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Let's Talk Hand Cracks!


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What are ya'll's favorite hand cracks. I'm sure those of you who have been to Zion or Indian Creek or that sort of shizzle have a big fat list (and please share), but I'm more interested in PNW stuff.


Please list: route name, grade, crag name


Outer Space (last 2 pitches), 5.9, SCW

Toxic Shock (upper half), 5.8?, Index

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--Klahanie Crack at Squish, 5.7 (perfect to introduce someone to crack climbing)

--Karate Crack, Smith, 10a

--Dodd's jam, Beacon, 10+

--Heart of the Country, 2nd pitch Davis Holland, Breakfast, Libra to slab crack at index all 10a

--Last pitch W face NEWS 10a (starts fingers and widens to perfect hands, nice position!)

--shield pitch on minuteman at Washington pass, 5.8

--about 400 feet total of sweet 5.8 hand cracks on W face Silver star, also last pitch of 10a hands


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Alpinfox said:

Retrosaurus said:

Thrutch Too Much --Autumn Crag, 5.11? Awaiting a second ascent.

Forgive my ignorance... Where is this?

this climb is in the okanagan region of washington...

currently, access to these crags is (i believe) closed or seriously threatened...


BOBs 6th crack 5.8+ short but sweet (icicle)

george&martha 10a (disVantage)


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Hmm I wanna add Thin Fingers to the list but can’t convince myself that it qualifies.


Perspective at Squamish. Steep well protected .11a. Does anyone really climb the Right Side as a hand crack?


Pumpline (.11b) in the Icicle is thin at the bottom but thin hands at the crux. Fun climb and easy to set a TR on.



***Warning:Short TRs ahead***

Clash City (.11) and Train In Vain (.12) at Snoqualmie Pass. Anne with an E (.11+) is a five minute walk up the hill and is a great flared hand (maybe finger crack)


Since Smith is in why hasn’t anyone mentioned Shoes (.11b)?


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Erik –


I can think of seven without giving it much effort.


The Big Tree route at Three O’Clock Rock also has some good jamming. What I am finding surprising is how few stand out HCs I can think of in the NW. I keep thinking of TCs.


It is also surprising is how people view the same climb differently. For example, Moonshine dihedral in this thread or Sunshine Dihedral in another crack thread. I do not remember Sunshine as being much of a crack climb at all. Two climbs 100’ feet apart and four different memories.


EDIT: The Great Northern Slab handcrack! (5.6)


Edited by DCramer
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wscottf said:

DCramer said:

Hmm I wanna add Thin Fingers to the list but can’t convince myself that it qualifies.

Well, the first half of it qualifies.




Thin Fingers, stellar !

Heart of Country p3 (10a), ditto!

Karate Crack at Smith

I really like p2 on Givlers actually, its about the same quality as the last 2 p of SCW without the BS approach pitches

some of Bo Derek

Toxic Shock, fuckin' sweet!

p1 of Canary on Castle has some really nice hand size jamming

Japanese Gardens, p1 has some great hand...to bad its so short!

p3 DEB South Early Winters Spire has some awesome moves and is really long

first 2/3 of p6 of Stanley Burgner on Prussik is just great!

Edited by Alex
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