Alpinfox Posted August 10, 2003 Posted August 10, 2003 What are ya'll's favorite hand cracks. I'm sure those of you who have been to Zion or Indian Creek or that sort of shizzle have a big fat list (and please share), but I'm more interested in PNW stuff. Please list: route name, grade, crag name Outer Space (last 2 pitches), 5.9, SCW Toxic Shock (upper half), 5.8?, Index Quote
Bob_Clarke Posted August 10, 2003 Posted August 10, 2003 Le Piller de touche (Split Piller) - Squamish..........10b Quote
Retrosaurus Posted August 10, 2003 Posted August 10, 2003 Thrutch Too Much --Autumn Crag, 5.11? Awaiting a second ascent. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 10, 2003 Author Posted August 10, 2003 Retrosaurus said: Thrutch Too Much --Autumn Crag, 5.11? Awaiting a second ascent. Forgive my ignorance... Where is this? Quote
Uncle_Tricky Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 --Klahanie Crack at Squish, 5.7 (perfect to introduce someone to crack climbing) --Karate Crack, Smith, 10a --Dodd's jam, Beacon, 10+ --Heart of the Country, 2nd pitch Davis Holland, Breakfast, Libra to slab crack at index all 10a --Last pitch W face NEWS 10a (starts fingers and widens to perfect hands, nice position!) --shield pitch on minuteman at Washington pass, 5.8 --about 400 feet total of sweet 5.8 hand cracks on W face Silver star, also last pitch of 10a hands Quote
texplorer Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 Cruel Sister, .10a, Smith Easter Overhang, .10c?, Midnight Rock Blownout, .10b, Beacon Rock final pitch of Stanley/Burgner Route, .9+, Prussik Peak Supercrack, .12, Midnight Rock Free For All, .8, Beacon Rock Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 Alpinfox said: Retrosaurus said: Thrutch Too Much --Autumn Crag, 5.11? Awaiting a second ascent. Forgive my ignorance... Where is this? this climb is in the okanagan region of washington... currently, access to these crags is (i believe) closed or seriously threatened... worthyhands= BOBs 6th crack 5.8+ short but sweet (icicle) george&martha 10a (disVantage) Quote
jordop Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 Some good cracks here Somebody go repeat this! Quote
Sol Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 where is that, whoa looks good. Classic crack 5.8+ Icicle creek, leavenworth. Slot machine 5.8 Bulletheads, Squamish Breakfast of Champions 5.10 Index Quote
whirlwind Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 first and sec pitches of sons of yesterday, yos 5.9 reeds pinicle ( i think?) although not paralel, just about every move there was rad hand jams, 5.9 yos Quote
Dru Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 penny lane cat crack blazing saddles all of st vitus dance but the wide parts last pitch of calculus crack cardhu crack all squamish right side of the pillier du cowboy boot at trundle dome,. l'worth Quote
matt_warfield Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 5.7 Klahanie Crack, Squish 5.8 Classic Crack, Leavenworth 5.9 Classic Crack ('cause it's so good but also a little sandbaggy at 5.8 ) 5.10a Karate Crack, Smiff 5.10b Split Pillar, Squish The Pillar is definitely one of the best crack pitches anywhere! Quote
Dru Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 octopus garden in the shade, smoke bluffs is almost all hands there's a short section that is a bit wider. Quote
DCramer Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 Hmm I wanna add Thin Fingers to the list but can’t convince myself that it qualifies. Perspective at Squamish. Steep well protected .11a. Does anyone really climb the Right Side as a hand crack? Pumpline (.11b) in the Icicle is thin at the bottom but thin hands at the crux. Fun climb and easy to set a TR on. ***Warning:Short TRs ahead*** Clash City (.11) and Train In Vain (.12) at Snoqualmie Pass. Anne with an E (.11+) is a five minute walk up the hill and is a great flared hand (maybe finger crack) Since Smith is in why hasn’t anyone mentioned Shoes (.11b)? Quote
erik Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 come on darrel how many people you know who have climbed shoes?? Quote
texplorer Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 Um, moonshine has about 3 jams on it. In my book- not a hand crack. Quote
sk Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 texplorer said: Um, moonshine has about 3 jams on it. In my book- not a hand crack. true true, but cruel sister is Quote
DCramer Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 (edited) Erik – I can think of seven without giving it much effort. The Big Tree route at Three O’Clock Rock also has some good jamming. What I am finding surprising is how few stand out HCs I can think of in the NW. I keep thinking of TCs. It is also surprising is how people view the same climb differently. For example, Moonshine dihedral in this thread or Sunshine Dihedral in another crack thread. I do not remember Sunshine as being much of a crack climb at all. Two climbs 100’ feet apart and four different memories. EDIT: The Great Northern Slab handcrack! (5.6) Edited August 11, 2003 by DCramer Quote
wscottf Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 DCramer said: Hmm I wanna add Thin Fingers to the list but can’t convince myself that it qualifies. Well, the first half of it qualifies. Quote
erik Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 you mean the 2nd part is the hand crack, the lower is finger locks.... Quote
Alex Posted August 11, 2003 Posted August 11, 2003 (edited) wscottf said: DCramer said: Hmm I wanna add Thin Fingers to the list but can’t convince myself that it qualifies. Well, the first half of it qualifies. Agreed. Thin Fingers, stellar ! Heart of Country p3 (10a), ditto! Karate Crack at Smith I really like p2 on Givlers actually, its about the same quality as the last 2 p of SCW without the BS approach pitches some of Bo Derek Toxic Shock, fuckin' sweet! p1 of Canary on Castle has some really nice hand size jamming Japanese Gardens, p1 has some great hand...to bad its so short! p3 DEB South Early Winters Spire has some awesome moves and is really long first 2/3 of p6 of Stanley Burgner on Prussik is just great! Edited August 11, 2003 by Alex Quote
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