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esugi

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About esugi

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  • Birthday 03/14/1974
  1. [TR] Cody - Classics 2/21/2010

    Great work by all. I miss Cody! Looks like good conditions overall, especially Cabin Fever. When I climbed it, the top of Cabin Fever collapsed AFTER I climbed it. Pitch 4 of MG looks stout! How did Moretorium look?
  2. Trip: Hyalite Canyon - Various Date: 1/24/2010 Trip Report: As my wife and I are expecting our third child in March, free time to climb ice is hard to come by these days. Got kitchen pass to go on a short trip so Lukic and I flew into Bozeman. Over the last two years, we’ve been to Cody almost exclusively and having never been to Hyalite, we were eager to check it out. With the Winter Dance book in hand, we were ready!! From the time we landed in Bozeman on Friday evening to Sunday evening, it snowed consistently. The roads were sketchy at times but we managed to get in and out without any problems. Having 4WD helped. First day, we got little late start so we headed up into Genesis area and first climbed Hang Over (WI3), then traversed over to G2 (WI3+), then rapped down into G1 and top roped the right side (WI 4+), then climbed G1 left side (WI3). Me leading Hangover Genesis 2 Lukic leading G2 Second day, got much earlier start and hiked back into Dribbles area. Took 1 hour on the trail to get to the area where we get off the trail. Another 30 minutes to wade through deep powder and we were at the base of Dribbles (WI4). Fun route….even though Lukic stole my crux pitch! He accidentally combined the 2nd and 3rd pitch as described in the guide book! The second pitch was so short, that he just kept going! It’s a rope stretcher but good lead nonetheless. Approaching Dribbles Climb looks PHAT! On the hike out, we saw couple of teams on Mummy Cooler II and The Scepter. They looked Phat too! It’ll have to wait till next time. Hyalite was fun. Good ice conditions right now and for the most part, there are places you can go that’s low avy danger and still get a good workout. I’m sure I’ll be heading back there next year but for this year…one last trip to Cody to finish off Moretorium and maybe Mean Green?? =)
  3. Hyalite/Cody Ice

    Find anyone for Cody beginning of the year? Lukic and I will be there 1/1 to 1/4.
  4. Ice Climbing

    I'll meet you in Cody =) In Feb, can't really take long time offs.... email me dude!!
  5. Climbed NF Saturday with my partner. There were maybe 7-8 parties climbing or lining up to climb NE Butt. We skirted around, got on the NF and had the route to our selves! First pitch little thin at the start. Second and Third pitches were a cruiser! Started from parking lot around 9:30am or so and back to the car at 4:30pm. Of course, now the new snow so all bets are off for a little while atleast! Gear Notes: 3 screws (13cm) Cams to 1.0" 1 fluke (used) 1 picket (used) Had pins but never used Had set of nuts but did not use single and double slings 1 60m rope
  6. Cody- where to stay?

    In the lone campsite by Deer Creek is my bet. All but one time I've been to Cody, I camped out.
  7. Cascade River Road...

    So I take it the washout is before the Boston Basin pullout?
  8. [TR] Mt.Stuart - Full North Ridge 7/19/2009

    Great job Matt. There's always next year...but I keep saying that about many climbs! We did the Ice cliff couple of weeks after I met you on Eldorado NW Couloir...quite the difference from your recent picture.
  9. [TR] Bear Creek Spire, CA - North Arete III 5.8

    Great pics!! My partner, Mike Dahlquest and I climbed this thing about a month ago. We did the NE Ridge but got off route up higher...and I think we ended up on the upper North Arete. The climbing there was much harder in our climbing boots! Thanks for the photos.
  10. Mt. Stuart - Sherpa Glacier

    Good point Noah. Glad to hear I am not the only person. I was starting to question my navigation skills.
  11. Sweeet Tyler. Way to go after it dude! Glad to see you guys are getting out. When do you leave for OAK?
  12. Rod, what a story. Remember we almost got hit by rock fall (6 years ago??) in the cleaver area? Courtney jumped to the left, I jumped right, and the helmet size rock went right between us. Lucky for us, you saw the rock coming down....or else we would have been toast. Glad you are ok. Hope we can get out for alpine rock soon.
  13. Mt. Stuart - Sherpa Glacier

    That approach to/from Mtn Crk TH to North side of stuart has got me all confused (and I am not talking about the trail to Stuart Lake). I've gone in there twice now (Ice Cliff and SGC), and both times, I ended up in the terrible boulder field high above, rather then ending up on the faint trail next to the creek. By the time I realized we were too high, I didn't want to lose elevation so we just stuck with following the terrible cairns through the boulde field! On the way out, we would drop down to the creek..and everything goes fine on the tail...until near the end, where the trail seems to disappear and you're left to bushwhack and look for the log crossings. This last time, we crossed the creek back over to find the trail and ended up in a swamp, where we got attacked by 100's of mosquitos. Am I the only person having hard time with this approach/hike-out? Any insight is appreciated.
  14. Chimbo, we met you guys at the TH. Glad to share beer with you guys. We were on Ice Cliff Glacier when that storm moved in on us. We were close to topping out on the couloir but decided to bail due to weather and not sure how long it was going to last. Not an easy route to bail as we ended up with multiple raps off nuts, deadman, v-thread... About 20 min. after we got out of the ice cliff glacier proper, either avalanche or serac fall swept the same slope we were on!! Yikes, certainly was an adventure.
  15. [TR] Rainier - Liberty Ridge 6/16/2009

    right on...any pics? Planning to go up this weekend. Thanks for the beta!
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