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Anybody get on anything today? Headed out tomorrow.

Nice work. I've done the red line a few times. Here's one of them from Radek's blog w/ some nice pics. http://chossclimbers.com/?page_id=9012

Totally agree, big ups to the BD folks. I have blown up and they have replaced: Megamid pole snapped under big snow load. Carbon fiber ski pole snapped when I skied across it during gully thrash. BD Sphynx pack buckles blowed up during big avalanche ride. Bibler Fitzroy pole snaps/straps which have fallen off quite a few times. They stand behind their gear completely and I have always been treated more than fairly.

I have the longest BD Venom ax w/ adze. I've used it as my primary ax since they came out. I have nothing but positive things to say about it. I've used it on everything from slogs to following AI3+ conditions on the DKHW on near vertical ice to leading moderate ice to 60+ deg. It sticks great and self belays well even with the rubber grips. I still have the basic curved pick on it, so the pick is a little hard to get out if you over drive it, but it's been very secure for me.

Yes, Triangle camp is the highest and safest bet.

Call the Mazamas 503.227.2345.

I typically consider the thin red line the classic Reid Headwall. Start on the cone, cross the bergschrund, traverse to the gully over the weird fin, finish in the left gully and try to thread the rime shroom. You can, as has been said, start anywhere and climb anything in between. Blue line is Leuthold's. The "obvious" rock at the bottom is the biggest clue. But the first time I did Leutholds I did the Reid. This is made more confusing since you can follow the base of the blue, then follow that ramp up to the gullies, since it's lower angle. But the red line is a lot of fun.

US Outdoor in Portland usually has a lot of parts.

It's not so far over from T-line if you go across White River. If you're after tnf you have to drop in by traversing from Tie-In or suck it up and contour around and drop into the Eliot. 3.5 miles or so to Tie-In from Timberline.

Now there's a bad idea. The Skylight uses a roll-down canopy/vestibule setup. So there's no physical barrier between the vestibule and screen/net surface as far as I can see. Wind transported snow will blow into/through any hole. The screens in those tents are not sufficient to stop spindrift. Coming back to camp on summit day to find your tent full of snow would suck. Plus those would be some cold mofos in the wind. Single walls are bad enough.

hey, sometimes someone skis S. Sister. We know how to mix it up down here.

If I was going to replace those bolts I'd do it in the summer via the South Chamber. Pretty solid, mid 5th, & direct, other than the summit ridge which is fun when bare. A bit of a slog getting over there and the ZigZag glacier can be icy.

Of course, if you know all about it then you know it was WCR. Unless the disaster you refer to is any given sunny Saturday or Sunday in May....

I try to get in there the 1st or 2nd weekend in Oct. After that it's an even bet that it'll be raining. If it's not raining it's awesome in there that time of year. Cold at night so no bugs and there are usually less people then as well. I've done a few weekends in there hitting Old Snowy, traversing the McCall gl to Ives, then tagging Curtis Gilbert the next day.

The east face of Crater Rock is the hairiest part of the climb. That's just as you enter the Devils Kitchen area. I believe the elevation is around 10200. The route runs right up against Crater Rock on the left and the snow is frequently deposited deeply on a 35° slope just above the route. The crazy thing about the Crater Rock/Chute area is the loading can vary drastically during the course of the day, since the wind shifts around in there depending on the prevailing winds on the mountain. So the east facing slopes and SW facing chute can be totally loaded or bomber depending on the recent precip and wind patterns. There are really no safe routes right after a decent storm. You can probably sneak over the south shoulder of Crater rock if you have to, but it's best to let it settle after a big dump. Now, if it's a small dump on a solid base then take your skis.

Put your money where your mouth is. Say there's 14 million abortions worldwide each year. http://www.johnstonsarchive.net/policy/abortion/wrjp338sd.html Say there's 6 billion people, give or take. Say 40% are fit for parenting. That's 2.4 billion. Now we abolish abortion, worldwide. Let's just do the right thing and make sure that those babies get homes and place those children with people making more than poverty level income. I'm betting more than 50% of the adults of the world live below the poverty line. So I'll reduce that 2.4 to 1.2 billion. So social services now has a 1% chance every year of showing up at your door with an Ethiopian or Iraqi or Tlingit child. Here you go, Mr. KKK. We've decided to abolish abortion and the only way we can keep up with the supply is to draft parents for these children. Have a happy life. We'll be checking back weekly to see how it is going. Is that OK with you?

Sure. How about $400.

Marylou I plan to get the plate out. I have to research the screw a bit more. The orthopedist I liked the best when I was recovering said that the screw will keep the fibula from rotating in the future. He said he's had two cases where the screw was taken out and the fibula just spun back out of the sloppy old ankle joint. Scary.

I have a screw in the left ankle from a spiral fracture of the fibula. From time to time this screw binds and causes a pretty severe shooting pain, but it's infrequent. I have a plate in the upper half of the right tibia w/ 7 screws. Other than being uncomfortable kneeling I notice it during fast descents with a pack. It gets sore and my guess is the plate flexes differently than the bone when pounding on it. It was 12 weeks before I was back on my feet without crutches. After that it took a few months of PT and focused exercises before everything was working fine. So total, 6 months to get back to my previous capabilities. You could probably cut that down by 6 weeks or so if you hit it hard as soon as you can. You might be able to shorten that some more if you do everything you can while you're healing, such as work on range of motion in the injured leg and exercising the uninjured leg.

the answer is here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=1&Number=710507&Searchpage=1&Main=53233&Words=&topic=1&Search=true#Post710507

The answer is here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=25&Number=710506&Searchpage=1&Main=53232&Words=&topic=1&Search=true#Post710506

You could also pick up a few wands and tie them together with wire. Those are really light and cheap. If you don't want to buy bamboo for wands you can pick up sticks on the approach or drive in to climb. Just knot the rope to these from time to time. If you don't want to carry sticks you could just tie a rock into your rope and bury that once in a while. You can also just use the rope from Fred Meyer, I hear the polypropylene is really cheap and holds up to 400 pounds in 3/8. You weigh less than 400 pounds, so that's plenty strong. Plus the bright yellow shows up well in snow and doesn't soak up water like that crazy nylon.

Yep, Clinton sucked. Greatest period of economic growth. Budget surplus. No war. Yep, those were bad times....

I'll put in a plug for climbing Illumination rock as a summer alternate. S. Chamber route is easy 5th class with some decent rock mixed in with the choss. The summit ridge traverse is pretty exciting.

Don't forget the Mazamas library. The Annual published every year has a list of all the climbs as well as articles about major expeditions, climbs, and outings of the year. Vera DeFoe is a living legend in the Mazamas. She runs the museum. She's in her 80s and just recently stopped leading climbs. She has been active in the Mazamas most of her adult life, so she would have first hand experience. Jeff Thomas has a lot of notes on the history of climbing around Oregon. All of the folks could probably be contacted via the Mazamas office.