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landoclimb

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landoclimb last won the day on January 8

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About landoclimb

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  • Birthday 01/11/2001

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    Portland
  1. Alpine training for real!
  2. Banff ice

    It was great meeting you on the Eliot, Peter. That trip sounds amazing. Have fun and good luck with partners!
  3. Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face Right Gully Trip Date: 01/02/2019 Trip Report: New year new objectives! Plans, partners, and conditions finally aligned for the north face of Hood. I parked at Timberline and my friend drove us to Tilly Jane. 12am sharp we were on the trail. The approach to the A-Frame was super mellow and took us slightly over an hour. From there we followed a well compacted path to the carin on Cooper Spur. The snow on the glacier was boot deep most of the way. Not bad conditions at all. By 4:20 we stopped at about 8500 feet to nap because none of us got any sleep the day before. Sleeping at the base of Cooper 30 At 5:50 my partner woke me up. I'm pretty sure I was hypothermic but that nap felt soooo good. The slog up to the base of the route uneventful but the sunrise was well worth it. We crossed to the right of the bergschrund. The snow was kind of spooky but it went with ease. After some more slogging we got on the first ice step. It felt WI2-3ish overall. After about 50 meters of climbing I made a belay with a screw and picket. First ice step Me leading up the step The snow between the ice steps was quite pleasant. We comfortably soloed through it, kicking in deep if we needed to rest. Here's the second ice step. It felt pretty easy as well. WI2 probably. A few hundred more feet of slogging brought us to Cathedral Spire. It looked like a fun climb for another day. Climbing up one of those cracks looked compelling and fun. What the snow looked like Summit pyramid. At the summit pyramid we faced the first alpine ice we had seen on the entire route. Opting not to simu-solo, we unroped for the last stretch. Pulling the summit cornice was bittersweet. Throughout the entire route we faced no wind, relatively mild temperatures, and perfect visibility. When we got to the summit, it was a different story. It was a total whiteout, icy wind made everything freeze, and things got pretty damn cold. We decided to descend the old chute because the pearly gates were iced up. We made it down in record slow time, mistaking ice formations for buildings and people a number of times. The descent to Palmer had very little snow, it was mostly these ice rock things. Our lack of sleep was finally catching up to us. When we got to the car, I began seeing imaginary hot air balloons and large apartment buildings. Overall though, it was an exceptional trip. The snow was great. The ice was great. Even the approach was pretty mellow and fun. All in all it took us about 15 hours including the impromptu nap time. I honestly have no idea when we got to the summit. It was a fun but relatively easy romp up the mountain. here's what the descent conditions looked like Gear Notes: 4 Screws 2 Pickets Approach Notes: Follow the trail, descent at the carin
  4. Suunto recommendations?

    The Ambit3 Peak works great. Its proven to be pretty durable so far. For running it's great and also pairs with the Suunto heart rate monitor. Without GPS the battery lasts for a little over a week it seems. Its got a bunch of different modes to track activities like skiing, climbing, hiking, etc.
  5. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Eliot Goacier ice is IN. Cooper 30 is solid and some other ice around is in decent shape too.
  6. Eliot Glacier Ice

    As of a week ago the road was completely open to the inn with no snow.
  7. Eliot Glacier Ice

    Went up this weekend 11/3 to check out the drips on the Eliot glacier. A few of the climbs are kind of in. The climbable ones are super wet. The north gully also looks like it's pretty close to being in. The two routes I got on The north face. 11/3
  8. Mt. Hood North Face Right Gully 11/2-11/3

    That’s good thinking. I found someone to go craging with me by the drips up there. The window seemed too narrow and the wind would have blew anyways. I’ll post about the conditions and what I observe tomorrow.
  9. Mt. Hood North Face Right Gully 11/2-11/3

    Yeah the weather on saturday night sucks. I was hoping to get in friday night and be done saturday morning.
  10. Looking for an experienced partner to go up the north face with me. We would start Friday night/Saturday morning ish. Just a quick trip up to start the season!
  11. That’s some solid alpine training!
  12. Thank you for sharing that. May Doug rest easy.
  13. Going straight up and skipping most of the trees might go, but there would definitely be more 4th and 5th class rock. I encountered some 5.8 moves but I’m sure there are lines on the buttress with easier or harder rock. Most of it was low 5th however.
  14. I don’t think the couloir was in. Not that I saw at least.
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