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JasonG

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Everything posted by JasonG

  1. I have friends who really like Wenatchee. But that is further from the classical mountaineering photos that has likely drawn you to the PNW, and I'm not sure if they have much in the way of clubs or instructional courses. Or, there is always Bellingham, because they're looking for people to support the baristas who have graduate degrees but can't leave the town they went to school in. And they have lots of mountain guides who could use your instructional $$.
  2. It is climbing season and surely there is a poor dirtbag in need of cheap tools. Make me an offer if this seems unreasonable
  3. Same thing has been done periodically on Heliotrope after the fatalities the past few years. Unsightly, but better than the alternative.
  4. Make sure you buy a lottery ticket on the way to the TH. And post a TR!
  5. "Despite the objective hazards, the Willis Wall is a popular objective, in theory if not in practice. To climb Willis Wall and survive seems to elevate one to “”immortal”” status among Northwest climbers”. Climbing The Northwest Volcanoes, Jeff Smoot, 2nd Ed. From a TR in the db from a 1989 ascent of the wall
  6. Oh, I wouldn't be too sad. While this spring is very lean, we've had some years in the recent past that looked very much fatter at the same date. The ice step on NR will be good for many years to come. The crossing of the Coleman though.....
  7. Oh, there is plenty of data out there (table below from one of the MORA annual mountaineering reports): http://www.stephabegg.com/home/projects/rainierstatistics https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/annual-mountaineering-reports.htm https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Liberty-Ridge-Routebrief.pdf
  8. There is a newish issue though that is causing some of the images in old TRs to not display properly (i think they are being pulled from old gallery?). This is on @jon's to-do list.
  9. The gallery was one of the major reasons the decision to upgrade to the new platform was delayed for so long. It is unfortunate, but it was the only way to move the site into the future. The old board just wasn't working any longer.
  10. Yes, you are correct. And sorry to not reply to your message about this @tanstaafl. This just reminded me!!
  11. It is a memorable route, for sure. There were two parties at Thumb Rock when I climbed it in 2002, ours of four and @sepultura's of two for six total climbers. We didn't experience any rockfall at camp, though I was almost taken out by a bowling ball sized rock on the Black Pyramid. I also remember it was so calm when we woke up that you could've had a candle lit outside the tent and it wouldn't have blown out. Eerie that high on a major peak, and the only time I've ever experienced anything like it. It was mid 20's as well. So completely perfect.
  12. Wow, the Carbon looks terrible for this time of year!
  13. Climbing mountains and the attendant hazards refuses to be calculated, despite our best efforts (which doesn't mean we shouldn't try and stack the odds in our favor). No matter the plan, chunks of rock or ice won't necessarily care. A few of my dead friends testify to this unfortunate fact of climbing.
  14. Not if you climb the Emmons and ski it first thing in the morning!
  15. I've definitely seen it go well beyond the uptrack (100s of yds) over the years! Nice style, that is on my list to do it that way
  16. As we were listening to the story this morning, my wife said "You're not climbing that again!"
  17. Ugh Hard to find fault with anyone in this one. Thumb rock is a fraught location, but about the only place to camp that is somewhat sheltered on that massive face. Yet another reminder that the game we play isn't very safe. Condolences to all involved.
  18. That's fast! Dwight would be tickled to know that this route has become popular. It was one of his favorite adventures. When he relayed the story of it to me in the 90's it was obvious the details were still fresh in his mind, nearly 60 years later.
  19. Not like a thin plastic bag. I don't think it is a coincidence that nothing in my garbage bag has been chewed over the past 20 years while often things left outside have been. I'm guessing it gums up the bastards' teeth or something?
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