Le Piston

I haven't bivied on that knoll, but Kool Aid Lake is not far from the Red Ledges and had running water (see picture). I remember seeing a couple spots past the Red Ledges with running water. Hope that helps

Many thanks for the update...now if I can just get a weather window! Cheers!

Thanks for the TR and great pictures. I think I only saw one picture with avvy sign...the snow must have been pretty consolidated? Would a non-skier need snowshoes for the approach or did you guys make a nice trail for others to follow (and bless your efforts)? I ask because I might be headed up there Friday. Thanks!

I tend to agree with Summitchaser...for a tent primarily for car camping, you don't really need a single wall tent. A roomy 2 person with a fly that is light enough for backbacking is the ticket. On fine nights leave the fly off and enjoy the stars safe from the bugs. In the rain, a waterproof fly will keep you cozy. There are dozens of tents that will fit the bill. Look at Sierra Designs, Big Agnes, and even REI. You can probably get a decent tent on sale. I had an REI Half Dome that worked well for me for many years. My main tent now is a Black Diamond Firstlight, but I don't take it car camping ever. I have a big dome tent for that...comfy!

I dropped by Pro Mountain Sports yesterday, and Mr. Nelson said he was sold out and not sure if he would reorder. Sorry Layton...at least Yellow Hardman gave you good service.

Canada has some great climbing. Not just ice, but some sweet alpine objectives as well. It is well worth the drive! Hope you are having good times Dane.

Thanks greatly. My friend is thinking of opting for Colchuck NEB Couloir anyway. Now if the weather will just cooperate. Cheers!

How thin was the transition...like dry toolin' thin? I ask as an old climbing buddy is coming in to town who would like a rematch with the TC (our previous try had a nasty warm snap and too much rock and ice was falling). Thanks for the TR, great pictures, and route beta!

My partner has one, but I doubt he'd part with it. He still uses an MSR helmet and has fleece from climbing Denali a few decades ago. It is a bit smelly and tattered, with lots of duct tape (see picture) I like the Z-rest myself.

Not only tasty, but you can use the can for pro in a pinch (I have only read of one instance of it actually being done). I have that same piton and have used it to spread cream cheese and peanut butter.

Them is some sweet pictures! Who are you, Ansel Adams the second? I used to work up there in the Forest Service...I don't remember it looking THAT nice when I climbed it.

Sorry, just a little brain fart...it's the problem with getting older. Glad to hear...Formidable is a pretty cool looking climb.

Anyone like "Clean Break" in the morning?

I also live in Kent, but not available 24/7...got the wife and full-time job plus on call. I'm interested in finding other people to climb with when my regular partner is not available. Sounds like we have climbed many of the same things. I no longer climb 5.10 rock, but like alpine climbing and moderate trad rack. I've got vehicle and all the gear. PM me if you are interested.

Nice work Valerie! This has only been on my radar for the last 3 years. My problem has always been having the right combination of days off work, partner available, and route in shape. This weekend I've been on-call for work wishing I were out in this perfect weather. Glad you were out climbing! Are you still thinking about a rematch with Redoubt this summer?

Another soft shell fan here...I happen to like the Mammut Courmayeur tan softshell or Talc pants. I have also had good luck with pants with zip off legs, like the Mountain Hardwear Pack or Matterhorn pants. If it's hot you can have shorts...just take off the legs. They are reasonably wind resistant and warm in cooler conditions. Another option is a 3/4 or knicker type soft shell pant with long socks for chillier conditions. I've used all of these in various weather and temperatures. As mentioned previously, a lightweight hardshell pant or some long underwear bottoms can be added if it gets really cold (as it can up high in the wee hours).

How about some more old ice pro.

Quite Washburnesque! Very nice pictures there. Thanks for sharing the views.

As has been mentioned before, start the stove outside (avoid the flareup) and also be sure it doesn't leak fuel. I had an MSR leak fuel and only a quick reaction saved my tent and me from being a torch (Hey, what's this puddle next to the stove?) Cooking from your bag is nice, but I'd put safety above comfort in that scenario. You should be able to build a nice snow wall/pit for cooking.

A lot of good advice already. I would lean towards a lighter boot like the Trango unless you plan on doing more glacier/snow climbing exclusively. There aren't too many moderate climbs you can't do in them and they will be way more comfortable for approach hikes(if they fit you well) I've worn the Trango on Ranier and still have all ten toes...though the plastic boots or Nepals would be warmer. Good luck with your choice!

While Forbidden does require some exposed mid 5th class rock climbing, Eldorado by the standard route is a glacier/snow climb. It is well worth the long slog to get there...the views are awesome! The summit ridge has a short section of exposed ridge, but shouldn't be too intimidating. Usually June is better for access, but in this low snow year May might work. You might also consider Whitehorse or Colchuck Peaks. Good Luck!

Glad to hear they are all right. It can happen to anyone of us...just need to be prepared and keep your wits about you. Thanks for the update Dane.

Thanks for doing the research and sharing. I have used a combo of a lightweight REI primaloft hooded jacket (a little like the MH Compressor) for mild temps and an old Moonstone synthetic jacket for winter. Now I know what I can save my pennies for!

I am a total helmet geek...I have a quiver of them that I use and lend when climbing with gear deficient friends.

Glad to see another HB El Cap user out there.