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bwrts

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Everything posted by bwrts

  1. I remember climbing outerspace once and the entire 5.9 trav pitch was like clipping bolts as it had so much fixed gear. In fact, I do believe my buddy JV did not place one piece of his own and ended up carrying the entire rack up to the Belay. Speaking of famous fixed gear. The bolts on Orbit are Classic! And does anyone know how long the bolts at Library Ledge lasted?? On one of my visits they were there (years ago) and later that summer they were gone.
  2. no new topo that I know of...I have some information regarding some of the routes tho. I think JosephH has info regarding the route up on Prusik climbed by Metolius team or maybe it was that Dave fellow from Spokomtom I am remembering.... anyrate, I agree mixed climbing is way more Kosher then Drilling an entire bolt line to facilitate a new climb. Especially when that TCU or RP fits just fine. If said new route has rotten rock that takes gear and one feels like the gear is not safe for their new route then maybe one should realize they are wading into deep water they should not go into and leave the line for some other person to climb sans bolts. okay, carry on. and as another climber once said, the universe is mostly dark matter! so Drink fight & spew blood! imagine this is red not greenishpuke color.
  3. Well I am sorry to stomp on your ice thread. I will not post useful information regarding the fact that the ice has more or less all fallen down and you would be better off not carrying ice paraphernalia in your car but whatever, if ice tools are like your rock shoes then I guess you take them everywhere and anywhere. I like ice climbing just fine. web cameras showing the death to winter in the east side valley of Ltown Btw, after just speaking with my friend who drives by Hubba etc every day going home and to work I will reiterate the previous post of mine..BWHAHAHA, I would just leave your tools at home and bring your rack and chalkbag instead as Thank you babyDogma WINTER is ON its WAY OUT! YeeeHAH! FYI: he said it all fell down yesterday. BOOM!
  4. I know, I know. was not me or anyone I know who did said route to right of Madsen's chimney but I remember the guy at the bar telling Erik and I how rad it was and how he was bolting it on lead and I think 10ish grade oh and he said he wanted to beat up Erik or something like that. I am not sure if there is more than one line. Call Viktor Kramar and ask him. You both (i think) live in same town. He ususally is up to speed on most new activity. edit- timL is right, the hindquarters route can be lead with gear only. was done this way prior to bolt job. either way, the bolts are there like many short climbs with gear potential. you do not have to clip them. however, I agree that it sucks the bolts are there. kind of like the rap bolts left on the summit headwall of Prusik by some out of towners.
  5. red rocks. Ltown south facing good but some snow in shady areas. your best bet would be Junction crags area.
  6. Bwhahaha. I would just leave your tools at home and bring your rack and chalkbag instead as Castle looked great as of Sunday and so are crags at Tumwater/Icicle Jct. Thank bagyjesus, winter is on its way out!
  7. wayne glad you finally got around to posting these. I tried to post them a few years ago but got frustrated with sizing and said f it and filed the topos for later (only to forget about posting them). oh well. Prusik definitely has a bunch of high quality routes on the south face...and that area of Dragontail looks superb! Oh so much sweet MSB!
  8. Thanks for the boots Greg!
  9. never never crack has seen many attempts. Working that crack is a BITCH and a PITA to rig TR painful jams too. SC- have you tried it? ...on lead or TR? side note: Bondage and Enema are very fun and thought provoking nearby routes.
  10. and I also wonder about Lady Godiva on Prusik.
  11. Kauk and Bachar are from a different era in free climbing rocks in Yosemite. Has either Huber brother repeated Kauk's Magic Line? not that I really give a f**k but seriously...I do not know the answer and am wondering. Which leads me to think: Why must you always belittle the american climbing world when some Euro sporto (or nonAmerican) climbs a new sick problem or onsights some sport line, etc.? I think talent is everywhere some published and some not...some reported and some not. I sure do see Tommy Caldwell on the free climbing El Cap list a bunch. Where is he from? Anyrate, yell, spit and curse Americans and climbers from America all you want but remember where you live and most importantly what the flag looks like...
  12. bwrts

    SLC 411

    So is that because Brittany Griffith moved away from the neighborhood? Check out this page:Brittney Griffith Contact Page yes, I realize the spelling is different; however, I googled her name wrong and it gave both spellings aswell as this above link. Sucks that I am so bored to have typed all this...guess its time to go home.
  13. excuse me billcoe- why do you have so many 'nut tools'? oh wait, sorry I asked. JeZOOks man, do you have every design ever made?
  14. Make side bar minimizable so one does't have to view ads/sponsors all the time which makes pictures hard to view in posts (Especially on laptops with small screens).
  15. Rat is in South America till sometime later in the month.
  16. way too much new snow in the canyons. Suicide potential high due to loaded slopes as well as new snow as I type. I can't wait for spring...fukin smow sucks! RumR is right! zonk- thanks for the beta. give a call sometime; re climbing in the state of WA, etc. cheers!
  17. so I heard that the soundtrack was sung on the spot by someone while digging thru their pack never paying attention to the person in this footage. chance; perhaps. either way still think you all should have climbed party in your pants as well. dbl classic day never comes around like that often. wanks.
  18. ahh is that where mike heath etal. put a few rock routes up on the slope? not the 'across from castle' crag or "grandma's house" as its called in the book.
  19. where the hell is dental dome?
  20. Actually, assume any moderate face has probably been climbed by Briody; although he may not remember the details.
  21. and for any other Ltown tradsters, there is a .5 camalot on R & D right approach to the handcrack near the top. a nut tool should pop it right out.
  22. wild iris (Lander) would be great fun for you and family...spectacualar scenery, nice western folk and there are plenty of mod climbs around Lander to keep kids stoked... Hence the annual climbing festival. GOOD TIMES And you Gotta hike to the waterfall at the end of sinks cyn too! And some must see side trips: Fremont canyon, Devils gate, Split rock, Wind River (very easy hike for kids to Big Sandy Lake). Well, now I am firedup for another trip to Wyoming.... Corvallisclimb: Is the sweet water rocks where Lincoln dome is located??
  23. lu? Bummer deal lance.
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