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Le Piston

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Everything posted by Le Piston

  1. I have the 60 version of the Osprey Aether. It is by far one of the most comfortable packs I have owned. It climbs well and has all the features I need. I can understand wanting to save some coin, but quality and durability save you more in the long run. Good luck in your quest for a good pack and on Aconcagua!
  2. I'm a big fan of softshell pants for most climbing endeavors, but if you need to pass through wet brush or hard rain, the gore-tex really comes in handy. The softshell sheds snow and light precip just fine, but I like having a backup of another layer that is warmer, waterproof, and windproof...especially on longer trips farther from the car. The extra weight seems worth it to me.
  3. Sweet pictures. I can't believe I was up there earlier this summer...same route. I never considered Spickard for a Fall climb. I see you also enjoyed the variety of fungus along the trail. How was the passage of the falls?
  4. That is a sweet shot of my favorite bird. Hope I don't get banned from Spray for saying something nice.
  5. I have to agree with cbcbd, it doesn't leave you much time to acclimatize. I remember flying into Quito and just taking a couple days to adjust to that altitude. I took hikes on other mountains to acclimatize. It may have changed since the mid 90's, but arranging transport in and out of Cotopaxi park took some doing. The bus ride from Quito was an adventure in itself. The local guides usually have jeeps and can guard your camp, and weren't too expensive. I hope you have a great trip!
  6. You might also check into the American Alpine Club. Members get enrolled in a Trailhead Rescue service with Global Rescue (which I luckily haven't had to try out) which can be upgraded to full rescue and evacuation coverage up to $500,000. I don't know all the details, but I'm sure their website has all that. You can get discounts on hut fees (came in handy in Switzerland), and other benifits. I believe UW and Virginia Mason offer Travel Medicine clinics also that can be good resources for immunizations and such before traveling overseas. I used one of the travel clinics before going to South America and they got me all the shots I needed, told me what health risks to be aware of, and had state department reports on the countries I was going to visit. Cheers, and enjoy your overseas adventures!
  7. The warmest mitts I found were made by Granite Gear, but I don't think they make 'em anymore. You might try some of the chemical heat packs in your current mitts to make them work better in high altitude/extreme cold. I have the Mercury Mitts and have been pretty happy with them in winter here, but haven't used them over 16,000 feet, so not a good reference.
  8. Here's one more I like...heading up to climb Lyskamm in the Swiss Alps
  9. Exactly!, just between the false and true summits.
  10. I agree with genepires, shortstow, and pdk. Sound wisdom. One other bit of advice...watch your layers and keep the sweating down, which it seems is the main culprit. I see this all the time, people start out with lots of clothes on in winter and don't shed layers until they've soaked them. Keep an eye on your body heat production. You lose more heat when wet through evaporation and convection. Winter is fun...if you stay relatively dry.
  11. Although I love my Firstlight, I usually use a larger, warmer tent in the winter. After massive seam sealing, I have only had condensation problems in the Firstlight camped on sand near a lake in clouds/fog. The vestibule on my Sierra Designs Summit allows me to cook or dig a pit in the snow and dress sitting in the vestibule...quite the luxury. I've used the Firstlight in snow in Spring, but like the breathability and warmth of the Gore Tex tent in winter conditions
  12. Red Mountain also makes a nice winter trip.
  13. Like Danielpatricksmith I too really like the Black Diamond packs for climbing. I have also come to like the Osprey Aether 60 as an all around weekend climbing pack. It is really comfortable carrying up to 40 pounds of gear, is stable, and is reasonably light. It isn't as "technical" as some of the others, but works well for me. It all depends on your needs.
  14. There are plenty of us climbers out here who are...shall we say less than svelte. While it's true that the less extra weight you have to lug around on your body the better, you can still have all the strength and cardiovascular endurance you need to climb well. The more you climb and the more you enjoy climbing I bet you will find plenty of motivation to work out, watch the diet, and work toward your goals. If I have a big climbing trip planned...it does more for motivating me to drop the Nachos and Cuba Libres and head up Mt. Si 20 times with a 40 plus pound pack than all the nagging my wife can dish out. Keep up the good work.
  15. I fractured the same bone in my left foot about 7 years ago after a fall in the mountains...between that and the broken tailbone it was a long slow hike out. It took about a month before the pain went away. I had to work, so no time to stay off it and let it heal. I guess it depends on the degree of fracture, swelling, your healing, etc. I'd use the cold beer to ice it while elevating the foot, then drink it...multipurpose therapy. I hope you heal quickly and get to play with the new toys!
  16. I also like the Cosley/Houston book, but got a lot out of John Long's "Climbing Anchors" for setting pro and anchors.
  17. Everyone has listed great books. My own favorites would be: One Man's Mountains by Tom Patey The Burgess Book of Lies Extreme Alpinism Summit-photos by Vittorio Sella K2 The Savage Mountain Starlight and Storm Touching the Void Eiger Dreams The White Spider H.W. Tilman-The Seven Mountain Travels
  18. I love this climb in the Fall. Thanks for the conditions update and TR. Nice to know someone was out enjoying the hills while I worked...DAMN!
  19. I'm sorry for the loss of your friend. I consider myself a very careful climber, but it easily could be me on this thread considering some of the terrain, solos, and weather conditions I've been involved in. I've only lost one climbing buddy so far and still miss him greatly. I hope you're grief and that of TJ's family and other friends finds comfort and healing. He sounds like a great guy and it is a loss for this world and the climbing community.
  20. Not the message I was sending. I use a lot of thrift store finds when I'm hiking and climbing. I have found Schoeller pants, bibs, boots, helmets, fleece vests, etc at Value Village and Goodwill that I still use. I WISH that Walmart was my number one stop for gear...I'm not rich and would rather spend money on trips and food. My climbing partner will tell you I am Mr. Bargain Gear Whore. I do the climbing...not my gear, but I depend on it with my life. By the way, my synthetic parka is a Moonstone clearance shelf find in way visible red. It won't be me scoffing or laughing at you, too much respect...Cheers!
  21. I'm not really into the "spray" responses of some on this site, but most people here want advice from other experienced climbers. I respect the experience and advice of people who have used the gear in real situations and climates where your life depends on the quality of your gear and savvy in using it. I doubt anyone would hesitate buying from Walmart or any other store if their products were proven in quality as well as price. Nobody I climb with cares about fancy labels...just the durablility and quality of the gear they use. I'd take your advice more seriously if you would post some TR's of your outdoor adventures.
  22. Thanks for sharing those...they were really cool. It makes me feel like a total wimp boy with my modern gear. At least the desire to enjoy the beauty of the mountains remains the same.
  23. Are you all set, or still needing pitons?
  24. I haven't looked at the entire thread, so I appologize if someone else suggested it but there are lots of day hikes in and around Mt. Rainier National Park of varying lengths and levels of difficulty/elevation gain. I have taken my own kids on them trying to addict them to the mountains like their old dad. If you get a yearly pass it pays for itself after 2-3 visits. Look at Spray Park, Burroughs Mountain, Mt. Aix, Crystal Lakes, etc.
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