Le Piston

Interested, yes! Available, unfortunately not this weekend (on call). But either Sep. 26 and 27 or Oct. 3-4 might work if you don't find a taker for this weekend.

Are they the Talc? I had a pair of the Talc knickers and tore the seat out on Dorado Needle. I really liked them, but no soft shell pant should rip on their first climb. Took em back to REI for a refund.

Thanks for the update. I've climbed there a few times and agree, that is friction heaven...though a bit runout for pro. I really enjoyed Online. It's too bad the approach has become so complicated...I don't remember it being so bad, but I haven't been out there for at least 6-7 years.

Nice work! That is some stout approach with a big pack. I really liked the pictures...some fine shots.

I'd be all over this, but how much new snow is there after this past weekend? I have the time (off work at 3:30 Friday until Sunday night) just wondering if there's too much snow.

I also love the Schoeller fabric. I tend to like knickers as some of the full length pants are too warm for me. I have some Ibex knickers that I love. For colder weather I use Arc'teryx Gamma AR pants. I keep looking for Schoeller pants with zip off legs...that would be my perfect pant. I have used Mammut pants in the past with good luck, but they got chewed up over many years of abuse. The Mammut Courmayeur pants were pretty sweet.

I climbed this a couple years ago...Definitely better with snow on Needle Pass. It is a long approach for a small amount of rock climbing, but a fun climb. Nice pictures and TR. Was the bridge still bent from the falling tree?

I actually hiked up by myself to the base of the Woolley Shoulder to scope out Woolley and Diadem. I considered going up there, especially as Grant said the views were awesome of Alberta and North Twin, but the clouds and wind were picking up...maybe next time. Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks so much for the suggestion and beta. It would have been perfect except for the injury. My friend wanted to head home and attend to his hand, so sorry for not stopping in and filling out a trail report. I hope to come back another time and try again. Cheers!

Nice pictures! I did this route a few years ago and think it is much better as an overnighter...more time to savor the views. Nice TR man.

Trip: Mt. Spickard - South Slope Date: 8/22/2009 Trip Report: This was a grudge match climb. After getting turned back last year and being told by my partner's girlfriend that we were pussies if we didn't make it this year...it was on with Mt Spickard. First I must thank whoever went in with a chainsaw and made the approach hike so much nicer. We were able to drive all the way into the trailhead with my 4 wheel drive...saved a mile or so both ways. The falls in the afternoon was really flowing and we were soaked getting up the 2 fixed ropes. We pulled into Ouzell Lake to find another party there to climb Mt. Redoubt. After setting up camp, eating, and gearing up, we settled in for a nice sleep. We awoke at 0530 to socked in clouds, but ate breakfast and started the long scree slog to the glacier on the south side route with great views of Redoubt We had a little route-finding problem by following one of the guidebook reports and went too high before going climbers right to the moraine leading to the glacier. The glacier was quite hard ice and took some whacking to make crampons and axe stick.There was a considerable moat, but one finger of ice led right onto the rock. The gulley leading over to the south side was near vertical dirt and rocks, which I climbed using my axe and some very unglamourous thrashing (we found another gulley to downclimb on the way back that was better). More scree led up to the summit with great views of the North Cascades. The glacier was softer on the way down and I was more relaxed knowing I could arrest a fall. I still had a little energy so I traversed over to look at the Silver Glacier. It looked pretty broken up, but like a very nice route. Silver Lake is worth the extra scree and boulder hopping. The hike out was uneventful and happy with a great climbing experience behind us. Redoubt is on for next season! Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. Poles helped a lot on the scree. The mosquitos were out, but not horrible. Approach Notes: The Chilliwack Lake road is pothole hell the last seven miles. High clearance vehicles can make it all the way to the trailhead. The trail was nice, except the section past the falls. Early morning the falls seemed to have less spray.

Trip: Woolley and Diadem, Icefields Parkway (attempt) - Standard Date: 8/17/2009 Trip Report: My friend Rod and I had planned to climb the Kain Face of Robson, but a foot of fresh snow foiled the plans. So, after finding out that our second choice Columbia was out of shape, we opted for Mount Woolley and Diadem. The next door neighbors are 11,000 footers and both can be done in a long day...just my kind of peak bagging. The first obstacle was finding the trailhead, as there are no signs. You must drive about 12 km north of the Icefields Center and find a pullout on the right side of the road opposite of Woolley Creek. After crossing the frigid Sunwapta River, you head north not far from the treeline on a faint trail to a cairn near where Woolley Creek joins the Sunwapta.The trail ascends to the left of the creek past a falls.The trail stays to the left of the creek all the way to a basin at the base of Woolley and Diadem.There are several nice rock walled sites with water close by.On the approach hike, my friend fell and injured his right hand bad enough to make climbing impossible...I don't care for one handed belays and such. The route goes from the toe of the glacier to the rock ledges on the southeast face of Diadem. Once on the glacier you ascend the South ridge of Diadem and return and ascend the North ridge of Woolley (or vice versa).It was a nice hike in, but discouraging to drive all that way and leave without a couple summits. Anyone looking for a nice moderate climb in the Icefields with a short approach when other peaks are out of condition...this is for you. Gear Notes: We took standard glacier gear. The snow/ice ramps looked lean and possibly might require 2 tools. My friend thought a small rock rack would be nice, but we never got on the ledges to see if that would be needed. Approach Notes: As described above. The main thing is stay near and left of Woolley Creek on the way in. There were cairns leading up a moraine towards Mt. Alberta that could be confusing. The Sunwapta river was pretty low and braided and with careful scoping never got above knee level.

Maybe not ultralight, but the Black Diamond Flicklock Expedition poles are great. They are totally bomber, collapse down very short, and come in two lengths. They are a lot less spendy than other poles also. I've only seen them in a few places though (Feathered Friends, Marmot).

Having just come back from that area I will say that some of the ice/snow routes are not in condition. The Columbia glacier is badly broken up and new snow on top had even people on skis popping into holes. Skyladder has no ice on it and the snow was sloughing off it. My partner and I went in to do Whooley and Diadem, but he hurt his hand on the way in so we decided not to climb. I like the idea of someone being able to belay me with a functional hand. This climb has a short straightforward approach and still looked doable...with a little rock pro and two tools. In addition to "Selected Alpine Climbs" there is the 11,000ers of Canada book which has good information on the higher peaks. It sounds like Canada also had a subpar snowpack this year, so the rock routes are probably a better option. You might consider Mt. Temple or Mt. Louis. Good Luck!

Nice work! That was pretty fast climbing. I'm totally green with envy...having gone up there last summer and gotten rained off. Great pictures and TR. Thanks for the route beta...I'm hoping for a rematch. Maybe I can join the SKT club on MSD!

You might try the Sunwapta warden/ranger at 780-852-5383 to get an update. I've also gotten responses via e-mail regarding conditions. The last time I was up there Skyladder was looking pretty thin. Ask about the descent, I hear the AA col can be tricky. Good luck and hope this helps.

With every sport there is risk and benefit that need to be assessed. As others have so well stated there are many factors that you can control and many that you can't, and the decisions you make based on your assessment of the risks and consequences of your actions is the main component of the outcome. Luck is pretty random and fickle. I love being in the mountains so much. I have to admit that the challenge of overcoming a steep snow slope or a rock arete to get to the top of a beautiful peak with a good friend gives me a great joy that I weigh against my responsiblity as a husband and father. I try to be as safe in my assessment of risk vs. my skill, weather, route,etc. as I can be. I can't speak for anyone but myself, but alpine climbing seems worth the risk. I figure statistically I have a much higher chance of dying in a car crash or from cancer. I'm with TMO, although I started climbing before wife and kids. I like the Paul Petzold quote about there being old climbers and bold climbers...but no old bold climbers (except maybe Fred Beckey). I also think that it's better to live a full life and enjoy each day as a gift rather than cower in my house trying to stay safe.

Glad all went well for your climb. It looks like there was even less snow than when I climbed it. I saw bear tracks but didn't see Mr. Griz. Nice TR...much more comprehensive than my maiden effort. Did you get hooked on Canadian alpine climbing?

Nice work! I hope to see a trip report and pictures. Glad the weather cooperated. Now if it will only stay nice for my trip to Canada next week.

You are doing more than many with your medical history and age. Keep up the mountain adventures! The slower you go, the more you usually get to see and enjoy. I salute and admire the young speedsters, but I also salute you and others who take time to savor the alpine world. Cheers! and thanks for the great TR.

I will no doubt lose more hardman points to Genepires, but I also like the 2 pad system. I'm with Denalidave...I climb better and safer when I've had some Z's. I think in addition to durability the closed cell foam pad insulates better. I use my 3/4 Z-Rest under my Thermarest Prolite 3 and this works well for me. I haven't had any leaks and sleep warm even on snow. I'll get my hardman points with burly approaches and other manly alpine deeds.

Way to hold it together and come back alive. You obviously have cool heads and definitely earned some hardman points. Great TR and pictures...a riveting adventure.

Tom Tom has covered the safety standards well. Your noggin should be worth protecting and worth the nominal expense of a good mountaineering helmet. I don't know much about snowboard/ski helmets, but I wouldn't imagine they have holders for headlamps.

You might check out Yamnuska guide service or I have climbed twice with a guide Larry Dolecki and he was great. Look him up online at icefall.ca. Good Luck!

Most of the climbing in Ecuador is volcanos...so glacier and snow slogs. The main ones are Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. You might check them out if that sort of climbing interests you. If ice climbing is your thing, what about the Columbia Icefields in Canada?