Le Piston

Trip: Woolley and Diadem - Diadem SE Face variation and Woolley N. Ridge Date: 8/16/2010 Trip Report: After my friend Rod hurt his hand on the approach last summer, we considered this a grudge match...we had to come back and climb these peaks! So, after the frigid Sunwapta river crossing (it doesn't get any better with repetition) we hiked up Woolley creek to the basin below the two peaks. We set up camp in a nice rock walled spot (same as last year) and went up to the glacier to recon the route. Our plan was to do the Southeast face, which takes a snow gulley all the way to the summit, but there were big cornices at the top. So, we decided to climb a gulley between the Woolley-Diadem col and the summit. We arose at 0400 and joined up with Dow Williams and Ferenc Jasco who were climbing the same route. After navigating through some crevasses on the lower glacier, we started up the SE face gulley. The gulley never got above 45 degrees and the snow was just soft enough for good step kicking. At the top of the gulley it was icy and a bit overhanging, so we trended left and pulled onto the Diadem summit ridge. A short snow slog led to the rocky summit scramble with views of nearby Woolley, Alberta, and the Icefields peaks.We descended scree and snow down to the col and headed up the long North ridge up Woolley.We enjoyed the views from the summit and a traditional Ritter Sport chocolate bar to celebrate.Then it was back to the col and descend snow to what is described as easy scree and ledge scramble down (Canadian for loose and hard to find) which lead back to the lower snow gulley. I punched into one crevasse on the way down from the col, which Dow and Ferenc missed unroped (lucky). It was a really nice climb and fantastic views (unfortunately I can't seem to download all the scenic panorama shots). It was nice to be able to bag two 11,000 foot peaks in one day in such a beautiful area. Unfortunately, that night smoke from forest fires filled the whole Columbia Icefields area. We decided to head back home instead of climbing more Canadian peaks. This is definitely one of the easier approaches to Canadian 11,000ers and has incredible views of Mt. Alberta, North Twin, and surrounding peaks. Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. I was glad to have two tools for the gulley. We took a 30 meter rope, a picket each (not used) and a few ice screws (not used). Approach Notes: The Sunwapta river is bitterly cold, but didn't get above thigh level (or crotch for shorter partners). The trail beside Woolley creek is well cairned all the way up to the basin near the glacier. The descent route is a bit hard to follow.

Thanks...appreciate all the hard work on making Cascade Climbers such a great site!

I don't know if this is a viable option for you, but I do a lot of training hikes up Mt. Si and other trails with my weight primarily as water (in bottles or Dromidary bags) in your 40-50 pound range. I start with 25-30 pounds and work up. I dump the water before heading downhill (easier on my old knees). It really helps my strength and endurance for climbs and beats the gym or home for fresh air and scenery (if I can't go on a climb in the first place...the best training after all). Good luck with your first climb!

I've been using G7 3-in-one instant coffee and the Via for that cup of ambition in the mountains. The G7 comes with cream and sugar...just add hot water. One packet is 16 grams and 60 calories. I've found the G7 at asian and discount food stores...not Starbucks, but plenty tasty for a non-coffee snob.

How do I contact the CEO? I see other people doing trip reports and getting their pictures in just fine...like I used to be able to do. What has changed that won't allow me to upload pictures?

Beautiful route and pics! I also have 3 kids and totally relate. You aren't too old to enjoy trips like this...it's what keeps us alive. Being slower just gives you more time to take it all in. Keep on rockin'!

Strong work guys. My partner has been trying to talk me into this climb for this summer. It strikes me as an impressive peak with more than it's fair share of objective hazards and route finding problems. When I was doing a solo trip up Sahale two weekends ago I heard numerous rock and ice sloughs off J-burg...makes you think! I'm drooling in anticipation over Steph's pictures. Maybe I can get inspired to go veggie climbing yet!

Until you design and market this boot (I'll buy a pair!) I guess I will continue to utilize the multiple boot/shoe approach. I find that if the climbing is lower 5th class, I use my La Sportiva Trangos. If there is little or no snow on the approach and the rock climbing is up to about 5.8ish, I use my Guide Tennies. Anything more difficult I go for the real rock shoes (Mythos, Huecos, or my multi-resoled Kaukulators).

Thanks...That worked to clear the queue, but again when I tried to upload a single picture, it said successfully uploaded and nothing shows up either on my picture gallery or on "alpine climbing" which was the other category I tried. Where are the pictures going? Suggestions?

I'm having similar problems. I have a queue full of pictures to upload, but I get the error code or dreaded squirrel when I try to get them into my gallery. I've tried going through the Gallery and TR photo icon, nothing is working. I used to have no problems uploading pictures. I have several "tickets" for help, but still unable to add pictures. Help!

I am totally jealous! I was supposed to be doing this exact trip, but my wife wanted a family trip. So while you had this beautiful climb, I was sweating in Washington DC. Nice TR and great pictures. I'll hopefully get there some day. Thanks for the post.

It ain't perfect, but what tent is? TMO is right, you trade space and wind stability for weight and convenience. As for snow or other unwelcome debris, you can lift the entire tent (door down) and shake out whatever is on the floor. I had my Firstlight almost blow away on the Eldorado Glacier, but luckily had tied it to a deadman. I also love this tent, but try to take it for longer trips where the weather is supposed to be good. I have used it in snow, rain, wind, etc. and it has held up just fine. It helps if you really like your partner...very snug.

I have to agree with Denalidave...Prusik West Ridge is one of the best moderate alpine rock climbs in the state. You might also look at (as Summitchaser said) Liberty Bell (Beckey Route), Ingalls Peak, Stuart West Ridge, Dorado Needle, and Dragontail's Serpentine arete. These have been among my favorites for decent rock, great views, and moderate difficulty.

This confirms my suspicions about the NeoAir. I'm a gear junky...especially if it's lighter or better than what I already have. I hopped on the NeoAir at REI and couldn't immagine it standing up to much abuse, so I passed on it. My Prolite 3 is pretty light and much more robust...I've never had a leak yet. Thanks for the post!

Nice work there! Glad to see someone was able to download pictures aplenty for their TR. Sounds like similar snow to what I had over the weekend...my boots were pretty wet at the end of the trip over Snowfield way. Nice TR and great pictures...thanks for sharing.

Sweeeet pictures! I've been trying to talk my wife into letting me take an extended trip there for several years. Thanks for the stoke. I'm even more determined!

Trip: Snowfield Peak and Pyramid Peak - Standard Date: 6/18/2010 Trip Report: This trail report will be without my usual lots of pictures, owing to a frustrating glitch in the Gallery uploading process. With a weather forecast of rain all weekend, I figured on getting a good workout and spending a lot of time inside my new tent reading. Luckily the weatherman is often in error, as turned out for our trip to Snowfield Peak. My friend Rod and I got our permits at Marblemount from a ranger who obviously thought we were nuts to go up with predicted 30-70% chance of rain all weekend and headed for the Pyramid Lake trailhead. We had one sprinkle en route to our camp on the toe of Colonial Glacier. The sun came out and we set up camp, ate, and dashed up to Pyramid Peak figuring to take advantage of the break in the weather. The snow was pretty mushy with some postholing up to the knees. The views of Baker, Shuksan, Jack, and the Pickets were a bonus. The weather Saturday was perfect, so we headed for our main objective...Snowfield Peak. We again ran into soft snow crossing the Colonial and Neve glaciers, making for some character building postholing. We went up the Northwest face on snow up to 50 degrees to the West ridge. The rock was partly covered in snow, so we opted to head via a ledge to the Southwest face and a snow ramp to the summit. At this point the clouds were piling in, so we took a few hasty pictures and headed down the way we came, placing a couple pickets to protect the steep runout section. About half way back on the Neve glacier, we found ourselves in fog/cloud with visibility of about 50 feet. We had another rain shower heading up to the col between the Neve and Colonial glaciers, but got back to camp dry. At this point the weatherman was proved correct and it rained on and off all night...spoiling any further peak bagging hopes for Colonial, Paul Bunyan's Stump, or any other close by peaks. The hike out Sunday proved "interesting", as our tracks were mostly gone and the trail is indistinct at the best of times. We ended up doing some good ole North Cascades bushwhacking to get back to the main trail through lovely wet slide alder, devils club, vine maple, etc. This was a great area, with awesome views and lots of climbing objectives to choose from. I'd love to go back in nice weather. Gear Notes: We took 2 pickets (used), 33 meter rope, standard axes, crampons (not used), small rock rack for Pinacle and Paul Bunyans Stump (alas not used). Approach Notes: Ran into snow at 4200 feet. The trail is hard to follow. We followed trail to a knoll approx. 5600 feet elevation with cairns at the top which led to fairly steep cliff. We bypassed this easily on the way out contouring on snow on the west side of this knoll.

I have taken several "new to climbing" friends up Sahale. Not technically difficult, moderate approach on good trail, great views of future objectives...check it out. Cheers!

Some of us use computers at work to access Cascadeclimbers, and don't get a choice of browsers.

I have some Trango aluminum crampons, and have been happy with them for the snow only non-technical stuff. I got them with rubber anti-bots that work just fine. That said, I would tend to go with the Grivel's as probably the better all around aluminum crampon in your field. I have the steel Air Techs and love how they perform for what I climb and if I had it to do over again, would have purchased the Air Tech Lights. Hope this helps...Cheers.

I know of two you might like: Bugaboo Rock: A Climbing Guide by Randall Green and Joe Bensen. The Andes-A Guide for Climbers by John Biggar. Also, you can get good information from Summitpost.org on climbs around the world. Good luck!

I had considered this very approach for Prusik several years ago, but ended up doing the Aasgard pass grind. Fun climb eh? Thanks for the pictures and TR!

If you plan to stick to mostly sport or trad short approach climbs where weight doesn't matter much...I'd go with the beefier rope. If you plan on doing alpine rock climbs, the 9.7mm should give you plenty of durability and save precious ounces in your pack. That is assuming you are only able to afford one rope. Cheers!

I believe what you are looking for is the East Ridge route (for descent). If memory serves there is a good description with a diagram in the guidebook "Climbing Washington's Mountains". Have a great time!

I made the mistake of letting a friend of my main climbing partner at the time belay me without ever having climbed with him before. My buddy told me he was very experienced...obviously not with a Gri-Gri. Lesson learned...the hard way.