DPS

My hope is that the Grivel North Machine Carbon has the beautiful, natural swing that the Cobra does while fixing all the things that suck about it (useless hammer and adze, shitty pick). If I can at least get my hands on a pair of the new Grivels or read a solid review, I will be selling my Quarks and getting the North Machine Carbons.

Has anyone gotten their rookers on a pair of Grivel North Machine Carbon? They look incredible. I've been cycling through ice tools trying to find a pair of leash less tools for alpine and waterfalls, currently using Quarks but I am not particularly happy with the weight (too light in head) and the hammer is not especially useful. The Grivel NMC is about the same weight, but I am curious if more of the weight would be in the head because of the carbon shafts. Also the hammers look like they are more prominent so they may drive pitons better. Would love to hear any feedback from folks who have used or at least handled these tools.

Were you happy with the results?

Hi, Has anybody removed the trigger finger rest from the upper grip rest on their Quarks? I would like to do this but keep the upper grip rest. Can this be done? Does one need to use a spacer, or do you just tighten the hex bolt down? TIA, Dan

I think the guy is wrong. The traditionally accepted method of tying into the rope is to run the rope through the waist and leg loops. The belay loop is for belaying an rappelling only.

I glue the rubber seal to the boot with skin adhesive and have never had snow ingress issues. Plastics may seem heavy and clunky but most, if not the entire trip, will be on snow and the 'clunkyness' aspect will be less noticeable.

The entire point of the super gaiters are to keep the leathers from getting wet from the outside, the VBLs keep them from getting wet from the inside. That is the theory anyway.

I also think the boot you currently own now should be one of the factors that drives your decision. If you do not own any mountaineering boots yet, then dropping the $500-$700 on a pair of insulated all mountain leather boots or 6000 meter boots is premature. Renting a pair of plastics would be the way to go. You may end up hating the sport. If you already own a good quality pair of insulated all mountain leather boots, then I would recommend buying a pair of super gaiters and VBL socks. Using VBL socks requires discipline. Wear a thin merino wool liner sock under the VBL (wool does not hold odor), and your regular insulating sock over the VBL. Dry the liners against your stomach at night. You need to be fastidious about caring for your feet when using VBL socks as it is very easy to get trench foot or athlete's foot. Wash and dry your feet every night. I use snow to wash my feet and I turn the VBLs inside out and wash them with snow and hang them to dry overnight. Using Gold Bond medicated powder inside dry socks before bed is a good idea as well.

You will not be able to keep a leather boot dry for 6 days in late May on Mt. Baker. The snow that time of year is deep and becomes very wet after noon. Leather boots will wet out after a couple of days and will progressively become more wet as the trip goes on. There is no practical way to field dry boots once they become that wet. You could use a '6000 meter' boot such as LS Batura or Scarpa Phantom They are light, agile, and will keep your feet dry and warm. Or, you could use a super gaiter with a pair of isulated leathers to keep them dry, of course this means they will not breath either so you will need to use a VBL and liner sock system to keep the boot from wetting out from the inside.

So, apparently this new breed of high lofting, highly breathable insulation, (e.g. PolarTec Alpha), is an insulating piece intended to be worn while moving. This is a distinctly different function than Primaloft/down which has traditionally been used in belay jackets whose purpose is to be worn while not moving. I have been using a Marmot DriClime wind shirt for over 20 years and it is the most universally useful garment I own. It sheds wind and light precipitation and insulates yet still breathes well and it layers easily due to its slippery nylon shell. Even in the winter, it is often the only insulation worn while on the go. I'm curious to see if this new technology is superior to the DriClime. I may pick up a vest this winter to see.

Hi Jim, I have sold a large amount of climbing gear and apparel over the past six months. I have concluded that for current or near current generation used gear/clothing in very good condition asking %50 to %60 of original retail cost gets responses. That said, ice and rock gear seem to be similar to consumer electronics/technology. When the newest version of a widget is released, the old version drops quite a bit in value. I ended up selling perfectly serviceable previous generation Camalots (with brand new factory replaced slings) for $10.00 each and gave away a pair of BD Shrikes. The price on your Rages, which are last generation tools, are about %70 of retail for CURRENT generation tools (e.g. BD Vipers). You will likely need to drop the price quite a bit on these if you want them to move.

PM sent.

The sad fact is that about %50 of retail is the going rate for used gear, unless the item is highly sought. IF you purchased the crampons from EMS or REI you may be able to return them, which would be the best alternative.

Interior guy points can be used to reinforce the integrity of the tent in high winds. Not sure where to find any more info about this, maybe from the manufacturer?

Ouch, somebody had an unpleasant hike.

Here is a route description I wrote with photos with links to other trip reports with photos: http://www.summitpost.org/northwest-ice-couloir/688985 To answer your specific questions, this route may be in condition in late October, but it needs a few snow/melt/freeze cycles first. When I did it on November 3rd, one party the weekend before and one party they day before us had made the entire approach only to turn around at the base feeling it was too bony. My point being, early November may even be too early, it depends on the weather between now and then and your idea of what 'in' means. Here is what I recommend for a rack: 5-6 ice screws, mostly stubbies. Pitons, a couple of Bugaboos and small angles Selection of nuts. Cams to 0.4 to 2" We did not carry pickets and given the good rock and ice pro available did not think they would have been helpful. With more snow they might be good to take and are of course prudent for the glacier approach.

http://www.nwac.us/

I climbed it in November 2-3, 2002 and it was definitely mixed and super fun. http://www.summitpost.org/nw-ice-couloir-eldorado-peak/689266 http://www.summitpost.org/nw-ice-couloir-eldorado-peak/689264 http://www.summitpost.org/nw-ice-couloir-eldorado-peak/689260

Depending upon amount of snow and freeze melt cycles, NE Couloir on Dragontail could be in good nick by mid November. North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck could be in. If either of those are not in, a hike up Colhcuck Glacier will be doable.

Buy a copy of Freedom of the Hills and read it. By the time you finish reading it there should be adequate snow cover to attempt Mt Hood, say about April.

Gene, I don't think I ever told you this, but at one job I had in Bellingham I worked with a guy who was getting into climbing. He said he was learning from a pretty bad assed guy named Gene Pires.

I think the glaciers have receded tremendously over the last 80 years. I did Liberty Ridge July 15, 1995 and had great conditions. Went back mid July 2013 and it was a huge pile of rubble from the Carbon all the way to Thumb Rock. Season on LR is getting earlier every year it seems.

I would extend that to the entire Stuart Range. Fine winter routes on D-Tail, Colchuck, Argonaut, Stuart, probably other peaks on Enchantment Plateau.

One of my favorite areas for winter mixed is Snoqualmie Pass. Short drive for me (30 minutes), very accessible in winter, and a lot of really fun climbing. The Tooth, Chair Peak, Snoqualmie Peak all have good routes. Cascade Pass as long as the road is drivable (usually until beginning of the new year) is another favorite. NE Ice Couloir on Eldo, NE Buttress of J'Berg, routes on Mixup all offer the goods.

Without a lot of snowfall between now and then, it will be a really dangerous and nearly impossible climb. But good luck.