John Frieh

We are daily bombarded by solutions to real and imagined problems. I saw something today claiming that the future of training is in the past, and that primal eating and activity is the way forward. Constantly analyzing and accepting or rejecting these solutions is a time-killer without equal. And quite often, an adopter, realizing how much time and energy he or she invested in finding a personally acceptable solution starts to proselytize and defend it, and eventually offend everyone in ear- or screenshot. The louder they shout - and I've been a shouter - the more I reject them. And the more I ask, "what is good?" What gets people to pay better attention is good. If group workouts do so, great. If a new training fad makes you exercise in the first place, great. If zone/ paleo/ eat for your blood type/ whatever-the-fuck makes you more aware of your eating behavior and take steps to correct it, great. But that's all it is so why do we give product and promises and shortcuts - the so-called solutions - supernatural power? Why do we imagine an easy way out? Have we dug ourselves so miserably deep that only hope offers a lifeline? Doing the hard work we know is needed to reverse course is the more difficult act to imagine. So we stake our future on failed shortcut after dead end miracle. How long will it take to learn? How much time will be wasted before we buckle down and get on with unfucking what we have done to ourselves? First we have to quit believing the hype of our uniqueness. When we are told over and over we are elite and special we begin to believe it, and to search for particular, individual activities or supports to help improve us. But how special could one possibly be? How different? Is a bio-identical supplement needed? Or a signature diet and training and sleep plan? If buying into it makes you pay better attention and causes consistent, heightened awareness then yes: useful but not necessary. Haile Gebrselassie grew up on a crap diet with no supplements and set 27 world records. There are others like him. And if this level of performance is not dependent on special diets or supplements or shoes or a magic jockstrap then how could all that be necessary at the very mediocre levels of performance we can achieve? Pay attention. Understand your actual current condition. Define realistic objectives. Learn what it will take to achieve them. Execute and hold yourself to the standard you determined was required. Do not allow distraction. Pay attention. And when the snake oil salesmen come around don't take the bait. Deep inside you know that what is needed cannot be bought or sold.

:laf: Yeh, what's so funny, Burkett Boy? Sergey Litvinov. Google and learn. And how do you define "cardio"?

:laf:

If you are interested in hosting a show send me an email: john dot p dot frieh AT gmail

Still working out the logistics but yes we will do a Seattle show at some point.

Portland. March 7th. 7 pm. Mazama Mountaineering Center FREE!

Though I havent visitied the Waddington Range (yet) I've chartered a few chopper flights and most (all?) chopper services charge in 1/10 (tenths) of an hour. Every six minutes the total bill increases. The pilot most likely will record total flying time and use this to calculate your final bill. As far as finding the magic # that makes it the cheapest for all parties involved I would say see what the least # of flights is you can get away with... can you squeeze 2 people + gear into one flight? 3 people + gear? Depends on you. I will add for 2k you could do a couple central range AK trips.

"If life insurance won't cover it, it's probably worth doing."

"For years now I have had the same experience: I am working, sitting in a chair, the electric lights playing across my table or desk. I feel the bones snapping in my body and think my entire life at the moment is safe, useless, and like many another. I sense that I can manage, if I mind my manners, to squander all my days and nights and die in bed confirming what I never believed. And that this act will win approval. From everyone, including me. I see myself dead, properly dead. Perhaps kind lies are being said about me. My bones are snapping."

"I just don't want to die without a few scars, I say. It's nothing anymore to have a beautiful stock body. You see those cars that are completely stock cherry, right out of a dealer's showroom in 1955, I always think, what a waste."

Chalten Chamonix Canmore Somewhere between Bozeman and Cody Yosemite North Shore

- Rudy & Rad and any of the other dads should pen a piece on how they introduced climbing to their kiddos and balanced having fun with encouragement/advancement in the sport - I would pay good money to see a series of articles from Mark Westman on Alaska: what is in his Denali kit? what is in his Ruth Gorge kit? what are some good first time routes for AK newbies? Talkeetna beta? etc etc - If Don Serl did a similar piece on the Waddington Range that would be rad. Waddington for first timers or something - As cc.com has a number of guidebook authors (Jim, Don, Alex, Jason, etc) an article from each one on either a climb they wished they had included in their book or perhaps an updated description (more pics/etc) of a climb in their guidebook. - An updated guide to strobach (perhaps as a downloadable pdf?) would be cool - A downloadable guide for some of the newer climbing areas or old climbing areas with new routes in Washington and Oregon - Sol should write an article on how he is training for rock... use of rings, hangboard, etc etc

Rad and ScaredSilly nailed it: get into the best school you can. One of my undergraduate degrees is in chemistry and I basically gave up everything minus daily exercise shortly after starting the third year of my undergrad and didnt return to climbing until after finishing my masters. I was truly fucking miserable but considering where I am today I dont regret it one bit. And for what it's worth I honestly can't emphasize how competitive it is out here... I work for a fortune 100 company now and I am in the minority as a white, male educated in the United States. You think you want it bad? Wait till you see how hard foreigners are willing to work to get the same job you're thinking about after graduation. Work your ass off... your life depends on it.

Well said. I was hoping you or Westman would chime in.

With the exception of my sleeping bag I have yet to take any down garment to Alaska. I've done five trips (not counting ice climbing trips in Valdez) to climb in different parts of Alaska since 2009 in either winter, spring, summer and fall. My choice of kit in Alaska is based on my experiences climbing in the lower 48 (OR, WA, ID, MT, WY, CA, CAN). Down garments potentially have a place in one's kit but that is for each person to figure out for themself hopefully before they tackle their bigger objective. What do you bring, John, and for what temps? I've only got two puffies myself - a ginormous-looking NF Nuptse and a light synthetic compressor. Not sure when I'd be in the market for a new coat, but should I keep getting out in Winter or headed up to Denali, I may. In order of warmth I own a patagonia puffball vest, arcteryx dually vest, montbell thermawrap (old style no hood), and an arcteryx dually jacket. I've taken some combination of them (but not all of them) on various routes I have climbed up there. Things that influence what I bring include: -what I'm wearing on my legs (bibs or pants? softshell or goretex?) and torso (softshell or hardshell?) -how much of the route will I simulclimb (keeps me warmer) or pitch out (colder) -what are the odds I will sit out (i.e. get benighted) and/or plan on doing a shiver bivy -how much sun does the route get? wind? -how cold do I expect to be? Twight covers this topic in great detail in Extreme Alpinism and I highly recommend rereading it. I'd be happy to discuss specifics with someone; shoot me an email.

With the exception of my sleeping bag I have yet to take any down garment to Alaska. I've done five trips (not counting ice climbing trips in Valdez) to climb in different parts of Alaska since 2009 in either winter, spring, summer or fall. My choice of kit in Alaska is based on my experiences climbing in the lower 48 (OR, WA, ID, MT, WY, CA, CAN). Down garments potentially have a place in one's kit but that is for each person to figure out for themself hopefully before they tackle their bigger objective.

After a few seasons of use I had the decking material in my lightening ascents tear in a few places from rubbing against the metal frame. MSR covered it under warranty but I have since switched to the evo ascents as the weight difference is minimal between the lightening and the evo ascent.

Send a PM to Kurt Hicks, wfinley and W. They've all climbed it more than once recently and will give you a solid answer.

Nailed it. Depends on the route, no? Even some hard and remote alpine routes get done often during good conditions. Obviously, your party comes first, but I just wanted to present a broader way of looking at things. In any case, why no comments on my main recommendation: using 5.5mm dyneema for v threads instead of cheap tat, which makes this whole discussion moot? Any thoughts on that idea? Call me a chest beater but expect me to continue the dialogue? :laf: As Gene pointed out: plenty of arguments for either side in this thread. Time to let everyone else make up their own mind

Nailed it.

Vince Anderson on commitment versus convenience: link Will Gadd thoughts on threadless v threads: link Will nails it best here: Will Gadd simple tricks for speed on multipitch routes: link

I'd reply but you keep editing your posts. Let me know when you're done changing shit and I can give you a solid reply

Sure if you are 100% confident your ropes wont freeze. Spend a couple seasons ice climbing and I suspect you'll find that situations where you can use a no trace v thread are few and far between... my experience has been most water ice routes grow in size in the evening and at night when the temps drop back below zero... usually the same time I am rapping the route. I can think of a few v threads I have set that I watched freeze in place before the second was ready to rap down to the next station... Now imagine if that was your rope. I love how Pat drops knowledge all over this thread like he actually ice climbs more than 5 days a year. Bail off something besides ham and eggs and I might start listening dude.

Sure maybe when you crag but it the alpine no way. 1/2 inch tubular webbing weighs less, takes up less space in my pack, and is just strong enough for one time use.