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DPS

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Everything posted by DPS

  1. Gib Ledges in August could be problematic. Just saying.
  2. From a man who knows: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/la-sportiva-batura-20.html http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/07/la-sportiva-nepal-cube.html From my own experience owning two models of La Sportiva mountaineering/ice climbing boots, three pairs of La Sportiva approach shoes, and perhaps a dozen pairs of rock shoes: La Sportiva seems to be the most innovative foot wear manufacturer. They come out with a fairly revolutionary designs, and the other manufactures follow suit the next year. La Sportiva is top notch quality. Only two models that I owned had durability issues, and they were fixed in the next generation (First generation Kaukulators, first generation Trango Ice Extreme). I put up with the too narrow fit for years until I reached the age of 40 when my feet got even wider. I sold all my remaining LS foot wear and went with Scarpa, which I find to be every bit as well constructed and performant as LS. And they fit my feet perfectly. I wish I could fit into LS, those new Cube models are dead sexy.
  3. La Sportiva boots fit a narrower foot than Scarpa. Maybe look at Batura, Nepal, Trango Ice for ice climbing boots.
  4. Those are old, and happen to be my first pair of tools! Last season I ran into a fellow still climbing on them. The best was when the blue fiberglass shafts iced up. Good times.
  5. I think of any tools more recent than Pulsars to be new. Good luck finding a partner.
  6. I thought the east face looked like it had potential for some great routes on great rock. I am surprised it went at 5.9+, it seemed like there were a lot of roofs, I would have expected much harder climbing. Excellent work!
  7. There is a second hand store in Issaquah (Superior Seconds) where I have seen some AT skis with Silveretta 404s and 500s for pretty darn cheap.
  8. He slept in front of the toilet, I remember because I had to step over him.
  9. After the rope we were both at last there were some hassles from the man, so no more rope ups, at least on Forest Service campgrounds.
  10. Welcome back Sobo!
  11. DPS

    Finding Partners

    Yes, but I had seen all the gnarly shit Nastia climbed, so I was comfortable with it.
  12. DPS

    denali?

    I like calling mountains by their native names. Makes it sound like I climb exotic shit.
  13. Aidan Haley.
  14. I had a beautiful down parka and nice Patagonia sweater listed here on cc.com forever. Sold immediately on Craigslist.
  15. I think rock routes would be where it is at North Ride, Stuart Ice Cliff Arete, Mt Stuart West Ridge, Sherpa (would require climbing Stuart first) Descents could be involved affairs. Something on Argonayt
  16. A partner said it took him 2 1/2 days to reach camp when he first did it over 20 years ago. Our trip took about 6 hours.
  17. Have fun with that. Your feet will hurt, but at least you will have a long walk.
  18. Giardiasis is miserable, but at least it lasts a long time.
  19. If the weather is good, then alpine rock is where it is at. NE Buttress of Colchuck, North or WEst Ridge or Ice Cliff Arete of Stuart, something on Prusik Peak, North or West Ridge of Sherpa. Washington Pass could be great too. NW Corner on NEWS, East Buttress Direct or SW Buttress of SEWS, Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, all the wine spires, Kangaroo Ridge area...
  20. 1. Remove all residue and dirt from both surfaces with a stiff brush. An appropriate solvent may be necessary to remove the glue residue. 2. Apply Barge cement to both surfaces until tacky. 3. Adhere sole to boot, using some method to apply even pressure during the drying process. Cobblers use a press to do this, you might be able to rig up some bungees or something.
  21. If this is the variation I am thinking of, then Juan Sharp and JasonG climbed it. They reported difficulties significantly harder than 5.6, but maybe theirs was a different variation. Here is what Juan wrote specifically about it: "The way that Jason and I took for the first of the two summit block pitches was an ugly grunt"
  22. I had a pair of boots that had the soles completely delaminate - peeled all the way off. Dave Page re-glued the soles.
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