Le Piston

Another vote for Smartwool...although sock preferences sometimes take a lot of experimentation to find what combination works best for you. You also might look at how tight/loose your boots are. If you have areas of high friction, taping ahead of time can help. Some people forget to tighten their boots before going downhill and it can lead to jammed toes and heel blisters. Trekking poles can also help the knees on the way down (especially old abused ones like mine). Good luck and keep up the good work!

I don't have a Shrike, but I do have a Black Prophet I probably won't be using much anymore. See attatched picture. Is this what you're looking for?

Damn! Looks like I went two weeks early. Nice pictures. I wish I wasn't on call this coming weekend...the larches look to be in primo condition. Was the Asgaard Pass trail very slippery? I went up late last fall and it was very sporty coming down, like a steep skating rink.

I also like Mount Rainier area for mellow BC skiing (Reflection Lakes). You might also consider the Mountain Loop Highway/Monte Cristo area when there is enough snow.

Nice moves! Looks like some interesting climbing...especially the arch. Thanks for the pictures and nice TR. I can only dream of routes like that...thanks for fix.

If you have a library nearby you can often find climbing books or place a hold on climbing books and guidebooks...it's free, if you have the patience. I've gotten to see a lot of books (even DVDs) through the King County Library system.

Here's a picture from Ingalls Lake area from Saturday. It appeared the Enchantments got a dusting from what little I could see.

Sweet! I was up there last weekend on a day trip up Little Annapurna and they were still getting there. I'm hoping Asgaard isn't too slippery this weekend...I'd like to get some pictures if the weather cooperates.

I second the Enchantments/Alpine Lakes Wilderness idea. You may not get a "technical" climb in, but combine new snow, golden larch trees, and blue alpine lakes and you can't ask for better.

I wondered if you guys would post here. I met you heading down Asgaard pass. Way to get it done! That is a great route, but can be "interesting" route finding. Like I said when we talked, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who can turn a 5.8 route into 5.10 adventure. Keep up the good work!

I called the ranger station today and they reported 5 inches of snow up there (Enchantments) with potential for more. Scrambling sounds like a safer bet than Prusik...though as previously stated the weather can do the unexpected up there. I'd love to be up there with the larch trees turning gold and some new snow...as long as Asgaard Pass isn't too slippery. I was up there last November and it was unpleasantly icy.

I would either pick the Alps (if money were not a limiting factor) or either the Banff/Jasper area or North Cascades for North American travel...no language barrier, great scenery, and most everything reachable by car.

Looks like good times. I've been wondering about these climbs for a while. Thanks for sharing the TR and pics! Looked a bit nippy there.

Not only extra days for weather, but there are some other very cool peaks (Lyskamm, Obergabelhorn, Castor, Pollux, Breithorn, Monte Rosa, etc) if the Matterhorn isn't in shape. You'd hate going all that way and coming back emptyhanded. I hope it works out for you.

Unfortunately I have to work Friday. I went up Little Annapurna this past Saturday as a day hike. I'd love to do Prusik again (West Ridge?...I'm not in "rock climbing shape" enough for South Face) I do have Saturday and Sunday off though.

If your partner isn't able to get permission (boy do I know that issue!) PM me. I'm hoping to go back next summer. When I went in 2005 there were two seperate storms dumping snow on the Matterhorn and it was out of condition. I climbed a bunch of other peaks, but still want the 'Horn. Are you interested in any other climbs in the Zermatt area?

That is one awesome photo of the Matterhorn!

Nice work! I can't believe how bare Glacier looks...like a different mountain than I climbed years ago. I enjoyed the TR and pictures.

Do you know anyone else about your age interested in hiking or climbing? I find it easier to be motivated and train with someone else...especially when I've gotten out of shape. You can also share information, gear, dreams of climbing destinations, etc. I have great times with my family, but my climbing partner has a special bond of trust and familiarity through shared experience. He makes even slogs up Mt. Si with heavy packs good times. I also have friends with kids around my kids ages and find there is a lot more fun (and less whining) for them on hikes when they have someone their own age to relate to. Just something to consider in you quest. Again, keep up the good work!

Before you endure any more butt ripping, you may want to check out your local thrift stores or places like Second Ascent where you can get used clothing and gear. I have found name brand stuff that I use for hiking and climbing in Value Village and Goodwill (North Face jackets and vest, Lowa climbing boots, Ibex Schoeller pants, etc). It can help you ease into the sport. I have 3 kids and know the look of gear lust for bright shiny new stuff. You must be strong...save the big bucks for your footwear, shell gear, tent, sleeping bags, etc. I wish you well in your pursuit of fitness and family bliss in the mountains. Sharing time in the mountains with your family is great times and makes for lasting memories.

I have stayed several places in Zermatt, and the best budget place was Hotel Bahnhof. You can get inexpensive beds in the dormitory or rooms depending on your budget. Lots of other climbers to chat with. Staff speaks English. I'd suggest reservations. e-mail Hotel Bahnhof.com. Also, check into the various Swiss Rail passes. There are various combinations depending on how many places you are planning to go and gives discounts on the trams...it saved me a lot of money. You can basically get off the airplane, buy the pass, hop on the train...next stop Zermatt. I used the huts and saved on fees by having an American Alpine Club membership. I bought food at the grocery store for most meals and had a few restraunt meals for the occasional treat. Hope this helps.

You sir are an animal! Nice work...sounds like a great adventure. I envy you your solitude in such a popular and beautiful area. Glad the weather held for you. Thanks for the TR and pictures.

You might consider doing them separately (at least the Tooth and Kaleetan) before doing the traverse to orient yourself if you are new to the area. A midweek foray might help avoid some of the rockfall issues...especially on Chair.

The Courmayeur pants are great. I just wished I had bought 2 pair. I couldn't find them again locally in my size after being retired after years of climbing.

I assisted in a helicopter evacuation of an injured climber in Canada in 2007 and that incident wasn't in ANAM. I'm guessing a lot happens that doesn't get reported.