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John Frieh

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Everything posted by John Frieh

  1. I'll buy your old Grivel Candela if you dont want it
  2. It's on a metal swage cable. You can kinda see it in this picture: http://media.community.gore-tex.com/_Maestri39s-compressor-is-still-bolted-to-Cerro-Torre39s-headwall-Its-the-only-stance-for-4-pitches/photo/7421304/98605.html Still there. Never chopped.
  3. "That climb was stolen from the future. Without all those bolts the history of that marvelous mountain would have been very different. I am convinced that in alpinism how you have climbed is more important than what you have climbed, and I have no doubt that the best are those that leave the least amount of stuff behind."
  4. Hey John: Friends tried it on Sat. Guess P1 is sporting a bit of a roof and bad ice. Sounded pretty scary. They ended up bailing. Thanks dude. Dammit.
  5. Czech and standard got climbed about a week ago but with all the recent snow I'd bet they are either buried or unsafe. Goat was missing a large chunk of the lower section so doubt that it's back in but who know...?
  6. "The strongest indicator that a civilization has reached the point of no return is the disappearance of public shame."
  7. What this country needs is a good plague.
  8. Anywhere in particular? Mist or Starvation Creek are usually the first to form. If you happen by those or Crowl Jewel a pic would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Pictures please. "In" is highly subjective I have found
  10. I'm fairly certain Kevin is in Texas visiting family. I believe Kurt Hicks climbed the NE face of the tooth today so I bet he will have an update by this weekend.
  11. I'm keen on Friday if anyone is interested especially if you can carpool from Portland
  12. What amount is required for all these effects to occur? 1 drink a day? 2? More? Exactly - the least the original author could do is post a titration curve that shows how much exercise is required to negate each unit of alcohol. KK and JayB: if you guys are interested shoot me an email or a PM.
  13. Alcohol suppresses fat metabolism. Whether calories from alcohol replace dietary calories or are added to normal caloric intake, alcohol suppresses fat metabolism by up to 30%. Alcohol occupies the liver so estrogen (produced in the body to balance testosterone production) cannot be processed so the two hormones "negate" each other. Alcohol depresses testosterone secretion. Exercise prior to alcohol intake can make the negative effects on testosterone secretion last longer by "direct inhibition at the testicular level." Alcohol increases secretion of cortisol, which is catabolic. This may be one factor in alcohol-induced testosterone depression. Increased cortisol and decreased testosterone lasts up to 24 hours after drinking alcohol. Alcohol can depress nighttime HGH secretion by up to 70% (due to sleep disruption) Alcohol interferes with post-exercise glycogen synthesis Alcohol increases calcium excretion, which may reduce bone density, and magnesium, a mineral essential to energy production Alcohol is an appetizer, and impairs judgment so bad food choices are often made in the presence of alcohol Alcohol irritates the GI tract and this may have a negative effect on nutrient absorption Alcohol has a diuretic effect, so it is dehydrating.
  14. I dont think anything is in at Strobach. Banks is your best bet
  15. Hey that's my goal! I'm just not sure how anyone with toddlers gets out much! Some dads just abandon their family every weekend to climb. If it’s important, you’ll find a way. If it isn’t, you’ll find an excuse
  16. 2011 highlights: Watchtower, Cody, Valdez, Huntington, Andromeda, Stikine, disciple, and most recently became a father of two. Looking forward to 2012
  17. Ive got a pair of old bibler eldorado poles. I dont know the length/diameter but I bet you could find the stats on the black diamond website
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