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    Software Engineer
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    Portland, OR

jaee's Achievements


Gumby (1/14)



  1. Anybody get on anything today? Headed out tomorrow.
  2. Nice work. I've done the red line a few times. Here's one of them from Radek's blog w/ some nice pics. http://chossclimbers.com/?page_id=9012
  3. Totally agree, big ups to the BD folks. I have blown up and they have replaced: Megamid pole snapped under big snow load. Carbon fiber ski pole snapped when I skied across it during gully thrash. BD Sphynx pack buckles blowed up during big avalanche ride. Bibler Fitzroy pole snaps/straps which have fallen off quite a few times. They stand behind their gear completely and I have always been treated more than fairly.
  4. jaee

    BD Venom

    I have the longest BD Venom ax w/ adze. I've used it as my primary ax since they came out. I have nothing but positive things to say about it. I've used it on everything from slogs to following AI3+ conditions on the DKHW on near vertical ice to leading moderate ice to 60+ deg. It sticks great and self belays well even with the rubber grips. I still have the basic curved pick on it, so the pick is a little hard to get out if you over drive it, but it's been very secure for me.
  5. Yes, Triangle camp is the highest and safest bet.
  6. I typically consider the thin red line the classic Reid Headwall. Start on the cone, cross the bergschrund, traverse to the gully over the weird fin, finish in the left gully and try to thread the rime shroom. You can, as has been said, start anywhere and climb anything in between. Blue line is Leuthold's. The "obvious" rock at the bottom is the biggest clue. But the first time I did Leutholds I did the Reid. This is made more confusing since you can follow the base of the blue, then follow that ramp up to the gullies, since it's lower angle. But the red line is a lot of fun.
  7. US Outdoor in Portland usually has a lot of parts.
  8. jaee

    Gnarl Fire

    It's not so far over from T-line if you go across White River. If you're after tnf you have to drop in by traversing from Tie-In or suck it up and contour around and drop into the Eliot. 3.5 miles or so to Tie-In from Timberline.
  9. Now there's a bad idea. The Skylight uses a roll-down canopy/vestibule setup. So there's no physical barrier between the vestibule and screen/net surface as far as I can see. Wind transported snow will blow into/through any hole. The screens in those tents are not sufficient to stop spindrift. Coming back to camp on summit day to find your tent full of snow would suck. Plus those would be some cold mofos in the wind. Single walls are bad enough.
  10. hey, sometimes someone skis S. Sister. We know how to mix it up down here.
  11. If I was going to replace those bolts I'd do it in the summer via the South Chamber. Pretty solid, mid 5th, & direct, other than the summit ridge which is fun when bare. A bit of a slog getting over there and the ZigZag glacier can be icy.
  12. Of course, if you know all about it then you know it was WCR. Unless the disaster you refer to is any given sunny Saturday or Sunday in May....
  13. I try to get in there the 1st or 2nd weekend in Oct. After that it's an even bet that it'll be raining. If it's not raining it's awesome in there that time of year. Cold at night so no bugs and there are usually less people then as well. I've done a few weekends in there hitting Old Snowy, traversing the McCall gl to Ives, then tagging Curtis Gilbert the next day.
  14. The east face of Crater Rock is the hairiest part of the climb. That's just as you enter the Devils Kitchen area. I believe the elevation is around 10200. The route runs right up against Crater Rock on the left and the snow is frequently deposited deeply on a 35° slope just above the route. The crazy thing about the Crater Rock/Chute area is the loading can vary drastically during the course of the day, since the wind shifts around in there depending on the prevailing winds on the mountain. So the east facing slopes and SW facing chute can be totally loaded or bomber depending on the recent precip and wind patterns. There are really no safe routes right after a decent storm. You can probably sneak over the south shoulder of Crater rock if you have to, but it's best to let it settle after a big dump. Now, if it's a small dump on a solid base then take your skis.
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