DPS

How about a 70 lb pack? After a few weeks weight obviously goes down due to consumption of food/fuel, but packs are still mighty big.

I've done a number of AK range trips, all on skis, including Denali. If I were to do Denali again (I won't as I intentionally sold all my Alaska kit to prevent it) I would go with snow shoes. We ditched our skis after day 2 at 11K...too icy above to use them. Skiing down hill with a AK size pack and sled is ridiculous. Would love to hear how skiers manage the pack and sled on the way down. Carry two sets of boots, ski and climbing boots? Climb in ski boots?

I am at the point in my climbing career where I get as much satisfaction bringing up the next generation as I do chasing those climbs I never got around to doing. I'm recovering from some health problems, but when I get back on the horse I will be looking for partners. Send me an email if interested: Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com.

Smith Rock, Just Do It, 5.14c. Couldn't even pull the first move.

The Bugaboos are a great destination for alpine cragging, but if your primary goal is to get time on glaciers there are better choices. The Cascades are the most heavily glaciated range in the contiguous US so they are a natural choice. Mt Baker and Mt Rainer will have the largest and most easily accessible glaciers. Other thoughts are the Boston (North side of Forbidden), Inspiration (Eldorado), Curtis and Suphide (Shuksan). Index Town Walls and Leavenworth areas have great granite cragging. The Stuart Range and Enchantments have great alpine rock routes on the same white grandiorite batholith as Index and Leavenworth. July has the hottest weather, glaciers will still be in reasonable conditions, and alpine rock routes will be a go.

A better quality is to just do what I tell you to.

You probably shouldn't climb with us then.

I agree, my thought was that ice and winter alpine climbing on smaller objectives prepares one for bigger and technically easier summer alpine routes. The first time I climbed Mt. Rainier, I climbed it via Liberty Ridge. I thought to myself as I climbed it that it was not nearly as difficult as I had built it up to be, but I was very happy I had climbed routes over the winter like North Face of Chair Peak as well as waterfall routes. It made climbing exposed 55 degree terrain easy by comparison. Also, the climbers I had in mind to introduce him to included you. I'm getting close to be able to get into the hills. Soon.

This is a good approach, one that I use. in Dan Cauthorn's words, "You top rope 5.12 in the gym so you can climb 5.10 at the crags so you can climb 5.8 in the mountains." I too live in Issaquah and have a couple of partners in Issaquah with whom I typically climb with, but I am always open to meeting new people. I can also make some introductions to local climbers who have similar aspirations and a bit more experience. If you are interested feel free to email me at Daniel DASH p DASH smith AT Hotmail DOT com. I am not climbing at the moment, recovering from an illness, but hopefully I will get back at this spring. Welcome to the PNW.

Shit, I literally just bought a pair of these yesterday.

Yes. When I was very keen on winter climbing up Cascade River Road I brought chains, a chainsaw, a come-a-long, etc. Not getting back in there would not be terrible, getting stuck 18 miles in would ruin your day.

One of the most important things I learned about climbing in the Cascades is to not have an objective in mind and then force it to fit the time frame you have. Look at your time frame and find out what is good to climb at that time. May is volcano season, so look at Rainier, Baker, Adams, etc.

I have to agree with Buckaroo, the approach to Chair Peak is very avalanche prone so it is wise to let things settle down. I am not convinced, however, that the conditions on NY Gully are a good predictor of Chair Peak conditions. But definitely allow enough time for the snow conditions consolidate. Like Buckaroo said, if the NF is not in shape, the NE Buttress is an option and is climbable in a variety of conditions. It is actually very well featured and enjoyable as a mixed climb.

I have a Patagonia Alpinist 25, never used, still has tags. Retail is $99.000, I would let it go for $55.00. May be a bit small for what you want, but if you are interested email me at Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com

Sierra Trading Post is my go to place for discount gear. Check out these. Some are not popular brands in the US, but are all well built and would suit your purposes well. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/aku-montagnard-gore-tex-hiking-boots-waterproof-insulated-for-men~p~7364x/?filterString=mens-mountaineering-boots~d~305%2F&colorFamily=01 http://www.sierratradingpost.com/zamberlan-dru-gore-tex-rr-mountaineering-boots-waterproof-for-men~p~9947g/?filterString=mens-mountaineering-boots~d~305%2F&colorFamily=01 http://www.sierratradingpost.com/kayland-super-ice-pro-hiking-boots-waterproof-insulated-ce-certified-for-men~p~9396j/?filterString=mens-mountaineering-boots~d~305%2F&colorFamily=01 http://www.sierratradingpost.com/scarpa-triolet-gore-tex-mountaineering-boots-waterproof-for-men-and-women~p~9685p/?filterString=mens-mountaineering-boots~d~305%2F&colorFamily=01 http://www.sierratradingpost.com/asolo-aconcagua-gore-tex-mountaineering-boots-waterproof-for-men~p~9051f/?filterString=mens-mountaineering-boots~d~305%2F&colorFamily=01

The NE Couloir/upper snow field on Argonaut that Daniel Helmstadter skied in 2009 was skied by Ryan Laurie in February 2004 or 2005.

Call your air taxi and ask them about sled availability. If there is not a stash at the Mountain House, I'm sure they could scrounge some up for you. FWIW, I found dragging sleds up and down the Ruth Gorge to be pretty straight forward, easier than on the West Buttrash of Denali. You really don't need anything fancier than the free kiddie sleds the air taxis supply.

We grabbed a couple that were in a pile in the hangar in Talkeetna. I don't recall seeing a stash at the Mountain House like there is at KIA.

Another thought, you did not mention where you live, but if you are in the Seattle area a trip to Second Ascent would might be in order. Big packs have largely fallen out of favor for most climbers, but can be had for cheap. I've seen big Dana Designs, Arc'Teryx Boras, Gregorgys there. With the money you save on your big load hauler, you can buy a second, smaller pack that is more appropriate for Rainier and other climbing trips.

Cost of climbing in the AK range has doubled since I first started climb there. I recently sold my entire AK kit figuring I'd spent enough time and money getting snowed on. If I ever do a 'big' trip, it will be to the Andes, not anymore expensive by my calculations.

I agree with Alex, my 'big' pack is 45 liters and plenty big for Rainier. My expedition pack which I only use for Alaskan objectives and week long alpine climbing trips in the winter like technical north side routes on Rainier is about 70 liters. I get the whole family pack mule thing though and I would suggest given modern gear that 70 liters is plenty big. The CCW Chaos is a great alpine climbing pack, but is frameless so if you want to carry more than 35-40 pounds I would recommend something else. I would look hard a McHale packs. They are not cheap but will fit better, carry better, and climb better than anything else on the market and are so durable you can be buried in it. Every pack is custom so you can get him to build a SARC or Super Sarc (70-80 liters) using techy ultra light materials with no extra pockets, a smaller hip belt, etc. and end up with a pack that carries heavy loads very well, yet still climbing technical ground very well. Boeing engineers seem to love these packs, probably because they are so over built. Another thought is the Crux 70 liter. If I were in the market for an expedition sized pack I would seriously consider that one.

I am selling a lightly used pair of Petzl Quark ice tools, one hammer, one adze. These are the current generation and have been used for one season for fewer than 6 pitches. The tools are in excellent condition with little cosmetic damage. The picks have been filed once. Current full retail price is $518.00 for the pair. I am asking $375.00 or $425.00 with the optional head weights, which are $70.00 retail. If interested, please EMAIL Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com. I am located in Issaquah and not mobile at the moment. I am willing to ship, buyer pays shipping and 3% PayPal fees.

In the past prices to KIA and the Ruth Gorge were all priced the same across the air taxis, but TAT will fly to places the others won't and you get to use their guest house, so TAT has always been my choice.

Hello, I am selling a lightly used pair of Petzl Quark ice tools, one hammer, one adze. These are the current generation and have been used for one season for fewer than 6 pitches. The tools are in excellent condition with little cosmetic damage. The picks have been filed once. Current full retail price is $518.00 for the pair. I am asking $375.00 or $425.00 with the optional head weights, which are $70.00 retail. If interested, please EMAIL Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com. I am located in Issaquah and not mobile at the moment. I am willing to ship, buyer pays shipping and 3% PayPal fees.

FWIW, I have a pair and can confirm they are a wonderful all mountain boot. Not as big and stiff as LS Nepal or Scarpa Montblanc, but plenty of boot for ice climbing and steep alpine climbing. My feet were never cold.