Juan Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 I just read this latest issue quickly while on the pot last night, and I did not see Fred Beckey mentioned anywhere. Did I miss something? Nice piece about Colin Haley in the up-and-comers, though. But note that he is the only alpinist in the group. Let me know if I missed something. Maybe the fumes were getting to me. But it seems like the emphasis is too slanted toward Yosemite climbers. I'm going to write the editors and bitch just for fun. Woozily yours, John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Beckey, schmeckey. Where the hell was der Sharma? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 ahhh...Index home-boy Justen Sjong made it in too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 But it seems like the emphasis is too slanted toward Yosemite climbers. R&I has been on a Yosemite kick for awhile now. Many covers and articles on Yose. I don't mind too much, but at the same time I know that there is a shitload of great climbers that do not hale from Yosemite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Where the hell was der Sharma? Toking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 But it seems like the emphasis is too slanted toward Yosemite climbers. R&I has been on a Yosemite kick for awhile now. Many covers and articles on Yose. I don't mind too much, but at the same time I know that there is a shitload of great climbers that do not hale from Yosemite. Fuckin Duh. You haven't figured it out yet that Cock and Lice and that other dumb ass climbing mag are all and only about the Boulder and Yos scene? I mean places like Washington only offer dirt and moss or a second-rate spot for a quaint mountaineering excursion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 I mean places like Washington only offer dirt and moss or a second-rate spot for a quaint mountaineering excursion. Ssshhh.....we need to keep this little climbing area as our own deep dark secret. Nobody needs to know! Especially not the climbing press! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Fuckin Duh. You haven't figured it out yet that Cock and Lice and that other dumb ass climbing mag are all and only about the Boulder and Yos scene? I mean places like Washington only offer dirt and moss or a second-rate spot for a quaint mountaineering excursion. The mags are just out there to make money, and talking about the clean rock of Yose, and Boulder makes money. Washington has great routes on both rock and mountain, but there are not many mag sellers around... Maybe we should start a 'Northwest Climbing Mag' and focus on The Cascades and Beckey. Or maybe we should just climb and enjoy the lack of coverage, which also means less crowds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 ... Maybe we should start a 'Northwest Climbing Mag' and focus on The Cascades and Beckey... Northwest Mountaineering Journal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Hell yes. That's why we live here instead of Colorado. MattP and crew have done an amazing job with the NMJ too. We just need to keep articles like Wayne's Pickets Traverse expose out of the AAJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Northwest Mountaineering Journal That site looks great, I'm going to have to spend some time reading those articles... Is it published in paper, or only online? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 NWMJ is online only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 . We just need to keep articles like Wayne's Pickets Traverse expose out of the AAJ I have been waiting for someone to pipe in with that!!!!!! I feel the same way, It just wasnt an opportunity I could just pass up. Let it be known that they invited me to write it. Thanks Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted April 14, 2005 Author Share Posted April 14, 2005 Yeah sure, Wayne. =;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vwfanatic96 Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 its also funny that there are 4 different covers that were issued and they include one with john long, one with royal robbins, and i can't rember the other one (maybe warren harding), but the forth one has Lauren lee? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 As far as climbing goes, Yosemite and Boulder kick washington's ass. Yes, we have some good climbing up here but show me 3000ft vertical walls of clean granite. Yes, WA has good cragging but Boulder has 10x what we have within 30 min of town. Granted that WA has good alpine but if your talking vertical climbing Yos is THE place in the lower 48. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 totally agreed, tex... but we have LESS tools here than in boulder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 I completely disagree with you guys regarding Boulder. If you ignore the 30’ part which is true only because of the very short timeline, I would argue that within a 60 mile radius of Seattle the granite climbing is by far superior to the granite climbing around Boulder. Add to that the fact that Squamish is far better than Lumpy or the Platte and Seattle maintains its position. True El Dorado/Flat Irons are pretty darn close but after spending most of a summer in Boulder, I can honestly say that I have never desired to go back and climb at either location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 Yes, we have some good climbing up here but show me 3000ft vertical walls of clean granite. Clean granite is for fags. Wayne - hope you know I was just jokin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 Yes, we have some good climbing up here but show me 3000ft vertical walls of clean granite. Clean granite is for fags. You can easily get in 3000' ft a killer basalt in long day at Rocky Butte. Plus you get free porn. Boulder ain't got nothing on Portland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 Yes, we have some good climbing up here but show me 3000ft vertical walls of clean granite. Clean granite is for fags. You can easily get in 3000' ft a killer basalt in long day at Rocky Butte. Plus you get free porn. Boulder ain't got nothing on Portland. are we talking vertical or horizontal?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 I completely disagree with you guys regarding Boulder. If you ignore the 30’ part which is true only because of the very short timeline, I would argue that within a 60 mile radius of Seattle the granite climbing is by far superior to the granite climbing around Boulder. Add to that the fact that Squamish is far better than Lumpy or the Platte and Seattle maintains its position. True El Dorado/Flat Irons are pretty darn close but after spending most of a summer in Boulder, I can honestly say that I have never desired to go back and climb at either location. I lived in Boulder for a few years. I never liked the granite in Boulder Canyon. It wasn't chossy, but it sucked in some way. Lumpy's pretty cool; you do have to get used to flairing cracks. I loved Eldo, but it really isn't that big a place, so it's easy to burn out on it. RMNP has a lot of good granite, and it's basically a high alpine cragging area. The only other place I climbed at a lot was Veedawoo; and that place has some awsome granite cragging. All in all there's good cragging around Boulder, but I would say that Colorado lacks any true alpine climbing; at least by my definition...you should see the things they call glaciers. CO may get an advantage over WA in terms of cragging, but Rudy brought up an excellent point that there are a lot of assholes in Boulder. In fact that negative totally outweighs any advantage they might have in craggs or good cragging weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 I completely disagree with you guys regarding Boulder. If you ignore the 30’ part which is true only because of the very short timeline, I would argue that within a 60 mile radius of Seattle the granite climbing is by far superior to the granite climbing around Boulder. Add to that the fact that Squamish is far better than Lumpy or the Platte and Seattle maintains its position. True El Dorado/Flat Irons are pretty darn close but after spending most of a summer in Boulder, I can honestly say that I have never desired to go back and climb at either location. the only really drawback is of course we have worse weather in the winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 Not recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 15, 2005 Share Posted April 15, 2005 hasn't it been raining for 3-4 weeks now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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