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Juan Sharp

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About Juan Sharp

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 11/26/2017
  1. The cool kids leave the tent poles at home. Or, maybe somewhere along the route, as the case may be.
  2. Funny Bronco. If my memory serves me, based on a conversation with him at Doug Walker's memorial and given its rather saggy appearance, Todd Bibler might call it an "Impotent," which I recall was Todd's preferred name for one of his early tents that competed with the Early Winters Omnipotent. Pretty sure he said the marketing team shot that one down, along with the "Shock Strap" (a harness?) and the "Stay Free Mini-Pad" (a bivy sack). Face it, the guy's a genius.
  3. [TR] Mount Maude - North Face 07/23/2022

    I can't reveal all my secrets, Jason, even after 5 1/2 days of trying but failing to keep up with you on the Ptarmigan Traverse. =;-)
  4. [TR] Mount Maude - North Face 07/23/2022

    Such an awesome route - great TR and photos! In 2001, Erik Snyder (whatever happened to him - moved to Tahoe and then?), my wife and I did it in a day door-to-door from Bellevue. We were late getting home to the babysitter. =;-) In 2005, Kurt Hicks and I did it after deciding against the Crawling Rat Rib. We cheated by sleeping in Leroy Basin. You should consider the Entiat Icefall as another good route on Maude (Bob Davis and I did that in 2000 with the great and handsome Chris Weidner). And, for routes like this, the North Face of Sinister is in good shape right now. Just spent a couple days looking at it from the Ptarmigan Traverse. Caveat - the Bachelor Creek "trail" is in rough shape right now. Unless you like blow down, in which case you'll be psyched.
  5. [TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress 08/01/2020

    They'd think you're soft, Bronco. =;-) There are two things I wish I'd had on that route in July1999: heavy-duty garden gloves and a cell phone. One of these wishes has been well documented. Big Jim Nelson wishes he'd had more cans of grape soda. Way to move fast on a route that can really sap your energy and mess with your head. I'd like to think that Doug Walker was smiling from above and watching over you.
  6. [TR] Mount Terror - West Ridge 07/25/2020

    Solid effort and solo to boot! Wow. I've never been in that way. You talk about the importance of sticking to the trail on an approach to the pickets. It took a partner and me two full days in a driving rain to get to the southern pickets in mid-July 1987. We were 24 with heavy packs and it worked us hard. Unlike now, there really was no trail back then but we did encounter a few faded pieces of surveyor's tape, which was somewhat comforting. Like maybe five or six pieces in two days. Once the skies cleared and we could see the peaks up close we were dumbstruck. So yeah, the effort's worth it. Keep up the great work and reports.
  7. [TR] Mt. Baker - North Ridge 07/19/2020

    Hi Dave, I checked my photos and didn't see any of the dog or dogs (I think we saw two?). Although I'm an attorney, I don't know whether it's legal to have a dog on Baker. Mount Adams certainly sees its share of pooches. Maybe more people should consider the Boulder Glacier Route - it's a good one. Full value, like you said. Be well, John
  8. [TR] Mt. Baker - North Ridge 07/19/2020

    Hey you two, I was with Tom Breit. We did the Boulder Glacier Route and I'm happy to provide beta to anyone who is considering that one. We had the route to ourselves and so were somewhat surprised to see so many people (and dogs) on top. But, as Alisse commented, the weather was bomber and folks have been cooped up. It was time for everyone to stretch their legs! A great day in the hills and the post-climb Advil seems to be helping. Cheers, John
  9. [TR] Mt Logan - Fremont Glacier 08/04/2019

    Hey Richard, I have a hunch you're in better shape at age 61 (?) than a lot of guys half your age.
  10. North Face Mt. Maude in August?

    Agreed. Likely to be some exposed rock now.
  11. [TR] Mt Logan - Fremont Glacier 08/04/2019

    Dana is a kind and patient man. He assured me repeatedly that my sluggish pace and frequent stops were no issue. But let's be clear, this trip kicked my ass. Everything still hurts. A few observations: When we climbed the North Face of Sinister in August 2016, we seemed more evenly matched. Now, at age 56, a lengthy three-day trip with zero conditioning has become a true suffer-fest. Since 2016, I've gained almost 20 pounds. See the photo of me on the glacier - that round thing in my mid-section may as well be near-full-term baby. At age 42, Dana still sits at his long-distance college runner weight. He still has visible abs! I try not to hate him for this. My pack was relatively huge; Dana's looked like a school girl's book bag. How does he survive for THREE WHOLE DAYS without the 110 essentials? Dana wore Solomon trail runners; I wore La Sportiva Trangos. This was a mistake on my part, as usual. Toe nails will be lost. I sweat like a Russian oligarch in a Moscow steam bath; Dana never even glistened, despite the heat. He says he's "air cooled." It's weird. Unlike *CutebutChossy69*/bluebagprincess and her partner, Dana and I remained fully clothed while tackling the summit pyramid. This was a good thing for all concerned. In sum, we had a fine time and I hope that by mid-September I'll be able to take a single flight of stairs without eating four Advil.
  12. Great work. Your photos are a stark reminder of how climate change has affected aspects such as the snow apron leading to the north ridge proper. I don’t recall what months I climbed it (twice) but, other than a lateral crack at the bottom, it was continuous snow and ice to the top/ridge. DPS may have written up the more recent outing. Glad you persevered and made the right choice by hunkering down on your descent.
  13. Great work, young man. Seldom have I felt as relieved to be in the Cascade Pass parking lot (or any parking lot, post-climb) as when Bob Davis, Jim Nelson and I arrived there in the early evening on day two of what was supposed to be a day trip up the N.E. Buttress, in July 1999. Aside from being "overdue," we had down climbed the CJ Couloir and were very lucky to avoid serious rockfall. It was stressful. Our relief was short-lived, however, when we heard and then saw the N.C.N.P. Rangers heading up-valley in a chopper. After the whirlybird landed in the picnic area, the ensuing conversation with Kelly Bush is one I'll never forget. She and I reminisced at Fred's memorial. Also, a shout out is in order for the late and great Doug Walker, who suggested the ridge crossing on a different trip to J'Berg. I was skeptical but it worked, and the name "Doug's Direct" in my subsequent TR seems to have stuck. R.I.P. Doug.
  14. This is now officially on my short list provided Jason accompanies with all necessary photographic equipment, frog spray and bolt cutters to allow easy access to the hermit hostel.
  15. The Pickets - blood, sweat and bees.
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