John Frieh

Few (?) clarifying points before people start saying I endorse the paleo diet. First: sound nutrition is the basis of health and physical performance. Food is a drug. Its effects may be manipulated to achieve a specific goal. The body is a precision instrument: it knows exactly how much protein it needs at any given moment. The mind, influenced by knowledge and temptation and habit, is imprecise and ignorant of the body's exact needs. When it comes to macronutrient precision the best one can do is get close. Everyone thinks their diet is fine. Even when it's true improvements can be made. Positive and negative actions cause no immediate result in this context and without an immediate and measurable benefit it is difficult to change one's habits or overwrite a lifetime of programming. Changes caused by nutritional influence occur on a cellular level and can take months to manifest. A result is rarely tied to a particular cause. Kicking bad habits is not easy. To begin I suggest people eat the same way I insist that they train: for an objective. I eat this way because I want to lose fat I eat this way because I want to gain size and weight I eat this way because I want to lose muscle and be more efficient with O2 I eat this way because I'm injured, can't train, and don't want to balloon up like a pig Daily Diet (eating on a daily basis) is different from Performance Diet (eating before, during and after athletic activity). Eating for short-duration, high-intensity effort is different from eating to fuel and recover from long-duration, low-to-moderate intensity effort. Eat according to activity levels: eat differently on rest days and training days. With all that in mind the Whole9/Dallas and Melissa is a great DAILY diet. It is designed for long term health and well being. It is NOT a performance diet especially if you are an endurance athlete. I could go on and on but nobody wants to read science. I do follow very similar rules to Whole9 in the off season/post season as it is a very healthy way to eat however in pre and climbing season eating that way would kill my performance. I hope this isn't too confusing. I do endorse the book and have had the pleasure to cross paths with Dallas and Melissa a number of times. By all means shoot me an email if you have additional training/diet questions. Now somebody cue Pete to make some stupid comments about how diet is for nerds and losers.

Top 5 markets for NBA Finals Game 2 ratings on ABC: OKC, Miami, Tulsa, West Palm Beach, & yes CLEVELAND. Seattle was 39th. :laf:

So how'd it go down Scott? Did you just show up and ask for them? Or did you report them to the police?

Easily one of the best TRs ever. I doubt most will grasp how far these guys were sticking it out there especially on Logan. Wow. Great to see the spirit of Roman Dial is still alive and well in AK Reminds me of this one: CRUSHING

Jason is correct on the person but it wasn't Moonflower.

The new oz hood wires from BD are sweet. Wire gate and no way to snag them.

Hey dumbass: go back and reread the post. The Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen (not me) said he was out of shape... which turns out was correct. He worked with them for over a year and was able to shave over an hour off his previous best time on the Eiger. 3 hours 54 minutes in 2007 to 2 hours 47 minutes in 2008.

"As the starting date grew closer many people began arriving in support, including the medical crew and my nutritionist." Yuji Hirayama talking about his preparation for onsighting El Nino on El Cap in Alpinist 8. Page 60

In 2007, after several attempts, Ueli Steck finally broke the speed record on the original route up the Eiger north face, climbing solo and belaying himself only for three short sections. No one was really surprised. It is Steck’s backyard mountain (he lives only 30 minutes away), and he had been progressively inching closer to the record, soloing the face for the first time in 2004, in 10 hours, and cutting that time nearly in half by 2006. The Eiger speed record dates back to Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler’s famous 10-hour sprint in 1969, and such hotly contested records are usually broken by a few minutes, or even seconds. Steck, however, slashed 46 minutes off the previous record, set by the Italian Christoph Hainz in 2003, with a new time of 3 hours 54 minutes. Yet the most remarkable detail of this remarkable achievement came to light after the climb, when Steck visited the Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen to test his physical fitness. Their finding: Steck was out of shape! Steck had trained harder for the Eiger climb than he ever had in his life, and harder than most professional climbers ever do. He concluded that he—and elite alpine climbers in general—were mere amateurs when it comes to training. World-class cyclists, swimmers, and runners enhanced their training with everything that modern science had to offer. Climbing was stuck in the Stone Age. "Nerds"

I know a few athletes that use Casein under heavy training loads but not on a regular basis. If it's morning ache you are using it you might look at your post training session recovery. Are you using a foam roller and/or ice bath? Both are super cheap and I know for me are often the difference between the stairs and the elevator at work. I usually take a foam roller with me on climbing trips for base camp and will use glacial snow for a simulated ice bath. It's really difference between one and two rest days for me.

A well designed training program should include exercises at appropriate loads/reps to address and slowly alleviate issues/injury resulting from the chosen task... in your case climbing. Basically you shouldnt have to wear knee sleeves. If you really have knee issues devote some of your program to correcting it. If you dont then dont wear them.

Good commentary on climbing among other things: http://dbkk.dk/images/stories/Vince/vince%20anderson.mp3

Good point Pete. Working with people that have more experience and expertise in a particular discipline is a great way to make rapid progress on the learning curve.

Occasionally I will carry the #11 BD hex but generally any speed on route I may gain from carrying hexs instead of cams is lost on the time spent cleaning the hex. I almost always opt for cams. That said I would argue and I think most would agree the route you are looking at will dictate the rack you bring. I always approach it from the perspective of "what is the minimum I need to bring?" and then go from there.

:laf:

"We're too connected to fail."

Nice. Any pics of the NE face or Upper North Ridge?

Looking to climb this week (May 14-18) either in or around Portland. A few hours at the rock gym before you go to work or some cragging... whatever you're available for. Give me a shout

It should be pointed out that doing CrossFit or some other program designed for well rounded health and fitness is critical to ensure lifetime healthiness of the athlete. Ever wonder why detached bicep is rampant among the old guys on super topo? Because all they have done their entire life is pull pull pull and never anything in opposition. Same with endurance athletes. Trail running is a great way to get your cardio for alpine but if you arent squatting from time to time and doing other things to ensure the health of your posterior muscle chain you will have knee problems at some point. Everyone should break up their year into pre, post and in season and adjust their program accordingly. Doing the samething day in and out will set you up for injury. That would be a reason to do some CrossFit (or something similar) from time to time

Apparently I can only climb 5.8 (Hi Pete ) and therefore have no right to comment in this thread but here goes: - CrossFit's goal is to make you a "well rounded athlete". You are not world class at any one thing but instead okay at several things. As they like to say "outlift the runner, outrun the lifter" - CrossFit uses a variety of exercises that have existed long, long, before CrossFit came into existence. CrossFit claims they were the first to combine them into workouts, often named after girls (Fran, Diane, etc). This is highly debatable but not really important in this discussion. - Due to CrossFit’s surge in popularity most people will assume doing things like box jumps, Olympic lifting, pushups and really anything for time that you are doing CrossFit. This is not the case. - Many of the exercises CrossFit uses will make you a better climber. A quick example would be the front squat is the single best exercise for developing core strength. You want to climb steep sport routes? Front squat. - The two major drawback for doing CrossFit for climbing and really any sport is CrossFit is a one size fits all program. Following the main site workouts or even your local gym’s workouts will not give you the specificity you need to improve in climbing especially if you are fairly developed in your climbing skill set. Secondly it lacks true endurance work. True cardiovascular endurance training BEGINS at ninety minutes. Doing only CrossFit is a great way to lose your endurance base. - So is CrossFit a good program? Not really. It’s okay at best. If you are serious about improving your climbing the first step would be to sit down with a coach for an hour and talk about where you are and where you want to be.

Exactly. Hence the "product placement" shots at the start... that said I have no objection acknowledging the great companies that support the Copp Dash Inspire Award. Same here. I like my climbing partners but I like spending time with my kids and staying employed more... hence this approach. As the classic saying goes "this is what you want, this is what you get"... it comes down to doing the best you can with the cards you were dealt. I do what I can at home to offset my carbon on trips. Since last fall the 20 solar panels on my home have produced 1515 kilowatt hours of energy

Fair enough. It's apparent to me we arent going to see eye to eye on carbon and outjectives and what is and isnt proud... but hey... it's cc.com... I should haven known better. Glad you guys at least liked the video. Zac Hoyt whom I've met a few times flew in to snag the first winter ascent of the Devils Thumb a few years ago and fell into a crevesse on his hike out to the sea (he thought he'd save some money hiking out instead of getting picked up). As a result a large, helicopter assisted rescue ensued.

Soon. I owe you an email also! We didnt shoot nearly as much video on Dickey so I doubt we'll put a video together. Perhaps a slideshow at sometime... Sure does. The only thing bigger than my carbon footprint is my tick list :laf: In all seriousness I could understand at face value it might seem like that but everyone since 2007 including Colin Haley, Mikey Schafer, Fred Beckey, Jens Holsten, Max Hasson, etc etc has taken a plane from Seattle to Petersburg and then a helicopter from Petersburg to the glacier. Unless you know someone in Petersburg with a boat you must take the chopper.. or swim I guess But yeah: staying 3 days or 3 weeks has the same exact carbon footprint as the flight time is exactly the same. I would argue staying for a shorter period of time is actually a slightly smaller footprint as it requires less gear which means less fuel burned flying to the glacier and less impact on the glacier (human waste, etc etc).

I would highly recommend watching this full screen. What will you do this weekend? [video:vimeo]38327717