DPS

Having had to make the climb up to the Root Canal from the Ruth Glacier, I had assumed aircraft as large as a Turbo Otter could land and take off from the Root Canal glacier. I had assumed only Super Cubs could stick that landing.

I concur with JasonG. I have the LS Boulder X and have had previous versions of the Boulder. They seem to offer the best balance of hiking support and comfort vs. climbing performance. I also agree about his comment about boots. Doing a climb up and over Stuart in approach shoes, my ankles got mighty beat up from the scree on the descent. I have a pair of Scarpa Charmoz (very similar to LS Trangos) and find them very fine for summer alpine climbing in the North Cascades on peaks like Forbidden/Triumph/Shuksan and would do very well in the Bugs. They rock climb almost as well as my approach shoes, provide more protection for my ankles and climb steep ice surprisingly well. Bulkier if you have to wear rock shoes and carry them in the pack but still acceptably light.

I have a pair of Aztars with leashes, new picks, and a spare set of professionally sharpened (http://anicescew.com) picks. How much are you looking to pay? Also, did you see the BD Venoms on sale for $200 for the pair? :http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1148181/Re_Yard_Sale_Ice_Aid_Harnesses#Post1148181 If you don't have your mind set on Aztars these would be a good deal.

I've read some good beta on all these routes here on CascadeClimbers in the form of trip reports. Some reports are quite detailed and have annotated topos. Also, both the route finding and climbing on both LR and RR are much more straight forward than on Curtis Ridge. Kind of in different leagues. Looks like an early opening of May 16 is expected for the White River road, which bodes well for both Curtis Ridge and Liberty Ridge. Dan

Try Colin Haley https://www.facebook.com/alpinistcolinhaley/?fref=ts or Mark Westman https://www.facebook.com/mark.westman1?fref=ts. Sorry, I don't have their current email addresses any more. You could try the Talkeetna Ranger station for Mark, he is a ranger there now, I think.

Just read their description, that sounds right. Cool! Looks like it's in much better condition now than when they did their FA! I seem to recall one belay of their's that consisted of a V-thread in frozen turf backed up with an ice tool planted in said frozen turf.

I believe this was climbed around 10 years or so ago by Paco (Eric Sweet) and partner. They named it 'Satan's Sidewalk'. Or it could be a different formation.

The one piece of kit I always bring and wear no matter the season is a lightly insulated wind shirt. In my case a Marmot DriClime, which can be found for around $60 on SierraTradingPost.com http://www.sierratradingpost.com/s~marmot-driclime-windshirt/sizefamily~general!l/. Extremely versatile, works as an outer layer in mild conditions, sheds light precipitation, layers very nicely in cold conditions.

DAS is way overkill for summer, I use a similar jacket (WT Belay Jacket) in Alaska and on Rainier in winter. Down will work, particularly if you plan on using it in the summer only. I have a Patagonia Micropuff hooded jacket (100 gram Primaloft) that I am looking to off load. The jacket has seen better days but is still serviceable. The elbows have been worn threadbare but have been taped with matching nylon rip stop tape. It is a size medium and is cut generously to fit over all layers. I am willing to sell it pretty cheaply. Email if interested: Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com.

What Gene said, plus a lightweight, hooded synthetic belay jacket. For summers I use a 60 gram Primaloft jacket (Patagonia Nanopuff).

Hey, how about that Skechty Dan guy. He has skied to Muir in 90 minutes and would like to do something like a Tahoma Glacier to Muir carry over.

The gulley in the middle of the south face of the pyramid will likely be mostly snow. If you want set some belays or running protection you may want pro. The ridges on the pyramid are low 5th, so you may want pro if you plan on doing one of those. The Chimney's themselves should not require rock pro, but I have seen some parties belay one or two short spots.

In January or 2000, Nick Strait and myself attempted Gib Ledges. We ran into Loren and Sarah on the approach. We all stayed in the Muir shelter along with two Euros, both of whom spoke very loudly about the many 8,000 meter peaks they had climbed. The next day we started at about 3 AM, crossed Gib Ledges without incident and started the long hike to the summit crater. At about 13k, I fell into a crevasse. By the time I prussiked out, the weather had turned foul. Nick and I called it and headed down, running into Loren and Sarah, who turned around as well. Shortly, the four of us ran into the Euros on their way up. We told them it was a very bad idea to head up into a storm. They ignored the advice and ended up spending something like 5 days pinned down in the summit crater. I heard that once on the summit, they call the rangers with their radio and asked for a helo ride off the summit. I think that even very experienced climbers who have not climbing in the PNW underestimate the storms in this area.

I met Keith in 1997, shortly after reading Dude Boys in Rock and Ice when he was working at High Mountain Rendezvous. He asked how I had so much free time to climb and I told him I was working as a carpenter for the family business. He asked if I could hook his friend up for a job, so I did, and ended up working with LW for some time.

I do not have any recent beta to pass along, but I have climbed and descended Gib Ledges three times, January, March, and fist week of April. In the winter months descending Gib Ledges was fine, descending it first week of April we experienced significant rock fall. I personally would not be on the Ledges during the middle of the day this time of year. Descending via ID or DC would be safer from rock/ice fall.

https://www.facebook.com/keith.johnson.7140?fref=pb&hc_location=friends_tab&pnref=friends.all

I stopped building anchors this way.

This would work well where you have two solid anchors (bolts, good screws) but the Quad has the advantage of being able to equalize three or more pieces while remaining self equalizing.

I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, which seems like it is easy to construct, self equalizing, and plenty strong. http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/climbing-anchors-and-the-evolution-of-the-quad. I assume folks are using standard 7mm perlon or 5.5 mm Maxim Tech cord. What does the cc.com brain trust think about using a thin (7.6 mm) triple rated rope? The inherent stretch could be advantageous or it could be a problem with wear. Thinking about buying the 20 meter version of this and cutting down for a quad anchor https://shop.epictv.com/en/ropes/camp/isotop-76mm-dry?sku=CAM15_ROPISO_RED20. Thoughts? Downsides?

I will have to keep this trick in mind. I already have the rat tail file for ice screws.

Good points Gene. This one time I was descending off of a winter ascent. We had rapped into a gulley and were down climbing with two tools. I had rapped second so I pulled, coiled, and stashed the rope. My partner was at the bottom encouraging me to hurry because he was cold. So, while down climbing with two tools, I hurried and as a result slipped and started sliding, my two leashed ice tools (an REI/SMC 60 cm axe and a SMC Himalayan Hammer) proceeded to beat the shit out of me until I got one under control and was able to self arrest.

I've been doing the one piolet, one tool thing for a long time now. I have a 'old school' hammer (straight shafted BD carbon fiber Black Prophet) with a traditional leash that I bought specifically to go with my piolet, which also has a leash. FWIW, I have made two unsuccessful attempts at going leashless (BD Vipers, Petzl Quarks), so I am kind of addicted to my old man leashes. Buying a pair of Grivel Tech Machines though, so maybe the third time will be the charm.

I climbed it in August 2009, YocumRidge more recently. I think early season like May should be pretty straight forward. I've seen two trip reports I the last few years from May and it looked like a walk in the park compared with later season. I would consider this route one of the more dangerous routes I've climbed in the Cascades. It was one of my most memorable routes as well. Worth it? Depends upon your risk tolerance I suppose.

IF the toe bail (Cramp-o-matic) fits your boots really well, that is the most precise attachment. Getting a really good fit is not guaranteed though, and a poor fit can cause problems. Also, as the toe and welt wears down with use the attachment becomes less secure. I've seen crampons pop off due to this issue. The New-matic with the front basket will fit your boots regardless of the condition of the toe, but the connection may be a less precise. Personally, for ice climbing crampons I use a toe bail, for general mountaineering and alpine climbing I use the New-matic system.

The Mountaineers, Washington Alpine Club and Boealps all offer comprehensive classes at very reasonable rates. The quality of instruction is variable as you get anywhere from very experienced to rank newbies teaching and you have to suffer the club mentality. I imagine most, if not all, classes are filled at this point. A 21 day comprehensive course through one of the guide outfits like American Alpine Institute, Pro Ski and Guide, Mountain Madness, Alpine Ascents International,etc are more expensive, but the quality of instruction is excellent, much better than the clubs, but you get what you pay for. Another option is to ask around for a mentor. I am no longer interested in pushing my personal boundaries but get a lot of enjoyment from bringing up the next generation. Find someone like that and you can get free instruction but will have to put up with old man smell and constant name dropping and stories of 'when I was your age...'