John Frieh

Doug and I headed for the runnel system on the Escalator on Mt Johnson. TR LINK

daaaaaaaawwwwwwww! now only the 'smash n' grab' bitches can do it! Considering it took you FOUR days to bumble up Space Shot I guess I won't be seeing you up there

Looking for a recent photo of the North Face of Hood. Thanks in advance

Thanks. Greatly appreciated

Trip: Mt Wake (Ruth Gorge) - S Face via Johnson/Wake Col "The Cook Inlet" (FA) Date: 10/22/2012 Summary: First Ascent of the South face of Mount Wake via the Johnson/Wake col on October 22 2012. John Frieh and Jess Roskelley. “The Cook Inlet” 4,500', V AI4 M4 Details: On October 21 around 4 pm, Jess Roskelley (Spokane, WA) and I, John Frieh (Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Ruth Glacier below Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge. We were able to scope out two possible lines before it got dark. After some discussion we decided to attempt an unclimbed line on the south face of Mt Wake. On October 22 we crossed the schrund at 9 am (late start due to what little sun Alaska gets this time of year) and made slow but steady progress up to the Johnson/Wake col. We bypassed the serac (crux) on the climbers right with a few pitches of AI4 and 100% premium Ruth Gorge "cracker jack consistency" granite mixed climbing. From the col we climbed through some mixed bands (M4) to reach the summit of Wake shortly before sunset. Nine hours of daylight is as short as it sounds. We retraced our steps back to the col where we took a coffee/perpeteum brew stop before continuing the descent into the night. Minus an almost unroped crevasse fall (me) it was largely uneventful. We reached our skis around midnight (15 hours skis to skis) where we opted for a nap before continuing the ski back to basecamp in the morning. Later in the morning on the 23rd Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi picked us up and brought us back to Talkeetna to make for a brief 40 or so hours in the range. Many thanks to John Calder for the ANC logistics, Paul Roderick and the TAT crew, and Jess Roskelley for taking a chance climbing with a complete stranger. Jess is a solid climber who I look forward to climbing with again. Also many thanks to my Gym Jones family for the continued guidance and encouragement. Much respect. Home in the Range Bedtime chores October 22 Jess Above the col Jess's first Alaska First Ascent Gear Notes: Two FAs in Alaska in October both on Petzl Lynx; they are quickly becoming my favorite crampon. Lots of Wild Squirrel Approach Notes: Smash and Grab style climbing in the Alaska Range would not be possible without the expertise and service that Paul Roderick and Talkeetna Air Taxi provides. The best of the best. Fly TAT! The MAN: Paul Roderick

Dave Burdick (AlpineDave) and myself will be giving a presentation for the Alpine Club of Canada Tuesday Oct 23rd in Vancouver BC. Full Details We will be showing photos from Burkett Needle, Mt Burkett, Mt Dickey and likely some other stuff. Would be stoked to have some cc.comers in the crowd... perhaps a pub club before or after?

Trip: Mt Burkett - NW Face "Can't Knock the Hustle" (FA) Date: 10/6/2012 Summary: First Ascent of the Northwest Face of Mt Burkett on October 6th 2012. John Frieh and Doug Shepherd. “Can’t Knock the Hustle” IV 5.8 M4 AI4 Details: During last year’s ascent of the East Arete of Burkett Needle I was able to scope out at least the start to a possible line on the Northwest face of Mt Burkett. That, coupled with Mr John Scurlock’s excellent photos, gave us just enough beta to warrant an attempt once a weather window was identified which, unfortunately, is often the crux of climbing in the Stikine. The Stikine attempted to “wait me out” all summer with a consistently crappy forecast before finally offering a weather window, thinking I had given up for the season. Nice try weather gods. On October 5th Doug and I flew from SEA to PSG where stubborn cloud cover resistant to burning off resulted in us getting flown into the Burkett glacier late in the day. We used the few remaining hours of daylight to approach Mt Burkett and used the same camp Dave Burdick and I used in 2009. The following morning (Oct 6th) we rolled out of camp around 5:30 am (???) and after some crevasse crossing hi jinx (see below) we reached the Burkett Needle/Mt Burkett col. We promptly dropped over, descended until we found a logical point to gain the face. Simul climbing blocks followed as we slowly unlocked the face. We found classic north face climbing: granite mixed climbing, ice and steep snow which reminded me of the NW face of Mt Stuart... only longer. We topped out around 4 pm (???) and after a few pics we rappelled and downclimbed the Golden Gully route. More glacier hi jinx, again in the dark, before finally hitting camp around 9 pm made for a ~16 hour camp to camp time. The following morning we did the short hike down to pickup where Wally promptly grabbed us just before 11 and brought us back to Petersburg for a ~43 hour round trip. The Northwest Face “Can’t Knock the Hustle” (IV 5.8 M4 AI4) represents the 6th ascent of Mt Burkett. Many thanks to Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and to our pilot Wally from Temsco Air. Lastly, a huge shout out to Doug for sucking it up and getting it done on this one considering he is 6 weeks post toe surgery. John Frieh Doug Shepherd Pictures: Yes we have more. I will be showing them plus some from Mt Dickey on Oct 22 in Vancouver, BC (CANADA!) and sometime later this year at Mountain Gear in Spokane. If you're in the area I would be stoked if you can make it Glacier travel hi jinx Approaching the col Low on the face Higher on the face Yes it was really windy Gear Notes: 10 screws, #00 c3 -> #3 c4, rap material, picket Wild Squirrel Vanilla Espresso Approach Notes: Wally is the man

So. Awesome: link

Pack the house!

TONIGHT! Comp! Raffle with some primo prizes from NW Alpine, Black Diamond, Petzl, Mountain Shop and others! FREE BEER Starts at 5 pm!

The weather sucks! Come to the ice festival! Colin Haley TONIGHT! Lots of PRIME equipment from Black Diamond, Petzl, NW Alpine, Ice Holdz and others up for grabs You can still get tickets online!

For those of you in already entered in the comp: you currently have a very good chance of winning new ice tools! For those you who have not... enter soon before it sells out! See you all tomorrow at the Mazamas!

Interesting conversation. 2 cents: though living in a mecca for alpine climbing Will Gadd continues to focus on the "cragging". I know other posters on this board can point to other climbers that are as Blake proposes "disconnected" Really... it's like any other sport. People gravitate to what challenges and inspires them. Go catch the latest Reel Rock film... the climbing (and even some "non" climbing) was varied but the passion, commitment and excitement of each climber was equal. Different strokes...

Bump. There is an information session tomorrow, Tuesday the 2nd, where you can ask any and all questions you might have regarding the course.

must be all those fucking food-trucks :laf: :tup:

+1 It's all the asshats in Vancouver coming across the river for our cheap liquor and full service gas stations Case in point: Kevbone

More strip clubs. More bars. Probably why we have more rape and murder than Seattle

Number five!

"I am very methodical, and my climbing successes are the result of a cautious, well-planned approach, combined with a huge volume of previous experience in the mountains." Colin Haley in the Black Diamond Journal Catch his presentation this year at the Portland Ice Festival :brew:

10th Mountain?

http://pataclimb.com/

With respect to the aging/too hardcore question the first rule for any trainer/coach is do no harm. More specifically if you make your athlete too sore for his sport specific workout the following day, you have failed. Working with NFL guys this summer it was critical to schedule certain workouts on certain day to ensure they were fresh for their sprinting workouts. You'll see the same thing in any sport where technical skill is critical to success... boxing, MMA, cycling, etc etc Athletes of all sports (not just climbing) get all focused on the work but neglect or are ignorant of how important the recovery and nutrition pieces are to the overall program. Any coach worth his salt should be writing a program that comprehends workouts as well as recovery and nutrition needs. Assuming the first rule is followed then anyone regardless of age should be able to build and follow a program. Do older guys need slightly longer to recovery or less volume? Very likely. But that doesn't mean you should sacrifice the intensity of a workout.

And that could be a program for him Gene... it will depend on where he is at now, where he wants to go and how much time per week he has. The problem (or challenge?) is as much as we all want one there is no one size fits all program. We all have different training histories, training goals, strengths, weaknesses, mindsets and so on... which is why we all need a different program. Look at Steve and Vince when they trained for the Rupal... same goal, same time to event, arguably similar skill sets... yet they both followed different programs.

Gym Jones specialty is building programs whether it be for NFL lineman or Petzl athletes like James Litz. None of the athletes they work with train exclusively there; Gym Jones recognizes and teaches the strength and conditioning coach (i.e. them) is secondary to the sport coach which it sounds like we are all saying here...? If you're really truly serious about your chosen sport you will have a sports coach to do drills, exercises, etc etc with as well as a strength and conditioning coach who will help build fitness in support of those goals.