bwrts

why do climbers have such a hard time with bird closures? I say move on, climb another rock.. its only temporary. If mad, remember, the peregrine closures are for our own safety as well as the falcons.... -going climbing.

tilia- do you have a picture of said obscure route area? thanks Ben

As far as I understand from one of the few involved- the "project" route is mixed aid and free and is being climbed ground up. Highly doubt it will be a trade route for the masses.

Nice Pics, brings back great memories... FYI: peak #3 in MountainMatt's photo is the Great-Horned Owl. Climbed in 2004 Cappellini and Stanton (FRA) "The Pellet" 5.9+ two pitches- start left hand side of formation center. Pitch 1- 210' lots of loose blocks and a few trees to contend with. gear to 5-6" Pitch 2- approx 100' short killer hand crack (similar to nface of the mole) with many ledge foot holds, also a few fingerlocks and lieback moves. gear to 2.5" Easy to summit both of the ears. Walk around to west side gully. rap/downclimb back to base. cappellini notes: from the temple canyon trail, ascend a couple hundred feet up steep heather to base of tower..this climb is best as an afternoon tick after the hike in to temple canyon, for a presumably more significant objective the following day....the route is classic enchantments, 5.9+, and although north facing, it is far from choss...i will forever refer to the route as "The Pellet" in reference to the way that owl coughed up ben on our way down....

Seen here on this internet blog... used but more rubber life remains! womens size 7 yours for 20$ obo you pay shipping costs. cheers! pm for more info...

Hey all you boulder climbing aficionados! Tell all your buddies to pick up their cigarette butts and other trash when your out crimping the rocks. (Even when its not yours!!) Looks bad and leads to more-management. Thanks and cheers!

Um, Castle Rock, was never abandoned in the nineties, nor the early years of this century...maybe by markwebster and others, but not a LOT of other people. Routes were obviously avoided, but not forgotten. No keep the sport routes on other rocks. Not every inch of rock needs to be climbed. Honoring Castle Rock would be best by just tidying it up a bit and climbing the established lines...aren't there like 64+/- routes on the crag? Anyrate, kudos to Lancegranite for sweeping the dirt and hornets off from cleanlove. (makes a little more sense as a route name now ). No doubt the hornets will return in the fall, they always do--- something about afternoon fall-time sun for those little nuisances. Although the exeperience of leading cleanlove with full on dirt conditions (at the crux) is now a part of the past, I really do think this is a "better" asset. Cheers!

Now that is FUNNY!

I am still drinking my first cup of coffee today so bear with me.

I thought the quote was: "There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games." The key to the quote being the 3 are sports and the rest are "games"... Frankly, mountaineering and the the whole lot of similar activities are a "selfish waste of time." But then this girl I know says everything we (humans) do is a waste of time...

Pm for rock rings, neutrinos and BD #3s

Anyone topping out on R and D should not consider using the boulder as an anchor. There are two perfectly good horizontal cracks (below the boulder) to the left as you climb over the final overlap. The two cracks have options for many sizes of gear.

wow someone repeated the supercrack on midnight? pictures would be sweet...

Likely the airphotos are to be used by land managers to compare mining activities of the diatomite mine to permit boundaries or other land management uses to previous years. As said above, if there is to be a development, there would be a sign posted, etc.

100 Canadian dollars?

not the triangular buttress by toketie.... In this scenic shot(not my photo but off the interwebs),the right skyline of the left mountain: (more or less the chin of the sleeping lady). FWIW: my pals and I approached from below. not a bad hike, good game trails to follow in the brush. we climbed a lower wall, very mud-laden (much cleaner now) crack system which deposited you after two pitches (?rat) at the base of cotman/ross route. we then climbed two separate pictches on right side before joining pipe dreams stellar p3. we then deveated again to the left for a pitch or two to summit of chin. to get to the nose, I remember, a short hike towards east (SE?) before gaining the highest rock outcrop. good rock. variation was dubbed shrinkwrap cat; lower wall crack was dubbed pantera pete. I don't remember any of the climbing being harder than the stellar p3 of pipe dreams. (?rat)

Based on the photos in this post I would guess likely some snow

no permits are needed for day climbs. FYI: occasionally rangers get bored with the standard enchantment loop hike and drift over to the north sides.

What in the hell does being naked have to do with climbing true? As for the barefoot part- Mr Reardon may have been an advocate but just fyi, Bernd Arnold of Germany I am fairly certain pioneered the activity long ago. Here he is solo barefoot at 62yrs old: oh and in his home climbing area of Elbsandstein, protection consists of only knotted slings or ropes in cracks and chalk is not allowed.

it is my understanding that the "new loan bolt" opened (safely protected) a new direct start. Correct?? -there certainly are gear placements below the bolt but I do not recall any above the bolt until one is on the ledge. I do remember climbing the formerly dirty pitch via from the right, although the memory of this climb is hazy at best...was not nearly as stellar as the climb is now. Whatever the case, BCD did the area a favor by cleaning up this neglected good pitch...which is definitely more likely to be enjoyed by more people. Never understood why a little dirt turned people away from good climbing. Which leads me to a side note: Northern Dihedral on Snow Creek wall is one cool feature choked with dirt and moss... yet it still sees occasional ascents (worth it if you enjoy all types of rock climbing). As for cleaning this one up to say, Outerspace-like cleanliness, GOOD F'n LUCK! The dirt will continue to migrate down until you excavate the entire hillside with it... In other words, cleaning this route is not really an option. I say, good job and thanks for all your efforts BCD.

yeah, I miss the winds too! Thanks for the memories...still waiting for my copies of pics from the trip almost 10years ago (and I made him my best-man...) anyrate, couple Q's... Didn't gather from scanning photos but did you climb a pitch through a tunnel on the Steeple? if not, is that feature on the Steeple or am I confusing another formation with this one? Thanks

i think its funny how mentioning tape gloves as bad, gets people all riled up... As for not showing the spice of the bouldering entrance, I disagree. If you show a video titled thin fingers 11a, I would anticipate a movie depicting the full pitch led from the dirt to the top anchor. What you show here is a highlight of the good crack climbing... Full pitch vid would make for a much better production.

i agree (for once ) with rumR, what is up with the tape gloves? -that crack is about as sharp as a spoon.

I would guess the name "thin fingers" has to do with the first ~60-70' of climbing to the half pitch belay(1st anchor), then the next ~15' to the hand crack and finally the airy 10d section above the roof. The climbs rating is based on sending the rig from the base of the wall. Do not fool yourself into believing you climbed the route if you did not start from the dirt and continue through the 1st anchor to the anchor near the trees. consult old cummins' topo and observe the word thin on 1st half of climb: Index Lower town wall right although is seems the ratings on the upper half of the pitch are switched. FWIW- Tatoosh 1st pitch is cleaned up and stellar w/o all the dirt... all thanks to curtis and pat!!!

can not wait to see where the route fits in amongst the features and other established lines in the vicinity.