thelawgoddess Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 i want a good long one-day adventure that's not too adventurous in the sense that i prefer something with a fairly straightforward approach. nice scenery? big mountains with snow is a plus. semi-"technical" - to 5.6 or so but no raps so i can go ropeless. <3-hour drive to trailhead. any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 You could always do Ingalls S. Ridge. It'd be a fairly simple downclimb off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 NE Ridge of Black Peak Thompson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paco Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 I always enjoy the Sulphide Glacier route on Shuksan. You can do it in about 12-14 hours car-to-car. You get beautiful views of Mt. Baker, some nice glacier travelling, and 500 ft of class 3/4 scrambling at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 Is the Sulphide Glacier route reasonable to do solo this time of year? Thank you for allowing ignorant Oregonian to post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 Thank you for allowing ignorant Oregonian to post. For most things the ignorant is redundant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 I'd second the NE Ridge of Black. That fits the bill perfectly. Really good views into Bridge creek too. Other options: Vesper Peak, North Face Sharkfin Tower Sahale SEWS S. Arete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paco Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 Is the Sulphide Glacier route reasonable to do solo this time of year? Yeah, I think so. The crevasses should be pretty obvious this time of year, and the route takes a pretty straightforward line up the glacier where there are only a few crevasses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 i want a good long one-day adventure that's not too adventurous in the sense that i prefer something with a fairly straightforward approach. nice scenery? big mountains with snow is a plus. semi-"technical" - to 5.6 or so but no raps so i can go ropeless. <3-hour drive to trailhead. any suggestions? ahahahahaha...goin' nutz already, i see!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 10, 2004 Author Share Posted August 10, 2004 ahahahahaha...goin' nutz already, i see!! undoubtedly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 I second Paco's suggestion. I am a big fraidy cat when it comes to glaciers and I would not hesitate to solo the Sulphide again. The views are unbeatable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 west ridge of stuart (long day) east buttress of big snow (nice rock, 5.7) ne ridge of keyes (great area) west ridge of prusik (5.7, downclimb route) sulphide is fine if one sticks to the left hand side of the glacier (climber's left). the only potentially tricky spot is around the shrund below the summit pyramid. although conditions may vary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 make an alpinfox style nude ascent of west ridge north twin sister and post the pix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 W Ridge Forbidden, S Face Torment, Torment Forbidden Traverse, NE Ridge Triumph, Upper N Ridge Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 N. Face route on N. Peak of Index is 5.6. Throw in the Traverse and you can walk off. Better pack a big lunch though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 I just did Vesper a couple of weekends ago. It was really nice. The approach fairly straight forward, a small glacier to get to the base, I didn't need crampons, they do make it easier though, little funky getting on to the rock, fairly mellow once you get on the rock. It is a walk off once you get to the top. Check Nelsons guide for good info on the route and approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 and there's always Mt. Olympus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluck Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 If you do Sulphide on Shuksan, finish up via the Southeast Ridge rather than the Central gully on the pinnacle. This way you get far better scrambling over good rock and don't have to worry about other parties clogging up the gully. You can downclimb the route (4th with may be a couple 5th short moves) or downclimb the gully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 10, 2004 Author Share Posted August 10, 2004 there are some interesting-souding suggestions here. i'm going to have to break out my guidebooks and see what a few of these look like. hey bronco, how long is that north peak route? and is the index traverse the one that goes over to persis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 I didn't see the W Ridge of Forbidden listed. Isn't that a classic one day route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman_Clyde Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 The Chopping Block Just bring your crampons for the bushwack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted August 11, 2004 Share Posted August 11, 2004 The N. Peak on Index is around 1500' of "technical" ground. I think Beckey's route description is the most accurate. Just follow the big nests of tat, my broken ego and old trusty rusty ring angles. The traverse route goes up the N. Face of the N. Peak, over the Middle peak and up to the summit of the Main peak. Descend via the East "walk up" route. I haven't done the traverse route. Collin did it in a day last year, you might shoot him an email. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted August 11, 2004 Share Posted August 11, 2004 Garfield while the road's still open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 11, 2004 Share Posted August 11, 2004 Mount Index is cool if you are enamored with Mount Index (and many of us are, having driven by it and admired it so many times); otherwise I think there are better outings around. The North Face is certainly doable, but I'd want to bring a rappel rope and the first pitch on the Middle Peak, climbing out of the notch from the North, is more than most of us would want to solo. I think it's rated 5.7, but it'll get your attention! The full traverse (North-Middle-Main) is a big outing. (1 1/2 hours driving) The West Ridge of N. Twin is a very enjoyable scramble on excellent rock, with no glacier travel but an alpine feel about it. (four or five miles on logging road for an approach, though). (3 hours driving) The Sulphide on Shuksan is a great suggestion for a mellow glaciated climb that most of us would feel OK about doing without a rope, but there certainly ARE crevasses on the route (I've skied it in the fog in October, though, so they aren't that bad). (3+ hours driving?) Mount Ruth is another mellow glacier climb. (3+ hours driving?) For a mellow rock solo, Ingalls S. Ridge is excellent. (3- hours driving) S. Early Winter Spire via the S. Ridge is a good rock scramble with a single 5.7 move that isn't too scary. (3 hours driving) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGowans Posted August 11, 2004 Share Posted August 11, 2004 Greg, maybe I'm getting my wires crossed, but I seem to recall doing the S. Ridge of Ingalls last year and apart from it being quite long, there was tons of exposure and one 5.7 crux move that I would definitely not like to fall on. Then again, maybe it was the SE Ridge?? Also, where would one downclimb? I rapped off the S. face and I can't imagine downclimbing it. Am I getting my orientation all mixed up here? You could always do Ingalls S. Ridge. It'd be a fairly simple downclimb off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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