John Frieh

Bump. There is an information session tomorrow, Tuesday the 2nd, where you can ask any and all questions you might have regarding the course.

must be all those fucking food-trucks :laf: :tup:

+1 It's all the asshats in Vancouver coming across the river for our cheap liquor and full service gas stations Case in point: Kevbone

More strip clubs. More bars. Probably why we have more rape and murder than Seattle

Number five!

"I am very methodical, and my climbing successes are the result of a cautious, well-planned approach, combined with a huge volume of previous experience in the mountains." Colin Haley in the Black Diamond Journal Catch his presentation this year at the Portland Ice Festival :brew:

10th Mountain?

http://pataclimb.com/

With respect to the aging/too hardcore question the first rule for any trainer/coach is do no harm. More specifically if you make your athlete too sore for his sport specific workout the following day, you have failed. Working with NFL guys this summer it was critical to schedule certain workouts on certain day to ensure they were fresh for their sprinting workouts. You'll see the same thing in any sport where technical skill is critical to success... boxing, MMA, cycling, etc etc Athletes of all sports (not just climbing) get all focused on the work but neglect or are ignorant of how important the recovery and nutrition pieces are to the overall program. Any coach worth his salt should be writing a program that comprehends workouts as well as recovery and nutrition needs. Assuming the first rule is followed then anyone regardless of age should be able to build and follow a program. Do older guys need slightly longer to recovery or less volume? Very likely. But that doesn't mean you should sacrifice the intensity of a workout.

And that could be a program for him Gene... it will depend on where he is at now, where he wants to go and how much time per week he has. The problem (or challenge?) is as much as we all want one there is no one size fits all program. We all have different training histories, training goals, strengths, weaknesses, mindsets and so on... which is why we all need a different program. Look at Steve and Vince when they trained for the Rupal... same goal, same time to event, arguably similar skill sets... yet they both followed different programs.

Gym Jones specialty is building programs whether it be for NFL lineman or Petzl athletes like James Litz. None of the athletes they work with train exclusively there; Gym Jones recognizes and teaches the strength and conditioning coach (i.e. them) is secondary to the sport coach which it sounds like we are all saying here...? If you're really truly serious about your chosen sport you will have a sports coach to do drills, exercises, etc etc with as well as a strength and conditioning coach who will help build fitness in support of those goals.

If you are near Boulder I highly recommend Connie at the Alpine Training Center. Great coach and great facility.

Extreme Alpinism is one of the most influential books I have ever owned; though some of the material is slightly dated it is still one of the best books out there. Twight has since gone on and founded a gym in Salt Lake City: Gym Jones. Gym Jones is literally Extreme Alpinism 2.0. I hold training certifications with a number of organizations including CrossFit, Mountain Athlete (mentioned above), Steve Maxwell, Dan John, Body Tribe, among others and though each one has some value none of them come close to Gym Jones. I highly recommend the online membership; the amount of content and knowledge contained on the member site is overwhelming to say the least. Lastly, since you are in Portland I will mention starting next month I will be teaching a course for the Mazamas that will cover training for climbing: program theory, design and application, exercises, nutrition and recovery. If you want more details send me a PM or contact the Mazamas.

I might put him in charge of the kegs. We shall see

After a one year hiatus and with the generous support of the Mazamas and the Portland Rock Gym we are back for a sixth year: the Portland Ice Festival. We're stepping our game up with TWO nights of fun this year: Friday Oct 12th at the Mazamas come see Colin Haley as he talks about the amazing 2011/12 season in Patagonia. Saturday Oct 13th at the Portland Rock Gym: compete or watch a mixed climbing comp, demo tools, enjoy adult beverages and of course take your chance at winning some sweet schwag from a number of fine sponsors. Hope to see you all there

I propose we discuss Bears in Heat second pitch moves off the anchor instead of YW. Thanks

Check with Braden (posts as downey on here)

Yes we are doing one this year. Colin Haley is doing the slideshow. Details to follow

Original gangsta.

The Fumes Most Precious Blood Recon Kendrick Lamar

The new version of the Sum'Tec is sweet. That said you can likely score a good deal on the old version of the Sum'Tec as vendors clear out the old style at discount

You'll drink it with no concern but you're worried about spilling it on your gear? :laf:

I sold mine to Donnie awhile ago... check with him and see if he is still using it

It's the very first TR I ever wrote on cc.com though it doesn't mention me leaving the crampons. You can find it in the TR engine