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Le Piston

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Everything posted by Le Piston

  1. You might also consider the Canon A1000is...light, compact, good pictures, and takes AA batteries. If better quality pictures and features are a priority (and you don't mind the price and extra weight) look at the Canon G10 or G11. I used to have a Sony DSC P200 which took great pictures, but the lens kept getting stuck out. Good Luck!
  2. If you like the "Rocky" theme, you might check out Maynard Ferguson's trumpet version...makes a nice ipod or MP3 download for summit victory celebrations.
  3. Where abouts do you live? Are you looking to do some alpine rock climbing also? I like Mt. Adams, Ruth, Rainier DC, Baker Coleman-Demming, and Eldorado East Ridge for snow/glacier climbs for gaining experience. For alpine rock I like Ingalls, South Early Winters Spire, the Tooth, etc. I hope you can hook up with a more experienced partner to learn and enjoy the mountains with.
  4. If you primarily climb in good weather, a 3 season tent is usually fine...it's what I use for 90% of my outings. But if you are above tree line, in heavier winds/snow/rain a bomber 4 season tent is really nice. As Bug points out, a vestibule is really nice when you are hunkered down waiting out bad weather...for cooking or sitting up. I have an older single wall 4 season tent which runs about 7 pounds with vestibule. I have only had condensation issues using it on sandy areas around water.
  5. I've done the chimney on the south face and the southeast buttress, but not the hand crack. What's it rated? I have wondered more about the west face and it's climbing potential.
  6. I've got to have my MP3 player with me climbing or working out. For me the funk is what cranks me up...Rick James, the Ohio Players, the Commodores, Parliment, etc. Then I wind down with some good blues tunes.
  7. Mattp is right...even if you don't get a long hike in the Olympics (there are some great ones!), Rialto is worth the drive. A short walk from car to beach.
  8. Another vote for the Ptarmigan...but you might look at the Jack Mountain/Devils Dome loop. Crater and Jack could fit your needs for scramble objectives.
  9. I'm into variety, but usually I have Gu and Gatorade on the move, a bagel with ham/cheese/cream cheese and fruit for lunch, and the traditional Ritter Sport chocolate bar on each summit.
  10. Another boot you may consider is the Asolo Expert. It is a little heavier than the La Sportiva, but I have found it just as comfortable and more durable. I still love my Trangos, but this has been a great all-around alpine boot. I also have the Nepals, which I use when it's colder or I need more support for steeper snow/ice...great boots!
  11. I went up loaded for bear (tools, rock and ice pro, partners) Sunday and found little visibility and horrible snow conditions (crust over slippery powder). We called it a day before even getting on the Northeast buttress...should have looked at the North Face, but I figured we'd be digging for pro placement. Hope the conditions improve before my next weekend off.
  12. Please post a TR with current conditions...Thanks!
  13. Just a few other bits of old pro for the collection
  14. It seems to me that it is difficult to find one pack that does everything well for every type of climbing...hence most of us have several in the quiver. For what you describe, I would think the Andinista, BD, or Chaos would suit your needs. I'm a big fan of Wild Things and BD, but there are many other brands out there that make good climbing packs. Another poster mentioned the Osprey Aether 60 (which I also have and like for weekend moderate alpine climbs) If you do harder alpine climbs, it may not be "technical" enough for you...being more of a backpacking pack that works for moderate climbs that doesn't really strip down. Good luck with your choice.
  15. I've been there in the summer, now I HAVE to do it in the winter thanks to you. Great photos...as usual.
  16. I greatly appreciate the update. I've been looking at doing this climb this winter...nice to get the pictures and approach info. Sweet pictures, I'm stoked! Danke Heinrich.
  17. A hint please...Is it in the Julian Alps?
  18. Good object lesson here...choose your partners carefully. Your health and life can depend on it. I learned this the hard way when I was sport climbing and got dropped 25 feet by a guy my regular climbing partner brought along. This guy was supposed to be experienced (my partner hadn't really climbed with him before). I trusted my partner and took his word that this guy was a capable belayer. I said "Take", and the next thing I know I'm dropping to the deck. I broke my pelvis and had internal bleeding. I recovered fully after several months, but it could have been worse. I have also met some great climbers on this site, but you have to use good judgment. If a person has trouble tying his shoes, I'd be worried about tying in to a rope with them. You literally trust your life to the person on the other end of the rope. What to do about "Blanco" I don't know. You wouldn't want someone else to get paired up with a walking objective hazard.
  19. I was up there yesterday. I was alone, so no cool picture of me...hence no claims of fourth or fifth solo ascent. I must confess though, I used aid (poles)...oh the shame!
  20. Nice work! I was wondering if the Zip might be in shape. Thanks for the TR and great pictures.
  21. I'm with Orygun Jim...consider the Tahoma Glacier route. It really is a beautiful side of the mountain.
  22. I only got half way up...got tired of postholing and saw enough of the Northeast Buttress to satisfy me. You have attractive asses for pictures at least (more than I can say for mine!)
  23. I was also up there on the 27th. I went up the slopes below the East face...it was posthole city through surface crust up to knee level. A few other pics added.
  24. For me it was totally unplanned. I was in Canada trying a new route on Rostrum Peak which my partner wanted to try. We had to bail short of the summit, so he suggested two "consolation" peaks nearby...which I only found were first ascents when he told me on the summit. My partner was a professional guide in Canada, so I figured he knew. I'm no high level alpinist, so it was pretty cool for someone like me. I'm with Jens...we are lucky to have some unexplored and unclimbed areas so close. I figure most people try first ascents for the joy of climbing and exploring.
  25. You could also try Marmot in Bellevue and Pro Mountain Sports in the U District. The choices may be more limited, but they often have good deals and Marmot staff and Jim Nelson know their stuff.
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