Le Piston

I greatly appreciate the update. I've been looking at doing this climb this winter...nice to get the pictures and approach info. Sweet pictures, I'm stoked! Danke Heinrich.

A hint please...Is it in the Julian Alps?

Good object lesson here...choose your partners carefully. Your health and life can depend on it. I learned this the hard way when I was sport climbing and got dropped 25 feet by a guy my regular climbing partner brought along. This guy was supposed to be experienced (my partner hadn't really climbed with him before). I trusted my partner and took his word that this guy was a capable belayer. I said "Take", and the next thing I know I'm dropping to the deck. I broke my pelvis and had internal bleeding. I recovered fully after several months, but it could have been worse. I have also met some great climbers on this site, but you have to use good judgment. If a person has trouble tying his shoes, I'd be worried about tying in to a rope with them. You literally trust your life to the person on the other end of the rope. What to do about "Blanco" I don't know. You wouldn't want someone else to get paired up with a walking objective hazard.

I was up there yesterday. I was alone, so no cool picture of me...hence no claims of fourth or fifth solo ascent. I must confess though, I used aid (poles)...oh the shame!

Nice work! I was wondering if the Zip might be in shape. Thanks for the TR and great pictures.

I'm with Orygun Jim...consider the Tahoma Glacier route. It really is a beautiful side of the mountain.

I only got half way up...got tired of postholing and saw enough of the Northeast Buttress to satisfy me. You have attractive asses for pictures at least (more than I can say for mine!)

I was also up there on the 27th. I went up the slopes below the East face...it was posthole city through surface crust up to knee level. A few other pics added.

For me it was totally unplanned. I was in Canada trying a new route on Rostrum Peak which my partner wanted to try. We had to bail short of the summit, so he suggested two "consolation" peaks nearby...which I only found were first ascents when he told me on the summit. My partner was a professional guide in Canada, so I figured he knew. I'm no high level alpinist, so it was pretty cool for someone like me. I'm with Jens...we are lucky to have some unexplored and unclimbed areas so close. I figure most people try first ascents for the joy of climbing and exploring.

You could also try Marmot in Bellevue and Pro Mountain Sports in the U District. The choices may be more limited, but they often have good deals and Marmot staff and Jim Nelson know their stuff.

I don't mind the long slog, but I can't get the time off...Sorry! Good luck.

I'd be interested if I can swing the time off and am in shape enough. PM me with your plans

If I have to avoid Nelson, my pick would be Mt. Assiniboine, North Ridge (II, 5.5) It doesn't have the best rock and the approach on the Gmoser Highway is downright scary, but it is a beautiful peak in a gorgeous area.

Luckily I've never had frostbite, but when I climbed Monte Rosa my boots were wet and it was well below freezing. I had numbness and some pain in some of my toes for weeks after. I had the older (sans Gore-tex liner) La Sportiva Trangos. I'm pretty sure I had immersion foot.

I've only had an encounter with a Bigfoot faker. When I worked for the Forest Service there was a guy who had casts of footprints which he used to keep on the window sill of the store he worked at. I later saw him in the papers claiming a "sighting". It would be cool if someone found a real one with conclusive proof.

A couple pictures to give you an idea of Source Lake and Mountain Loop Highway (Big 4 Mountain) in winter. Very little avalanche hazard and pretty flat going.

Glad you made it! Sounds like quite the adventure. I sure wouldn't want to be roped to inexperienced folks on a glaciated peak! Did you try the Cui (not sure of spelling)? That was the only thing that made me sick down there. Whole roast guinea pig is pretty greasy stuff! Glad also the Aussie with HACE symptoms was okay. In my experience even the sickest Aussie will recover for beer.

About ten years ago going in to climb the Triple Couloirs route on Dragontail, I had a whole tree come down about 100 feet from me on the approach. It sure got my attention! Certainly, you must be aware of all possible hazards and keep your radar tuned to conditions around you...snowpack, rocks, wind, crevasses, weather, etc. If you are in trees with a lot of dead limbs on a windy day, watch your topknot...or wait for better weather.

I totally agree with montypiton. Although I never used his system on a big peak like Aconcagua, I have used my FF Rock Wren with a belay jacket on modest peaks like Baker and Glacier with good results. I had an elephants foot bag a long time ago, and had "gaposis" problems...cold around the midsection. I relegated that bag to my children when they were smaller. I have also used the Montbell Alpine Down Hugger and been impressed with the warmth to weight...the elastic seems to help minimize the air space your body needs to warm.

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I agree. I've been able to take my 4 wheel drive vehicle on snow that turns other cars back. I've hiked that road in winter...makes a much longer approach and hike out for climbs in that area.

Congrats! Glad you made it. I hope you took pictures that we can see in a TR.

I'm in line with everyone else. You don't absolutely need a 4 season tent...as long as it is secured well. I often take down the poles and weight mine while climbing. I saw a North Face VE 24 tent blow toward a crevasse with a child in it up at Camp Muir...saved by one of the rangers. I'm a big Black Diamond tent fan also (have the Firstlight and love it), but many other very good tents will work fine. Consider how much room you want vs. weight to carry (will you carry over?) A good nights sleep and sitting out weather with some room is sometimes worth the extra weight.

Thanks for the memories and wicked cool pictures. That was an awesome trip! It warmed and stoked my rained on blue heart.

If I'd known you wanted the West Ridge, I also could have included these. Congrats to Dennyt! That is a nice shot.