Le Piston

Mt. Louis looks really cool...it was raining when I was there and didn't climb it. Another climb to consider in the Rogers Pass area is Mt. Sir Donald...long mid-5th class multipitch climb on quartzite (much nicer than a lot of Canadian Rockies choss). There is another nice peak next door called Uto Peak. Beautiful area.

Can't speak for all of it, but I soloed a cliff there a few years back and remember a loaf of bread sized rock coming off in my hands. It's a beautiful area to hike, but I wasn't impressed with the rock quality for climbing. Enjoy your trip!

When I went to do that route a couple of years ago, the rangers were actually kind enough to give us a lift in...saved us a couple miles of hiking. Sorry you didn't summit, but I too have bailed due to adverse conditions...wise man!

I agree...nice pictures. It brings back great memories. I think this and Forbidden are a couple of the best moderate alpine rock climbs in Washington. Don't hesitate to do a full report though. It's nice to hear about your impressions, experiences, and conditions of the approach/route. Good work!

I did the Northeast ridge about 4 years ago. I'd be up for a repeat. I only have weekends (except when I'm on call at work) off and a Canada trip Aug. 15-23. PM me if you're interested.

Sorry, the listing twice is just sleep deprivation. I list it not as a favorite, just an option to consider. I'd take Sahale or Black Peak over Mix Up any day.

You can't beat Forbidden as a great climb with killer views. You might also look into Black Peak, Sahale, Mix Up, Eldorado, Mix Up, and Dorado Needle. Check some of the TR's and pics and see if they meet your criteria. Cheers!

Sepp and Barb run the lodge. Sepp usually talks to the climbers about conditions and is a good resource. You can call him (if he's not running around) at (403) 678-2883 or e-mail him at info@assiniboinelodge.com If you are planning on staying at the Hind hut or staying at Lake Magog (camping or huts) he can set you up with reservations and information. Enjoy the trip!

I climbed Magic a few weeks ago (check TR Spider/Magic) It was a fun 4th class scramble. You could easily add Hurry Up or Mix Up depending on how much time you have...beautiful area. Enjoy!

I tried to respond earlier, but I couldn't access CC.com site until today. Sorry for the delay. Here are a couple of pictures that I hope will help. You might also try contacting Haley Sierra, who was attempting Formidable when we were there.

First off, this is a beautiful mountain and well worth the effort. I climbed it 2 years ago. There was almost no snow on the North Ridge, so ice axe and crampons stayed at the hut. The route is mostly 4th class with loose rock and plenty of exposure with maybe 2 pitches that we protected (lower to mid 5th class), which braver souls may have just climbed through. We downclimbed most of the route with a couple rappels with a single rope. The Gmoser highway does suck big time and was hairier than the climb...but I've had worse choss here in Washington. The lodge does in fact have lots of good stuff. You can get beer/wine, food, showers. I would suggest arranging reservations with Sepp for any hut or lodge accomidations. PM me if you have more specific questions and check out my TR from 2007. Cheers!

I don't know about DVD's, but do you know anyone that could take you to a climbing gym to work on belaying? There is nothing like hands on to learn belaying.

You could also check out peaks in the Ptarmigan Traverse area from Cascade Pass/Cache Col. I believe that is outside of the permit zone and has some great peaks...ie Formidable, Dome, Mix Up, etc. Check out some of the recent TR's. Good Luck and Great Climbing!

Another Osprey pack you might check out is the Aether. I've got the Aether 60, which works well for me for multiday climbing trips. It's pretty light, very comfortable with a 40 pound plus load, and climbs reasonably well. Lots of features I like. If you need something bigger, it comes in a 70 and even bigger volumes. It may not be as "technical" as the CCW, BD, Wild Things, etc packs, but a good all around multiday pack. Good luck with your quest.

You guys sure deserve some hardman points with that trip! Beautiful pictures and nice TR...one of the best I've seen yet. Sweet climbing and scenery for all the work getting there yes?

Spectacular pictures. Makes me wish I had a full week off 2 weeks ago...I would have loved to climb Formidable, Dome and others instead of just Spider and Magic. Looks like you had an awesome trip...keep up the good work.

When I was up doing Dorado Needle a few weeks ago Klawatti wasn't looking like that schrund would go much longer...a lot less snow than last year. If you haven't done Klawatti before, it is a fun climb with great views also. Sorry you didn't have time for it this time, but it's more fun when the snow is in shape.

Way to get it done! Nice pictures and stout climbing. Did someone actually brush out the approach trail? When I tried to go up there last summer we lost the trail in dense foilage. Damn! I've got to figure a way to get time off now and head back up there for Spickard.

I don't know if I'd do that route with a partner, let alone solo. Strong work. I don't have any beer drinkers, but I'd buy you a real one.

Another view. Looked like a hump to me.

I just know that I perform better when I'm hydrated. I tried the "preloading" in the Alps a few years ago and found it took a while for my system to get used to doing without as much fluid on the climbs. I have found that hydrating before, during (with my Platypus hoser filled with Gatorade or other electrolyte sport drink), and after is best for my performance. I save the alcohol for post climb hydration.

Unless you plan on doing only solo trips, I would suggest an ultralight 2 person tent. This gives you more room and options for little more weight. My BD Firstlight with poles and stakes weighs just over 3 pounds. I find it a lot more comfortable than my bivy sack (2 pounds and not much smaller in the pack) I have been roasted in hot conditions because of lack of ventilation in a bivy sack and changing clothes is an adventure in stormy weather. There are probably nice single person tents out there, but consider how much more room (for another person or gear?) you would have for a little more weight. Good luck in your decision.

Outstanding pictures man! The rock looks pretty sound...a far cry to what I found on Spider a couple weeks ago. I'm jealous. Isn't that a beautiful area. Great TR...keep em coming.

Sweet pictures! That is a great looking climb. Thanks for the nice TR. I especially liked the view of the Pickets.

Nice work Haley...glad your determination won out. I've been trying to get Rod to climb this for years. Maybe I can use your success as motivation for him. Still planning for a rematch with Formidable?