JasonG

That's a good 'un. Too bad you missed out on the experience at the bivy. Next time!

It's a classic for sure, and certainly in the ass-kicking department! As you've probably surmised, in the early summer a lot of that loose rock is covered in snow. Of course, if steep snow isn't very enjoyable, that could be worse than scree, depending on your preferences. Any way you cut it, you won't forget the trip!

Is it just me, or has use of all types exploded in the Cascades in the last 3-5 years? It seems like a couple hundred percent increase, maybe more, in that short time.

Larch Madness will be doubly mad this year!

Holy crap!!! That is crazy. I've climbed Mesahchie three times and never seen anyone in there. Also, if anyone is wondering, by the time you get over to Cosho it isn't too much worse to just carry on thru to 4th of July pass and Thunder Creek (avoiding the unsavory gully below Cosho). It was three moderate days for that adventure, though we did skip Katsuk since I'd climbed it before. It felt really wild in there but I guess the masses have come. Well done getting the peaks climbed and not missing the concert!

Yes you are. Cardboard or the standard Grivel guards will be more than sufficient. I typically pack the axe first on the bottom of the duffel with my ski poles and pickets and whatever else that is long and metal. All that crap made it to NZ and back without damage in the belly of the beast. The key is having a robust duffel. I recommend these: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5044-007/Duffle-Bag

https://grivel.com/products/axe-guard https://www.rei.com/product/782958/black-diamond-spike-protector Or, duct tape some cardboard around it!

Actually BD did some testing on this a long while back. Most old faded slings failed between 5-16kN. If you have enough crappy tat (~5 relatively intact pieces), you don't need to add anything new. And, if you leave the old while putting a new sling at the station, future parties might not have to add anything when they come upon your bleached tat (it gets crusty faster than you think). Reduce, reuse, recycle, and all that. It is somewhat laughable that the cry of LNT echos from a rap station with shiny new webbing. Maybe you meant Leave a Tidy Trace?

Father and son 70+ hours overdue after a planned climb of Sharkfin and WR of Forbidden. Found at ~4000' in the inner gorge of Boston Creek after blowing by the BB trail while descending. Started a fire to draw attention to their predicament. Good thing too, they were well outside of the search area! Minor injuries, they'll survive, but with a greater respect for the North Cascades (from Utah). Certainly a nice day for a ramble around up there looking for them....

Ah, thanks for the clarification.

Kids, I was with the wife! Or maybe we were still dating....not exactly sure of the year. Need to review my slides (!).

Ahhhhhh, you know I'm just pulling your chain right? I may have seen you at the TH Sunday....working with NPS to get the father and son out via helo. Part of the SAR gong show in the lot.... Funny note, on Sunday one of our trucks had to use their lights and sirens to get the slow pokes to pull over on the Cascade River road.

Good thing you worked so hard to get to the TH fast! That's the way to show those out of towners.

Great first TR!! Keep 'em coming!

It's all over the place in the Pickets right now. Have fun getting to the patches though. I've never really thought of it as rare, however.

Impressive! I was glad to have a partner holding the end of the rope. How far back did the register go? Wondering if I need to go back and re-live those simpler times....

Coming from you, that gives me some pause. I guess too soon to jest about the end of Fred's monopoly on ascents and beta?

Personal preference is king. I haven't tried them so I shouldn't be too down on it. I just put everything in one of those NZ pack liners that can double as an emergency bivy bag.

Also check out the BD Speed 50 and Mission 55. I don't get skipping the top pocket, nor those ridiculous fabrics that don't last. If you must have a monster pack, I'd look closely at the Gregory Denali 75. I've been using an older version for 10+ years on week long trips and it is great.

Thanks @curtveld, glad you enjoyed it! And yes, you nailed the approach beta from the trail- I could have been more specific about where to turn off. Post up a TR of your own if you have the time! I should add that in my correspondence with the Skagit Oracle (John Roper) he was of the opinion that nobody had climbed the rib before last summer. Not that our ascent was a huge deal, just passing it along that I did check with him. Fred, of course, is silent on the matter- both in word and print.

My lament in the last decade or so. I guess every generation in WA says the same though. I know the crowding since Treaty times has been a one way ratchet, with no relief in sight.

Sweet! Such a good climb- a CLASSIC. I'm a bit surprised it isn't busier. On the 4th weekend a few years ago we were the only ones on the route and, like you, had that beautiful ridge camp to ourselves.

There is a reason they only come in this configuration. It's pretty optimistic to think you'll be able to climb real ice with approach shoes. Regular strap-on Al crampons work fine for anything less than actual water/glacial ice. I like the longer points of Stubai ultralight universals, personally.

I don't think so, but perhaps @therunningdog did? The only way I could think that you wouldn't have problems coming back would be to go a different way!