DPS

I don't think there are 50 different routes at Index I can climb.

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I really didn't mean to be a buzz kill, I'm happy I came up with one quite good possibility.

Here is a thought: NE Face of Eldorado. It is a moderate, technical ice climb in late season ~ AI 2. Somewhat contrived but genuine, actual ice climbing that may be in good shape in mid August this year. Here are some photos taken in late summer 10 years ago: http://www.math.wsu.edu/faculty/bkrishna/TripPages/EldoNEFace.html

South Early Winters Spire - SW Couloir will definitely be out, like just a crappy, loose, rocky gulley. Eldorado - E Ridge will be certainly be doable and is scenic but not technical. Similar in difficulty to Ruth-Icy. NF Buckner - NF. Likely out by mid August this year and you would have to cross the Boston Glacier which is a big, active, crevassed glacier. Mt Sutart - Ice Cliff Glacier. I suspect it will be out of condition by August. A bergschrund often forms that spans the entire width of the glacier and the gulley exit will likely be dry (loose, crappy rock).

The weather was hot but at least it was humid.

He has.

Every time I have been there, there is reliable running water coming off the Upper Curtis glacier right next to the wonderful bivi sites above Winnie's Slide.

Ruth-Icy is not a technical ice climb, more of a very scenic high alpine tour/glacier traverse with a bit of rock climbing thrown in to summit Icy Peak. I suspect if NF Shuksan is already melted out then most of the techy alpine ice routes you would be potentially interested in will also be out of shape by August.

I suspect there will be exposed ice on the North Face in August, especially this year. I would definitely bring a pair of tools. I fell into a hidden slot on the NF, not sure what month that was though. The approach if done properly is not bad, if you botch it, well, expect some misery. The descent down the Fisher Chimneys is no gimme as far as descent routes go. NF Shuksan is a prototypical Cascades climb, it is not the technical aspect that is the hard part, it is the whole ball of wax. I would not recommend it as a first climb in the range. A climb in the same vicinity that I think you would dig is the Ruth-Icy Traverse. There are crevasses though, but I think you kind of have to take extra effort to fall into them.

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Bump. Buy my stuff!

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I tried Googling 'Mary Green' to learn who the glacier was named for, but I ended up at a web site selling ladies underwear. Anybody know who Mary Green was?

Index, single pitch stuff like City Park and Iron Horse, and other steep, thin cracks that don't get freed too often. Then maybe some upper town wall stuff like Town Crier and Green Dragon.

I recall seeing your name in the register an unreasonable number of times. You must be a glutton for punishment.

..ha! hadn't thought about how wedged that knot would get in there. Difference between textbook/backyard practice and reality is stark! The only anchors that would work were picketed skis, not sure that one is taught in FOTH.

The butterfly knot actually jams in the grove created by the rope sawing into the crevasse list. Realistically, you will need to carry enough rope in the rescue coils to throw down an anchored, padded rope to the climber in the crevasse or carry a second rope. This will allow you to either perform a C x Z hauling system or to allow the climber to Prusik the rope. In one situation in the Ruth Gorge, I was carrying the second rope when my partner went into a crevasse. His weight never came onto me as the butterfly knot jammed into the lip. I set up the second rope for the rescue and the original rope was so stuck that we had to cut it.

Mountaineering boots should not be too tight or too loose. They should fit snugly at the heel with no heel lift and have enough room in the toe to repeatedly kick a stair riser without banging your toes. You should try on boots with the socks you plan on wearing (thick mountaineering socks). If you experience any toe bang in the store, it will only get much worse while step kicking, front pointing, and descending.

What Gene said.

The best conditions I have experienced for a speed ascent on the DC were in mid September following an early season snow storm. The crevasses were all wide open and the icy spots were covered in perfect neve' and all the ladders were still in place. I think soloing earlier in the season is more dangerous as snow bridges of undetermined strength exist.

From what I've read, runners are faster on the ascent and skiers make up the difference on the descent. I think the ski record came though Muir at 90 minutes, whereas the runners come through around 60. I also think most running ascents are done later in the season when the crevasses are open and obvious and the only reason the current record was done early was because they were on skis and wanted snow coverage.

I am surprised at the restraint demonstrated by the cc.com collective.

Bump - still available.