bwrts

i remember there being a log around the first bolt of gomd. Still there? Clipping bolts never really seems that easy, especially inmidst continued strenuous moves.

when tj was first bolted, were there cams this big? and for gmd, i heard the giant flake/crack was bolted due to absurdity of carrying a rack of large bongs, cams...hmmmm. good climbs none-the-less.

Kevbone- Oh, it would be longer... I'll bet you a two year supply of hangers there is no way you could handrill a 1/2" by 4" hole in solid Eastern Washington basalt in under, let's say 30 minutes. i will take this bet, too...kevbone I would like to see you drill these holes with hand drill. I agree with slap on the 3" max as good. And for good measure if you got, squirt some glue in the hole.

snowing here in ltown now. Guess the time has already come to bury all the uninspiring ice of the icicle.

kinda covered with snow and ice. better to go to hueco

Nice! Never seen one myself...but I have stumbled upon a few dens and remnant signs...like chewed on bones and kitty fur. Spotted afew bobcats and encountered many black bears. My buddy spied a few cat like creatures joggn across the ramp/ledge middle portion of Icicle buttress the other day. He said they ran with little worry about the mini roofs and overlaps despite the 250ish drop to the road.

Is that Kohler?

The best year I remember out in the scablands was around 1996 or so. This was due to the amount of snow on the ground and constant cold. It acually looked like the Icefields pkway when driving in areas such as the palisades or moses coulee...formations everywhere. Some were very impressive. Not sure on the complexities of groundwater contributions. As for farmers feeding the ice formations... this seems most unlikely due to lack of watering needs in the winter. But then groundwater does not move that fast in the basaltic underburden. So perhaps the watering during the summer does reflect itself during the winter when the water finally leaks it way out on cliffsides and drainages. The most improtant contribution is the snowpack, current COLD and consistant weather. Whatever the case, I am sure DHarry will have the more correct answer after he looks into it...

HUrryy up man...scrolling sucks! I hate scrolling sooo much tiMm@y!!!

this is funny fukin shiet, man...thanks for diggn that one up...classic cc.com behavior. really made this site grow up. wheres Erik? miss that mouthy beyotch.

Climb something were you might actually lob off and then you'll understand. you didn't answer the question, o-jedi-master i think more than a few of my unfortunate climb'n-companions can attest to me "lobbing off" onto their painful belays climbing is dangerous. shit happens and sometimes luck just aint on your side. So, the question about retiring ropes is a valid and good one. All answers are merely humble opinions, statistics are stats and Boston is a cool town (here for the holiday) ...seriously tho I agree if it looks worked replace it...yet if it still looks good but the stretch is compromised from multiple falls or draggin around god know where, then the next fall may rattle your dentures loose so, You probably ought to replace the thing, too. I like to have multiple choices in the closet based on what were gonna attempt that day/trip.

Since we're on the subject of Peshastin, how about the first pitch of Lightning Crack? I got thrashed by the bulge move for over 20 minutes the first time I tried it. I skulked away humbly, losing the onsight. naww, you just were not lucky... I have seen that onsighted more times... but it has definitely seen more than a few shutdowns. and injuries.... The overhang on orchard rock has (i am sure) stumped a few "à vue" leaders. I have also seen a few blown onsights on Fakin It (austrian slab)....and ankle breaks...

Well then... How would do you know when to retire if the rope does not show wear?? 10.2 forever? Inquiring mind would like to know.

yeah, i agree it is better to use your ropes then let them sit around in the closet. I think that the break down of nylon wouldn't be an issue in one years time...but then how long did the cord sit on the shelf prior to purchase? How ever long the rope sat and its age, the one fact that remains true and should tell you what to do with the rope....... use it or lose it.

Yeah, how did it go...good turn out of beer swillers? I was sorry to not go but I had to go to leav. for the night. Anyrate, I hope jeff and co play again soon...been wanting to check the music out for a while.

Nice pictures, Lance! Thanks for sharing... here is to the safe return of our friend.... Takes a different breed of "brave souls" to put yourself in that situation. Only the utmost respect and admiration I have for someone like him. Look fwd to tying in a rope with D soon.

Depends... Did you keep the rope in your closet or in the back window of your car? If the rope still looks like new, then the life expectancy of the cord should not be an issue for you. By keeping the rope in the nice dry cool place like a closet, it is being preserved just fine. Also, I suppose it depends on what "type of little use" your rope was subjected to...small falls and draggin it around in the dirt are going to wear it out. Does the cord still look like a 10.2 or is it pushing 10.8ish diameter... Also, examine the rope for any "weird spots." btw- Hows the weather in Spain? Quite blustery here in Bellingham, today. cheers.

It is a fun crag! I do not remember 35 routes a few years back, off, you must have been busy during that time. Nice work!

So that guy making scary faces at me during climbing trips, was not rat? ...oh sh!t.

Nice Rudy! gettin the boy climbing and cleaning gear...smart move there. Definitely looks like fun, climbing at Smith that is...have not been there in a coons age.

yeah no sh!t Lance ask those guys...Hell, one of them probably has a good buy for you too...

who the hell is eric? rats not eric...?

yeah that newest industry was hard following too.

Shipman and friends used to farm the ice in Wenatchee... Said it was more trouble than its worth.

This should be thumbtacked to the page top... This reminds me of the my first (only) visit to the ghost... I saw the most wicked Ice in the middle of the forest prior to the bighill... The entire forest was flooded with a lake of hockey rink-style ice... amazing sight...have a picture somewhere. as the rest of the ghost...incredibly fantastic place that I look fwd to visiting again one day.