Le Piston

Another soft shell fan here...I happen to like the Mammut Courmayeur tan softshell or Talc pants. I have also had good luck with pants with zip off legs, like the Mountain Hardwear Pack or Matterhorn pants. If it's hot you can have shorts...just take off the legs. They are reasonably wind resistant and warm in cooler conditions. Another option is a 3/4 or knicker type soft shell pant with long socks for chillier conditions. I've used all of these in various weather and temperatures. As mentioned previously, a lightweight hardshell pant or some long underwear bottoms can be added if it gets really cold (as it can up high in the wee hours).

How about some more old ice pro.

Quite Washburnesque! Very nice pictures there. Thanks for sharing the views.

As has been mentioned before, start the stove outside (avoid the flareup) and also be sure it doesn't leak fuel. I had an MSR leak fuel and only a quick reaction saved my tent and me from being a torch (Hey, what's this puddle next to the stove?) Cooking from your bag is nice, but I'd put safety above comfort in that scenario. You should be able to build a nice snow wall/pit for cooking.

A lot of good advice already. I would lean towards a lighter boot like the Trango unless you plan on doing more glacier/snow climbing exclusively. There aren't too many moderate climbs you can't do in them and they will be way more comfortable for approach hikes(if they fit you well) I've worn the Trango on Ranier and still have all ten toes...though the plastic boots or Nepals would be warmer. Good luck with your choice!

While Forbidden does require some exposed mid 5th class rock climbing, Eldorado by the standard route is a glacier/snow climb. It is well worth the long slog to get there...the views are awesome! The summit ridge has a short section of exposed ridge, but shouldn't be too intimidating. Usually June is better for access, but in this low snow year May might work. You might also consider Whitehorse or Colchuck Peaks. Good Luck!

Glad to hear they are all right. It can happen to anyone of us...just need to be prepared and keep your wits about you. Thanks for the update Dane.

Thanks for doing the research and sharing. I have used a combo of a lightweight REI primaloft hooded jacket (a little like the MH Compressor) for mild temps and an old Moonstone synthetic jacket for winter. Now I know what I can save my pennies for!

I am a total helmet geek...I have a quiver of them that I use and lend when climbing with gear deficient friends.

Glad to see another HB El Cap user out there.

You might also consider the Canon A1000is...light, compact, good pictures, and takes AA batteries. If better quality pictures and features are a priority (and you don't mind the price and extra weight) look at the Canon G10 or G11. I used to have a Sony DSC P200 which took great pictures, but the lens kept getting stuck out. Good Luck!

If you like the "Rocky" theme, you might check out Maynard Ferguson's trumpet version...makes a nice ipod or MP3 download for summit victory celebrations.

Where abouts do you live? Are you looking to do some alpine rock climbing also? I like Mt. Adams, Ruth, Rainier DC, Baker Coleman-Demming, and Eldorado East Ridge for snow/glacier climbs for gaining experience. For alpine rock I like Ingalls, South Early Winters Spire, the Tooth, etc. I hope you can hook up with a more experienced partner to learn and enjoy the mountains with.

If you primarily climb in good weather, a 3 season tent is usually fine...it's what I use for 90% of my outings. But if you are above tree line, in heavier winds/snow/rain a bomber 4 season tent is really nice. As Bug points out, a vestibule is really nice when you are hunkered down waiting out bad weather...for cooking or sitting up. I have an older single wall 4 season tent which runs about 7 pounds with vestibule. I have only had condensation issues using it on sandy areas around water.

I've done the chimney on the south face and the southeast buttress, but not the hand crack. What's it rated? I have wondered more about the west face and it's climbing potential.

I've got to have my MP3 player with me climbing or working out. For me the funk is what cranks me up...Rick James, the Ohio Players, the Commodores, Parliment, etc. Then I wind down with some good blues tunes.

Mattp is right...even if you don't get a long hike in the Olympics (there are some great ones!), Rialto is worth the drive. A short walk from car to beach.

Another vote for the Ptarmigan...but you might look at the Jack Mountain/Devils Dome loop. Crater and Jack could fit your needs for scramble objectives.

I'm into variety, but usually I have Gu and Gatorade on the move, a bagel with ham/cheese/cream cheese and fruit for lunch, and the traditional Ritter Sport chocolate bar on each summit.

Another boot you may consider is the Asolo Expert. It is a little heavier than the La Sportiva, but I have found it just as comfortable and more durable. I still love my Trangos, but this has been a great all-around alpine boot. I also have the Nepals, which I use when it's colder or I need more support for steeper snow/ice...great boots!

I went up loaded for bear (tools, rock and ice pro, partners) Sunday and found little visibility and horrible snow conditions (crust over slippery powder). We called it a day before even getting on the Northeast buttress...should have looked at the North Face, but I figured we'd be digging for pro placement. Hope the conditions improve before my next weekend off.

Please post a TR with current conditions...Thanks!

Just a few other bits of old pro for the collection

It seems to me that it is difficult to find one pack that does everything well for every type of climbing...hence most of us have several in the quiver. For what you describe, I would think the Andinista, BD, or Chaos would suit your needs. I'm a big fan of Wild Things and BD, but there are many other brands out there that make good climbing packs. Another poster mentioned the Osprey Aether 60 (which I also have and like for weekend moderate alpine climbs) If you do harder alpine climbs, it may not be "technical" enough for you...being more of a backpacking pack that works for moderate climbs that doesn't really strip down. Good luck with your choice.

I've been there in the summer, now I HAVE to do it in the winter thanks to you. Great photos...as usual.