bwrts

RideT161- As you many recall, the access to tober is 5.9ish (or easier) climbing for about one full pitch and then a short hike over to belay. seems about as easy as one would want when Tober is 10a. The old bolts and runout to the first bolt off the belay ledge are probably more of the answer to why it is avoided. The idiot kayakers had one standout idiot. He/She nearly drowned due to poor style and (perhaps)knowledge of the Icicle Ck. They all came spinning into the rapids below the wall, hardly keeping the boat noses out front. The standout then nailed the log in the creek upside down before finally swimming. Oh and then the swimmer nearly got pulled under a second time and the boat was lucky to not be pinned. Your right epics are abound. And I suppose my previous statement should have been partially explainded better... To me with my novice kayak eyes, it appeared like these kayakers had no business in this section of the creek and are very lucky a rescue was not needed. Anyrate, more Icicle Creek Buttress talk and less kayak talk.

I too am bored at work so here is another: CLICK ME for Original CBS request and TR and this is funny about chickenheads,etc. BTW differential erosion is the answer to why any chickenhead sticks out

if you rope up in the gully for the 5.8ish chimney block move be very careful of draggin your rope up gully and not knocking loose a death block onto your belayer. The dihedral above Easter Tower trends up and then veer left to the bolt by the roof. Easy cracks surmount the roof to "bubble land" and a shorter lead up to and obvious Ledge. At the ledge a prominent 5.6 chimney leads past a tree. Other harder options are to the left and right of chimney. The last pitch to ridge crest is pick your own poison...rambley not very memorable climbing. The ridge traverse is stellar and as BUG implies brings you to the top of outerspace. Specifically it brings you to the end of the ridge and one must rapel to the ground. One short rap. Then you have to hike over "eastish" towards outerspace to reach the end boulder of outerspace (should be obvious). I do highly recommend Champaign but I do not recommend it to someone not familiar with Mountain Climbing. Not your standard "Outerspace or Orbit" affair. Plan for a long day if unfamiliar with the ridge traverse.

el matador is 10d I thought. black hills are definitely special---HAVE FUN!

The standard descent route off Icicle Buttress is "loose" in a few places which is typically avoidable with a little care and creative wandering. If 'one' has issues with this descent then I do not recommend ever wandering up to snow creek wall/crag as that loose gully will leave you for the goats. Remember this is rock climbing and not hiking; descents are (in my opinion) sometimes way more dangerous than the climb. Take your time and look around before you tread downward. hey KKK- I saw you belaying below the chimney while climbing up to the cave. (I doubt you saw a snake but a tail of lizard perhaps.) Now that you have climbed R and D, head back for the cave route via leaner crack or chicken gully. ***But be careful of the large very dangerous yet avoidable death blocks in the cave proper (not suitable for belaying on- adjacent crack in slab way better).*** Exit the cave to the right and follow ramp to crack staying left vearing right is 5.10-. Good moves and great location.

neglected routes that about all I can say other than thanks for never crowding the quickest access crag in Leavenworth. dirt never hurt anyone. and the cracks are a bit short. but the move to aestheticness ratio is fairly skewed. overall another good day on the IButt. went up arch to forking crack then Tober to the Cave followed by the the cave Route to I think 10- finger crack (of Jim Phillips as well). A classic link up: Spaghetti Sauce to the Ramp to any crack between Big Bertha and The Rand D route. -or- what DC and I climbed today (see above) -or- The cocaine connect to the ramp to any crack between BBertha and RANDd A test piece for little BigWallBen = Big Berhta -need some strategic cleaing around the flower patch and bat hang/swallow perch Another testpiece people spray about but do not relize the anchor is in the wrong spot is the "beast" route. A real route smith would have put the anchor above the end mantle. I Butt is a Trad Crag not a sportie Wall crag like exit 3420 countless slab routes some classic some not so classic and the unforgetable r and d leaner or weiner or even love donut routes... why walk to castle the creek is just as noisy if not more than the castle/highway scene in the tumwater. either way thanks for the sunny rock outing w/o crowds. btw- if anyone knows the idiot kayakers who almost drowned below the crag this afteroon- I am sorry.

or better yet how about H. Herr's Ride Of the Valkyries--- or the unclimbed testpiece at Katrina Krag

Bakery in Leavenworth: The Homefires Bakery has reopened at the Prey's Fruit Barn on Highway 2 a short drive east of Leavenworth Safeway towards Peshastin. Thanks to Kyle Flick's Wife!!! Waaaay better than Sultan bakery IMHO. FYI:The carrot cupcakes now have creamcheese frosting that uses butter. At 1.25 each, the bomb diggity crack-like addiction continues... Showers: I think you can also obtain showers at KOA down near end of road that you take to go to Marson's Lumber/Safeway. The cheapest best option is the river, upstream from the city treatment facility near the bridge on Highway 2 if you have biodegradable soap Taco stand: The old Chevron (now 76) mercantile sells somewhat cheap entrees from local restaurants and has Subway shop. Maybe no tacos though. Taco stands have never to my recollection been in Leavenworth but if you need a not-too expensive meal go to Heidleburger near Tumwater/Icicle Junction.

i am a geologist constantly researching rock. On Saturday, I climbed the Open Book with Dave and Kevin (of fiveten) and Sunday Mr Charles Cole (himself) and Laura Sanders (also of fiveten) joined us for some TR fury near the NW recess. Tahquitz is an AMAZING fricken place.. Highly recommend going when not sooo Hot. We had perfect weather.... Oh and Friday Jtree action.... pics will be posted maybe this week. 100+ in Redlands today!!

open book tahquitz for sure. whodunnit looked good too. red rocks frogland r and d icicle butt northwest corner news can't remember the name but the line jordan peters, steve h and I did on I 3 or somethin in the Wad range was f'n spectacular and moderate at 5.10 contrivometered... hopefully jordan or steve will chime in and post a few pics sometime or more specifics as the the southern cali sun and rock has dulled my memory. durance root on devils tower looks good.

need the beta! bueler... bueler... anyone.... Thanks in advance!

Because in order to get the Cocaine crack you have to get the cocaine connection. Telemarker- if you like the the arch then go climb the Ramp by the Yellow wall. Fun Neglected Pitch...

I climbed this route on Saturday April 12- as before, fun rambley line. Some tidbits which may help a first timer or not: 1) start below the initial small roof crack (near first bolt) on off the low-angle slab instead of the typical belay ledge off the trail adjacent to the roof crack. Makes for a few more moves prior to the crux slabby step over crack to bolts. 2) I typically avoid first two bolt and climb straight up and right towards third bolt. Does NOT detract much from climb other than avoiding the somewhat scary step over to first bolt. Gear is bomber to boot. 3)bolts are NOT always near easiest climbing on the slab. 4) able to stretch rope with a bit of simuclimb to reach 2nd belay spot above two bolt stance in the dish. HOWEVER the second pitch is Really run out but Easy. Don't combine if you are not comfortable leading runout 5.8. The climbing is not 5.8 but if your belayer is simuclimbing it may feel harder than it really is- at about 5.6. Yellow wall and the Ramp climbs above second pitch are stellar somewhat dusty lines that never really see traffic but should in my opinion. The end of either YW or R pitch deposits you up and right of RandD last pitch. One could traverse over to RandD or pick one of the few unnamed variations to the top. OR STEP up and climb Big Bertha which I am unsure on amount of repeats. More than Jim Yoder??? anyone know the answer?

I am planning a fossil hunting trip up on the back side of Higgens this spring, will look for other rocks as well. a pebble count of the stone lithologies in each seperate area would be better evidence. Fossils will only point to them being of the same age.

I most definitely agree... --if One thinks Pinnacles is hard and scary go try climbing some quartzite in Baraboo, WI or try some big limestone in Marble Canyon. Both areas have become 'easier' feeling after multiple days or pitches... Hey DruL did you take pictures on Butter Brickle. That crack looks very cool... any shady details? Hey Darryl Cramer- what gives with the slab routes near GCtower? I think I read about them somewhere else stating you as the creator of the routes.

I would have to agree with markwebster, zonk and sobo on the peshastin pinnacle props. I suppose my affection towards the pinnacles is due to historical significance, quality of thought-provoking climbing and overall ambiance. But, it also has to due with the close proximity to Leavenworth. On crappy canyon days similar to current weather patterns it was and is WAY cheaper/closer to go to than Frenchmans Coulee, which I also agree is unvaried and boring yet worth going to visit. Things that have always irked me about the Peshastin Pinnacles is the size of the parking lot, seasonal closure despite closed days being the best days to climb at Pinnacles and overall idioic managment practice for the park. Oh and the stupid gate at the road. IMHO, Climbs worth doing over and over: DinoTower- Potholes Direct direct etc., Washboard; Sickle Slab- Windward direct, Testicle Fortitude; GCTower- Vertigo, Lightning Crack and nearby Wface routes; Martian Slab/tower- Martian Diagnol and nearby routes, Graham Cracker; Austrian Slab- Fakin it, Cajun Queen,Slender Thread and of course the uber classic and very rare "Ice Climbs" which form on the Darryl Slab behind GCTower. HEY PETER PUGET how are the rock climbs on the slab near GCTower maybe vulture slab?? anyone have stories about climbing the martian tower? specifically the butter brickle, west face or graham cracker routes. Also anyone have experiences with any of these Dinosaur tower routes: StonedAge man, Caveman or Cro-Magnon??? All these routes have always looked intriguing to me and was wondering if they have many repeats.

BWHAHAHA now that is totally what you need RUDY. I will meet you up at the pass wheneever to go skiing.

I'll reiterate the fact that spring is late in the Icicle and Tumwater Canyons...reconsider plans to Leavenworth unless you don't mind getting your climbing plans changed. ***I am not saying its not climbable but instead, its currently not the same "shape" as it typically is during this time of year.*** OK. Now return to your regular broadcast of Spew, Spray and Rhetoric. Cheers!

Whoooaa. Flash gordon in the house.... Now, since time has passed from the date of this photo and you feel it necessary to dig up photos of my past, all i can conclude is you are definitely in need of a new job, life and etc. Wow, I thought I was possessed with Hate but I guess there is always someone who hates more than I.

so what are working on that requires so much work?

go eat sume mud, stupid dirt enginerd fuckbag... I am not an engineer. just like you...

says the lad with bitch tits... this statement confuses me. I think you are mixing me up with the baby orca.

yeah I guess I was vague and really was implying solo. the mothaship was my bad attempt at a new term for grouping index crags- just ignore it. thanks for the info.

whatever makes you feel big you twit.

oh yeah, solo? what are his exploits at the mothaship?