JasonG

That's because kayaking is dangerous @JayB!

A classic, well done! And, given the near misses on the Price in the last few decades, I'm surprised that there hasn't been a horrific accident. At least I don't recall one? It is a gamble, pure and simple.

Classic rival faction gossip

Trip: Big Chiwakum and Snowgrass - via Grace Lakes Trip Date: 07/06/2019 Trip Report: The weather of the early summer was often not exactly bomber. Which means it was perfect for the scrambly peaks that are on the B (or Smoot) list. On this particular Independence Day weekend that meant Big Chiwakum and Snowgrass. We opted for a two day trip, camping at lower Grace Lakes. We were surprised to run into a pair of USFS backcountry rangers out of Leavenworth who were also camping up there. Given the mayhem of late in the Enchantments, it would seem that they were on an R&R assignment. One of them reported that the peak count at the Colchuck TH last summer was 800+ with over 400+ counted at Colchuck lake itself! Damn. We felt fortunate to share the lakes with three other parties (which still seemed like a lot for this obscure locale). But nobody was gunning for Big Chiwakum nor Snowgrass, despite the very non-alpine start @Trent and I got after accidentally consuming 750ml of whiskey the night before. These things happen in the alpine. Nevertheless, we pressed on, climbing the surprisingly engaging north side of Snowgrass in the mists, only to pop out in the sun on top. Well, how about that? Next, we backed down into the mists once again, and swung over to Big Chiwakum for the double Smoot. All that was left was a long slog back to the car, swatting bugs and planning our next adventure. The A plan, of course. There would always be Smoots for when the weather failed. Gear Notes: Helmet, axe, crampons Approach Notes: Decent trail to the lakes from Whitepine/Wildhorse creeks. Good camps at the lower lakes. We went to ridge north of lakes then up to upper terrace where upper Grace Lake is. From upper Grace Lake you can link both peaks easily. Best in early season when the North side of Snowgrass holds snow. Pretty steep in places, to about 40-45 degrees

Trip: Echo Rock and Mount Fay - Smooty Smooters Trip Date: 06/30/2019 Trip Report: Seems as if the poor Mount Rainier forum is a bit neglected of late....which makes sense considering most routes in the park are best early in the year. Still, maybe you're looking for ideas for next spring? How about a double or triple Smoot day out of Mowich Lake? Echo and Observation Rocks plus Mount Fay are surely on your list so you might as well blast them out. There really isn't anything tricky about any of them so I'll just leave a few images to tease you in the coming months when you finally run out of ideas gleaned from Instagram. Sorry @BrettS, but you wore red. Gear Notes: Ice axe, and helmet Approach Notes: Spray Park from Mowich Lake then follow your nose back

So true. I too have heard of the 1960's and 70's crowds. I'm beginning to realize that the 90's were a pretty good time to start climbing. Gen X was too busy hanging around town! And Image is on my list for sure....need to work up to it with the boys. Thanks for the reminder! And I need to check out Fish and Whistle!

That's a good 'un. Too bad you missed out on the experience at the bivy. Next time!

It's a classic for sure, and certainly in the ass-kicking department! As you've probably surmised, in the early summer a lot of that loose rock is covered in snow. Of course, if steep snow isn't very enjoyable, that could be worse than scree, depending on your preferences. Any way you cut it, you won't forget the trip!

Is it just me, or has use of all types exploded in the Cascades in the last 3-5 years? It seems like a couple hundred percent increase, maybe more, in that short time.

Larch Madness will be doubly mad this year!

Holy crap!!! That is crazy. I've climbed Mesahchie three times and never seen anyone in there. Also, if anyone is wondering, by the time you get over to Cosho it isn't too much worse to just carry on thru to 4th of July pass and Thunder Creek (avoiding the unsavory gully below Cosho). It was three moderate days for that adventure, though we did skip Katsuk since I'd climbed it before. It felt really wild in there but I guess the masses have come. Well done getting the peaks climbed and not missing the concert!

Yes you are. Cardboard or the standard Grivel guards will be more than sufficient. I typically pack the axe first on the bottom of the duffel with my ski poles and pickets and whatever else that is long and metal. All that crap made it to NZ and back without damage in the belly of the beast. The key is having a robust duffel. I recommend these: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5044-007/Duffle-Bag

https://grivel.com/products/axe-guard https://www.rei.com/product/782958/black-diamond-spike-protector Or, duct tape some cardboard around it!

Actually BD did some testing on this a long while back. Most old faded slings failed between 5-16kN. If you have enough crappy tat (~5 relatively intact pieces), you don't need to add anything new. And, if you leave the old while putting a new sling at the station, future parties might not have to add anything when they come upon your bleached tat (it gets crusty faster than you think). Reduce, reuse, recycle, and all that. It is somewhat laughable that the cry of LNT echos from a rap station with shiny new webbing. Maybe you meant Leave a Tidy Trace?

Father and son 70+ hours overdue after a planned climb of Sharkfin and WR of Forbidden. Found at ~4000' in the inner gorge of Boston Creek after blowing by the BB trail while descending. Started a fire to draw attention to their predicament. Good thing too, they were well outside of the search area! Minor injuries, they'll survive, but with a greater respect for the North Cascades (from Utah). Certainly a nice day for a ramble around up there looking for them....

Ah, thanks for the clarification.

Kids, I was with the wife! Or maybe we were still dating....not exactly sure of the year. Need to review my slides (!).

Ahhhhhh, you know I'm just pulling your chain right? I may have seen you at the TH Sunday....working with NPS to get the father and son out via helo. Part of the SAR gong show in the lot.... Funny note, on Sunday one of our trucks had to use their lights and sirens to get the slow pokes to pull over on the Cascade River road.

Good thing you worked so hard to get to the TH fast! That's the way to show those out of towners.

Great first TR!! Keep 'em coming!

It's all over the place in the Pickets right now. Have fun getting to the patches though. I've never really thought of it as rare, however.

Impressive! I was glad to have a partner holding the end of the rope. How far back did the register go? Wondering if I need to go back and re-live those simpler times....

Coming from you, that gives me some pause. I guess too soon to jest about the end of Fred's monopoly on ascents and beta?

Personal preference is king. I haven't tried them so I shouldn't be too down on it. I just put everything in one of those NZ pack liners that can double as an emergency bivy bag.