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jefffski

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Everything posted by jefffski

  1. Whistler, here they come. See their progress streaming at http://share.delorme.com/194440ba2c0e43b7bdcd80bd4726dfdf#
  2. More good news--they are getting closer to Cheakamus. Read more and see Google Earth images of their progress to date and plans for tomorrow at their blog at http://traversethecoast.wordpress.com/
  3. They're moving again. The blog has details and maps showing their location.
  4. The team is suffering the vagaries of weather. Read more at the blog.
  5. They are above the Stave Glacier waiting for the weather to clear. The blog has a photo of the map or you can see it here: https://share.delorme.com/194440ba2c0e43b7bdcd80bd4726dfdf#
  6. Traverse the coast has just posted a story from Ryan's GF about their trip planning process. I didn't know this, but she'll be joining them for about six weeks.
  7. They're on the way to Whistler. Check out their progress on their Inreach map at Traverse the Coast.
  8. Michael Burmeister, Erica Madison and Ryan Bougie are on a journey on skis and pack rafts from Vancouver, BC to Skagway, Alaska, starting in February 2013. They are looking for open source scientific projects including animal observation, snow and avalanche observations, geo tagging or anything else you might suggest for them. They are equipped with iphones and a 2 way satellite messenger.They plan to complete the journey sometime in July. You can read their blog posts here: Traverse the Coast
  9. Where did you read/learn that he was last on the rope? The article says that the person who tripped was the last person on the rope. Is it SOP for guides to put three inexperienced climbers on the same rope? I do not want to pass judgment, but is there a lesson we can learn from this tragedy? Perhaps a new thread is warranted for that discussion. Condolences to the family and friends.
  10. hi, i've had a stab at a rewrite. The homepage was so confusing. Keep things simple. Make it easy for me to navigate. I had no idea that the yellow highlights were the same as the tabs. This should clear things up. the rest of the site looks ok. white on dark is ok, but you might consider a larger font or a serif font to make it even easier to read. you also might consider adding a page for links only good blog! Western Colorado Climbing Welcome to the online resource for rock and ice climbing on the Western Slope of Colorado. Beta: Get information about local climbing areas and photos from the local crags Blog: Read the latest news, trip reports and general ranting Talk: Share your latest climbing epic, find a partner and more Reviews: Read all the latest gear reviews. Photos: Check out the latest photos or add your own. Resources: Find where to eat, buy gear, shop, camp. Also has links to other sites. The page is updated regularly, so be sure to check back often.
  11. i got this link with some new route info, incl windham hell 5.13b. http://www12.digimktg.com/woo/PDFArticles/VG-MiddleEastDungeon.pdf but i can't find yoder's new guidebook. does anybody have it that can answer my other questions?
  12. i'm writing an article on vantage and need some info re routes at vantage--my guidebook is hopelessly out-of-date. 1.how many routes are there now? 2.what is the proportion of trad to sport routes 3.what are the relative proportions of easy,medium and hard routes--best guess is fine) (5.11+, 5.9-5.10d, under 5.9) 4.what is the hardest route--trad or sport. thanks.
  13. rivetting http://revver.com/video/310519/a-dozen-more-turns/ be safe
  14. i have been on the bravo glacier and the area is very dangerous. sad story: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elfrida_Pigou http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1323 rip
  15. thank you for that info fern. i remember that incident. i believe she was sitting eating lunch and was away from the climb. as for karen's math, the start may determine how hard the climb is. from the ground--in the gully, i believe the crack may be as hard as 10b. standing on the top of the gully wall makes the first moves easier. the traverse is harder than 5.9, imho. the first time i did it, i walked the hand traverse. almost pooped my pants. much easier and safer as a hand traverse. fun climb. well worth having a few big pieces for the layback.
  16. aside from the roadside crag in la paz, i was at laguna negra, at 5,000m. there was a very long wall with tons of potential. too bad for us it was snowing so we opted out. i'm sure these would all be FA's. getting there is half the fun. if you want to know more send me a pm.
  17. i'm driving to whistler from vancouver for some skiing tomorrow, saturday, and returning in the afternoon. looking to share gas. tel 778-846-2546
  18. sorry i didn't include her. i guess one could consider chek as squamish. while 4 is a small number, and each one is tragic, there have been many, many close calls.
  19. there have been only 4 deaths in squamish, but many close calls. the deaths were as follows: one while jugging; one while being lowered; one had a narcoleptic attack and fell as he hiked along an exposed ledge; and one while climbing neat and cool. that's it.
  20. the backside approach is cheaper too--parking is free. the hike in is shorter-7 hours but pretty hard.
  21. solo up, rap some sections down. you may need crampons to cross to the base in the am. the rock bands go at 5.6. if you need to lead these bring large nuts and alpine draws. beware, the rest is a pile of choss.
  22. the rcmp does patrol all the squamish parking lots daily. they know the perps,just need to catch them in the act. i recommend parking in the climbers campground lot. much busier.
  23. nice campground at the base ofthe chief. share a $9cdn campsite. enjoy
  24. I am an experienced and safe trad climber (5.10), looking for a patner for this weekend and throughout July in Squamish. pm if interested
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