bwrts

Now this is amazing. I would like to see mr Hannold come to Index and put his skills to the test on the vertical granite of Washington.

thanks to the rat who emailed me. however, I would still like to hear about anyone's experience in the Santa Cantalina Mountains, Leviathan Dome. go get it!

the road is not accessible for motor vehicles unless you are driving a snow mobile or atv.

I would say, not likely. The Deproach will be wet and possibly full of snow patches. Furthermore, the drip in the chimney is probably seapping pretty regularly these days. Spring is late in the Leavenworth area. Recent snow events have further delayed many southfacing crags from becomming in good climbing shape. The crags at the entrance to both Tumwater and the Icicle are good to go FOR SURE.

Totally agree with mr AlpinFox on this one. ***From what I know of Fred, he does NOT prefer to be solicitated for much other than women and a belay.*** Also, I remember someone once dropped by the house to leave a grip of literature, maps and pictures to be signed by Fred. Via a conversation with someone at the Mountaineers he got our address. Fred was irrate about the entire ordeal and asked me to call the guy back. The genteleman ended up driving back late that same night to fetch all his books and other crap as it was sitting on the front porch. If he did not acquire his belongings by the next morning, I was instructed to recycle all the crap. I would say from my first-hand experience with Fred, show the old man some respect and let him have his privacy.

If you did, I would think you should be prepared to receive all the bolts via parcel post air dropped onto your head. Anyrate, here is a picture of the wall taken on April Fool's Day in my opinion, the rock appears wet and not the best for climbing. goto Southwest.com and buy ticket to somewhere South. I did. So Cali, here I come!

I wish the owner hadn't regraded the property so much... seriously. I think he changed the elevation an entire contour line on the 7.5minute quad in some places...sheeesh. I am still somewhat bitter about the bouldering access in the area. However, not as bitter at the company (with forest circus guidence) that bulldozed the landing pad (now parking lot) on the backside of Barney's Rubble. I still kick myself for not taking pictures of the once infamous cave rock boulder. I am sure it will clean up nicely again one day but for sure it will never be the same after the slashpile that was smashed and then subsequently torched, exploded the giant flakes/holds into oblivion. Such a sad sad day it was when I saw the travesty. Department of Agriculture my ass Access to certain crags via private roadside areas in the icicle never entirely seems to be jeopardy as long as we all: 1) smile 2) be pleasant in asking permission if one sees a suspected landowner 3) never "chill out" on the property's structures/land (ie decks, lawn, etc) 4) keep low impact mentality 6) pack out your trash 6) say THANK YOU and keep smiling... 7) most important: don't park in the driveway of the property.

Is Frenchmans coulee really so Wilderness that the whine of the Interstate can not drown out the couple of kidZ having fun burning Fossil Fuels below the cliffs. OMG, motorbikes at Vantage. Please, Gearheads have been using the area on and off for years. Longer than most of you have even climbed out there... Can't we just Share the sandbox. Btw, don't you think Government agencies have better things to do then go drive out there and enforce a law (burning more fossil fuels)? Just some thoughts.

Looking beautiful in the canyon yesterday afternoon....

what type of rock do you think that is craig? I am inspired! Congrats on the P. You should explore the Trib canyons of Wenatchee Valley.

i guess I will have to rely on the information I got from the desert wren. although any other beta, experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Nice. Looks like a great time. I still want to check out that area... In recent years, Frenchman's coulee seems to be getting more and more overrun with crowds. A major dissappointment but at least you know what to avoid on the weekends. Hopefully the other Eastern WA areas do not become guide book (instructional book) tractor beams. For those who care: HINT, HINT.

There are tens of restaurants but most have fairly full staff. The best thing would be to go to Leavenworth and ask around. Realize this: there are no free lunches in Leavenworth as the town and immediate areas have changed. If you want free long term camping you should move to mexico, although the water isn't as clean.

I still want to watch Beth climb citypark.

HAh, I really don't even need to bait the hook. I really do not care about secret ice or rock for that matter. It is all over the place. A bit of exploration will even lead you to the dragons drool. I am however concerned about all the sledneckers burning fossil fuels, which speeds up the depletion of our Oil/gas Reserves and consequently Raises our F'ing gas prices....(Supply and DEMAND- ECON 101)... okay back to oversight on drilling monitor wells in seattle.

why do you give away the secrets?

yeah I have already saved most of the book to my laptop while in AZ. The approach is a bit confusing when out on the trail. The closure according to a Tucson gym is not as harsh regarding big horn sheep. Area specific, I guess. Nothing at the Park mentioned closures either. Hell we did not even see any sheep. My partner saw a deer. Saw swallows and heard a falcon and heard some coyotes in the morning... Lots of cactus and many hours of swearing along in the wash which was in spring conditions. As stated in one of the instruction manuals, the climbing can be done in a day if familiar with the approach. We tried despite no route/approach knowledge except the books and a crappy map from the park, and as said failed due to light. Really it was the lack of desire to finish the climb in the dark via headlamp and then hike back to packs via rapel and scrambling and then do the descent to car which took I think 3.5 hrs anyways after rapelling from the traverse pitch. I was not asking for specific route beta. IS there another Leviathan Dome somewhere? ANYONE climb this dome? Anyone with experience in SANTA CANTALINA MTS? Thanks! Cheers...

anyone here climb this dome? is there another Leviathan dome somewhere other than in AZ? the Falcon guidebook for the Nface route Sucks. err, well at least 'cuz we had to turn around halfway up the dome, due to fading light on 2-27-08.

CBS- you state 5.7+ in thread title but then say in your post pretty stiff for 5.7. Perhaps, you will realize what a "+" sign means now. Either way a great F'n route. Climbed it for the 4th time this Jan with my gf. She absoulutely loved the climb. The descent she felt was more difficult. Kelsay observing the park's topo and a view of the dome from parking lot Right around the crux prior to 1st belay. gotta love the water grove That reminds me of the first time I climbed it. We intended on climbing it by full moon. Well even tho the full moon was shinnin on the HV campground it sure wasn't moonbeaming us 3 on route. Damn hill. Oh well, nothing like scanning the cliff for bolts by headlamp...."Found one. climbing again." We did climb it in two pitches.

I remember climbing outerspace once and the entire 5.9 trav pitch was like clipping bolts as it had so much fixed gear. In fact, I do believe my buddy JV did not place one piece of his own and ended up carrying the entire rack up to the Belay. Speaking of famous fixed gear. The bolts on Orbit are Classic! And does anyone know how long the bolts at Library Ledge lasted?? On one of my visits they were there (years ago) and later that summer they were gone.

no new topo that I know of...I have some information regarding some of the routes tho. I think JosephH has info regarding the route up on Prusik climbed by Metolius team or maybe it was that Dave fellow from Spokomtom I am remembering.... anyrate, I agree mixed climbing is way more Kosher then Drilling an entire bolt line to facilitate a new climb. Especially when that TCU or RP fits just fine. If said new route has rotten rock that takes gear and one feels like the gear is not safe for their new route then maybe one should realize they are wading into deep water they should not go into and leave the line for some other person to climb sans bolts. okay, carry on. and as another climber once said, the universe is mostly dark matter! so Drink fight & spew blood! imagine this is red not greenishpuke color.

Well I am sorry to stomp on your ice thread. I will not post useful information regarding the fact that the ice has more or less all fallen down and you would be better off not carrying ice paraphernalia in your car but whatever, if ice tools are like your rock shoes then I guess you take them everywhere and anywhere. I like ice climbing just fine. web cameras showing the death to winter in the east side valley of Ltown Btw, after just speaking with my friend who drives by Hubba etc every day going home and to work I will reiterate the previous post of mine..BWHAHAHA, I would just leave your tools at home and bring your rack and chalkbag instead as Thank you babyDogma WINTER is ON its WAY OUT! YeeeHAH! FYI: he said it all fell down yesterday. BOOM!

I know, I know. was not me or anyone I know who did said route to right of Madsen's chimney but I remember the guy at the bar telling Erik and I how rad it was and how he was bolting it on lead and I think 10ish grade oh and he said he wanted to beat up Erik or something like that. I am not sure if there is more than one line. Call Viktor Kramar and ask him. You both (i think) live in same town. He ususally is up to speed on most new activity. edit- timL is right, the hindquarters route can be lead with gear only. was done this way prior to bolt job. either way, the bolts are there like many short climbs with gear potential. you do not have to clip them. however, I agree that it sucks the bolts are there. kind of like the rap bolts left on the summit headwall of Prusik by some out of towners.

red rocks. Ltown south facing good but some snow in shady areas. your best bet would be Junction crags area.

Bwhahaha. I would just leave your tools at home and bring your rack and chalkbag instead as Castle looked great as of Sunday and so are crags at Tumwater/Icicle Jct. Thank bagyjesus, winter is on its way out!