Le Piston

Nice work! I can't believe how bare Glacier looks...like a different mountain than I climbed years ago. I enjoyed the TR and pictures.

Do you know anyone else about your age interested in hiking or climbing? I find it easier to be motivated and train with someone else...especially when I've gotten out of shape. You can also share information, gear, dreams of climbing destinations, etc. I have great times with my family, but my climbing partner has a special bond of trust and familiarity through shared experience. He makes even slogs up Mt. Si with heavy packs good times. I also have friends with kids around my kids ages and find there is a lot more fun (and less whining) for them on hikes when they have someone their own age to relate to. Just something to consider in you quest. Again, keep up the good work!

Before you endure any more butt ripping, you may want to check out your local thrift stores or places like Second Ascent where you can get used clothing and gear. I have found name brand stuff that I use for hiking and climbing in Value Village and Goodwill (North Face jackets and vest, Lowa climbing boots, Ibex Schoeller pants, etc). It can help you ease into the sport. I have 3 kids and know the look of gear lust for bright shiny new stuff. You must be strong...save the big bucks for your footwear, shell gear, tent, sleeping bags, etc. I wish you well in your pursuit of fitness and family bliss in the mountains. Sharing time in the mountains with your family is great times and makes for lasting memories.

I have stayed several places in Zermatt, and the best budget place was Hotel Bahnhof. You can get inexpensive beds in the dormitory or rooms depending on your budget. Lots of other climbers to chat with. Staff speaks English. I'd suggest reservations. e-mail Hotel Bahnhof.com. Also, check into the various Swiss Rail passes. There are various combinations depending on how many places you are planning to go and gives discounts on the trams...it saved me a lot of money. You can basically get off the airplane, buy the pass, hop on the train...next stop Zermatt. I used the huts and saved on fees by having an American Alpine Club membership. I bought food at the grocery store for most meals and had a few restraunt meals for the occasional treat. Hope this helps.

You sir are an animal! Nice work...sounds like a great adventure. I envy you your solitude in such a popular and beautiful area. Glad the weather held for you. Thanks for the TR and pictures.

You might consider doing them separately (at least the Tooth and Kaleetan) before doing the traverse to orient yourself if you are new to the area. A midweek foray might help avoid some of the rockfall issues...especially on Chair.

The Courmayeur pants are great. I just wished I had bought 2 pair. I couldn't find them again locally in my size after being retired after years of climbing.

I assisted in a helicopter evacuation of an injured climber in Canada in 2007 and that incident wasn't in ANAM. I'm guessing a lot happens that doesn't get reported.

Interested, yes! Available, unfortunately not this weekend (on call). But either Sep. 26 and 27 or Oct. 3-4 might work if you don't find a taker for this weekend.

Are they the Talc? I had a pair of the Talc knickers and tore the seat out on Dorado Needle. I really liked them, but no soft shell pant should rip on their first climb. Took em back to REI for a refund.

Thanks for the update. I've climbed there a few times and agree, that is friction heaven...though a bit runout for pro. I really enjoyed Online. It's too bad the approach has become so complicated...I don't remember it being so bad, but I haven't been out there for at least 6-7 years.

Nice work! That is some stout approach with a big pack. I really liked the pictures...some fine shots.

I'd be all over this, but how much new snow is there after this past weekend? I have the time (off work at 3:30 Friday until Sunday night) just wondering if there's too much snow.

I also love the Schoeller fabric. I tend to like knickers as some of the full length pants are too warm for me. I have some Ibex knickers that I love. For colder weather I use Arc'teryx Gamma AR pants. I keep looking for Schoeller pants with zip off legs...that would be my perfect pant. I have used Mammut pants in the past with good luck, but they got chewed up over many years of abuse. The Mammut Courmayeur pants were pretty sweet.

I climbed this a couple years ago...Definitely better with snow on Needle Pass. It is a long approach for a small amount of rock climbing, but a fun climb. Nice pictures and TR. Was the bridge still bent from the falling tree?

I actually hiked up by myself to the base of the Woolley Shoulder to scope out Woolley and Diadem. I considered going up there, especially as Grant said the views were awesome of Alberta and North Twin, but the clouds and wind were picking up...maybe next time. Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks so much for the suggestion and beta. It would have been perfect except for the injury. My friend wanted to head home and attend to his hand, so sorry for not stopping in and filling out a trail report. I hope to come back another time and try again. Cheers!

Nice pictures! I did this route a few years ago and think it is much better as an overnighter...more time to savor the views. Nice TR man.

Trip: Mt. Spickard - South Slope Date: 8/22/2009 Trip Report: This was a grudge match climb. After getting turned back last year and being told by my partner's girlfriend that we were pussies if we didn't make it this year...it was on with Mt Spickard. First I must thank whoever went in with a chainsaw and made the approach hike so much nicer. We were able to drive all the way into the trailhead with my 4 wheel drive...saved a mile or so both ways. The falls in the afternoon was really flowing and we were soaked getting up the 2 fixed ropes. We pulled into Ouzell Lake to find another party there to climb Mt. Redoubt. After setting up camp, eating, and gearing up, we settled in for a nice sleep. We awoke at 0530 to socked in clouds, but ate breakfast and started the long scree slog to the glacier on the south side route with great views of Redoubt We had a little route-finding problem by following one of the guidebook reports and went too high before going climbers right to the moraine leading to the glacier. The glacier was quite hard ice and took some whacking to make crampons and axe stick.There was a considerable moat, but one finger of ice led right onto the rock. The gulley leading over to the south side was near vertical dirt and rocks, which I climbed using my axe and some very unglamourous thrashing (we found another gulley to downclimb on the way back that was better). More scree led up to the summit with great views of the North Cascades. The glacier was softer on the way down and I was more relaxed knowing I could arrest a fall. I still had a little energy so I traversed over to look at the Silver Glacier. It looked pretty broken up, but like a very nice route. Silver Lake is worth the extra scree and boulder hopping. The hike out was uneventful and happy with a great climbing experience behind us. Redoubt is on for next season! Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. Poles helped a lot on the scree. The mosquitos were out, but not horrible. Approach Notes: The Chilliwack Lake road is pothole hell the last seven miles. High clearance vehicles can make it all the way to the trailhead. The trail was nice, except the section past the falls. Early morning the falls seemed to have less spray.

Trip: Woolley and Diadem, Icefields Parkway (attempt) - Standard Date: 8/17/2009 Trip Report: My friend Rod and I had planned to climb the Kain Face of Robson, but a foot of fresh snow foiled the plans. So, after finding out that our second choice Columbia was out of shape, we opted for Mount Woolley and Diadem. The next door neighbors are 11,000 footers and both can be done in a long day...just my kind of peak bagging. The first obstacle was finding the trailhead, as there are no signs. You must drive about 12 km north of the Icefields Center and find a pullout on the right side of the road opposite of Woolley Creek. After crossing the frigid Sunwapta River, you head north not far from the treeline on a faint trail to a cairn near where Woolley Creek joins the Sunwapta.The trail ascends to the left of the creek past a falls.The trail stays to the left of the creek all the way to a basin at the base of Woolley and Diadem.There are several nice rock walled sites with water close by.On the approach hike, my friend fell and injured his right hand bad enough to make climbing impossible...I don't care for one handed belays and such. The route goes from the toe of the glacier to the rock ledges on the southeast face of Diadem. Once on the glacier you ascend the South ridge of Diadem and return and ascend the North ridge of Woolley (or vice versa).It was a nice hike in, but discouraging to drive all that way and leave without a couple summits. Anyone looking for a nice moderate climb in the Icefields with a short approach when other peaks are out of condition...this is for you. Gear Notes: We took standard glacier gear. The snow/ice ramps looked lean and possibly might require 2 tools. My friend thought a small rock rack would be nice, but we never got on the ledges to see if that would be needed. Approach Notes: As described above. The main thing is stay near and left of Woolley Creek on the way in. There were cairns leading up a moraine towards Mt. Alberta that could be confusing. The Sunwapta river was pretty low and braided and with careful scoping never got above knee level.

Maybe not ultralight, but the Black Diamond Flicklock Expedition poles are great. They are totally bomber, collapse down very short, and come in two lengths. They are a lot less spendy than other poles also. I've only seen them in a few places though (Feathered Friends, Marmot).

Having just come back from that area I will say that some of the ice/snow routes are not in condition. The Columbia glacier is badly broken up and new snow on top had even people on skis popping into holes. Skyladder has no ice on it and the snow was sloughing off it. My partner and I went in to do Whooley and Diadem, but he hurt his hand on the way in so we decided not to climb. I like the idea of someone being able to belay me with a functional hand. This climb has a short straightforward approach and still looked doable...with a little rock pro and two tools. In addition to "Selected Alpine Climbs" there is the 11,000ers of Canada book which has good information on the higher peaks. It sounds like Canada also had a subpar snowpack this year, so the rock routes are probably a better option. You might consider Mt. Temple or Mt. Louis. Good Luck!

Nice work! That was pretty fast climbing. I'm totally green with envy...having gone up there last summer and gotten rained off. Great pictures and TR. Thanks for the route beta...I'm hoping for a rematch. Maybe I can join the SKT club on MSD!

You might try the Sunwapta warden/ranger at 780-852-5383 to get an update. I've also gotten responses via e-mail regarding conditions. The last time I was up there Skyladder was looking pretty thin. Ask about the descent, I hear the AA col can be tricky. Good luck and hope this helps.

With every sport there is risk and benefit that need to be assessed. As others have so well stated there are many factors that you can control and many that you can't, and the decisions you make based on your assessment of the risks and consequences of your actions is the main component of the outcome. Luck is pretty random and fickle. I love being in the mountains so much. I have to admit that the challenge of overcoming a steep snow slope or a rock arete to get to the top of a beautiful peak with a good friend gives me a great joy that I weigh against my responsiblity as a husband and father. I try to be as safe in my assessment of risk vs. my skill, weather, route,etc. as I can be. I can't speak for anyone but myself, but alpine climbing seems worth the risk. I figure statistically I have a much higher chance of dying in a car crash or from cancer. I'm with TMO, although I started climbing before wife and kids. I like the Paul Petzold quote about there being old climbers and bold climbers...but no old bold climbers (except maybe Fred Beckey). I also think that it's better to live a full life and enjoy each day as a gift rather than cower in my house trying to stay safe.