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mattp

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Everything posted by mattp

  1. Three O'Clock Rock

    Hey Off: I climbed one of your routes recently, or part of it anyway. The hardware needs an upgrade. We salute you. One of your anchors needs an upgrade. OK?
  2. chucK has passed away

    I think I can head out by 4, from downtown Seattle, if someone wants to carpool. Will be returning tomorrow night.
  3. chucK has passed away

    Damn. I saw him at Darrington just a month ago. Here he is in Darrington fifteen years ago:
  4. I guess you climbed the Linda Glacier route and descended the Zurbriggen? There were no bolts when I descended the Linda Glacier route. The upper 2000 feet or so was very "interesting."
  5. I'm pretty sure I posted something last year, but Mountaineers Press is reprinting the Cascade Alpine Guide, volume 2 (Steven Pass to Rainy Pass). While they are not ready to rebuild the book there is some room for corrections. Fred has updated Glacier Peak and Forbidden Peak entries to reflect current climbing habits and current concerns at these and some other destinations. We've tried to incorporate current conditions on major approach roads like the Suiattle, the Stehekin, and the White Chuck. Some new routes are added and some information regarding other peaks have been updated. There still may be time to incorporate further corrections but the text is going to "design" this week. Any last minute suggestions?
  6. They released a minor update to the green guide last year but it was not a new edition. What's out are his last publications.
  7. Trip: Darrington - Three O'Clock Rock - 'Till Broad Daylight Date: 8/25/2017 Trip Report: On Friday I was able to replace what I believe are the last few old bolts on The Kone and the 'Till Broad Daylight variant that joins The Kone after the headwall on pitch 5 (pitch 3 for many modern parties). There may still be one old bolt on the traverse leading to the belay for that headwall but, if there is one, it is probably not a big problem.
  8. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    Thank you, Lowell, for maintaining this effort. I tried a link you had for reporting new routes early in this thread and it didn't work out for me - so you may need to update it. Meanwhile, I think I can safely say that all of us northwest climbers thank you for what you do. Really.
  9. The Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) is hosting a night of drinking, raffling, dancing, and general tom foolery at Nectar Lounge with the proceeds benefiting the Washington Climbers Conservation Initiative (WCCI). We have been doing stewardship projects for ten years but, in 2017, we are upping our game. The Access Fund is sending their crew of professional trail builders for ten weeks of trail work at the Gold Bar Boulders, Index, Exit 38, and Tieton River. We will be asking YOU to volunteer. Tomorrow night we are conducting a fundraising event at Nektar Lounge in the Fremont neighborhood of Seattle. All proceeds will be devoted to the WCCI. Please come! $20.00; raffles; beer; live music; fun.
  10. Good times tonight, good music, and a bunch of people are coming home from Fremont with some great swag.
  11. The book is on its way to the printer! (I think.)
  12. Darrington access pass?

    I think Ben's right. If you are going to Exfoliation Dome you'll be parking on the 2060. I've been working to keep parking options open there for 25 years. If you are going to 3:00 Rock you'll be parking on the 2065. In either case, I don't think you need a pass. The roads are only open because of climbers' advocacy. Consider supporting the Washington Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund.
  13. The early start is a good idea, and I don't think atypical of climbers who are successful on that route. In fact, I believe an early start is essential. It is a fairly long climb, route finding can be an issue, and it is not roadside: many parties wander around on the approach hike, which is not on a maintained trail and is pretty long even if you know the way. The route faces southeast. On a sunny day it heats up before you even get started. Cool days or cloudy days where rain is not predicted are preferable.
  14. Thanks, Jason. Fantastic pictures of a fantastic place! (As always.)
  15. Darrington, The Kone, 10-24-15

    That flake above the two old bolts on that pitch rattles when you slap it. It might hold a Fall just fine but it might also fail. Even though it is not the crux of the pitch I hope to replace those old bolts but they were not high priority because, as you note, there is protection there. But maybe no there there.
  16. Anybody wanna go replace a few more this weekend? I think the Saturday forecast looks doable.
  17. A couple of buddies and I went back today and Mark Hanna and I replaced five more rusty 1/4" bolts on that "headwall" pitch on 'Till Broad Daylight, accompanied by Jeff and Tyson. It was amazing as the earlier forecast was for something like a 70% chance of rain but the forecast suddenly looked better yesterday and the rain held off until we were all loaded and driving back down the road. There are still a couple of old bolts up there, but Daylight is looking pretty good. There was fresh chalk on all the knobs up there. Somebody who climbed it yesterday was just a day to early - unless they were looking for the last scary ascent.
  18. My wife and I rented a jeep and camping equipment from a very hospitable outfitter in Moab three years ago. They had a very capable 4x4 and a complete camping setup all ready for us so all we had to do was to buy groceries. Some of the gear was not fully functional so it was not "perfect" but I have no hesitancy in recommending them. We had a great time. I could find their name if you don't already have a good plan.
  19. Trip: Three O'Clock Rock - Big Tree / Shake, Rattle and Roll Date: 8/10/2015 Trip Report: I've been working on an extension of the Big Tree routes for the last two seasons (I call it "Shake, rattle, and roll") and I was up there yesterday. It was, pleasantly, not too hot. There were three or four other parties up there and I think everyone had a good time. Just below the Big Tree, there was a relatively new rappel station with a tri-cam and red webbing. If the person who left the tri-cam wants it back, send me an e-mail or a private message here on cc.com. Many of the routes in Darrington are not intuitive because the climbing is best when avoiding the vegetated cracks and trees which dot the cliffs. Also, on many routes the original climbers did not install many bolts but even though later climbers installed more, the older routes in particular may remain scary. Climbers new to the slab climbing or Darrington should first climb some of the better protected routes before venturing onto the more adventurous. And, if they do, Darrington will help prepare them (you) for the Tetons and the Bugaboos and just about any alpine rock climbing area in the world.
  20. Mary Jane Dihedral questions

    I think I remember a hanging belay that really wasn't very comfortable and there is a better spot to set up below it. Is that the spot?
  21. For an introduction to Darrington, and well-protected climbing, I'd start with Under the Board Walk, at Three O'Clock Rock. It is 5.7 at the start, then easier. It is really a sport climb and it'll give you a feel for the slab climbing. If that is too easy for you, try the first three short pitches of 'till Broad Daylight, just to the right. It is 5.8 and you can keep on climbing via The Kone (5.9) but you'll need to have a topo in your pocket or you may get confused. The Kone has probably twice the bolts it had when originally established, but it is definitely runout by modern standards. It also has a few of the old 1/4 inch bolts, but you can place gear beneath a rattly flake nearby and the climbing there is easiest enough that this is not a big deal. If you are looking for 5.9, or 5.10, I'd recommend Silent Running (5.9) or Total Soul (5.10b or 5.10d). SR has 35 foot runouts on easier terrain, but it is well protected near any hard moves. Total Soul has a runout up to maybe 20 feet but, again, it has pro where you need it. Exfoliation Dome has good climbing, and it is an amazing feature. Jacob's Ladder (5.10b A-0 or 5.11b), Rainman (5.10b), and Dark Rhythm (5.10b) are well protected if you have good trad skills, with DR being the easiest of the three. To the left is Sun Dried Tomatoes (5.12), which I have not climbed. I believe it is sport bolted. Recent reports of scary rock on the West Buttress (5.9) are worrisome, but I have not been up there to check it and it may not be any worse than it has been for many years. The Dome is falling apart, and large flakes are in the process of falling off just as we've seen in Squamish and Yosemite recently. Dreamer (5.9 on Green Giant Butress) is a great climb as well, though the approach is more substantial. Lastly, there are a number of great climbs over on Squire Creek Wall. I'd recommend doing some of the routes in Clear Creek first, though. A PDF guide to climbs in Clear Creek is available here: my Darrington Rock site. This does not have all the climbs in the area but it will get you started. Darrington is very beautiful and, as I frequently tell people, it is a good place to learn about slab climbing that you will find if you venture to Squamish, the Bugaboos, or the Tetons. It is a local gem!
  22. Expanding North Cascades NP

    I believe the recent ban on bolts in the entire Park was a poor idea, KK, and I have been frustrated by some of their administration of the permit restrictions over the years, but I don't think the NPS has done its best to thwart climbers. For example, they improved the trail in Eldorado Creek (or is it Roush Creek) not long ago. I don't support the proposed expansion, but the NPS has not been all bad or even mostly bad in the North Cascades. I think the establishment of the Park has been a PLUS for protection of the wilderness character of this magical wilderness that so many of us cherish.
  23. In 1989 I worked on some research on Mt. Rainier where we took climbers up the Emmons Glacier route, half receiving antacid and half receiving sugar pills. We also did physiological testing on the way up and down. We found no correlation between the use of antacids and wellness, but I believe ours was the first published study to link lung capacity to altitude illness(I think it was peak flow or VO2Max or something. Hornbein was one of the advisors on this project. I'm surprised there was anything left in this fight as late as 1996.
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