Le Piston

I love Revelstoke. It is a fun town and lots of great climbing nearby (i.e. Mt. Sir Donald). The Icefall Brook area near Golden is still being developed for ice climbing...just a real bugger to get in to, but beautiful.

Thanks Goatboy...that is an awesome film. I got it on a Blueray disc. The cinematography and climbing sequences were impressive. It was certainly one of the better additions to my film library. My only mistake was watching it with my wife...now I have to negotiate even harder for my climbing trips!

I used to love Zeke's, but it isn't what it used to be...sad to say. Here are a few other suggestions: For Mount Hood, I found Wall Street Pizza in Sandy...looks like a dive, but great pizza. Issaquah, 12th Ave. Cafe (especially for breakfast) and Triple X for burgers. Rainier...Copper Creek Restraunt. Kirkland, the Brown Bag Cafe...another great breakfast spot. I'm with Telemarker for South in Leavenworth...try the Big Wet Monster Burrito! I still like Gustav's for burgers and halibut fish and chips with a well earned beer.

Never used the MH EV2, but it looks like a nice tent. Like MountainmanDoug, I am a big fan of single wall Toddtex tents. My main climbing partner has a Bibler and I have an older Sierra Designs tent that I still use. Both are bomber, easy to set up, and relatively light. I tend to use the vestibule only in winter. I also have the BD Firstlight and love it...but tend to use it when the weather forecast is solid. I have only had condensation issues once on a sandy riverside and once at O degrees F. It has seen me through rain and snow (not a deluge) just fine and is super light and easy to set up. Just not a lot of room. Otherwise it is my absolute favorite tent. There are lots of nice tents out there...just need to match your needs to the features and price range. Good luck!

As I've said before...you guys are animals! Sweet pictures and great TR. Some of us had to work this weekend, so thanks for the vicarious dose of alpine life. I'm hoping to get back out there again in the next couple weekends (weather permitting) and I'll PM you to make good on the beer offer. Cheers!

Personally, I like to pay attention to the climbing and my partner on the climb. I save the music for the slog out and then I tend toward classic funk (Parliment, Isley Brothers, Average White Band) and rock (Led Zeppelin, Steppenwolf, Santana). I have some classical, Celtic, and jazz for in the tent relaxification.

It has been almost 2 weeks since I was up there (and there was a dump of snow since then) but it was soft snow and postholing up the slopes to the glacier. I doubt it will have gotten too hard, but you never know. You should have great weather until Sunday. Have a great time!

Another idea is to take that pack up to Camp Muir...you can get good training in and get a feel for your performance slogging up the snow at higher altitude. Hopefully you will be in shape, stay hydrated, and have luck with the weather. I wish you well!

Nice work you guys. Great pictures too! I enjoyed running into you up there. I envied you your skis...the snow up from the lake to the moraine was posthole city by the time we got up there for those of us doomed to slog on boots. Thanks for the advice on the Enchantment Ale...I half hoped to see you at Gustav's to buy you that promised beer..perhaps another time. You guys are animals!

I'm with you...the Beal Stinger was the best alpine rope I ever used. I haven't seen any lately or I'd buy it instantly. I've also had good luck with PMI and Mammut ropes.

I haven't bivied on that knoll, but Kool Aid Lake is not far from the Red Ledges and had running water (see picture). I remember seeing a couple spots past the Red Ledges with running water. Hope that helps

Many thanks for the update...now if I can just get a weather window! Cheers!

Thanks for the TR and great pictures. I think I only saw one picture with avvy sign...the snow must have been pretty consolidated? Would a non-skier need snowshoes for the approach or did you guys make a nice trail for others to follow (and bless your efforts)? I ask because I might be headed up there Friday. Thanks!

I tend to agree with Summitchaser...for a tent primarily for car camping, you don't really need a single wall tent. A roomy 2 person with a fly that is light enough for backbacking is the ticket. On fine nights leave the fly off and enjoy the stars safe from the bugs. In the rain, a waterproof fly will keep you cozy. There are dozens of tents that will fit the bill. Look at Sierra Designs, Big Agnes, and even REI. You can probably get a decent tent on sale. I had an REI Half Dome that worked well for me for many years. My main tent now is a Black Diamond Firstlight, but I don't take it car camping ever. I have a big dome tent for that...comfy!

I dropped by Pro Mountain Sports yesterday, and Mr. Nelson said he was sold out and not sure if he would reorder. Sorry Layton...at least Yellow Hardman gave you good service.

Canada has some great climbing. Not just ice, but some sweet alpine objectives as well. It is well worth the drive! Hope you are having good times Dane.

Thanks greatly. My friend is thinking of opting for Colchuck NEB Couloir anyway. Now if the weather will just cooperate. Cheers!

How thin was the transition...like dry toolin' thin? I ask as an old climbing buddy is coming in to town who would like a rematch with the TC (our previous try had a nasty warm snap and too much rock and ice was falling). Thanks for the TR, great pictures, and route beta!

My partner has one, but I doubt he'd part with it. He still uses an MSR helmet and has fleece from climbing Denali a few decades ago. It is a bit smelly and tattered, with lots of duct tape (see picture) I like the Z-rest myself.

Not only tasty, but you can use the can for pro in a pinch (I have only read of one instance of it actually being done). I have that same piton and have used it to spread cream cheese and peanut butter.

Them is some sweet pictures! Who are you, Ansel Adams the second? I used to work up there in the Forest Service...I don't remember it looking THAT nice when I climbed it.

Sorry, just a little brain fart...it's the problem with getting older. Glad to hear...Formidable is a pretty cool looking climb.

Anyone like "Clean Break" in the morning?

I also live in Kent, but not available 24/7...got the wife and full-time job plus on call. I'm interested in finding other people to climb with when my regular partner is not available. Sounds like we have climbed many of the same things. I no longer climb 5.10 rock, but like alpine climbing and moderate trad rack. I've got vehicle and all the gear. PM me if you are interested.

Nice work Valerie! This has only been on my radar for the last 3 years. My problem has always been having the right combination of days off work, partner available, and route in shape. This weekend I've been on-call for work wishing I were out in this perfect weather. Glad you were out climbing! Are you still thinking about a rematch with Redoubt this summer?