Looking at the start of a very funky Zion pitch! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/302045_10151330297347757_1668058255_n.jpg[/img] The pitch involved a wild lunging chicken wing into a flaring chimney/offwidth thingy about half way up the pitch. Good fun! Trish exiting the chimney at the top of the pitch...looking pretty worked....and I don't blame her that pitch was WHACK! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/30559_10151330297772757_1836852613_n.jpg[/img] After finishing off the climb, we hustled to get down as the sun was setting... [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/12028_10151330297822757_45568346_n.jpg[/img] ...and barely made the last shuttle back down the canyon from the lodge. Friday we had a nice chill morning at Casa Lara, before heading into town for a killer breakfast at Oscars. Afterwards we mulled around town being tourists, buying trinkets, I picked up a #5 Camalot for shits and giggles, and because I was tiring of running out so many offwidths. And finally after lunch we decided to go for a quick jaunt up Coke Explosion...which turned out to be a super fun little climb! Trish following p1 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/44462_10151330298207757_683510924_n.jpg[/img] p2 is the hero pitch...so fun! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/36583_10151330298432757_792569613_n.jpg[/img] Trish yodeling her way to the top [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/317309_10151330298722757_672818776_n.jpg[/img] Yeah, Zion is pretty [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/603672_10151330298832757_1322430143_n.jpg[/img] Back at camp...er...our hotel on wheels that evening with The Watchman ever looming above [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/46619_10151330299232757_1548344998_n.jpg[/img] Saturday was our last day to climb so we figured we ought to go climb something up there. There's lots of routes to choose from, and we finally settled on Negative Ghostrider (IV 5.11). Trish on the approach, which actually turns out to be quite mellow. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/936499_10151330300257757_1092331047_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/313893_10151330300352757_510270057_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/72593_10151330300427757_1891596706_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the lower half of the route or so. There's a giant detached white flake just above center in the photo called 'the ghost'...it's quite scary, and you climb around the right side of it, and then belay on top of it [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/404635_10151330300497757_166798818_n.jpg[/img] Trish following p2...chimney to sweet face and cracks...even a little moss thrown in. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/164963_10151330300562757_948175260_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422140_10151330300617757_781177146_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/408697_10151330300707757_1868053463_n.jpg[/img] Looking down at Trish on p3. I'm standing on 'the ghost', a giant completely detached flake. Fortunately the anchor is in solid rock on the wall above. [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/29370_10151330300747757_1829651566_n.jpg[/img] p3 has some sweet laybacking around a bulge to a steep short finger crack. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422068_10151330302437757_234879575_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the sick splitter on pitch 7 or so [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/936651_10151330302272757_605030957_n.jpg[/img] Trish nearing the top of p7 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/297971_10151330302532757_530549446_n.jpg[/img] Trish following a pitch high on the route [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/603705_10151330302792757_1860061000_n.jpg[/img] as usual in Zion the last couple pitches to the top are FUNK! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/31630_10151330302922757_827693277_n.jpg[/img] This route finished with a shrubby ramp followed by a wild unprotected face traverse, into the wideness above, back out onto unprotected chossy face, and finally back into an easy but way runout stem box chimney thing. I was so glad when I finally pulled up and out onto the top. Trish coming up the last bit [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/551539_10151330303072757_601210545_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/48062_10151330303117757_1430739193_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391073_10151330303152757_248556833_n.jpg[/img] relieved to be done! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/163531_10151330303177757_1712020244_n.jpg[/img] On top...with the scene of a previous EPIC behind me in the picture [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/12425_10151330303217757_860249927_n.jpg[/img] One last look up the canyon [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525178_10151330303342757_232588904_n.jpg[/img] Trish starting the raps down [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/934764_10151330303407757_275236220_n.jpg[/img] several surprisingly quite easy raps lead down the route to the base. Stoked! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/388143_10151330303527757_594925863_n.jpg[/img] Heading down for well deserved burgers and beers! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/301941_10151330303552757_916062097_n.jpg[/img] Until next time... [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/60562_10151330303807757_2047232541_n.jpg[/img]
  11. Yeah there's a few good looking routes up there. The Vigil, Silmaril, and Central Pillar Direct are tops on the list
  12. Trip:Atlantis and Romantic Warrior Date: 9/9/2012 Trip Report: I love the Needles, these spires have definitely cast their spell on me and rekindled the fire I once had for climbing. I had to go back...again. The climbing is just too f'ing good to ignore. There were two routes that were beckoning me to return... stronger, fitter, and more determined, and with a partner feeling the same. Some of my best memories in the mountains have been shared with my good friend Sky. It had been quite a while since we had seen each other, let alone climbed stout alpine routes together, but we found some common goals and set about to see what might transpire. Great times, chill moments, misery, frosty beers, splitter stone, misfortune, crushing and being crushed, rising to the challenge and being humbled would all be part of one of my greatest trips to the hills..... Sky flew in to San Diego Friday evening and we spent some time catching up over frosty beverages and burgers at a chill spot out in Ocean Beach. Saturday we stocked up on beer and pastis, and made the never ending drive to the Needles and set up camp. Sunday dawned cool and clear and we made the familiar(to me anyhow) slog along the ridge out to the Needles. Sky's first impression upon seeing the spires was quite similar to mine...amazement and awe and stoke! Atlantis 5.11c.... Atlantis follows a striking line linking splitter cracks just right of the center of the east face of the Sorcerer [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/577125_10150826226697757_147493404_n.jpg[/img] Sky eying the first pitch, an awkward and stellar leaning corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/10436_10151005368282757_957004879_n.jpg[/img] Sky leading the goodness [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/557376_10151005368422757_1060549567_n.jpg[/img] Me following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/246658_10151005370332757_878243355_n.jpg[/img] Nearing the end of the first pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/396546_10151005370532757_1204917688_n.jpg[/img] I led the second pitch linking flakes and cracks up to a big ledge from which the crux 11c pitch begins. While Sky followed some ominous clouds began building and darkening. As Sky was getting stoked for the crux lead and placing his first couple of pieces from the ledge, not too distant thunder began echoing amongst the spires. We hemmed and hawed a bit before making the decision to fix our rope and bail. Good call...as soon as we got down the sky let loose with a torrent of rain wind hail and lightning. We huddled along with 4 other climbers waiting for some respite. A very cold and miserable hour later the storm finally cleared and we all made our way back to camp to dry and warm ourselves by the fire. The next day we started late and jugged the line back to the top of the second pitch. Sky leading the crux pitch, some powerful layback moves to a big reachy move to a good edge...followed by some stellar finger crack moves to a classic "OH NO" sloper! Topped off with a splitter thin hands crack. Good fun! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564680_10151005368572757_343365476_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422587_10151005368637757_159990246_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/523551_10151005368717757_476112104_n.jpg[/img] Me in the splitter had crack [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/304648_10151005374667757_216055211_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/560467_10151005374757757_133543802_n.jpg[/img] After the crux pitch you have the option of topping out, or making a one pitch detour on a route called Lost at Sea, a sweet flake leading out across a smooth steep swath of stone, with a killer mantle at the end, with thin gear behind the thinning, expando-flake. Me leading [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/563936_10151005374812757_1665222720_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/400871_10151005374892757_1452794741_n.jpg[/img] The steep section was sweet, with great gear, but as you near where the flake turns right and turns into a finger tips traverse, it gets thin and very moveable. Unnerving gear behind the thin expando-flake was not calming my nervers as I eyed the mantle at the end. It was all up in my head but what was there to to but just get a high foot on the flake and stand? ha! I nearly pitched, thought I was gonna die, but somehow regained poise and stood up to clip the chains...PHEW! Sky following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/417204_10151005376012757_1854556200_n.jpg[/img] We rapped back down to the start of the last pitch of Atlantis, some funk undercling to layback, and up into a classic thin needles corner. Sky leading just off the belay [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/429965_10151005376302757_1240355507_n.jpg[/img] me following the corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/251082_10151005377667757_336397508_n.jpg[/img] What a route! Stellar, involved climbing with a couple of powerful cruxes. Always well protected, and always interesting. From the top of the Sorcerer, we rapped into the notch between Sorcerer and Charlatan, and climbed out Gemstone to the top of Charlatan, before stashing our gear and hiking back to camp. The next day we had much bigger plans. To climb THE route in the Needles, and maybe one of the best routes anywhere. Romantic Warrior climbs the singular feature on the SW flank of the Warlock Needle. A striking, steep, sweeping line with 3 pitches clocking in at 5.12, and one a very stout 11d. I was both stoked and quite intimidated at attempting such a climb. The Needles from below [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/578360_10151005384212757_1264618045_n.jpg[/img] There is conflicting beta on how best to approach Romantic Warrior. We chose what seemed to be the most direct and least time consuming: Drop down the notch between the Witch and Warlock and make our way down to the route...sounds easy enough. We climbed up a chimney up to the notch and found a rappel anchor on the other side. A single 70m rope rap got us down to scrambly ground between the spires. It's an intimidating place down in there with smooth stone rising on both sides. [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/396387_10151005384262757_1187786792_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/545950_10151005456392757_1446546690_n.jpg[/img] A bit of scrambling down the gulley led to a massive chimney and cliff. We found a rap anchor and Sky went first but the rope came up short and we couldn't make the ledge below. Bummer. We scrambled back out and sussed out our options. We discussed other climbs, possibly relocating to the Valley or High Sierra, but came to the conclusion that it would be pussification of us to forgo the route we had come for due to a slight setback while we still had a day left on the trip. We had heard that you could approach the route from a lower road so we hiked back to camp, packed up and drove out. The lower road afforded us some beautiful views, but the approach looked long and heinous through scrubby brush and steep slopes. Again, we went back and forth about what to do before deciding to head back up to camp and approaching from above, this time by dropping down between the Witch and Sorcerer, and continuing all the way down and around the Necromancer. This proved to be the magic potion, and early the next morning we were greeted with our first glimpses of this amazing route. Romantic Warrior 9p. 5.12b....for us 5.12 C0 Looking up the first four pitches [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576910_10151005384387757_759727642_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576961_10151005384437757_1517284984_n.jpg[/img] Once again stoked and quite intimidated, I tied in and set off up the first pitch, a funky, greasy 5.10 corner with typically fiddly gear. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422854_10151005385492757_1194764335_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/250307_10151005385572757_1954830027_n.jpg[/img] Sky following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578550_10151005386912757_829272688_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/377880_10151005386972757_1202819291_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/551931_10151005387092757_298166949_n.jpg[/img] The second pitch is the "Living Corner"...the best 5.7 in the universe?...quite possibly! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/304585_10151005386842757_62296976_n.jpg[/img] Sky leading the Living Corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/223867_10151005387207757_455782175_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/577011_10151005387307757_843139169_n.jpg[/img] Brassies....mandatory for the Needles! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/198537_10151005385652757_1544375174_n.jpg[/img] Me leading the sweet 5.11 layback flake on the third pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/303978_10151005391137757_2145882458_n.jpg[/img] Yup...it was steep and fun! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/252488_10151005391232757_804622970_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/402265_10151005391737757_896108320_n.jpg[/img] Sky following, nearing the top of p. 3 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/408258_10151005395492757_855001092_n.jpg[/img] We were like giddy kids in a candy store at this point. Maybe counting our chickens before they hatch, probably quite naive as to the turn in nature the route was about to take. Looking up the beautiful, thin, very steep fourth pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/318411_10151005387477757_578173860_n.jpg[/img] Tech stemming and power laybacking will get you up this one, but I have no idea how you're supposed to do the 5.12 mantel right below the chains. Sky pulled on gear, and I did some ridiculous mantel/layback/palming weirdness following and made it, but probably would not want to lead it that way. Yikes! Scary and hard! me following p.4 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/402866_10151005392607757_300810473_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422809_10151005394117757_1949106683_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/551942_10151005394332757_53749277_n.jpg[/img] nearing the dreaded mantel [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/264056_10151005394462757_1597983340_n.jpg[/img] The fifth pitch is a trick 5.12 campus traverse with virtually no feet for the first several moves. It does relent a bit towards the end...but not much....SICK pitch with ridiculous exposure! me leading [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564288_10151005394622757_180855989_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/267372_10151005394707757_806136278_n.jpg[/img] Sky following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/488354_10151005395617757_56900201_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/305078_10151005395822757_1018759051_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/643967_10151005395942757_1493446207_n.jpg[/img] pitch 6 offers a bit of respite, a 5.8 slab traverse across and then down to the anchors below the "Book of Deception". Sky leading across the slab. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/387158_10151005396082757_1861863456_n.jpg[/img] Me following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/199250_10151005396292757_1166456725_n.jpg[/img] I cannot even describe the mix of thoughts going through my head when I first saw this looming above the sloping ledge. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/530104_10151005396887757_923328055_n.jpg[/img] From the belay it looks like it isn't that steep, almost like it lays back from you...yes it's deceiving indeed, as it is vertical to overhanging...and very very thin and flaring. Quite more than I could hope to onsight. I gave it what I had, and it still beat me down. A beautiful unrelenting pitch that one day I will come back to climb clean. This time it went at 5.12 C0 for me...I can live with that as a first go. Ridiculous stemming, palming, smearing, and desperate tips laybacks will only be part of what you need on this pitch. Simply awesome! Giving it what I got mid-way up the pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/383985_10151005398002757_1278951563_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578493_10151005398057757_813104698_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/303656_10151005398102757_833070686_n.jpg[/img] Sky on the Book of Deception [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/423677_10151005399472757_923119320_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/260038_10151005399642757_1486332147_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/250736_10151005399742757_902640006_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/377740_10151005399912757_2061094061_n.jpg[/img] Pitch 8 is quite possibly the most sandbagged 5.11 anywhere. Some topos have it at 11b, some at 11d...I like to say 5.11+++++. It's hard and funky, and really really cool. Looking up at the pitch after Sky's lead. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/296754_10151005399992757_447963464_n.jpg[/img] Following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/296326_10151005401082757_2059152862_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564660_10151005401207757_2015344655_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/419189_10151005401332757_1756651146_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/423936_10151005401442757_1073672312_n.jpg[/img] The last pitch has some funky 5.10 face moves before pulling around an arete and onto a lower angled and very chicken head juggy face...a fine fun way to finish! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/551935_10151005401672757_511876819_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/386281_10151005402452757_147137284_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/223964_10151005402567757_475679451_n.jpg[/img] A bit of summit hopping leads to the top of the Warlock [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/267264_10151005401767757_1752369802_n.jpg[/img] And a fine view from the summit [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/557268_10151005401857757_861695578_n.jpg[/img] Can't really say much else about this route. It's stunning, hard and sustained and absolutely incredible. I'm sure Sky will add his much more eloquently and entertainingly written trip report here at Ski Sickness
  13. Trip: Zion sure is purdy in the winter - Date: 1/19/2013 Trip Report: Lots of pics from a beautiful sunny winter weekend in Zion [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/64654_10151172242257757_142663256_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/69673_10151172242452757_684400931_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/320993_10151172253937757_172072422_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/528789_10151172242997757_1417936118_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/399103_10151172254322757_608672429_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/555445_10151172254342757_614958442_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/424551_10151172254382757_1565533268_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/64951_10151172254502757_372320899_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/734864_10151172254612757_114193104_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/397423_10151172254697757_136248617_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/251971_10151172243217757_87362975_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/394970_10151172254782757_2078136755_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/22011_10151172243617757_2121910686_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/528851_10151172244107757_717548477_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/424060_10151172244412757_2039226817_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/424467_10151172245257757_915556106_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/304962_10151172245617757_882814935_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/314179_10151172246797757_1817597715_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/536956_10151172246532757_1456666256_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/734960_10151172254937757_1976876045_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/537121_10151172247607757_1111267532_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/734838_10151172247672757_1035889095_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/270869_10151172247757757_2078126488_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/25997_10151172249002757_207307749_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/560816_10151172255037757_1481849431_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/530592_10151172249217757_676820566_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/486048_10151172249622757_1803841931_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/184792_10151172249862757_955467326_n.jpg[/img]
  14. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Ski 1/6/2013

    This video is pretty cool!
  15. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Ski 1/6/2013

    The rock in the runnels there is difficult to find a good anchor. I remember one of my rap anchors being extremely frightening, but somehow held up. Sounds like you guys had quite the adventure! Glad everyone is ok. Sick ski!
  16. 2012 Top 5

    Had an amazing year climbing for pretty much the first time in 4 years! Needles: Atlantis and Romantic Warrior w/Sky Needles: The Entity and Don Juan Wall w/Trish Zion: Shune's Buttress w/Jason Zion: Crazy epic on Mojo Risin' w/Trish and Jason J-Tree: Taking my girlfriends 3 year old daughter out to the Tree and seeing her getting stoked on the rock!
  17. Easy San Diego cragging?

    El Cajon Mountain is a sweet multi pitch sport crag very close to San Diego. TONS of routes up to 5 pitches. Eagle Peak is another multil pitch sport crag about an hour and a half away. Very good climbing. Have fun!
  18. Trip: J-Tree - photo assault Date: 10/5/2012 Trip Report: Had a great first trip of the fall to the Tree! Highlights were Run for Your Life, Days of Thunder, 29 Palms, Rubicon and Coarse and Buggy...and of course just lounging at a desert camp by the fire on a beautiful fall evening! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/76245_10151032460437757_1134660015_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/577415_10151032460912757_4370052_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576520_10151032460957757_504311762_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/479921_10151032461057757_1151092445_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/541252_10151032461582757_1083080615_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/548456_10151032461677757_1323554269_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576513_10151032461742757_810822005_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/560477_10151032461812757_652724398_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/550651_10151032459392757_508646413_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525079_10151032462567757_746929364_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525143_10151032464957757_503094571_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548360_10151032465062757_796477588_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391636_10151032465237757_1558802532_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/580311_10151032470517757_199616258_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/577217_10151032470767757_652067482_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/644636_10151032471242757_743886633_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/561519_10151032471822757_947991303_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/46367_10151032472122757_1311839242_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/397217_10151032472512757_2107150943_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/75630_10151032472692757_972236305_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/580987_10151032472797757_1697164143_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/4873_10151032472992757_886269120_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548083_10151032473037757_81852830_n.jpg[/img]
  19. Trip: Zion - a few Date: 10/15/2012 Trip Report: Had an awesome week in Zion with Trish and Jason. We climbed a ton, did some hiking with my folks, drank some tasty beers, and even epic'd horribly once! A great week in the desert! Having never climbed in Zion before we decided to get on something short and moderate to familiarize ourselves with the rock and such. Smashmouth (4p. 5.11), is a sweet fingercrack splitting a steep headwall, and was perfect as our Zion intro. [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/66305_10151052436322757_1956418693_n.jpg[/img] Jason leading p3. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/308089_10151052436942757_1007301003_n.jpg[/img] Jason following p4 [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/557777_10151052437147757_724027288_n.jpg[/img] crux [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/644475_10151052437422757_155029478_n.jpg[/img] then we walked over and did Inner Chi (5.11) it's beautiful [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/59597_10151052438062757_913807516_n.jpg[/img] cruiser stemming with some decent rests, to a funky mantel up and out of the corner at the top...to a sweet one bolt anchor, because the second bolt had pulled...welcome to Zion [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/561988_10151052438567757_79819881_n.jpg[/img] The next day, Trish wasn't feeling well, so she decided to do a short hike and then relax in her hammock, while Jason and I climbed Shune's Buttress (8p. 11c) The first pitch in a super enduro 5.11 corner stretching 165' to the top of a prominent pillar. so good! leading p1 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/552378_10151052439697757_236401930_n.jpg[/img] Jason following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/69321_10151052441637757_767621113_n.jpg[/img] The highlights of the climb are exiting this chimney [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/530775_10151052442432757_1638443423_n.jpg[/img] and climbing this splitter high on the headwall [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/292727_10151052442667757_124464505_n.jpg[/img] Looking down the sick splitter [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/644026_10151052442927757_1005089669_n.jpg[/img] The next day, Trish was feeling better so we hopped on Monkeyfinger(8p. 5.12b). It's beautiful [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/76236_10151052540152757_1443880938_n.jpg[/img] Trish following the pillar on p1 [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/269940_10151052540407757_1928711062_n.jpg[/img] More corner splitters [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/420810_10151052451692757_811736890_n.jpg[/img] Jason following the endless finger crack above the roof on p2 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/578376_10151052452132757_1199803913_n.jpg[/img] Tired from our first three days of climbing we decided to just climb one pitch, Fails of Power (11c) a sick splitter that is like something from the creek came to Zion, and then do some hiking with my folks the next day. Fails of Power [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525635_10151052535542757_1097407839_n.jpg[/img] Sweet climbing [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578613_10151052535992757_1432786016_n.jpg[/img] difficult roof and layback race up to the upper chains [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/285673_10151052536037757_1650835063_n.jpg[/img] Then we went hiking. We saw some sheep [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/541293_10151052539487757_624565497_n.jpg[/img] some petroglyphs [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/269982_10151052539172757_1071170154_n.jpg[/img] and a nice sunset [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/299381_10151052539822757_1754340215_n.jpg[/img] Next up was taking my folks up the trail to Angels Landing Doin pretty good for a couple in their mid-60's! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548564_10151052460727757_1149938526_n.jpg[/img] summit shot! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/563977_10151052461477757_2061099137_n.jpg[/img] After Angels Landing, we had beers at the Zion Lodge, but Trish was stoked to lead something. She decided to hop on Cherry Crack, her first 5.10 trad lead! gettin stoked [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/426311_10151052462272757_1670427267_n.jpg[/img] sending! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/320378_10151052462577757_1825510572_n.jpg[/img] We had a couple of days left, and had a couple of climbs picked out...but we epic'd horribly on the decent from Mojo Risin', spending a cold night high on the peak before an epic hike out the next morning/day. DO NOT WALK OFF MT. JOHNSON! The climb, Mojo Risin'(8p. 5.11) was sweet tho! early morning light on the approach [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/224550_10151052463297757_1982760923_n.jpg[/img] Mt. Johnson west face, the climb follows splitters up the steep headwall in the left-center of the photo. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/693_10151052463077757_1350391193_n.jpg[/img] the climbing is adventurous, wild chimneys and caves, sick splitters, and some Zion sandboxes and stacked sand plates up a sweet face, oh and one gnarly looking bat inhabiting a sweet handcrack Jason leading into a funky chimney [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/318820_10151052463962757_461805035_n.jpg[/img] Trish following the splitter enduro corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/254251_10151052464397757_1833407110_n.jpg[/img] Jason high on the route [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/306667_10151052464572757_1714925221_n.jpg[/img] Trish topping out in the evening light [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/14179_10151052465702757_1462426280_n.jpg[/img] sun going down fast! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/418082_10151052465467757_1940861542_n.jpg[/img] summit shot, before an epic decent, involving a forced bivy, running out of water, never ending wandering up and down endless gullies and washes, many rappels, a freshly eaten deer carcass, and a long, long hike back to our packs, comfy shoes, and finally pizza and much beer! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/223648_10151052465812757_1523758141_n.jpg[/img] What a sick week in Zion! Can't wait to get back for more!
  20. Theme Photo Post, Post Your Pics

    High on Shune's Buttress [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/400267_10151073561457757_1581896318_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/230810_10151052528177757_385255653_n.jpg[/img]
  21. DMM Offsets

    always have #2-#6 brass and once I was turned on to the larger aluminum sizes, I now also always carry #7=#10 I also bring along some smaller peenuts and superlight rocks as doubles if I'm climbing long thin pitches
  22. New Washington Pass Super Topo book

    I'm definitely not a sandbagger....I think everything is hard.
  23. New Washington Pass Super Topo book

    looks like a sweet book! Nice to have a guide to the area... just wondering: when I climbed the Passenger Route in '07 it was decidedly 11c, when did it jump grades to 12a?
  24. Soft grades at Squamish: Why?

    I know this climber who's onsight limits are 5.12 finger cracks, 5.9 off width, and 5.10 J-Tree slab.
  25. Calling route free on-sight?

    ghastly weather? HA! It's always sunny here in SoCal