John Frieh

Thanks dude. I dont know about a new sport... perhaps just a different way to approach climbing in Alaska for those of us that only have three weeks of vacation a year to work with. "If it’s important, you’ll find a way. If it isn’t, you’ll find an excuse" I hope to see you all at the Feathered Friends show Thursday. Beer for Vantage!

Stay tuned for the Fairbanks fast food alpinism spray. Nothing yet... Schooner and Chewtoy are slacking! Or still passed out on top of peak 3

If you've ever enjoyed listening to the Dirtbag Diaries podcasts... I suspect you will enjoy this event. :brew: :brew:

Protein consumption is only a small part of the bigger picture: are you sleeping in a 100% black room? Are you getting 8 hours of sleep? What recovery practices are you doing on a daily basis? Weekly? Monthly? What is your diet? How clean is it? etc etc etc

A few pics. If you want to see more pics come to the Feathered Friends show this Thursday. Check the events forum for details

The best part was knowing Mulkey will be enjoying the "fruits of my labor" for as long as Doug owns that bag :laf:

:laf: Well played Daniel. Thanks for the props dudes. Apologies for the lack of photos but we shot everything in RAW which means they need to be cleaned up first... they are way too dark right now. In the meantime if you want to see some great photos AND video... some tilted... some not... you should all come to the 3 Types of Fun event next week! It is a fundraiser for a toliet at Vantage... who wouldnt want to support that?

Trip: Mt Dickey (Ruth Gorge) - NE Face "No Such Thing as a Bargain Promise" (FA) Date: 4/1/2012 Summary: First Ascent of the Northeast face of Mount Dickey on April 1-2 2012. John Frieh and Doug Shepherd. “No Such Thing as a Bargain Promise” 5,000', VI WI5R M6 Details: On March 30th, Doug Shepherd (Los Alamos, NM) and I, John Frieh (Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Ruth Glacier below Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge. We spent March 31 skiing around the Gorge checking out possible routes and allowing the unsettled weather to move through. After some discussion we finally agreed to attempt the unclimbed northeast face of Mt Dickey. On April 1st we crossed the schrund at 7 am and were immediately faced with challenging terrain to negotiate: thin ice, vertical to overhanging snice and snow mushrooms made for slow progress and minimal gear placement options. After a full day of climbing we only had 3000 feet of climbing to show for our efforts. We chopped a bivy ledge and settled in for a chilly night. Day 2 started with us climbing up to our hoped exit off the face, only to find enormous snow mushrooms chocking the chimney system. Rather than bail we opted to traverse north around the NE ridge, hoping to find a different exit off the face. A 30 meter rappel landed us in a runnel system splitting the north face of the NE ridge. We followed this up to the seracs that overhang the true North face, nicknamed "Walmart". After a brief food, water and psych up break while still sheltered from Walmart, we blasted two quick pitches through the seracs onto the summit slopes. After some trudging we reached the summit around 8 pm; 37 hours after crossing the schrund. We descended the West ridge of Mt. Dickey and around 1 am on the 3rd we reached our camp back on the Ruth glacier. Later that morning Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi picked us up and brought us back to Talkeetna to make for a brief four days in the range. Sorry for the shortage of photos... I'll try to add some later. Approach Notes: You may find a cheaper air service but you will not find a better service. Fly TAT

+1

A week from today! Come drink beer and talk shit for a shitter at Vantage

I want to say Chad and Dylan did everything from Hood north in like 4 days or so.

+1 I will say I have yet to purchase an OZ that actually weighs 28 grams. I suspect most "lightweight" biners are this way

By chance are you a chopper or bush pilot? Never lived there but I know a few SE AK climbers if you need a partner

It should be noted Greg Smith was an 'Executive Director', not an 'Executive'. Most analysts make ED by their thirties... assuming they survive that long.

We soloed it so yes no pro

Trip: Strobach - Nosebleed Seats (FA) Date: 3/10/2012 Trip Report: Summary: First Ascent of Nosebleed Seats WI2 ~60 meters Daniel Harro and John Frieh March 10 2012 Details: Spotted a few lines I had never seen before on the approach. Daniel and I set our eyes on the best looking one and headed in that direction. Climbed the first and second pitches of First on the Left. From the top of the second pitch of First on the Left we traversed up and left (see below photo) to reach Nosebleed Seats Not as steep as we hoped but nonetheless crusier hero ice. In March. In Washington. In the sun. Can't complain about that. Location. Taken on the approach. Nosebleed Seats from below First on the Left from below Daniel on the first pitch of First on the Left First on the Left second pitch Nosebleed Seats Gear Notes: Nothing longer than 16 cm Approach Notes: GREAT conditions if you start early enough. Will likely want snowshoes on the way out as things soften up in the heat of the day. 2.5 for us in; 1.5 out.

Or you could just get a minivan

Freedom. Mom carries kid and I carry everything else.

Thanks all. It was very cool to see so many familiar faces in the crowd. I'm looking forward to the Seattle show which yes we dont have a date just yet. Stay tuned. Many thanks to the Mazamas for hosting!

http://coldcoldworldpacks.com/available.htm http://www.mountainlight.com/ http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore/home.htm?Ntt=calendar

Tonight. 7 pm. Free. I cant emphasize enough how hard Dave worked on the movie... it is so much more than random GoPro footage stitched together. I really think you guys will be impressed. A small sample. I would be stoked... and maybe a little surprised... if Portland took an interest in something besides Beacon Rock.

Ergo for 0 -> too big for them. Once they outgrow the ergo check out the littlelife brand... they carry well but dont weight a ton like some of the other branks. And you'll want the newborn insert for the first few months though a folded blanket is an okay substitute.

+1

I've done three seminars with Rob Shaul/Mountain Athlete since 2008 and I dont know if I agree with him on mixing sport specific training (hangboards, campus boards, etc) into regular training sessions (weights, cardio, etc). I think Rob's program has some solid improvements over say good old fashion CrossFit but that said I disagree with some of his program design.