JasonG

This deserves a bump....cool link-up!

Thanks @Stefan! If you're the same Stefan I'm thinking you are, we put your annotated map to good use on this trip. I'm amazed at all you got around to on your trip.

Trip: Tenpeak and Kololo- Witness to Vanishing Ice - Standards Trip Date: 09/01/2019 Trip Report: The Cascades have become a bit of a gong show in recent years, and much more so on holiday weekends. This was on full display the Saturday of Labor Day weekend as @therunningdog and I slogged up the North Fork Sauk trail en route to White Pass, passing no less than 50 (!) people bound for Glacier Peak the next day. The overflowing parking area attested to the fact that many more were already up the trail, somewhere. But, unsurprisingly, nobody was headed to Tenpeak or Kololo and we left them all behind as soon as we left the Foam Creek route for the character building traverse to the White River Glacier. An unforecasted rain squall was bearing down on us as we crested the moraine below the glacier and gazed out on a large lake that wasn't on our maps. There was no way to cross the outlet (we had read) and the traverse around it looked tenuous at best with loose debris perched on steep slabs. But the alternatives were even worse so we rock hopped and chossed our way around to the bare ice, barely making it to flat gravel as the heavens unleashed. This is what we came for? Camp "Grim" was christened as we soggily established camp where ice was just a few years before. The weather cleared at dusk but the forecast for the next day was worse so we drowned our sorrows in whiskey and the Ron Burgundy podcast. Did you know that your brain shrinks to 65% of its normal volume during deep sleep so cerebral spinal fluid can pump around and flush out toxins? Ron didn't either. Anyways, the next day dawned so-so as expected but we didn't have anything else to do so began the tedious and long slog around the Hive, over the shoulder of West Tenpeak, and around to the Standard route on Tenpeak. While scenic, glacial recession in this area has made for rugged travel, sans snow. Expect a full day return. The regular route on Tenpeak is short, has a bit of fifth class, and is actually pretty decent. Given the approach (White River isn't a lot better), nobody will be surprised that it only gets a party or so a year. The register was placed in 1972 and appeared to have scrap of paper with Fred's name signed to it. This is probably the only register I've seen with that honor (if it is legit), as all others I've seen with him have been photocopies of the original entry. After a long while admiring the view (the weather had cleared) and delaying the tedious descent/return to camp, we bid adieu and headed for Camp Grim. On the way back we coined the acronymn "YOCO" to describe Tenpeak- as in a peak You Only Climb Once. Still, I thought it was worth climbing....once. Monday was clear and glorious as forecasted so we took our time climbing up to the col west of Kololo that would give us access to the what's left of the Whitechuck Glacier. Dropping packs we went for a scenic ramble up to the summit of Kololo, a fantastic viewpoint of the surrounding area. Nobody around for miles it seemed, but a short ways off we knew the masses were packing up and heading home. By the time we crevasse hopped our way down the bare ice and joined the climber's path, we didn't run into anybody until some horsepackers on the Foam Creek path who were picking up USGS gear. The hike out the NF Sauk was a lot quieter than on the way in, but enlivened by a few parties. The most memorable of which had a member who had packed AT boots all the way to high camp because "they were the only boots that fit my crampons". Wow! So, if the trails are going to be crowded, at least there's always the people watching. Captions refer to the photo below ..... Hiking in on the NF Sauk: Indian Head Peak: Uh oh: Camp at the toe of the White River Gl: Honeycomb Gl. crusin': Dakobed: West Tenpeak. We didn't summit because we didn't want to break out the rope: Snout of Honeycomb (L), Signing in on Tenpeak (R): Gneiss!: The magnificent desolation of the White River Gl.: Treat your water people: This is what we came here for!: What's left of the Whitechuck Gl.: Tenpeak is the dark tower: Whitechuck crevasse hopping: I've never seen a tarn like this, have you?: The ultra classic Sloan: I tend to forget what a nice valley the NF Sauk is: Gear Notes: half rope and light rack to 2" for Tenpeak. Ice axe and Al crampons. Helmet Approach Notes: Pick your poison. Long, rugged and scenic from NF Sauk or brushy and long from White River

Really love that Square Lake sunrise photo! Cool area, so many nooks and crannies to get to in the Cascades.....

Oh right! Forgot I started this. Thanks @mrice1225 for digging this up and posting the good news. However, Kiewit still retains ownership so I wouldn't be surprised to see it rear its head again when there is another opportunity to supply rock.

ahhhhhh....right. My old brain vaguely remembered traffic on that mega ridge, but I was too incompetent to search the database. Thanks @rat!

In that photo above @lunger there is that uber prominent rib/ridge on Buck. Is that one of the routes described in Beckey on the North side or something #unclimbed?

Good point to bring up. It is pretty solid though, with all the parties that go up and down the summit gully. Agreed that late season on Baker is often less than fun. Well, all the volcanoes really.

Mount Shuksan! Way more iconic than Baker. Sulphide in late season.... Permits can be an issue, however, on Shuksan. Late season on Baker this year you'll probably be left with Easton. Sounds like Coleman went out early with crevasse shenanigans.

This is getting good! I'm sure @G-spotter has a couple more possibilities......

Oh come on now. Don't you all love flab, sore tendons, and overbooked calendars? We didn't know then that the best was yet to come!

I almost feel bad interrupting this amazing string of ascents to say......wow. Shine on you crazy diamond.

The dynamic duo strikes again!

Not to pile on @KevinO100, but Whitney doesn't prepare one for Rainier. The glacial hazards are very real on Rainier and most people aren't going to want to have someone along on a private climb that isn't familiar with crevasse rescue and self-arrest. Which is a long way of saying that your chances of joining a group on this website are pretty slim. The guide services, however (as @DPS points out), are perfectly suited to your request. All those extra hours you work could easily pay for it

I am very sorry for your loss @mjemond, thanks for those memories.

Click on the file people! That is the best yard sale advert, ever.

I should have added that all epics aren't bad. Classic.

IMO, the WRs of Stuart and Forbidden along with NE ridge of Triumph (Fred lists as 5.6-5.7) are a pretty big step up from the Tooth and the scene of many epics over the years (not that the Tooth isn't!). Beckey route on LB is another good one but a bit tougher (Fred lists as 5.6-5.7) than the Tooth or Ingalls. Go after the gully melts out. Good luck!

But, it is possible that it was done by lucky drunks. Canadian drunks can be very lucky, in my experience.

South Arete of South Early Winter's Spire. Maybe the West Ridge of the North Twin Sister? Ingall's is a good one that you've already mentioned. The NE ridge of Black is very loose compare to the Tooth. This isn't the Sierra, so you choices similar to the Tooth are pretty limited. Most of the Cascades technical peaks involve loose rock, steep snow, brush, and glaciers.

Way to bump this @Szyjakowski!

I lost respect for my climbing ability many years ago.

You are, at least by the "standard" routes (is anybody ever ready for @rat and @lunger routes? Are even they?). Both summits are worthy and should get more attention, if only to get away from the IG masses.

DAMN. So....many....Legends. All in one spot. CC.com lives!

Totally! You could also go with the G7 or G5 from Canon which are a bit cheaper. The key with any decent digital camera is to shoot RAW, and and post process in something like Lightroom. I personally prefer the Canon interface to Sony, but both will be far superior to a phone pic, esp. when zooming.