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Everything posted by JasonG
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Keep your eyes out in the North Cascade next summer!
JasonG replied to Bronco's topic in Climber's Board
Or perhaps.... -
Keep your eyes out in the North Cascade next summer!
JasonG replied to Bronco's topic in Climber's Board
Finally somebody is replenishing the North Cascades Scooby Snacks! -
[TR] Dragontail Peak - North East Couloir 11/23/2019
JasonG replied to PorterM's topic in North Cascades
I seem to remember that this is pretty much everyone's reaction to this route, or at least that top pitch! It seems it is often dry, or mostly dry, even when the rest of the route is "in". Perhaps typically too cold up there for ice to form? -
Ok party people, finally added captions to this and the Liberty TR!
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Finally added captions!
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Trip: Big Bear! - Brushtissima Trip Date: 11/11/2019 Trip Report: With all this attention on the NW couloir on Eldorado the past few weeks, Kit and I succeeded on a smash and grab ascent of BIG BEAR! last weekend. @Kit is in the midst of a noble mission to climb all the Cascadian peaks visible from his office in Everett and I'm well, I'm just a bit "special". We happened to catch it in "near perfect" conditions, I am happy to report, and suspect others may be lining up during the next fine weather spell this week. The ankle biting huckleberry have shed their leaves, leaving them only 50% as annoying as they are in high summer. And, most all the snow is gone, meaning one shouldn't worry about tiring themselves out kicking steps up straightforward snow slopes. To top it off, all of the flagging has been eaten by deer, meaning that a "fair means" ascent is nearly guaranteed. Why this brushy beast isn't more popular, I'll never know. Or, maybe it is popular? There is no register so it is tough to figure how many people are as "savvy" as us. All I know is that the 4130 isn't going to get less brushy in the next few years, so if you want either Liberty or BIG BEAR! in the next lifetime or two, you'll want to go now. Just don't expect flagging or the Instagram hordes to show you the way. The Brushtissima on BIG BEAR! (actually not that bad): @Kit working up the ridge above the "Moffitt Step": I just needed an eagle: Typical terrain: Liberty: Tahoma, but you knew that: Interesting angle on Hall, Big Four, Columbia, etc: The air was exceptionally clear, Everett and Kit's office standing out: The final few feet to the summit of Big Bear: East to Dakobed and Pugh above Exfoliation Dome: Anybody home on 3 Fingers? Jumbo, the slabbage patch, and Ulalach: Liberty from the summit: Squire Creek valley and its namesake walls: Gear Notes: eye protection, leather gloves, whiskey. Ice axe, crampons, and helmet some part of the year. Approach Notes: I somehow deleted my GPX track, not that it will help you much. Just look at the image in the TR for an idea of where to go. Just make sure you don't miss the Moffitt Step!
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Routes like these aren't consistently in all the time so it makes sense that once it gets reported as "in", the masses will appear! It took me several gos to make it happen over about a decade or so. Good on everyone knocking it off so efficiently!
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I love that the cc.com effect is back. Many moons ago it was a common thing to see a crowd the next weekend on whatever had a bunch of online traffic during the week.
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I'll have to be more obvious when poking fun in the future..... And you're correct to remind us that this very issue broke the friendship of Spring/Manning. Nice pics of one of the driest Novembers ever @bargainhunter, if you haven't climbed that North Ridge of Blum, I would recommend it!
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C'mon @bargainhunter and @max, don't insta-wreck the place. Let the masses work for it. .
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The older I get the more I think it is a no-brainer to carry a PLB, solo or not. I would suspect Ryan is now in that camp as well.
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I've always wanted to go in there in the fall and stay under the Great Trog!!
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Sumallo?
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Such a classic!! Glad you got it in good conditions, so much fun!
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No photo?
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Summary: Climbing is scary and may kill or maim you, especially if you make a mistake. It still may, even if you don't make a mistake. On the plus side, we are all going to die.
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I have two of these harnesses that my kids have outgrown. Barely used and in great shape. Both come with carry bag. $30 each or $50 for both. I live in Mount Vernon but can get then to Seattle or Bellingham area.
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Oops. Carry on then. Yes, please write up that ascent @Szyjakowski!
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@G-spotter beat you to that one! It basically boils down to.... Booty being in the eye of the beholder
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What about a bolt ladder on something that hasn't seen a free ascent, like on Monkey Face? We encountered this at Smith in 2003 without a note or sign anywhere around to indicate someone was working the route. No ropes, no chalk, not a soul around, but new draws on every bolt. I realize this might be hard to believe in this day and age.
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I did a little translating for you.... Nice work, you've made all us Smooters proud.
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A D750 with the 24-120mm Nikkor f4 mostly. I have a 20mm f1.8 that I brought on this trip as well. Glad you like the photos!
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19! Still a few of us OGs around, although math is obviously hard for us. @jon you should bring back the member numbers on the profiles!