John Frieh

I still have the neutrino and nut it was clipped to; I found that on my first time up the pillar. It was Ade's who was previously a mod on here. I believe the windshirt was a seperate thread in which I made an ass of myself... not related to the girth pillar climbs.

My crampons from my first trip up the pillar in 2004 with Ron Kirby. Colin and Jens climbed the pillar the following weekend; Colin originally grabbed the crampons but shortly into the pillar pitches realized why I had left them in the first place and promptly hung them on the nut where they still remain it appears.

Couldn't agree more. My first time up the pillar I did the drop over; the second time up the ice cliff. Such a great route. Nice work team

Crushing. Route and write up. Well done duders

BUMP. I'm in Portland and looking for a week night PRG partner. Would love to climb tonight

You should be climbing it today! It's splitter!

+1 And it doesnt freeze shut as easily

I used a Speed 55 this past spring in AK and was pleasantly surprised. It's a little heavy stock but strips down nicely for alpine. A great choice considering the price IMO

"This is what you want, but this is what you get" Does anyone really, truly believe they are 100% in control? Don't dilute yourself.

Friday morning what time? 7? 6? Thanks

John!!! I'm calling you from 17k to see if my tent is going to be blown off the mountain :laf: So stoked for you all dudes! Crazy to think you made your first AK trip in 2009. Onward!

Given the wet, cold spring the NW had this year I suspect this would be an excellent year for Curtis Ridge... or at least for the next few weeks before the rock bands melt out too much. Assuming the long range WX forecast holds I'd consider getting on it as soon as next weekend.

[video:vimeo]12844053

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/alaska.html

Few (?) clarifying points before people start saying I endorse the paleo diet. First: sound nutrition is the basis of health and physical performance. Food is a drug. Its effects may be manipulated to achieve a specific goal. The body is a precision instrument: it knows exactly how much protein it needs at any given moment. The mind, influenced by knowledge and temptation and habit, is imprecise and ignorant of the body's exact needs. When it comes to macronutrient precision the best one can do is get close. Everyone thinks their diet is fine. Even when it's true improvements can be made. Positive and negative actions cause no immediate result in this context and without an immediate and measurable benefit it is difficult to change one's habits or overwrite a lifetime of programming. Changes caused by nutritional influence occur on a cellular level and can take months to manifest. A result is rarely tied to a particular cause. Kicking bad habits is not easy. To begin I suggest people eat the same way I insist that they train: for an objective. I eat this way because I want to lose fat I eat this way because I want to gain size and weight I eat this way because I want to lose muscle and be more efficient with O2 I eat this way because I'm injured, can't train, and don't want to balloon up like a pig Daily Diet (eating on a daily basis) is different from Performance Diet (eating before, during and after athletic activity). Eating for short-duration, high-intensity effort is different from eating to fuel and recover from long-duration, low-to-moderate intensity effort. Eat according to activity levels: eat differently on rest days and training days. With all that in mind the Whole9/Dallas and Melissa is a great DAILY diet. It is designed for long term health and well being. It is NOT a performance diet especially if you are an endurance athlete. I could go on and on but nobody wants to read science. I do follow very similar rules to Whole9 in the off season/post season as it is a very healthy way to eat however in pre and climbing season eating that way would kill my performance. I hope this isn't too confusing. I do endorse the book and have had the pleasure to cross paths with Dallas and Melissa a number of times. By all means shoot me an email if you have additional training/diet questions. Now somebody cue Pete to make some stupid comments about how diet is for nerds and losers.

Top 5 markets for NBA Finals Game 2 ratings on ABC: OKC, Miami, Tulsa, West Palm Beach, & yes CLEVELAND. Seattle was 39th. :laf:

So how'd it go down Scott? Did you just show up and ask for them? Or did you report them to the police?

Easily one of the best TRs ever. I doubt most will grasp how far these guys were sticking it out there especially on Logan. Wow. Great to see the spirit of Roman Dial is still alive and well in AK Reminds me of this one: CRUSHING

Jason is correct on the person but it wasn't Moonflower.

The new oz hood wires from BD are sweet. Wire gate and no way to snag them.

Hey dumbass: go back and reread the post. The Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen (not me) said he was out of shape... which turns out was correct. He worked with them for over a year and was able to shave over an hour off his previous best time on the Eiger. 3 hours 54 minutes in 2007 to 2 hours 47 minutes in 2008.

"As the starting date grew closer many people began arriving in support, including the medical crew and my nutritionist." Yuji Hirayama talking about his preparation for onsighting El Nino on El Cap in Alpinist 8. Page 60

In 2007, after several attempts, Ueli Steck finally broke the speed record on the original route up the Eiger north face, climbing solo and belaying himself only for three short sections. No one was really surprised. It is Steck’s backyard mountain (he lives only 30 minutes away), and he had been progressively inching closer to the record, soloing the face for the first time in 2004, in 10 hours, and cutting that time nearly in half by 2006. The Eiger speed record dates back to Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler’s famous 10-hour sprint in 1969, and such hotly contested records are usually broken by a few minutes, or even seconds. Steck, however, slashed 46 minutes off the previous record, set by the Italian Christoph Hainz in 2003, with a new time of 3 hours 54 minutes. Yet the most remarkable detail of this remarkable achievement came to light after the climb, when Steck visited the Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen to test his physical fitness. Their finding: Steck was out of shape! Steck had trained harder for the Eiger climb than he ever had in his life, and harder than most professional climbers ever do. He concluded that he—and elite alpine climbers in general—were mere amateurs when it comes to training. World-class cyclists, swimmers, and runners enhanced their training with everything that modern science had to offer. Climbing was stuck in the Stone Age. "Nerds"

I know a few athletes that use Casein under heavy training loads but not on a regular basis. If it's morning ache you are using it you might look at your post training session recovery. Are you using a foam roller and/or ice bath? Both are super cheap and I know for me are often the difference between the stairs and the elevator at work. I usually take a foam roller with me on climbing trips for base camp and will use glacial snow for a simulated ice bath. It's really difference between one and two rest days for me.