John Frieh

"If life insurance won't cover it, it's probably worth doing."

"For years now I have had the same experience: I am working, sitting in a chair, the electric lights playing across my table or desk. I feel the bones snapping in my body and think my entire life at the moment is safe, useless, and like many another. I sense that I can manage, if I mind my manners, to squander all my days and nights and die in bed confirming what I never believed. And that this act will win approval. From everyone, including me. I see myself dead, properly dead. Perhaps kind lies are being said about me. My bones are snapping."

"I just don't want to die without a few scars, I say. It's nothing anymore to have a beautiful stock body. You see those cars that are completely stock cherry, right out of a dealer's showroom in 1955, I always think, what a waste."

Chalten Chamonix Canmore Somewhere between Bozeman and Cody Yosemite North Shore

- Rudy & Rad and any of the other dads should pen a piece on how they introduced climbing to their kiddos and balanced having fun with encouragement/advancement in the sport - I would pay good money to see a series of articles from Mark Westman on Alaska: what is in his Denali kit? what is in his Ruth Gorge kit? what are some good first time routes for AK newbies? Talkeetna beta? etc etc - If Don Serl did a similar piece on the Waddington Range that would be rad. Waddington for first timers or something - As cc.com has a number of guidebook authors (Jim, Don, Alex, Jason, etc) an article from each one on either a climb they wished they had included in their book or perhaps an updated description (more pics/etc) of a climb in their guidebook. - An updated guide to strobach (perhaps as a downloadable pdf?) would be cool - A downloadable guide for some of the newer climbing areas or old climbing areas with new routes in Washington and Oregon - Sol should write an article on how he is training for rock... use of rings, hangboard, etc etc

Rad and ScaredSilly nailed it: get into the best school you can. One of my undergraduate degrees is in chemistry and I basically gave up everything minus daily exercise shortly after starting the third year of my undergrad and didnt return to climbing until after finishing my masters. I was truly fucking miserable but considering where I am today I dont regret it one bit. And for what it's worth I honestly can't emphasize how competitive it is out here... I work for a fortune 100 company now and I am in the minority as a white, male educated in the United States. You think you want it bad? Wait till you see how hard foreigners are willing to work to get the same job you're thinking about after graduation. Work your ass off... your life depends on it.

Well said. I was hoping you or Westman would chime in.

With the exception of my sleeping bag I have yet to take any down garment to Alaska. I've done five trips (not counting ice climbing trips in Valdez) to climb in different parts of Alaska since 2009 in either winter, spring, summer and fall. My choice of kit in Alaska is based on my experiences climbing in the lower 48 (OR, WA, ID, MT, WY, CA, CAN). Down garments potentially have a place in one's kit but that is for each person to figure out for themself hopefully before they tackle their bigger objective. What do you bring, John, and for what temps? I've only got two puffies myself - a ginormous-looking NF Nuptse and a light synthetic compressor. Not sure when I'd be in the market for a new coat, but should I keep getting out in Winter or headed up to Denali, I may. In order of warmth I own a patagonia puffball vest, arcteryx dually vest, montbell thermawrap (old style no hood), and an arcteryx dually jacket. I've taken some combination of them (but not all of them) on various routes I have climbed up there. Things that influence what I bring include: -what I'm wearing on my legs (bibs or pants? softshell or goretex?) and torso (softshell or hardshell?) -how much of the route will I simulclimb (keeps me warmer) or pitch out (colder) -what are the odds I will sit out (i.e. get benighted) and/or plan on doing a shiver bivy -how much sun does the route get? wind? -how cold do I expect to be? Twight covers this topic in great detail in Extreme Alpinism and I highly recommend rereading it. I'd be happy to discuss specifics with someone; shoot me an email.

With the exception of my sleeping bag I have yet to take any down garment to Alaska. I've done five trips (not counting ice climbing trips in Valdez) to climb in different parts of Alaska since 2009 in either winter, spring, summer or fall. My choice of kit in Alaska is based on my experiences climbing in the lower 48 (OR, WA, ID, MT, WY, CA, CAN). Down garments potentially have a place in one's kit but that is for each person to figure out for themself hopefully before they tackle their bigger objective.

After a few seasons of use I had the decking material in my lightening ascents tear in a few places from rubbing against the metal frame. MSR covered it under warranty but I have since switched to the evo ascents as the weight difference is minimal between the lightening and the evo ascent.

Send a PM to Kurt Hicks, wfinley and W. They've all climbed it more than once recently and will give you a solid answer.

Nailed it. Depends on the route, no? Even some hard and remote alpine routes get done often during good conditions. Obviously, your party comes first, but I just wanted to present a broader way of looking at things. In any case, why no comments on my main recommendation: using 5.5mm dyneema for v threads instead of cheap tat, which makes this whole discussion moot? Any thoughts on that idea? Call me a chest beater but expect me to continue the dialogue? :laf: As Gene pointed out: plenty of arguments for either side in this thread. Time to let everyone else make up their own mind

Nailed it.

Vince Anderson on commitment versus convenience: link Will Gadd thoughts on threadless v threads: link Will nails it best here: Will Gadd simple tricks for speed on multipitch routes: link

I'd reply but you keep editing your posts. Let me know when you're done changing shit and I can give you a solid reply

Sure if you are 100% confident your ropes wont freeze. Spend a couple seasons ice climbing and I suspect you'll find that situations where you can use a no trace v thread are few and far between... my experience has been most water ice routes grow in size in the evening and at night when the temps drop back below zero... usually the same time I am rapping the route. I can think of a few v threads I have set that I watched freeze in place before the second was ready to rap down to the next station... Now imagine if that was your rope. I love how Pat drops knowledge all over this thread like he actually ice climbs more than 5 days a year. Bail off something besides ham and eggs and I might start listening dude.

Sure maybe when you crag but it the alpine no way. 1/2 inch tubular webbing weighs less, takes up less space in my pack, and is just strong enough for one time use.

Two cents: after doing numerous (30? I lost count after 20 something) v threads in sub zero temps coming off Huntington last winter I just cant imagine taking a v threader that I knew would break at some point. In fact if my v threader had broken we didn't have enough rack to leave to get down. I did 17 v threads bailing off of GCC on Kitchner a few years ago. Same story there: if my v threader had broken coming off of GCC I would have been in a world of hurt. Personally I like the Candela for a number of reasons but can understand if others don't. I would say whatever v threader you decide on I would recommend you are highly confident that it will not break on you especially if you have your eye on longer routes.

Might consider posting/checking gravsports, ne ice, and mtn project.

Scott: "If people are trying to bring you down, it only means that you are above them."

:laf: Good stuff dudes. Anyone care to comment on the rock quality behind those hangers? I cant help but wonder why no one hasnt bolted lines up to the ice... yet.

Purchased a skylounge when they first came out. Sometime during the first season some how managed to bend the bolts in the corners...? Send it back to BD and they replace the entire thing (not just the bolts) which was rad on their part. Overall the ledge can be way faster or way slower than setting up the Cabana... it mostly depending on you. Some ample practice (free hanging, on a slab, in the dark, etc etc) should ensure you dont epic Footprint wise they are roughly the same dimensions as an I tent (in fact an I tent will fit on the ledge) so if an I tent is too small for you I would consider a larger ledge. Shoot me a PM if you have other questions

Which one? The skylounge (old style red one that folded out) or the cliff cabana?

I was logging some zone 2 on the stationary the other night and enjoyed watched this: It's not climbing but I thought it was good and well... it's free... What'd you think of Moonflower? Any good?