Le Piston

A lot of good points made so far. I am one of the unlucky "dropped" climbers thanks to an inattentive belayer using a Gri-Gri. Instead of being lowered after finishing a sport route, I found myself in free fall and was relatively lucky "only" having a broken pelvis and internal bleeding. You have got to have a trustworthy, skilled, attentive belayer...whatever type of device you use. Your anchor needs to be bomber. You should know how to use a Muenter Hitch in case you lose your device. You should also know how to tie off and escape your belay/anchor. The climber also needs to give the belayer cues and commands to help them do a good job...though sometimes a challenge when it's windy or you've run the rope out a ways or around some terrain.

Thanks so much for the great TR and sweeeeet pictures! Way to get it done up there.

Thanks for the great TR and pictures. It really brought back good memories of climbing with old friends on sunny summer days. It's just too bad the approach hike is now the crux!

I'm with you...I like to have the full field of vision. I like my eyes too much so I go with quality protection. My personal favorite is the Julbo Advance, but there are plenty of fine wrap-around polarized sunglasses out there.

Nice pictures! Thanks for the update. I love that area (except the roads).

The Mountain Hardwear hooded Compressor jacket would seem to fit your criteria. I have a similar jacket made by REI (new version called the Spruce I believe) that I really like similar to the Compressor. It is under a pound, warmer than you'd expect for the weight, Primaloft insulation. I use it on almost all of my non-winter climbs.

You might also look at the Crater/Devils Dome loop in the North Cascades. I think it meets most, if not all of your criteria.

I've got some more gear for you if you're still distributing to those in need. PM me if you are interested.

Good point about carrying something not full strength, but I only use it for racking ice screws...not clipping, and then on climbs close to the trailhead. They are certainly stronger than the plastic racking biners. If I'm doing a multiday trip, everything is full strength in case I have to bail.

Also dating myself...I still use these. I think they work just fine and they won't break. Nice to see someone else has some gear as old as mine.

One spot I'll share is 29 Pines along the North Fork Teanaway river road...access for Ingalls and some routes on Stuart/Sherpa. It's free, though a bit dusty and open.

Yes! Thanks for keeping us up to date on the progress. Now I just want a little cold clear weather to firm things up there.

I've never bought boots online...for me fit is first priority and I hate mailing stuff back. You might consider going to Marmot, Second Ascent, Feathered Friends (as needtoclimb suggested), or Pro Mountain Sports. I've been fortunate finding boots there on sale or even used. I love the Trangos, but I have also had good experience with the Asolo Expert GV...very comfy on long approaches and climbs well. Deals are out there, you just have to keep looking for a good fit for your feet and climbing needs. I often buy boots when stores have their 20% or more sales so when my current boots wear out, I've got replacements ready. Good luck!

We went up mid August. Our original plan had been Robson, but the foot of new snow on the Kain Face changed that, so we headed to the Columbia Icefields area... probably much too late in the year for Columbia. Trainwreck could give you more up to date information (How are you doing Grant? Thanks for the help last year!) I'm planning on another foray to Robson, but if conditions are bad again, we'll be back in your neck of the woods. Cheers!

I went up to climb this last summer and it was crevasse city...big yawkers. It sounds like late Spring/early Summer is the best time, and bring skis. As trainwreck states, the Saskatchewan glacier is longer, but less technical. There is supposed to be an approach from the Bush River road (especially for the North Ridge). I don't have fond memories of driving this road...long, dusty, and bumpy. Good luck!

I love Revelstoke. It is a fun town and lots of great climbing nearby (i.e. Mt. Sir Donald). The Icefall Brook area near Golden is still being developed for ice climbing...just a real bugger to get in to, but beautiful.

Thanks Goatboy...that is an awesome film. I got it on a Blueray disc. The cinematography and climbing sequences were impressive. It was certainly one of the better additions to my film library. My only mistake was watching it with my wife...now I have to negotiate even harder for my climbing trips!

I used to love Zeke's, but it isn't what it used to be...sad to say. Here are a few other suggestions: For Mount Hood, I found Wall Street Pizza in Sandy...looks like a dive, but great pizza. Issaquah, 12th Ave. Cafe (especially for breakfast) and Triple X for burgers. Rainier...Copper Creek Restraunt. Kirkland, the Brown Bag Cafe...another great breakfast spot. I'm with Telemarker for South in Leavenworth...try the Big Wet Monster Burrito! I still like Gustav's for burgers and halibut fish and chips with a well earned beer.

Never used the MH EV2, but it looks like a nice tent. Like MountainmanDoug, I am a big fan of single wall Toddtex tents. My main climbing partner has a Bibler and I have an older Sierra Designs tent that I still use. Both are bomber, easy to set up, and relatively light. I tend to use the vestibule only in winter. I also have the BD Firstlight and love it...but tend to use it when the weather forecast is solid. I have only had condensation issues once on a sandy riverside and once at O degrees F. It has seen me through rain and snow (not a deluge) just fine and is super light and easy to set up. Just not a lot of room. Otherwise it is my absolute favorite tent. There are lots of nice tents out there...just need to match your needs to the features and price range. Good luck!

As I've said before...you guys are animals! Sweet pictures and great TR. Some of us had to work this weekend, so thanks for the vicarious dose of alpine life. I'm hoping to get back out there again in the next couple weekends (weather permitting) and I'll PM you to make good on the beer offer. Cheers!

Personally, I like to pay attention to the climbing and my partner on the climb. I save the music for the slog out and then I tend toward classic funk (Parliment, Isley Brothers, Average White Band) and rock (Led Zeppelin, Steppenwolf, Santana). I have some classical, Celtic, and jazz for in the tent relaxification.

It has been almost 2 weeks since I was up there (and there was a dump of snow since then) but it was soft snow and postholing up the slopes to the glacier. I doubt it will have gotten too hard, but you never know. You should have great weather until Sunday. Have a great time!

Another idea is to take that pack up to Camp Muir...you can get good training in and get a feel for your performance slogging up the snow at higher altitude. Hopefully you will be in shape, stay hydrated, and have luck with the weather. I wish you well!

Nice work you guys. Great pictures too! I enjoyed running into you up there. I envied you your skis...the snow up from the lake to the moraine was posthole city by the time we got up there for those of us doomed to slog on boots. Thanks for the advice on the Enchantment Ale...I half hoped to see you at Gustav's to buy you that promised beer..perhaps another time. You guys are animals!

I'm with you...the Beal Stinger was the best alpine rope I ever used. I haven't seen any lately or I'd buy it instantly. I've also had good luck with PMI and Mammut ropes.